Revisiting Resource Guarding One More Time

In the last two weeks, I have seen six puppies under five months of age demonstrating resource guarding aggression toward their human family members.  While I have certainly seen quite a few resource guarding puppies over the years, to see so many in such a short period of time was a real red flag for me.  What is going on? Interestingly enough, every one of these puppies was a doodle of some kind.  I went back and did a broad search of my files and found that over the last ten years, the most common behavior problem I've treated in doodles has been resource guarding and/or resource guarding aggression. Interesting and unfortunate given the plethora of doodles that are out there in families right now. Regardless of this though, what could I suggest these puppy owners do to make things a bit safer in their homes? 

First and foremost, I needed to assess each home environment to determine if management was even possible.  All but one of these puppies belonged to a family with children under ten years of age. Typically, dealing with dogs who resource guard in home with children is difficult.  Kids are kids and they may not even recognize when a dog is resource guarding something until it is too late.  Even in homes where the family members know what to do when their dog is resource guarding, it may be the case that visitors or friends are caught unawares with catastrophic consequences. 

We've talked about this before:  Resource guarding per se isn't a bad thing.  We all resource guard our homes and cars by locking them up, adding alarms and cameras, and reporting any suspicious activity in our neighborhoods.  Now, I'm not saying you are going to escalate to biting an intruder on your property, but your resource guarding dog might!  And what if it's not an intruder but your daughter's boyfriend sneaking around outside of your house?  You get my drift.  How far your dog is willing to take their resource guarding is the question to be answered honestly.

Dogs are natural territorial guardians and protectors.  They are vigilant and watchful, noting changes that we might otherwise miss.  Some not only protect their home turf, but they protect the people there as well.  Others take it further, protecting their toys, beds, chews, bones, or food bowl.  Some even protect the spot where they are sitting or laying down, no bed required. It's one thing for a dog to defend their territory or favorite chew or toy from another dog, and it's quite another for them to defend those things from you, their beloved human family members. 

It's important to test for resource guarding behavior often and early with puppies.  Breeders can test for it by observing their litters of puppies for signs of resource guarding behavior between siblings and note how issues are settled between the pups.  If one puppy has a chew, for example, and a sibling approaches to try and take it, the interaction could go one of several ways. First, the puppy could give up what they have to their sibling.  They could hold onto it tightly, turning away or trying to move away with it.  They could stiffen over their prize and growl at their sibling to back off.  They could snap or bite at their sibling to discourage them as well.  Each of these possible outcomes says a lot about the puppy with the chew. Same goes for observing puppies around communal food and water bowls, beds, and when picked up or handled while resting. 

Even if your breeder did all of these things, you still have work to do when you bring your puppy home! Now that they will be living and learning without their siblings, it's up to you to continue to test for resource guarding.  The most common exercises that puppy owners are exposed to are those that test for resource guarding aggression around the food bowl.  Let's review that first.

Start with an empty bowl and give that to your puppy.  When they look up at you like, "What gives?! This bowl is empty!" add in about 1/8 cup of food (basically a small handful).  Give them a brief pat.  As long as they don't stiffen, growl, etc., you can add more food.  Pet them some more.  Still no stiffness or aggression? Rain some pennies from heaven, aka drop some yummy treats from above their head into the bowl.  Over the course of a week's worth of meals, add in more hovering, more petting, etc. just to make sure they aren't guardy or defensive around their food or the food bowl. If you notice any stiffening, growling, or worse, seek help before continuing!  Do not let your children practice these exercises unless you are certain your puppy does not resource guard their food or the bowl.  And, of course, supervise your children doing the food bowl exercises. 

Next, you will want to test guarding of bones, chews, toys, etc.  Each time you give your puppy a new chew, bone, or toy, hold onto it.  Let them sniff it and sample it, but don't just give it to them.  Ask them to sit.  Offer it for a bit more chewing or investigation.  Let them get a grip on it and then ask them to drop it, or simply trade with you for a high value treat.  If they will happily chew on it while you hold it and they'll trade for the goodies you have, go ahead and give them the new item.  Do this every time you introduce a new toy or chew just to make sure you haven't inadvertently brought an item into your home that your puppy deems so valuable that they will guard and aggressively defend it.

I want to note something here.  I realize that this seems like a lot of work, but for anyone who has ever dealt with a resource guarding puppy or dog, knowing what that dog will guard and what they won't is critical.  Knowing this information helps you, the owner, to make smart choices with regard to what you give your puppy or dog and where you give it to them.  Some dogs that resource guard can only have valuable items when in their crate, for example.  This keeps everyone safe.  And if your puppy or dog hoards an item, not chewing on it or eating it (if it's edible), then perhaps it's wise to remove that item from the list of things that they are even allowed to have. I've known many a dog who can't have bullysticks or bones because they hoarded them and would aggressively guard them, but never ate or chewed on them.

In every home, but especially those with kids, you'll want to test to see if your puppy is guardy with their beds, crates, or spot on the furniture, if you let them up there.  If they are guardy on the furniture, they shouldn't be allowed up there, period. If they guard their bed, put the bed inside an x-pen so that you can better control that defensible area.  If they guard their crate, put the crate in a lower traffic area to decrease the drama around the crate itself.

While it is possible to live with a resource guarding puppy or dog for the entirety of their lives, it isn't always easy and it isn't without some risk.  Each person or family needs to determine for themselves if they are capable of safely managing a resource guarding dog or not.  And if the answer is that they aren't, or they don't want to as that's not what they signed up for when they got the dog, then return them to the breeder, rescue group, etc. Resource guarding aggression isn't a curable problem but it can be manageable.  You just have to the find the right match for the puppy or dog.

Finally, even if your puppy doesn't resource guard, teach them to trade items they have for food; teach them drop it when they pick something up, even if it's theirs, and give them a treat for their compliance; and teach leave it so (hopefully) you can call them off of or away from things you don't want picked up at all.  These are all skills your dog will use for a lifetime.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Here are Henley and Zelly sharing a new Nylabone.  You can see that there is a second new bone next to Zelly, but she wants to the one Henley has, of course.  They will both chew on that one, at the same time, until someone bores of that game and grabs the other one. This goes on anytime I bring in new toys or chews.  They all want the same one, but they'll share whatever they've got.  

My Puppy Is Driving Me Crazy!

That's literally the message a new client left in my voicemail.  When I called her back, I could hear a puppy yapping away in the background of our call.  Apparently he does that anytime she doesn't pay attention to him.  He also hates the leash, hates the harness, won't go into his crate willingly, cries if she leaves the room for two minutes, and won't let her bathe him (he stepped in his own poop, then laid in it, requiring a bath which ended up in a bath for the owner too!). She indicated that she didn't even try to trim his nails.  She half-jokingly told me she'd leave all future baths, nail trims, etc. to a groomer to "deal with him." Clearly, time for an intervention!

Just because they are puppies doesn't mean that they will automatically comply with everything you want them to do.  In fact, puppies often need a bit of extra time to find their own way around anything new, particularly anything that they think might be scary. Even when handed a new toy or new bone, a puppy may gladly take the item, then drop it and sniff it, before picking it up again and trying it out. I can safely say that I've never met a puppy who loved a collar, harness, or leash the first time they were introduced.  Henley tried to alligator roll his way out of his harness the first time he actually wore it and acted as if the leash attached to it was cramping his style.  Collars, harnesses, and leashes are used for safety reasons by us, but feel unnatural to a puppy; they limit their mobility and exploration.  You have to introduce them slowly, pairing with good stuff like food and toys they love.  Because collars and harnesses need to be fitted properly, requiring that you take them on and off several times, I like to use a lick mat with either baby food or canned puppy food on it.  I use a lick mat that suctions to a metal surface and attach it to my fridge or dishwasher at head height and encourage licking it while I work through the process of fitting the collar or harness to a wiggly puppy.  When it comes time for the leash, I always use an old, inexpensive one that I don't mind the puppy chewing on since I let them drag it around the house, attached to their collar or harness, while I supervise by tossing treats for them to find.  By letting them drag the leash, they learn that leashes aren't as limiting as they first thought.  Once they will freely drag a leash around, I pick it up and follow them wherever they go so there's very little tension on that leash.  Then, I move on to using treats to lure them to walk near me indoors long before we move outside.  Yes, it's tedious but it allows the puppy to be an active participant in their own training.  

The same goes for training a puppy to enjoy their crate.  Feed them in it, give them bones there, use puzzles in the crate, and sit by the crate yourself, reading a book, working on your computer, etc.  Get your puppy used to a crate with an open door and good things inside before you ever close the door.  Build up how long they can be in there with the door closed and you nearby before you try leaving the room.  Remember that for most puppies, arriving at your house and joining your family is their first time alone and away from their mother and siblings.  Going from sleeping with other familiar dogs to sleeping by yourself is a big step and one that takes a moment for a lot of the puppies I meet.

Baths and nail trims: Those are often rough regardless of the age of your dog.  But, again, it's about counter-conditioning and desensitization.  Start with getting your puppy used to the sound of running water.  Have them in the bathroom with you when the water is running and offer them treats.  Build up to having them stand in a dry tub and lick a lick mat.  Next, have them stand in a tub with water in it.  Now, turn on the water while they are standing in water.  You can use a cup to pour water on their body, but try a wash cloth for their face, neck, and bottom.  Don't scrub!  Gently rub and handle them all over.  Same goes for drying them off; dry them off gently with a pre-warmed towel, don't roughly buff them like they are a car! While you may be tempted to do ears and nails on bath day, resist the urge!  A bath is enough stimulation for one day for a puppy.  Save the ears for a different day and the nails for a separate day from that.  I've reviewed how to desensitize your puppy to ear cleaning and nail trimming before in my blog post on cooperative care.  Here's a link, just in case you need a refresher:

https://juliebondanimalbehaviorist.blogspot.com/2022/02/teaching-cooperative-care-to-puppies.html

I know it's tempting to just leave the grooming (baths, ear cleaning, and nail trimming) to the professionals, but resist the temptation.  Even if you intend to use a groomer for most of your dog's care, you will still need to be able to do some of this at home.  Dogs step in things, roll in things, get skunked, get eye infections and ear infections, tear nails, and get food (or vomit!) on their faces.  You will need to be able to spot clean your dog at a minimum, and be able to give them a full bath when necessary.  Even if you never trim all of their nails yourself, you need to be able to handle their feet if they step on or in something.  Do the work. Break the task into smaller steps.  Have treats.  Take frequent breaks. Don't get frustrated.  Ask for help when you need it!

I actually had an in-person appointment with the client mentioned above and her ten week old puppy.  He and I hit it off right away so I started working with him around his crate since that was still a hurdle for this owner.  I had her walk away and leave us to it so I could see if he'd allow her to leave the room if he had me there.  Not only was he fine when she left, he never even glanced her way, which cracked me up.  I tossed treats in the crate, opened and closed the door, played with him with a flirt pole I'd brought along, and then put him in the crate with a yak chew I'd also brought to this appointment.  I shut the door and told him I'd be right back and I walked out of the room.  I immediately came back and he didn't even glance my way, he was quite focused on the chew.  I came out to talk to the owner and she was flabbergasted that he wasn't barking or whining!  We went back to the crate together and he looked up from the chew, and then went right back at it.  I opened the crate door and he came out with the chew in his mouth. I traded a treat for the chew as now we had a reward we could use to get him to readily crate on his own.  Now, he'll only get those yummy yak chews when he's in his crate, further reinforcing how great they are to him.

Raising a puppy takes an infinite amount of patience.  And truly, puppies aren't for everyone.  Remember, however, that any new dog you acquire, regardless of the age of the dog, will require some desensitization and counter-conditioning.  How much will depend on what they've already been trained to do and how positive those experiences were for them.  If your adult dog is terrified of baths, for example, you may have to do those same exercises above to change his point of view.  It's worth it to do so.  Honest!

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

This is a an old picture of Ozzie on the grooming table when it was in the garage. Now, our grooming table is outside which the dogs seem to enjoy a lot more.  More to look at out there!  He's very patient on the table, standing for brush outs and trims, but he sits like a gentleman, offering a paw for foot hair trims and nails.  How did he get that way?  You guessed it.  Early desensitization and lots of treats!

Yes, It IS Good Enough!

You know how I'm always talking about letting your dogs sniff on their walks?  Well, I had someone reach out to tell me that they try and try and try to do this, but they find it so aggravating that it can't be all that rewarding for their dog as they so clearly hate it themselves!  I appreciated this person's candor; it IS hard to change the way we do anything, whether that's the way we walk our dogs or the way we approach exercise for ourselves.  Both require us to change our mindset, cut ourselves some slack knowing mistakes/setbacks happen, and enjoy the process as much as we can.  Here's what I mean.

I'm a runner.  I'm not particularly fast, but I am consistent, what other runners refer to as a pacer.  If you want to teach yourself to keep a consistent speed, run with me.  I run the same pace whether I'm running in a 5K or I'm running for fun on a random Tuesday.  I do, however, run splits to challenge myself, especially if I have a race coming up.  A split is the time it takes a runner to run a certain distance, say a mile, when the race itself is longer than that.  You look at your split times to see how you can work up to different pacing strategies to get you through a race. A negative split means running the second half of your run faster than the first half.  Runners who do endurance runs, or who want to improve their overall time, work on this a lot.  A positive split means running the second half of your run at a slower pace than the first half.  People who run mostly for fun do this.  And then there are those who do even splits which is running each mile at the exact same pace, which is your split time, like a 10-minute mile. So, why am I telling you all this?  I'd like you to try approaching your walks with your dog like a runner doing splits.  

Divide your walk into segments.  Maybe allow your dog to sniff and relieve themselves for the first ten minutes of your walk.  Pause, tell them it's go time, and spend the next ten minutes speed walking, no stopping to sniff, focusing on your breathing, length of stride, and encouraging your dog to keep their head up and match your pace.  Then pause, and either return to the slower, sniffing pace (a positive split), or pick up the pace yet again, maybe trotting or jogging with your dog if they are healthy enough to do that (a negative split).  Finish your walk with a cool down, meaning a slower pace full of deep breathing for you, looking around and enjoying the view, and a sniff and final bathroom break for your dog.  By dividing your walk into splits, you allow yourself the opportunity to get some exercise, but you also give your dog what they need, ample time to sniff and explore.  By doing the pause in between splits, you give your dog the opportunity to note that a change is happening.  It allows them to prepare and know what you expect of them.  Here's an example.

When I walk with Ozzie and Henley together, we maintain a consistently slower pace for the entire walk, lots of sniffing and exploring.  Ozzie is 11 years old and his pace has slowed greatly; he now only runs if he sees a squirrel worth chasing!  That slow pace is somewhat frustrating for Henley, however, as he likes to walk quite a bit faster between sniffs.  How do I make the walk work for both of them?  I still do splits, they are just slower paced overall.  On the "no sniff" split, I pick up the pace just slightly and encourage Ozzie to move by saying things like,"what's that over there?!" which causes his head to come up and him to trot forward to look.  That way, Henley can move along at the pace he enjoys more.  Now, when I walk Henley alone, we do that exact pattern I described in the previous paragraph; the first ten minutes of our walk is for sniffing and toileting, and the remaining 35 minutes is broken into three, ten minute splits where we speed walk, then jog, then run, before our five minute cool down, positive split, at the end.  

Doing something like splits on your walks will give you the opportunity to get a bit of exercise which is what most people tell me is the problem with these sniff and stroll walks, not enough cardio for the human!  The cool thing about doing splits with your dog, however, is that they will get into better physical shape as well.  And your walks will ultimately be less frustrating because you are getting your cardio and your dog is getting their sniff time, and you are both feeling satisfied with the outing overall, which was the goal, right?  To enjoy your walks together.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

So my daughter and I both walk Zelly.  I often walk her with Henley which means she does splits as I outlined above.  My daughter does sniff and strolls with her mostly, but they also hike once to twice a week, working on their stamina with hills.  My daughter is also a runner and she will begin training with Zelly during the summer to do canicross, which are races you can do with your dog. Zelly has learned to pace with me, so I have no doubt she and my daughter will be placing in canicross races in the not so distant future.

        

Why Some Dogs Resist Change

I received an email from one of my favorite clients. She was stumped as to why one of her dogs wasn't readily accepting the new crate she had purchased. She'd upgraded her dogs' crates to a newer style, more durable, and from a company that she'd followed online, waiting patiently for them to release an a-frame style “dog den” that she thought both of her dogs would love. While one dog readily accepted the upgraded crate, the other did not, avoiding the new crate, even with coaxing only going inside for a few moments before wanting to come right back out. She doesn't seem afraid of the new den-style crate, she'll sniff it and explore it, she just won't go in it on her own. My client had removed the door, put the dog's bedding inside, and still her dog wouldn't go in there willingly, let alone sleep inside it. It's been almost a month now and still no headway is being made so she reached out to me for advice.

First and foremost, change is not always easy, for any of us. Even with humans, some of us find change challenging, and for some, even anxiety-provoking. When it comes to change, our dogs and cats are not so different from us. While they might eagerly embrace a new toy or treat, sweeping changes to their food (such as a reduction in amount given), daily routine (fewer walks, for example), or schedule (perhaps fed at a later time) can result in unexpected stress. Necessary changes need to be done gradually, when possible, to minimize resistance on the part of our pets. When it comes to dog beds, crates, or just their general sleeping arrangements, dogs can be pretty particular. But again, not so different from some of us. Here's an example.

For many humans, a stay in a hotel can be exciting and something to look forward to: A trip away from home, a much needed vacation, or just a necessary part of life for someone on the road for work. Adjusting to life in a hotel room, including sleeping in an unfamiliar bed, however, can take some travelers a couple of days/nights to become comfortable enough to sleep as they would at home in their own rooms/beds. The same is true for our dogs.

When we get rid of an old sofa or chair, we may see that as a good thing. The piece of furniture needed replacing as it was worn or maybe it just didn't fit in with our lifestyle, color palette, or evolving personal style anymore. For our pets that used that piece of furniture as a vantage point for watching the outdoors, or as a place to nap during the day or sleep at night, removal of that favored piece of furniture can be traumatizing, even if you replace it with a new sofa or chair in the same location. It doesn't look right, smell right, or feel right to them, much as that hotel bed, while nice, doesn't feel quite right to some travelers. I've known cats and dogs who will no longer sit on a sofa or chair because it's not “their” sofa or chair. Same goes for dog crates.

When we replace a dog crate, even one that is frayed, filthy, has a broken zipper, or no longer fits the dog it is meant to house, that is worrisome to the dog who previously called that crate home. The new crate could be the exact style, color, etc. of the previous one, but it's not going to feel the same to them. And if you, like my client, replace the old crate with a completely differently designed crate, despite being the same size and in the same location as the previous crate, your dog might resist and feel anxious about all of the changes. So, what can you do when you really need to replace your pet's sleeping space?

First off, recognize that it might not go according to plan with a quick acceptance of the new arrangement. Don't get rid of the old crate until you're sure that your dog will accept the new one. If possible, place the old crate, or part of it, inside the new crate. Don't wash the bedding from the old crate, but use it in the new space to increase the familiarity. You can wash it later once they've accepted the new space as home. You can even try placing the old crate facing the new crate and gradually make the old crate less appealing by moving the bedding to the new space and adding a spacer or block to make the old crate less inviting as it seems to be shrinking in size. If your dog still resists the new crate, try feeding them their meals solely in the new crate. Give them puzzles to solve in there as well. Treats should be given only for using the new crate; the longer they remain in the crate, additional rewards can come. All of this should be done without a door on the new accommodations. After they will willingly eat in the new crate, and wait there calmly for treats, you can begin experimenting with having the door on the crate but left open, and then build up to door on the crate and closed.

Finally, some dogs benefit from the use of DAP, dog appeasing pheromones, sprayed inside and around the new crate. These pheromones mimic the smell of a nursing mother dog. A couple of brands to consider are Adaptil (it's been the around the longest and is the best researched) and Zenidog, also a well-researched product.  Adaptil has the advantage of being available in a spray as well as a plug-in diffuser, while Zenidog doesn't have the spray, just the diffuser. Diffusers are great if the crate is located in a small space such as the corner of a room. If the crate is more centrally located in a room, or part of a much larger space, diffusers aren't going to be as useful as the spray that can be used directly in the crate's location.

It's also true that if your pet already has anxiety, whether that is separation anxiety, generalized anxiety, noise sensitivities, or some other issue related to anxiety, any changes you make to their world will likely take an adjustment period. How long that adjustment will be really depends on how your pet has coped with previous changes. If it took weeks for them to adapt to the new couch or they resisted a new diet for almost a month when you had to change their food, then it's likely that the new crate will take at least that long if not longer given the importance of that crate to their psychological well-being. We train our dogs to see their crates as their dens and safe-havens, a place to hole up when they are tired, to decompress when they are anxious, and to recharge when they are overwhelmed. If we are changing that space, we can absolutely expect some resistance. Hopefully, by making the change gradual, using the crate in crate method, when possible, utilizing old bedding, feeding and rewarding them there, you can eventually get your dog to accept their new accommodations, albeit begrudgingly at first. Definitely figure in extra time to make that adjustment if your pet has issues in anxiety already. This doesn't mean you should never change anything in your dog's world, or never make changes for an anxious pet. It simply means you need to be aware of how they will perceive those changes. Dogs are territorial, so changing their beds, couches, chairs, or crates takes an adjustment period. The more things stay the same, the easier those transitions can be, meaning if you can replace a worn bed with the exact same style, or replace the dirty, dilapidated crate with the same style, the more likely your dog will accept the change. When you change multiple things all at once, a new crate of a different style, for example, resistance by your dog is to be expected. Time to break out the good treats and start working on ways to make that new crate a positive for them just as the purchase was a positive for you.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

The perfect graphic from @max_the_mini_sheepadoodle on Instagram

Have Some Fun During Train Your Dog Month!

What began as National Train Your Dog Month back in 2010 has now become a global call to action as International Train Your Dog Month. Devoting the month of January to sharing information on positive, science-based, training practices, opportunities to enrich your dog's life, and best practices when seeking out classes and trainer support were the goals for the Association of Pet Dog Trainers back then and still are their goals today for the month of January and beyond. As you might have guessed, I have been an APDT member since the group began back in 1993 when it was started by Dr. Ian Dunbar, a veterinarian and behaviorist. 

For Train Your Dog Month 2026, I'd like to try something a bit different: I'd like to make this a combination of dog-focused New Year's resolutions through fun training options for them, adding in activities to build and enhance your bond. I completely support those of you taking your puppies and dogs to training classes and activities, but I know a lot of dog and puppy owners who aren't taking classes for one reason or another, who might like to have a concrete plan they can follow for the month of January to help establish good training practices with their dogs, with activities that are easy and fun to do.  I think that's really important because if you aren't enjoying this stuff, how in the world can we expect your dog to have a good time?  

Here's a sample training plan involving exercise, mental stimulation, and positive reinforcement for your dog. You can modify this plan based on their age and abilities meaning if you've got a puppy, you may need to shorten the walks and repeat the training sessions for them to have success.  If you've got a senior dog, you may again need to shorten walks and they may need easier training sessions as well to avoid getting over-tired, sore, or frustrated. 

Week 1 (that's what's left of this week!): 

Wednesday, Thursday, & Friday: Two 30 minute walks where the goal is to let them sniff and explore.  Use a long line instead of your regular leash so that they can freely explore while still safely being leashed. For these three days, feed them one of their meals in a puzzle, slow-feeder bowl, snuffle mat, or even just tossing the kibble out on the lawn for them to forage around and find. Finally, spend 3-5 minutes each day teaching them a new trick.  For example, if they already know "shake," teach them high 5, high 10, or wave.

Saturday & Sunday:  Still do those two walks, but make one of the walks an adventure.  Take them to the beach, a hiking trail, or even a local park they've not been to before.  Let them set the pace of the walks and make yourself live in the moment with them. For these two days, hand-feed one meal and then feed the other meal as you would regularly. Hand-feeding slows down the process and enhances your bond with your dog.  Have them do small, easy behaviors for you as you hand-feed them. For your 3-5 minutes of training each of these days, you will play a game with your dog.  You can hide from them and have them find you; you can hide a toy for them to find; you can set up a mock agility course in your family room using whatever is handy, tables and chairs, soccer cones, laundry baskets, etc.  Just move along with your dog, guiding them around, over, and under the obstacles.  Use treats and praise to keep them moving!

Week 2 (January 12-18):

Monday, Wednesday, and Friday add in a short, third walk midday, if possible. If you can't add in a third walk, just increase the length of one of their regular walks.  Feed both meals a day in puzzles, slow feeder bowls, etc. And for their 3-5 minutes of training, focus on teaching them a cooperative care exercise.  The most basic exercise involves teaching them to place their chin in your hand and hold their body steady.  For other ideas and information on cooperative care, visit my previous blog post on that topic here: 

https://juliebondanimalbehaviorist.blogspot.com/2022/02/teaching-cooperative-care-to-puppies.html

Tuesday & Thursday:  Carry a different, novel treat on your walks (you should always have treats, right?!) and surprise your dog with that new reward when they sit to cross the street, leave something alone on the ground, or simply make good eye contact with you when asked.  For your 3-5 minutes of training, teach one more cooperative care behavior.  If they've mastered chin, lay a wash cloth or small towel on your lap and have them place their chin on your lap, and hold, while you briefly touch their face and ears.

Saturday & Sunday:  An adventure walk one day and a playdate on the other, *if* your dog likes other dogs. If your dog doesn't like other dogs, or they don't have a best friend available for a playdate, you can be your dog's play partner.  Grab a flirt pole or their favorite toy and spend 10 minutes running around together.  For their meals, put half in their regular bowl and then have them work for the remaining half, showing off their tricks or favorite behaviors.  For your 3-5 minutes of training, work with them on stay.  If they've already got a solid stay, increase the difficulty level by putting them into the stay near an open doorway that you go through without them!  Break out their favorite treats for this exercise.

Week 3 (January 19-25):

This is your novelty week.  Each day you will do one new thing with your dog.  This could be a new place to walk or a new friend to walk with.  Maybe it means a new puzzle for mealtimes or a new snuffle mat or snuffle ball.  It could even mean a new chew for your dog, just be sure to choose a toy with an eye toward mental stimulation and jaw exercise like a Benebone wishbone, Honest Chew antler, or Red Barn bone. If you're having trouble finding the time for something new to do with your dog each day, just teach them a new trick, spending at least 3 minutes with them working on it.

Week 4 (January 26-31):

This is your dog's self care week!  Monday you will brush/comb/grooming mitt their body.  Keep an eye out for mats, burs, or itchy areas that may need extra care.  

Tuesday is for toes.  Clip their toenails, dremel their nails, or simply handle their feet if their nails don't need trimming or you can't work on their nails safely yourself.

Wednesday is teeth brushing day.  You'll need a dog toothbrush, soft bristled child's toothbrush, or finger brush along with pet-friendly toothpaste for this.  If you've never brushed your dog's teeth before, start with peanut butter or cream cheese on your finger and move around inside their mouth, letting them lick that finger as it moves around.  Work up to putting the peanut butter or cream cheese on the finger brush or their toothbrush and moving that around in their mouth.  Now you're ready for the dog toothpaste!  Note:  Don't use human toothpaste for your dog.  Since dogs don't spit out the toothpaste they have to have toothpaste formulated for pets that can be safely swallowed.

Thursday is "bath day."  This might mean an actual bath, but it could also mean running some pet grooming wipes over their body to freshen them up. Or, it could mean waterless shampoo and a towel dry.  Just give them a little pampering with an eye to making them smell great when it's all over.  Because most dogs don't like baths, be sure to include lots of treats and praise if you're getting them into a tub or shower for their pampering.

Friday is ear and eye check day.  Break out the pet wipes and wipe around your dog's eyes and inside their ears, keeping to the pinna area (the area away from the actual ear canal). If they've mastered the cooperative care behaviors (chin and/or chin on lap), have them do that for their eye and ear cleaning.

Saturday & Sunday:  Quiet time/meditation.  Sit on a pillow or yoga mat near your dog on the floor or their bed.  Breath deeply and sit quietly, letting your mind wander.  You can add in a few gentle strokes for your dog if you like (and if they enjoy that).  Remind them that they are very sweet, very good, and very loved. Quiet time with your dogs is as important as the physical and mental exercise you've been doing with them all month long!

I have to share a funny store with you.  The last time I did this quiet time/meditation exercise with Henley, he couldn't stop wagging his tail while we were doing the deep breathing.  That made me laugh, then he thunked his paws at me on the floor, which just made me laugh more.  He threw his head back, giving a couple happy "woos" and then ran off to bring me a toy, dropping it in my lap and ending the meditation on a decidedly playful note.  Ozzie, by contrast, fell asleep with his head on my leg during our quiet time together.  That brought me a lot of joy as well.

Let me know which of the exercises you and your dog enjoyed the most during the month of January and keep up the good work for the rest of 2026!  As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

I still had some homemade pupsicles in my freezer!  So, the big surprise enrichment opportunity for the dogs yesterday was pupsicles. Normally this is a summertime treat, so they were pretty excited.  Here's Zelly taking it slow and enjoying every bite.

A Catalyst for Conversations

I received a holiday card and thank you note from a veterinarian friend. In the note she said this about my weekly blog, "Thank you for always being a catalyst for good conversations on pets and their well-being." I love this!  She regularly shares my blog with her clients, both on her hospital's website and in their newsletter, which I appreciate.  The whole point of establishing my blog back in 2017 was to have an entertaining way to provide information on issues related to animal behavior through the sharing of stories and client journeys with their pets.  When COVID-19 hit, my blog provided a much needed communication outlet for me during a time when we were all shut indoors with our pets and feeling anxious.  I feel like many of you became regular readers of my blog at that time and for that, I am eternally grateful.

I plan to continue writing weekly about the pets I see in my practice, as well as my own beloved collies. I will continue to share stories that I hope entertain you as much as they educate you about the fascinating world of animal behavior. I really enjoyed sharing my memoir with you all this year and I am excited to share that my first children's book will be coming out sometime in 2026.  The illustrator is busily working on the whimsical art for the book which I think many of you will enjoy.  I don't want to give too much away ahead of time, but the book features the adventures of a smooth collie.  Given that I've shared my home with several of them, I feel pretty confident that I've captured their essence, brains, and beauty with the story.  Hopefully you will enjoy the book as much as I enjoyed creating it.  More details to come soon.

In the meantime, I hope you all have a very happy and healthy New Year ahead.  As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Hmm.  Wonder if the kid's book is about me?

Holiday Apple Pie for Dogs!

Every year since he was a little kid, my son has requested Dutch Apple Pie for dessert on Christmas Day. This has always been a big deal given the fact that he's never really liked sweets. On his first birthday when given cake, he wouldn't take more than one bite, so the fact that we discovered he loved my grandmother's Dutch Apple Pie recipe, means that it has become a holiday go-to for family dessert.  Now, you know I love sharing what I eat with my dogs, in moderation of course.  Dutch Apple Pie, however, is not dog friendly (too much sugar!), so I had to find something similar that was dog friendly and that I could quickly whip up for my dogs to enjoy for their holiday dessert.  Here's their favorite Holiday Apple Pie, collie tested, veterinarian approved:

Ingredients for pie crust:

1 & 3/4 cups oats

3/4 cup unsweetened applesauce

Ingredients for pie filling:

1 apple peeled, cored, and chopped (I use a Granny Smith as they are naturally lower in sugar, but you can use any apple you have on hand as long as you peel, core, and chop it)

1/4 cup unsweetened applesauce

Greek yogurt for "whipped topping"

Directions:

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.

Blend the oats into flour using a blender, food processor, or magic bullet blender.  Dump the ground oats into a bowl and add the applesauce, mixing them together with a rubber spatula (it's kind of sticky)  to create your pie crust.

Spread the pie crust into 4 mini silicon pie shells (these are reusable and easy to pop the pies out of for your dogs, but you can also use the mini aluminum or paper pie dishes if you have those on hand).

Bake the pie crusts for 10 minutes.

While the pie crusts bake, peel, core, and dice the apple and mix with the 1/4 cup of unsweetened applesauce.

Let the pie crusts cool briefly and then spoon in the filling and top with a dollop of Greek yogurt. Serve immediately!

I hope your dogs enjoy their pies as much as mine do.  Now it's time to make that Dutch Apple Pie as  my son will be home soon!

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

My kitchen assistants on baking day!