Please DO (Hand) Feed the Animals!

In last week's blog post, I talked briefly about hand-feeding puppies as part of their training, and as part of your effort to ensure that your puppy isn't weird around food/feeding time. I had someone reach out and ask if hand-feeding had any value for dogs who aren't puppies, and someone else who reached out and said they tried hand-feeding, but their puppy goes bonkers when he hand feeds her and he's afraid he'll lose a finger in the process!  Seems like it's time to dive a bit deeper into the pros and cons of hand-feeding, when to do so, and when to back off.

First and foremost, you will want to try hand-feeding with your puppies from the moment you bring them home.  You need to know that they aren't aggressive around food and know how to take it nicely from your hand.  It's also a wonderful way to bond with your puppy, reinforcing that you truly are the bearer of all wonderful things.  For puppies who get overly exuberant when food comes out, you'll want to take extra care so as not to lose a finger (lol) or inadvertently reinforce grabby behavior.  Here's how I like to introduce hand-feeding to those "shark puppies." First, I let them see I have the kibble in one of my hands.  If they jump up, bark or whine, I turn away taking the food with me.  Once they have four feet on the floor (I work on this before even attempting to get a sit around food), I lower my hand with kibble inside a closed fist.  As they bump their nose to my hand, they'll realize the food isn't going to drop because they are shoving, pawing, or being overly grabby.  Usually what happens is they get frustrated and plop into a sit.  The second that happens, I swoop with my other hand that also had kibble in it.  Oh boy!  They didn't realize that both hands could have valuable rewards.  Now, they're paying attention.  I continue to do the hand-feeding this way until the puppy stops sharking at my closed fist and begins to offer a sit when he sees that closed hand coming his way.  This way, you have something to work with going forward; you can begin to ask for other behaviors and use that kibble as a reward.  Remember, too, to also do the food bowl exercises I outlined last week so you are certain that your puppy is happy and content even with hands around the food bowl, above his head, and on his body while he's eating.

Hand-feeding is not just for puppies though!  There is a great deal of value in hand-feeding dogs of any age.  First and foremost, it does increase your value in their minds.  Food isn't free and doesn't just magically show up in their bowls, rather they work for all of it, or at least some of it, before the remainder is placed in their bowl. If you have a new dog in your home, hand-feeding can be a way to establish rapport with that dog, teaching them to focus on you and what you are asking of them.  For adolescent dogs, hand-feeding can be part of their daily training exercises, slowing down the speed with which they eat and getting them to hone their skills.  For senior dogs, hand-feeding can be a lovely way of spending time with a dog who is likely slowing down in their eating process and needing a little extra attention. Above all, and regardless of the age of a dog, hand-feeding a dog is a bonding experience.  Because of that, some dogs get so attached to the process that they don't want to eat any other way.  If that's the case, simply hand-feed a small portion to get your dog's tastebuds primed, and put the remainder in their bowl.  Give them 15 minutes to eat it (or not), pick it up, and do the same at the next meal. If they are hungry enough, they will eat.  I promise.

So when shouldn't you hand-feed a dog?  If the dog you are working with is fearful, then hand-feeding can make the behavior worse rather than better, causing more stress. For example, there are a lot of folks who try handing treats/food to their guests or visitors to their home, telling them, give him treats and he'll calm down.  This can be very anxiety-provoking for a fearful or aggressive dog; they may be food motivated, but getting that close to get the food means that once they've taken the food they will realize they are close to someone that makes them anxious, and they may then bark, run away, or even lunge and snap at the new person, thus those treats given didn't reduce anxiety, they reinforced it.  Giving treats/food to people to give your fearful dog will end up being viewed by your dog as a trap; yes, they can be lured in to grab the food, but it isn't changing the way they view strangers.  Better for you yourself to give your dog those treats/food in the presence of strangers who are at a distance away and actively ignoring your dog. As your dog gets more comfortable, you can decrease the distance, but again ask those strangers helping you with your dog to continue to ignore him.  

Finally, while I (obviously!) think hand-feeding should be part of every dog's day, I do know that we don't always have time to do so.  A nice bridge between hand-feeding and bowl feeding is to place the food in a slow-feeder bowl or a puzzle toy.  In both cases, your dog will be working for his food, he'll just be working diligently on his own.  For dogs who are champs at the hand-feeding, placing the remainder in a puzzle toy becomes a double reinforcer; they get food and they get to solve a puzzle/play.  If your dog does enjoy puzzles, be sure and have several that you rotate so that interest remains peaked and your dog remains motivated to solve them.  

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Ozzie very much enjoys hand-feeding exercises, as well as his slow feeder bowl and any puzzle I throw his way.  He has always been a joy to work with where food was involved, never trying to grab the food or my fingers.  He just wants the vending machine to keep vending!