I Understand Your Frustration!

The most common question (and one I've addressed before here in my blog) that I get asked is, "How long will it take to fix this?" The second most common question? "Why does my dog DO this?!  My friend's dog (neighbor's dog, sister's dog, co-worker's dog, the dog I had before...) is the same breed and she doesn't do this!" Believe me, I understand your frustration.  If you always acquire the same breed of dog, or everyone in your family or friend circle does, then comparisons are inevitable. But here's the thing.  No two dogs are alike, even if they were born in the same litter, raised in the same family, etc.  Each dog, just like every person, is an individual.  Each individual human or dog is continually altered by external factors.  We are all products of our genetics AND our experiences.  While something environmental like a thunder storm might have profound effects on one dog or person based on their personal experiences with loud noises, it can also be something that has little effect on other people or dogs in the same family.  Your individual personality affects how you cope with obstacles thrown in your path and experiences that you face.  Personality plays a role in the behavior of our pets as well.

We now know that sociability in dogs can be ranked on a scale from 100% extrovert to 100% introvert, and all the levels in between. For example,  not all puppies are social butterflies, making activities like puppy classes, puppy socials, and puppy play dates incredibly stressful for those puppies to navigate. While puppy classes are good for the humans as well, forcing those puppies to go when they clearly are uncomfortable and in distress can result in long term, negative, behavioral consequences.  Better for the humans to attend the classes sans puppy and apply what they learn in class, at home, on their own. Introverted puppies and dogs often do better working at activities one-on-one with their owners.  So, agility and nosework are two sports that I've seen more than one introverted dog excel in; they don't have to interact with other dogs directly AND they get to focus on an activity that brings them joy with their owner. 

It is certainly true that breeders who incorporate Puppy Culture type programs into their litter raising routine often produce puppies who are better at "rolling with the punches," so to speak. It isn't that puppies who complete these programs in their breeders' homes are smarter, more competent, or more capable than their peers raised in different situations, it's simply that these puppies have experienced more sounds, surfaces, lights, textures, etc., so that they, regardless of personality type, have the ability to cope with novel situations thrown their way.  Puppy Culture puppies seem to learn some resilience from having these early experiences with the support of their dam and littermates. They may still be introverts (or extroverts!) when all is said and done, but they will know how to bounce back from experiences that can behaviorally cripple other puppies. It just makes them more pliable.

So, even if you always have had Golden Retrievers, and you always get females, this doesn't mean that female Golden you just purchased from a breeder will be like all the others. Why? Because even if you always use the same breeder, the genetics of the parent dogs ARE different; they, too, were affected by their experiences.  It is even the case that puppies are affected in-utero by stressors felt by their mothers. So, while generally speaking, always getting female Golden Retrievers may make things somewhat more predictable for you as a dog owner, you, too, will need to be flexible.  Your new puppy may be bolder or more fearful, sensitive or hard-headed, a fast learner or a pup needing lots of repetition.  Why?  Because she's an individual.  Parents are always told not to compare their children. Well, you know what? Don't compare your dogs either!  

Let's circle back to that second most commonly asked question of why does the dog behave this way. It behaves that way because of her genetics and her experiences before you even met her.  Now that she lives with you, her behavior is affected by the choices you make for her. Be flexible. Just because a martingale collar was right for your last dog doesn't mean it will be the right choice for this one.  And just because he's a Labrador that doesn't mean he'll love water or want to fetch a ball all day long.  I can attest to this fact having had a Labrador who hated water and never fetched a toy her entire life.  You know what she was good at though?  Keeping up with young children and protecting them. She was a champion at these tasks and for that, I will always be grateful.  She begrudgingly followed them on the slip-n-slide and would run with them when they kicked a ball, but those were not activities she chose for herself, and we never forced her.  Love the dog you're with, not the one you thought you were getting.

We're all trying to make the best choices that we can for our pets.  Sometimes those choices are no brainers, while other times, we can stew and fret over them.  Henley is my third collie puppy; we've had numerous collies over the years, but I've only raised three from puppyhood.  He is similar to Cooper (my first collie puppy) and to Ozzie (my goofy Lassie descendant dog) in that he's a fast learner. All three were puppies you could show something to one time, and they got it. They'd all test you to see if your boundaries were firm and non-negotiable, but they got it.  How is Henley different?  Well, he's the most confident collie puppy we've ever had.  Noises don't bother him (some noises still cause Westley anxiety), he accepted a collar the first time it was put on him (Ozzie fought every collar we tried on him and ultimately had to be desensitized to wearing one at all), and he walks on a leash with the big dogs like he was made for it, no apprehension, no hesitation, no concerns.  Because he is a bold and confident puppy, I feel the need to protect him even more; it's my job to make sure he doesn't just skip his way into a situation that's too much for a puppy his age to handle. I scoop him up when we see other dogs on the street; I make sure his greetings with new humans don't include mouthing them or jumping up; and I carry him when we are out in public spaces on errands. He's getting kind of big to be carried, but I know he feels safe in my arms or over my shoulder and that allows him to explore places he might otherwise not be able to go yet as he's not fully vaccinated. It's funny. Henley was born on my daughter's birthday and he's very much like she was as a child.  She, too, was bold and confident, only crying when things didn't go her way.  Henley is exactly the same. Go figure.  I don't know if you believe in Zodiac signs, but I sure do.  These two are both Aries through and through.  So, yes, I do get frustrated with Henley (and my daughter!) but that doesn't make me love him (or her) any less.  He is different from our other collies, and I love that. He's going to keep me on my toes and I wouldn't have it any other way.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Here's Henley last week, at 12 weeks old.  He went with me to get my hair cut and spent our time there in the salon sitting on my lap, or parked on his mat chewing his bone and getting treats for being quiet and doing his basic behaviors, when asked. He charmed my hairdresser and the other patrons in the shop.  It was a good day to be a confident, collie puppy.  Here he is, sitting in the salon chair like he owns the place.  Definitely an Aries!

Setting Goals

I'm one of those people who likes to make lists.  I make lists when I grocery shop (so I don't get stuff we don't need AND so I get the stuff we do need!), lists when I travel (that way, I don't forget my sunblock, sun hat, and favorite day pack!), and lists of goals for the week, month, and sometimes even the year.  I like lists because checking items off of them feels like I've accomplished something, even if it's just that I got my car washed and the laundry done. Somedays, those are big accomplishments! 

Now that we have a puppy, however, my lists include goals for him.  Some of the goals are immediate (getting him to be able to sleep through the night without a bathroom break), others are mid-range (making sure he understands basic requests and tricks as he's going to be doing two special events with me in July!), and some are long term.  As many of you know, my plan is for Henley to become my next pet therapy dog, taking Desi's place as he's retired and Ozzie's place as he really doesn't enjoy those visits.  While I truly chose Henley with this long term goal in mind, I'm certainly not giving him back if that doesn't end up being his calling.  I love him to pieces and if it doesn't work out for him to do pet therapy, I'll find him another job.  At this point in time, however, I'm hopeful.  He shows a lot of the behaviors and characteristics I look for in solid pet therapy candidates.  I'm actually teaching a pet therapy seminar class right now, and the topic of how to train a therapy dog came up more than once.  I try not to be wishy-washy in my description of what it takes, but truly I believe that the best therapy dogs are born, not made/trained that way.  You can have the best behaved dog in the world, but if they don't enjoy meeting new people, exploring new situations, being around strange sounds/smells, etc., then they aren't going to make a good pet therapy dog. Conversely, if you have a dog that loves people, loves new situations, isn't bothered by smells or sounds, etc. they won't make a good pet therapy dog if they bark, whine, jump up, or paw excessively for attention, for example.  There has to be a nice balance between those two extremes. You need a dog who loves people, is friendly and outgoing without being easily overstimulated, and can follow basic commands like sit, down, stand, stay, wait, and come and can walk nicely with you on a leash. Since you will likely need to drive yourself and your pet to your therapy visits, it's also a must that your dog can ride in the car without getting carsick or overstimulated by things outside of the car, thus making car travel negative for them.

So, let's see how Henley's progressing.  He's got the basics (sit, down, stand, and come).  We are working on wait and stay; he's a good observational learner and Ozzie and Desi are champs at wait and stay.  He walks very nicely on leash, doesn't pull and doesn't dart back and forth.  He's learned bow, touch, turn, through, and shake is at about 80%; sometimes when you ask for shake, he flops into a down and then shakes your hand.  Funny, I think he learned that spin on shake from Westley; my daughter's collie loves to shake hands from the down position. Go figure. More observational learning going on here! I take Henley in the car with me to run errands almost every day. He doesn't get car sick and is happy to look around, not barking or getting scared/overstimulated.  He waits patiently if I step out of the car (something Ozzie has never mastered!) and isn't overly dramatic when I return.  He loves being petted and talked to by everyone he meets and shows no fear or apprehension regarding people of different ages, ethnicities, or wearing hats/sunglasses. My next challenges for him will involve working with my wheelchair and walker that I use for my pet therapy classes.  We can work with them at home before he starts encountering them out in public spaces when he's old enough to begin exploring there.

Beyond my long term goal for Henley to do pet therapy after his first birthday, I'd also like for him to be able to help me with my clients and their dogs when Ozzie has to retire from that job. That's a long ways away (I hope!), but it's something I'll still work toward.  I may have him work side by side with Ozzie with a few of my clients to see how it goes, but that won't happen until he's closer to 2 years of age, as that's when Ozzie started working as my assistant/demo dog. Two years of age seems to be perfect for a dog as they've matured out of puppyhood, have an excellent attention span, and can be trusted to nap on their own, when needed, without being enforced.

First and foremost, Henley is a well-loved family member.  But like all family members, I have expectations for him.  I want him to be happy and healthy, and I'll do my level best to make that happen for him. I also want him to be mentally challenged, so making sure I find the right job(s) for him is key.  I think he and I will enjoy getting his Canine Good Citizen (CGC) designation, but I'm really looking forward to him earning some tricks titles and therapy dog titles.  For now, however, we're just working on potty training, bite inhibition, and not making the other dogs nuts.  Smaller goals for now, but with big consequences, right?

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Here's Henley: 11.5 weeks old and working on stay.  I am standing just three feet away from him, but he's relaxed and attentive, maintaining his sit. He'll definitely get that cookie in my pocket when I release him from the stay!

Let's Get Creative!

I'm teaching a puppy class right now and I'm greatly looking forward to my own puppy joining this group for the last couple of classes, once he's had another round of vaccines and is given the go-ahead by my veterinarian. I've had a couple of clients reach out to say that they, too, are waiting to join puppy classes and are looking for more ideas of things to do at home with their puppies to maintain their sanity and that of their other pets! I know I've talked before about bathroom schedules for puppies, the importance of naps, keeping walks short, and doing daily training on the basics for a few minutes every day. But what are you supposed to do with them the rest of the time?  You know, when they're chewing on your furniture, tearing up your rugs, biting your legs, and pouncing on your adult dogs' tails.  Or is that just what's happening here at my house?! LOL.  All kidding aside, if you have a puppy right now, are these things happening for you too?  If so, here are my suggestions for ways to keep those active puppies busy and appropriately occupied between naps, training sessions, and bathroom breaks.

First off, rotate those toys.  We've got two boxes full of dog toys. There are rope toys, squeaky toys, tug toys, cuddle toys, nubby toys, all kinds of bones, hideaway toys, and toys that crunch when you grab them. With all of those choices, you might think that our puppy, Henley, would be happy as a clam just sorting through them every day.  Well, that's where you'd be wrong.  Even with all of those choices, I need to get in there and move the toys around, putting what he played with yesterday at the bottom of the boxes, and moving novel toys and bones to the top.  Why? Because if I don't, he'll get bored and think "Oh, I've already seen all of those toys" and move on to chewing on the furniture, rugs, etc. Any toy you put away for a day becomes new to a puppy when you bring it back into the rotation, so move those toys around.  If your puppy is really craving novelty, but you have a limited number of toys available, there are still things you can do to make those same toys seem different. Got rope toys?  Get one of them wet and put it in the freezer.  A frozen, crunchy rope toy is different from that dry one you play tug-of-war with. Want to increase the value even more? Soak the rope toy in low sodium chicken broth and freeze it.  Now it smells different AND is cold and crunchy.  Rope toys are easily washed in your washing machine so you can do this over and over again. Got bones that your dogs have already emptied of the marrow/stuffing?  Run them through your dishwasher to sterilize them and then stuff them with your own concoction. I like to throw cooked chicken breast and either plain Greek yogurt or peanut butter into my food processor to make my own stuffing.  I can fill those empty bones and then freeze them so the stuffing is harder to get out.  Even though Henley doesn't have the teeth to really work on these larger bones, he sure does enjoy licking out the stuffing.  Wears him out in no time and he seems to enjoy them as an alternative to a stuffed, frozen Kong. 

Speaking of Kongs:  You should have at least two of them stuffed and ready to go in your freezer.  I like to have one stuffed with kibble and a bit of nut butter and the other stuffed with the higher value chicken filling mentioned above. That way, Henley can be surprised with what he gets when it's crate quiet time. 

Never underestimate the value of ice cubes, tissue boxes and paper towel rolls, discarded Amazon boxes, etc. While you will need to supervise your puppies with these things, they are still fun for them to explore. You can cut holes in the boxes and add some treats or smeared peanut butter so those boxes become even more valuable to open up. If it's warm where you are, get yourself one of those small plastic kids wading pools. Put just a small amount of water in the pool and float those ice cubes for your puppy to bob for.  If your pup enjoys this game, then freeze blueberries, small pieces of carrot, or strawberries in water in ice cube trays (I know a lot of you may not have ice cube trays anymore, but you can find them in kitchen stores, online, and at thrift stores!) and add those colorful cubes to the wading pool.  Always supervise your puppies around water, but go ahead and enjoy that water yourself; this is a good time to dip your toes and read a book while your puppy bobs for those ice cubes.

Did you know that you can even use old towels, braided or knotted together as a toy?  Just tuck a few treats in the braids or knots for added fun.

Truly the key here is to think like a puppy. If they are chewing on furniture, then they are looking for something hard to gnaw on.  Give them a stuffed bone, hard Nylabone, etc.  Are they tearing up the rugs and throw pillows?  Give them one of those chilled rope toys or braided towels to chew on instead.  Chewing on you?  Maybe it's time for a nap.  Or a time out to calm down. Most importantly remember that it's critical to teach your puppy to be able to entertain themselves.  You should not have to be engaging them every moment that they are awake.  That's not normal, nor is it sustainable.  It's also true that even if you have other dogs, it's not their job to entertain that puppy all the time either.  Puppies need to learn to back off and do something else if the adult dogs are resting or otherwise engaged. Those puppy naps are as much for the sanity and recharging of batteries for your other pets as they are for your own well-being and that puppy's brain development.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Here's Henley enjoying one of those repurposed bones, filled with ground up chicken and peanut butter! You'll notice the carrot and rabbit toy beside him.  That's one of those hideaway toys where the puppy can pluck the bunnies out of the carrot and the bunnies squeak when they do so! It happens to be one of his favorites.

Here's Henley!

 As many of you already know, we welcomed a new addition to our family last week.  He is a 9.5 week old Smooth Collie, Romany's Best of My Love, call name Henley.  Yes, that's an Eagles reference and yes, I am a big fan of that band, and Don Henley, of course ;)

I always try to practice what I preach, so that means we are in the throes of sleep deprivation, house training, bite inhibition work, and basic training.  And that's just the work being put in by the adult dogs in our house!  All kidding aside, puppies are a lot of work.  Every time someone says they want a puppy, my response is always, "Are you sure you REALLY want a puppy?"  Puppies are a challenge.  Don't get me wrong, they are fun, but they are still a lot of work. Even if you are well prepared and you have well-socialized and helpful older dogs, there is a lot to do in order to come out the other side with a well-adjusted adult dog. 

So, it's taken a week to get him to take his naps in his crate.  While I will let him rest with the adult dogs on the dog beds scattered around our house, he needs to take those naps in his crate so that he will learn to be alone and not panic.  Even more importantly, my adult dogs need those breaks from the puppy to recharge their batteries. 

Surprisingly to me, it only took three days for him to learn to self-soothe following middle of the night bathroom breaks and not need to cuddle with me in bed to get settled enough to go back to sleep. Now, a week into our routine, he goes out and relieves himself in the middle of the night, and can be put right back into his crate to sleep again. 

He's an insanely fast eater, something we discovered during his first meal with us on the road and he finished his dinner and then tried to take Ozzie's and Westley's as well.  Being the good boys that they are, they backed away from their bowls to let him in, something my daughter and I stopped immediately.  The next day, I bought him a slow feeder/puzzle bowl and now it takes him an appropriate amount of time to consume his meals.  Even more importantly, he looks happy, moving around his bowl, nosing the moistened kibble.  He doesn't get frustrated and he doesn't walk away from the task.  This is a wonderful place for him to start on his journey to solving more complicated puzzles. For now, it'll be this puzzle feeder, a snuffle mat, some box work, and egg cartons. Next week, we'll start in with the beginner level puzzle toys from Nina Ottosson's puzzle line for Outward Hound. 

We started leash work right when we picked him up from the breeder's home.  I'm using a soft harness for him which I like to use with all the puppies I work with; this is more comfortable than a collar and safer as it doesn't pull on their necks when they slam on the breaks or charge forward.  Plus, it doesn't interfere with proper shoulder development like no-pull harnesses do.  He's too young to walk on walks with the big dogs, but he goes along anyway, being carried in a crossbody bag, and receiving treats for greeting neighbors and not struggling while being carried. It won't be long before he'll be too big to carry, but by that point, he'll have enough vaccines on board that he can do very short excursions with the big dogs. While the big dogs like to walk for 30-45 minutes, Henley's walks will be less than 10 minutes which is age-appropriate.

Because he is to be my next pet assisted therapy dog, filling the big shoes of his eldest brother and pet assisted therapy collie extraordinaire, Desi, I'm putting a lot of effort and focus on appropriate greetings with people (no jumping up, no mouthing, no barking) and getting out in public spaces frequented by people.  So far, he's probably met over 100 new people of all ages, which is good.  He's been to restaurants where he sits on my lap and people watches, learning not to climb on the table or dive onto my plate.  He's been to a farmer's market where he rode around in a sherpa bag, head out taking it all in, and being greeted by market patrons. He's been to gas stations where there were noises like trucks and motorcycles. He's even been through his first thunderstorm with lightning when we drove through Redding and had to stop for gas and food. Totally unfazed and absolutely what I was looking for from this puppy.  He was startled briefly when a train went by, rattling the building near where we were eating.  He was eating at the time, so he stopped eating, flattened himself to the ground, and listened for a minute.  He looked at the other dogs who were just fine, and he went back to eating, ignoring the train sounds. Perfect.

Like most puppies his age, Henley is mouthy.  He's really mouthy when he's tired, but he's pretty mouthy other times as well.  The older dogs do a significant amount of work on this front, letting him know when he's over the top with them and with us.  No one, however, is as good at this as my daughter's smooth collie, Westley.  Westley should get an award for his unflappable temperament with this puppy.  He plays with Henley, redirecting him to toys when needed. He corrects him for over-the-top behavior, but never in a mean way. He steps in when he sees the humans struggling to walk because there is a puppy attached to their legs or shoes.  Westley is a gem and I would not be able to do this without him.  Ozzie you ask?  Well Ozzie was over-indulged when he was a puppy as Desi let him get away with murder.  Ozzie will play with the puppy, but Ozzie gets him riled up and they run around full tilt, barking and playing chase.  That needs to be done in the yard, but there have been a couple of bouts of rousing chase in the house that had Westley and I both hollering, "Take that outside!" Desi has been awake more since the puppy arrived, and Henley is inherently gentle with him, sniffing Desi's face, snuggling him under his chin, and lots of play bows. He hasn't knocked Desi over and he gives him space to move around.  Desi seems to be enjoying the extra treats that having a puppy around entails and he also seems to like watching the other dogs play with Henley, though he doesn't want to be directly involved.  At almost 13 years of age, Desi has earned his freedom from puppy duty.

I've started working on cooperative care exercises with Henley, and this is where he's much more like Ozzie was as a puppy than he is like Westley or Desi.  He didn't like having his ears cleaned and his nails trimmed, even though he had a lick mat and I was taking it slow, moving away with the mat when he backed off of it.  He drew the line, however, at the bath.  Initially he seemed to like being in the shower, but once thoroughly wet and lathered he'd had enough of me.  Drying him off was easier with his short coat, but he was pretty frustrated with me, even growling a couple of times.  Not goofy puppy grumbles, but real growls of aggravation. Again, I slowed it all down for him so that he could see the inherent rewards in cooperating in his necessary grooming. Fortunately, he was a good puppy for his first vet visit this week, so those cooperative care exercises are paying off already!

For those of you wondering what behaviors I've taught him already, here goes.  He knows to "Go Potty!" when asked.  He will sit, lay down, stand, and turn when asked.  He's learning crawl. He knows drop it.  We are working on his name and come still.  He'd much prefer to follow the other dogs!  Luckily, the name Henley sounds like Desi, Ozzie, and Westley, and they all come when called, so I have that going for me!  I'm hoping to have him attend the puppy classes I'm currently teaching once his vet gives him the all clear to do so.  He's also scheduled to do a tricks training demonstration with me for a Golden State Warriors dog days of summer event we are doing in July, so I've got to keep plugging away on the tricks training so he'll be able to entertain and delight the attendees of that event.

I'm certain you'll see Henley again here in my blog as he continues to grow and thrive.  I'll continue to share his ups and downs in an effort to be transparent about just how much work raising a puppy truly is, even an exceptional puppy like Henley, that is, one with good breeding and a lovely temperament.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Westley is the best babysitter, puppy manager, and all around good guy.  The things that Henley can learn from Westley are too numerous to name.  My desire is for Henley to be just as sweet, engaging, and well-mannered as his Uncle Westley.  Henley is definitely as smart as Ozzie and as friendly as Desi, but Westley is the most well-balanced dog of the bunch, and that's what I want for Henley.

Is Your Dog a Scaredy-Cat?

So far this week, all of my appointments have involved fearful dogs.  Dogs afraid of noises, dogs afraid of the stairs, dogs afraid of walking on hardwood floors, and dogs afraid to ride in the car. In each case, the owners were frustrated and feeling like they were never going to get their dogs past these issues.  I get it, I really do.  Fear is one of the most frustrating problems to deal with, for owners, for veterinarians and groomers, and even for trainers and behaviorists like myself.  If you've ever had a fearful dog, you get it.  It IS frustrating.

Fear is a functional response and very hard to unlearn. While some fears are rational, many are irrational. For example, if you were bitten by a dog as a child, you might grow up being afraid of dogs.  That's a rational fear; you've been bitten before, so you could very well get bitten again.  If you're afraid of dogs, but never had a negative encounter with one, then that's an irrational fear, that is one not based on the reality of your experiences. This is true for dogs as well. I had a client years ago who was in a serious car accident and her dog was in the car with her when it happened. After the accident, he refused to get in the car, any car, no matter who was driving.  That's a rational fear.  I've also met a handful of dogs who are afraid to ride in the car, and have never had a negative experience there to support their fear.  That's an irrational fear. 

For dogs with rational fears, treatment is about convincing them that while their fears are valid, we can assure them that whatever it was that happened before is unlikely to happen again.  This is a slow process and one that takes into consideration the depth of the dog's fear and the necessity of doing whatever it is that scares them. So, while you could certainly just pick up that fearful dog, put them in the car, and take them for a drive, doing so will not allay those fears. This is akin to handing a person a live snake when you know they are afraid of snakes!  Pushing a dog (or a person) too quickly like that results in a lack of trust for the person who forced them to "cowboy up."  In the case of the dog, good luck ever being able to scoop them up again without a struggle!  Better to break up a car ride into all of its component pieces and work on each of those pieces one by one, helping the dog gain confidence and overcome their fears of each step in the process. Working on obedience exercises or playing games around the outside of the car.  Feeding the dog near the car.  Open all of the car doors and repeat the obedience work/games with judicious use of food/treats.  Sit in the car while the dog sits outside.  See if you can coax the dog to sit in the car with you, doors still open, no restraints involved.  Build up to sitting in the car together for longer periods of time until they will get in and sit down and allow a safety restraint and closed doors.  Now, turn on the car and sit with the car running.  Move on from this to a short drive down your street.  Then it's on to around the block and eventually to a location the dog loves; the park, a friend's house, a favorite hiking spot.  Baby steps are key and not pushing through any of the steps too quickly.  I had one client diligently working through the steps, making great progress, but then she rushed the last few steps as she wanted to drive the dog to the vet for a vaccine appointment.  Not only was the dog not ready for that drive, a vaccine appointment isn't a particularly pleasurable experience for a dog.  This one vet appointment car ride set my client back over a month in her desensitization training.  I asked her why she hadn't just scheduled for a mobile vet to come to the house to do the vaccine appointment and she said she sure wished that she had!

For irrational fears, the treatment still involves desensitization, but often also involves distractions and redirection.  The dog almost needs to be tricked into doing whatever scares them so that they can see that there wasn't anything to be afraid of in the first place.  For example, I treated a dog who was terrified of shiny floors.  He'd never once slipped or fallen, he just hated them and avoided them like they were hot lava.  He'd try to jump over them, or go around them, even if it meant going out one door and coming back inside through another.  For him, I brought along some foot balm that would give him traction.  I massaged his feet, applying the balm as I went along.  I gave him high value treats while I touched his feet. Then, I put down a few rugs on the shiny surface and had him walk with me while on a leash, lots of praise and treats. He was so focused on the steak that when he stepped off the last rug onto the shiny floor, he just kept going.  I walked along with him dropping treats until we got to the other side.  When he realized what he'd done, he seemed surprised himself!  I then sat down on the shiny floor with my bag of steak, eating a few bites myself.  He was tentative at first, but he took a few steps on his own, realized he wasn't going to slip or slide, and he moved right over and nudged me to share.  Mission accomplished.

The world is full of potential risks.  Some things are more likely to occur than others.  Smart, fearful dogs seem to be able to think about all of the possible outcomes, dwelling on the worst case scenarios.  It's our job as their caretakers to help them see that while the world can be a scary place, we are there to help them navigate it.  It's worth it to do this slowly so you build trust and your dog gains confidence.  Try not to get too frustrated.  Keep your sessions frequent and short, that helps.  Some dogs may need some anti-anxiety medication as part of the process as well.  I am always happy to help you figure out what will work best for your individual situation.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Westley used to be overcome with fear on trash day; the sound of the garbage trucks created such panic for him. Now, after slow desensitization exercises and CBD oil made for dogs, he can manage garbage day with minimal stress, often just retreating to his crate until they are gone.  When he's visiting me, he can even walk the neighborhood on trash day as long as his buddy Ozzie is there for moral support. And his favorite thing to do on trash day?  Go for a ride in the car to his favorite hiking trail and hike with my daughter until the garbage truck monsters have moved on.

Please DO (Hand) Feed the Animals!

In last week's blog post, I talked briefly about hand-feeding puppies as part of their training, and as part of your effort to ensure that your puppy isn't weird around food/feeding time. I had someone reach out and ask if hand-feeding had any value for dogs who aren't puppies, and someone else who reached out and said they tried hand-feeding, but their puppy goes bonkers when he hand feeds her and he's afraid he'll lose a finger in the process!  Seems like it's time to dive a bit deeper into the pros and cons of hand-feeding, when to do so, and when to back off.

First and foremost, you will want to try hand-feeding with your puppies from the moment you bring them home.  You need to know that they aren't aggressive around food and know how to take it nicely from your hand.  It's also a wonderful way to bond with your puppy, reinforcing that you truly are the bearer of all wonderful things.  For puppies who get overly exuberant when food comes out, you'll want to take extra care so as not to lose a finger (lol) or inadvertently reinforce grabby behavior.  Here's how I like to introduce hand-feeding to those "shark puppies." First, I let them see I have the kibble in one of my hands.  If they jump up, bark or whine, I turn away taking the food with me.  Once they have four feet on the floor (I work on this before even attempting to get a sit around food), I lower my hand with kibble inside a closed fist.  As they bump their nose to my hand, they'll realize the food isn't going to drop because they are shoving, pawing, or being overly grabby.  Usually what happens is they get frustrated and plop into a sit.  The second that happens, I swoop with my other hand that also had kibble in it.  Oh boy!  They didn't realize that both hands could have valuable rewards.  Now, they're paying attention.  I continue to do the hand-feeding this way until the puppy stops sharking at my closed fist and begins to offer a sit when he sees that closed hand coming his way.  This way, you have something to work with going forward; you can begin to ask for other behaviors and use that kibble as a reward.  Remember, too, to also do the food bowl exercises I outlined last week so you are certain that your puppy is happy and content even with hands around the food bowl, above his head, and on his body while he's eating.

Hand-feeding is not just for puppies though!  There is a great deal of value in hand-feeding dogs of any age.  First and foremost, it does increase your value in their minds.  Food isn't free and doesn't just magically show up in their bowls, rather they work for all of it, or at least some of it, before the remainder is placed in their bowl. If you have a new dog in your home, hand-feeding can be a way to establish rapport with that dog, teaching them to focus on you and what you are asking of them.  For adolescent dogs, hand-feeding can be part of their daily training exercises, slowing down the speed with which they eat and getting them to hone their skills.  For senior dogs, hand-feeding can be a lovely way of spending time with a dog who is likely slowing down in their eating process and needing a little extra attention. Above all, and regardless of the age of a dog, hand-feeding a dog is a bonding experience.  Because of that, some dogs get so attached to the process that they don't want to eat any other way.  If that's the case, simply hand-feed a small portion to get your dog's tastebuds primed, and put the remainder in their bowl.  Give them 15 minutes to eat it (or not), pick it up, and do the same at the next meal. If they are hungry enough, they will eat.  I promise.

So when shouldn't you hand-feed a dog?  If the dog you are working with is fearful, then hand-feeding can make the behavior worse rather than better, causing more stress. For example, there are a lot of folks who try handing treats/food to their guests or visitors to their home, telling them, give him treats and he'll calm down.  This can be very anxiety-provoking for a fearful or aggressive dog; they may be food motivated, but getting that close to get the food means that once they've taken the food they will realize they are close to someone that makes them anxious, and they may then bark, run away, or even lunge and snap at the new person, thus those treats given didn't reduce anxiety, they reinforced it.  Giving treats/food to people to give your fearful dog will end up being viewed by your dog as a trap; yes, they can be lured in to grab the food, but it isn't changing the way they view strangers.  Better for you yourself to give your dog those treats/food in the presence of strangers who are at a distance away and actively ignoring your dog. As your dog gets more comfortable, you can decrease the distance, but again ask those strangers helping you with your dog to continue to ignore him.  

Finally, while I (obviously!) think hand-feeding should be part of every dog's day, I do know that we don't always have time to do so.  A nice bridge between hand-feeding and bowl feeding is to place the food in a slow-feeder bowl or a puzzle toy.  In both cases, your dog will be working for his food, he'll just be working diligently on his own.  For dogs who are champs at the hand-feeding, placing the remainder in a puzzle toy becomes a double reinforcer; they get food and they get to solve a puzzle/play.  If your dog does enjoy puzzles, be sure and have several that you rotate so that interest remains peaked and your dog remains motivated to solve them.  

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Ozzie very much enjoys hand-feeding exercises, as well as his slow feeder bowl and any puzzle I throw his way.  He has always been a joy to work with where food was involved, never trying to grab the food or my fingers.  He just wants the vending machine to keep vending!

Time IS on Your Side!

I received a message from a client who now lives out of state.  We worked together years ago when she rescued her first dog.  I taught a lot of classes back in the late 90's and early 2000's, and she must have attended three or four of them with her dog.  He was a rambunctious adolescent, eager to please, but mouthy, jumpy, and terrible on the leash.  She worked really hard with him and he blossomed into a lovely companion dog, making it to almost 16 years old. She was reaching out because she's getting a new puppy next week from a breeder, another first for her!  She's never had a puppy before, let alone a purebred dog, so she feels like she's got more to learn and fast.  She's already scheduled the puppy's first vet visit and signed up for a round of puppy classes, but those classes don't start until mid-June.  She's already worried that she'll be "behind the curve" with her new puppy by waiting those weeks before classes begin.  She was hoping for some tips on things she could do with her puppy before classes even begin.  Happy to oblige!

While puppy classes are great, they aren't the be all/end all for every dog.  In fact, puppy classes aren't suitable for puppies who are overly fearful (the classes can reinforce their fear); they aren't for puppies who are experiencing aggression (the classes expose other impressionable puppies to unsafe situations); and they aren't for puppies who are easily overwhelmed. Don't get me wrong; puppy classes are great controlled socialization opportunities for the average puppy, but not every puppy will thrive there. So, whether you have a puppy for whom classes aren't an option, or you live in an area where suitable classes aren't available, or like my client, the classes are available but require waiting, there are lots of things you can do with your puppy, on your own, to get them off to a great start.

First and foremost, puppies need to be good with people, so taking your puppy out in public for short periods of time everyday is good for their social development.  Since they aren't fully vaccinated, you'll need to carry them, or put them in a buggy or wagon, to protect them from exposure to pathogens.  Do, however, encourage people of all ages, colors, and abilities to approach your puppy.  If your puppy gets overwhelmed easily, you may need to start with excursions to less populated areas and work you way up to malls and restaurants that allows dogs.  Take treats with you and reinforce your puppy for calm behaviors like looking around, inviting greetings from strangers, etc. 

Puppies also need to be good with handling, whether that handling is being done by you, your groomer, or your veterinarian.  Start handling exercises and cooperative care the moment you bring your new puppy home.  Handle them all over, inspecting ears, mouths, bellies, etc.  You can use a lick mat smeared with peanut butter or baby food if they are really wiggly, but do work daily on being able to look in their mouth, inspect their feet, and touch their ears and clean their eyes. Cooperative care exercises like those I've outlined in previous blog posts are important in helping your puppy understand that holding still and allowing care is in their best interest. And if they feel overwhelmed or uncomfortable, all they have to do is move away from the food; they don't have to jerk away from handling, bite your hand, or skitter away.  They simply have to back away to indicate their discomfort and then you can give them a moment before trying again. 

Those basics that I outlined last week (come, sit, and down) are behaviors you can work on before you ever get to a class.  You should also work on leash walking with your puppy, even though you'll only be walking around for 5 minutes or less, inside your house or in your own yard. Walking nicely on a leash doesn't come easily to most puppies; they don't appreciate collars and harnesses that restrict their movement and leashes that keep them from being able to scamper away!  It will take patience and daily training sessions to get your puppy to the point where they aren't stopping every 5 seconds to scratch at their collar or harness and trying to grab the leash from your hand.  This is all developmentally appropriate, but worth working on at home before attending classes.

Food bowl exercises can be done daily as well.  For at least one meal each day, hand feed your puppy, petting them and handling them while offering them the food. Some puppies get so distracted by the love that they almost can't eat, and that's okay!  You are doing the hand feeding so you can see if your puppy has any questionable behavior around food.  If they are fine with hand feeding, you can start adding food into the bowl while petting them and making noise around them. Still good with that?  Now you can drop food from above into their bowl while they are eating.  Still no problem?  Great! Now, bend down and put your hand on the bowl while they are eating and pet them with the other hand.  All good?  Add some more food to that bowl!  Now, try picking up the bowl, add some more food, and put the bowl back down. You will want to continue to do these exercises around food and mealtimes periodically throughout their first year of life.  While I know there are people who will tell you that dogs should be left alone while they eat, the truth of the matter is that at some point in time, every dog's mealtime will be disrupted by people.  You want to make sure that your kids, grandkids, neighbor kids, and housesitters will all be safe if they are the ones to interrupt your dog's mealtime. 

If you are doing crate training with your puppy (which I truly hope you are!) then you will want to be reinforcing that crate as their safe space throughout the day.  If your puppy loves their crate, readily hopping in there for naps and nighttime sleep, then you may have to do very little to reinforce how great that crate really is. If, however, your puppy doesn't seem to enjoy that crate as much as they should, then you'll need to put in some time helping them to see it from a different perspective.  Put the crate on the floor next to your favorite chair or your bed and grab a book and some treats for yourself as well as for your puppy.  Toss a treat inside your puppy's crate for them to follow in and leave the door open.  When they pop out, sit in your chair or on your bed and reach over to poke a treat through the top or side of the crate so the puppy has to go back inside to get it. Hopefully, if you do this a few times your puppy will see that they can get the treats faster if they just stay inside the crate.  Once that happens, you can begin feeding your puppy meals inside their crate, offering them frozen filled Kongs there, or even an enticing bone.  If they can enjoy those items with the door open, try shutting the door, but do stay with them (perfect opportunity to read that book and have your own snack) so you can open the door if they start to panic or fuss.  Build up to longer periods of time in the crate with the door closed and begin trying to leave the room.  Hopefully, your puppy will accept their crate and be able to rest there for short periods of time everyday.

Your puppy will likely be getting plenty of physical exercise at home, chasing their toys, walking on that leash, and running toward you when you call them.  There isn't any need to push a puppy to do long walks/hikes, fetch for extended periods of time, or run around with your other dog. In fact, over-exercising a puppy can have huge consequences in terms of pain, interfering with normal bone growth and development, and result in an over-tired, obnoxious puppy who can't settle down.  Keep the physical activity age-appropriate, enforce those naps, and put an equal amount of importance on mental exercise for your puppy.  Those brain games and puzzles I love aren't just for adolescent and adult dogs.  There are puzzles specifically designed for puppies, that are easier to solve and more durable for those sharp, puppy teeth.  Get a few puzzles so you can rotate which puzzle you give to your puppy everyday.  You can even use those puzzles to help your puppy wind down and transition from active play to self-directed play before a nap.

See?  So much you can do to train your puppy well before you ever set foot in puppy class.  By doing all of these activities daily with your puppy, he will not only be ready for puppy class, he'll be the star pupil, able to focus on the exercises being taught there with distractions.  For me, I feel like the primary reason to attend puppy classes is to give your puppy the opportunity to play with and interact with other puppies, big and small, while being supervised. The best puppy classes I know are mixed, all breeds welcome, and without an adult dog present to squelch their fun.  I know some instructors like to have their own adolescent or adult dogs attend their puppy classes to show the puppies the ropes, but I do know that the presence of an unfamiliar adult dog can curb some puppy behavior that needs to happen for the benefit of those puppies.  Having the humans there in class is what's needed to redirect puppies, assign time outs, and establish and encourage appropriate play.

I went over all of this with my client, reinforcing that she can use that time before puppy classes begin to get her puppy off to a great start! I know she's going to feel overwhelmed at times, given that this is her first puppy, but frankly, who hasn't felt overwhelmed by a puppy? Puppies are a lot of work, but it feels so worth it when you can see all of your hard work paying off in the form of a dog who is comfortable and capable across situations, able to make their needs known, and behaviorally reliable.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Here's Ozzie at 4 months old, having worn himself out with a Nina Ottosson puzzle toy.  He fell asleep with his little tongue hanging out!