The Animal Behaviorist Is In
Musings, stories, and advice from a certified animal behaviorist
Wednesday, March 11, 2026
Something To Talk About
Wednesday, March 4, 2026
Puppy Love
I've got four clients right now who are preparing for the arrival of spring or early summer puppies. They've put down their deposits with the breeders they've chosen and are anxiously awaiting the arrival of their newest canine family members. I worked with each of them on the process as these four clients are unique: They all worked with me with a previous dog who had serious behavior problems rooted in anxiety and aggression. Each wanted to avoid ever having to go through that again, if they could help it. They told me how helpful they felt it was for me to break down the process for them, giving them guidelines for choosing a breeder, and then, for choosing their puppy. Because of that, I figured it was time to share that same information here, just in case you are gearing up for puppy fever too.
First, you certainly don't have to work with a breeder to acquire a puppy. I will say, however, that working with a reputable, knowledgeable breeder or fancier can make the puppy selection process a bit more reliable. When you instead choose to acquire a puppy at a shelter, rescue, or an online marketplace (e.g. Craig's List or a puppy broker), you are going to have a harder time getting any of the background information that you need on the dam and sire (i.e. the puppy's mom and dad), especially with regard to their physical and mental health. You also won't be able to check references and talk to other people who acquired a puppy from this same person. You will have to rely on the limited experiences noted by the shelter, foster, or Craig's List seller. And if you are using a puppy broker, you will find that the information you are given is even more limited because these folks just move puppies between puppy mills and prospective pet owners, despite their frequent protestations to the contrary.
How do you even find a reputable breeder? Sure, you can go on the AKC's website and research breeders, but remember that just being on that website doesn't insure that the puppies produced by that breeder are going to meet your needs. Instead, I encourage prospective puppy owners to talk to breeders in person at dog shows where you can see them with their dogs and then interact with them online via social media. So many breeders use Facebook and Instagram to show off their puppies, dogs, show results, and breeding programs. Interacting with them and their followers who are often previous or current owners of their dogs, allows you to see, follow, and ask questions of real owners of the breed (and breeder) you are interested in. Look for lots of transparency on their breeding program.
Let's get one thing straight: All puppies are cute. No question about that. So, you need to coach yourself to look beyond the cute and really analyze the way the puppies you are following on a breeder's account are being raised. Even before the puppies are born, you want to look at the dam and sire and see how they themselves are being raised and engaged. Are they always shown running around outside in a pen with a bunch of other dogs, or are they also shown camped out in the kitchen or on a bed, sofa, or someone's lap? Are they only shown at dog shows, or are they also shown running agility, competing in flyball, or doing nosework? How many litters has the breeder produced? How often are they breeding their dog(s)? All of this is just as important to the puppy choosing process. You want your puppy's parents to have been cherished members of your breeder's family, not money-making, puppy-producing machines. You want to feel comfortable knowing that your puppy's mama was fed properly while pregnant, protected from stress and strain, and regularly evaluated by a veterinary professional. Puppies born to stressed out moms come into this world already challenged behaviorally. Puppies born to well-adjusted, happy, and physically sound mothers come into this world with brains that are pliable and open, not already challenged with stress hormones.
Once you've found a breeder that you are comfortable with, and you like the way that they raise and care for their adult dogs, it's time for you to look at the way that they prepare their puppies to go to their new homes. I seek out breeders who use the "Puppy Culture" approach to raising puppies. This approach focuses on the science behind socialization and training. It fosters emotional resiliency and brain development. It encourages puppies to reach their full potential from birth to 12 weeks of age through appropriate behavioral challenges and physical challenges. Even newborn puppies should be handled, stimulated, and exposed to new experiences. This program also includes exercises that prepare puppies for house training, crate training, and checks for resource guarding. Puppies who complete Puppy Culture programs are inquisitive, resilient, and well-prepared for that move from their breeder's home to yours. You really do need to critically expand the way you think about puppy raising beyond just "my puppy was lovingly raised in the breeder's home" to "my puppy was raised to be confident, curious, and successful in their loving breeder's home."
Finally, when you get to the point where you are going to the breeder's home to choose your puppy (and, yes, I think you need to go to their home and choose your puppy), you will likely be one of several people there to pick out their next canine family member. Breeders often have their list of prospective puppy owners, those in line for female puppies, those in line for male puppies, and/or those in line for either sex, but with more concerns about coat color, for example, or temperament. I'm always going to advise you not to choose your puppy based on their coat color or sex, but rather to look at their temperament and the way they engage you when you meet them. And if you want to do a bit of temperament testing of those puppies on your own, especially if your breeder doesn't use the Puppy Culture program, then please revisit one of my previous blog posts on the subject of temperament testing for prospective puppy owners here:
https://juliebondanimalbehaviorist.blogspot.com/2021/06/pick-of-litter.html
While I'm not currently in the market for a new puppy myself, I am closely following a litter of collies that is due this month. The dam and sire of this litter are actually Zelly's parents, so these pups will be full siblings to my daughter's sweet, adolescent collie. I can't wait to see these puppies develop and watch them thrive in those first weeks under the watchful eye of my friend and her pack of sweet, well-adjusted adult collies, including Zelly's grandmother. If I'm lucky, I'll get a chance to visit with my friend before these puppies go off to their new homes. That puppy fix should last me until I'm ready for my next collie puppy of my own, right?
As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.
Wednesday, February 25, 2026
Quality Over Quantity
Wednesday, February 18, 2026
All My Friends Are Dogs...
Wednesday, February 11, 2026
How Many Dogs Is Too Many?
When I was a kid, I wanted a dog so badly that I badgered my parents daily (not kidding) until they finally relented when I was seven years old. Figuring I was on a roll, I did ask for a second dog and my parents shot that down emphatically, saying that when I was a grownup I could have “as many dogs as I wanted.” I took them at their word and got my first dog all of my own while still in college and just kept adding from there. That first dog was the gateway drug, so to speak, to a life devoted to dogs, my own and other people's.
I've had as few as just one dog, and as many as four dogs, at a time in my home. We had four dogs when the kids were little and I probably should have had my head examined to have that many creatures depending on me for their care and keeping, LOL. For me, the sweet spot is two to three dogs, with one being a senior. Seniors seem to be rejuvenated with the activity and antics of younger dogs and having two younger dogs means having someone to play with when the human (invariably) is busy working or tending to the senior dog. I have friends with four or more dogs and I'm amazed at how not chaotic their homes are. I'm pretty sure that having four or more dogs would be chaos for me, but that's the point. Only you can decide how many dogs is right for you. Beyond the obvious pathology of people who hoard dogs (or cats), having a lot of animals to care for is a personal choice. You are the only person who knows what your capacity is for their care and keeping; the health and welfare of a lot of animals isn't cheap, that's for sure. But there is some science to support that less may be more. You knew I was going to bring in science, right?
Whether you will have harmony in your multi-dog home or chaos really depends on a couple of factors. The most important being, how sociable are your dogs? While dogs as a species are sociable, there are individual differences in that sociability. Some dogs are total social butterflies, flitting from dog to dog at the dog park or dog daycare, making new friends right and left. At the other end of the spectrum are dogs who are afraid or behave aggressively when they encounter another dog, whether that other dog is encountered on a walk, or at home. Then, of course, there are all of the dogs in between, those that enjoy the company of other dogs, but can self-regulate, moving away from interactions when they need a break. I think the best dogs to have in a multi-dog household are those dogs in between social butterfly and complete introvert. Basically, dogs who like other dogs, know how to share resources, and are able to set up good boundaries when they need space or time to themselves. And science does support this. Dogs who have social anxiety or who suffer from issues in aggression do not thrive in multi-dog households; they do better in homes where they are the only dog.
Don't get me wrong. Even in homes where the dogs do all get along with each other most of the time, there will still be skirmishes, small tiffs, and hurt feelings. That's normal. We don't always see eye to eye with our human family members either. My kids sure showed me what that looked like. As an only child whose sole “sibling” was that dog mentioned above, my kids had each other, for better or for worse. They got along for the most part, but every one in a while the fur would fly, demonstrating that siblings do have each other to wallop on as well. The same goes for dogs in multi-dog homes. They will, on occasion, growl, bark, snap, or even grab a canine housemate they think needs correcting. Oftentimes, this will be an older dog correcting a younger dog or puppy, but you will also see confrontations between similarly aged dogs. Oftentimes, these confrontations are over resources. Who is on the dog bed, and who wants that spot. Who has the bone, chew, or toy. Who is currently being petted by the human, and so on. Expect some grumbling in a multi-dog household and don't insert yourself in the drama; let your dogs sort it out on their own. If we insert ourselves too much, we end up causing more problems than we fix. My rule of thumb is no blood drawn, no one getting hurt? Let them solve it themselves. If it gets loud and doesn't seem to be resolving quickly, I might see if I can redirect them, or tell them to take it outside, at which point my dogs seem happy to move on. I know that's not the case in every home, but I'm grateful that it works in mine.
It's also important to remember that our own behavior affects the behavior we see in our dogs. For example, if you are petting one of your dogs and another approaches for attention too, resist the urge to pet them both. Just because you have two hands doesn't mean you should split your attention! Keep petting that first dog and don't allow another to usurp that attention. When you are done petting that first one, move on to whoever you want to pet next. It should never be the case that the pushiest, most obnoxious attention hog gets all of the attention. Make them wait. Tell them to sit or go lay down. Honestly...make them wait their turn. This takes the pressure off of the other dogs as they see that you have the dynamic under control, no need to snap at the dog trying to shove their way in when the human has the situation covered.
I think one of the hardest things to do is to make sure you are spending enough one-on-one time with each of your dogs in a multi-dog home. Yes, it's quality over quantity, but there are only so many hours in the day and you do need time for yourself as well. I walk my dogs together most days as that's what I have time for. I do wish I could walk each of them separately for the simple reason that when I do, they seem so happy to have been on a solo walk with me. So how do I give them one-on-one time? Well, Ozzie needs to do multiple sessions a day on his t-PEMF mat for his spine and joints. When he's on his mat, I put up a gate to that room so that Henley (and Zelly, if she's visiting) can see what we are doing, but have to remain at a distance. This allows Ozzie to fully relax on the mat, gaining all of the benefits t-PEMF therapy has to offer. I sit on the floor next to him so that he knows I'm there; I remind him by petting him gently. This is our quiet time together and I think he looks forward to it at much as I do. Henley is an active dog. His joy comes from playing games and learning new things, so I play fetch with him and tug-of-war, his two favorite games. I also work with him every day on tricks he knows and new ones I think up. He loves this. We do this when Ozzie is outside resting in the yard or sound asleep in another room. If Zelly is visiting, I put her in her crate with a bone or chew where she can watch and keep busy, but not insert herself. And when Zelly is here with me, she gets one-on-one time as well. I'll crate Henley with a bone, put Ozzie outside with his chew, and then work with her on tricks and new behaviors with a focus on teaching her self-control and calm execution of tasks. Ideal activities for a busy adolescent collie!
Now, you've probably figured out why I set a limit of less is more for myself when it comes to dog ownership! I just don't have enough hours in the day for more than this. At least not right now. I'm leaving my options open though. My parents did say I could have as many dogs as I wanted when I was a grownup. I figure I'll be a grownup soon.
As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.
Wednesday, February 4, 2026
Revisiting Resource Guarding One More Time
Wednesday, January 28, 2026
My Puppy Is Driving Me Crazy!
That's literally the message a new client left in my voicemail. When I called her back, I could hear a puppy yapping away in the background of our call. Apparently he does that anytime she doesn't pay attention to him. He also hates the leash, hates the harness, won't go into his crate willingly, cries if she leaves the room for two minutes, and won't let her bathe him (he stepped in his own poop, then laid in it, requiring a bath which ended up in a bath for the owner too!). She indicated that she didn't even try to trim his nails. She half-jokingly told me she'd leave all future baths, nail trims, etc. to a groomer to "deal with him." Clearly, time for an intervention!
Just because they are puppies doesn't mean that they will automatically comply with everything you want them to do. In fact, puppies often need a bit of extra time to find their own way around anything new, particularly anything that they think might be scary. Even when handed a new toy or new bone, a puppy may gladly take the item, then drop it and sniff it, before picking it up again and trying it out. I can safely say that I've never met a puppy who loved a collar, harness, or leash the first time they were introduced. Henley tried to alligator roll his way out of his harness the first time he actually wore it and acted as if the leash attached to it was cramping his style. Collars, harnesses, and leashes are used for safety reasons by us, but feel unnatural to a puppy; they limit their mobility and exploration. You have to introduce them slowly, pairing with good stuff like food and toys they love. Because collars and harnesses need to be fitted properly, requiring that you take them on and off several times, I like to use a lick mat with either baby food or canned puppy food on it. I use a lick mat that suctions to a metal surface and attach it to my fridge or dishwasher at head height and encourage licking it while I work through the process of fitting the collar or harness to a wiggly puppy. When it comes time for the leash, I always use an old, inexpensive one that I don't mind the puppy chewing on since I let them drag it around the house, attached to their collar or harness, while I supervise by tossing treats for them to find. By letting them drag the leash, they learn that leashes aren't as limiting as they first thought. Once they will freely drag a leash around, I pick it up and follow them wherever they go so there's very little tension on that leash. Then, I move on to using treats to lure them to walk near me indoors long before we move outside. Yes, it's tedious but it allows the puppy to be an active participant in their own training.
The same goes for training a puppy to enjoy their crate. Feed them in it, give them bones there, use puzzles in the crate, and sit by the crate yourself, reading a book, working on your computer, etc. Get your puppy used to a crate with an open door and good things inside before you ever close the door. Build up how long they can be in there with the door closed and you nearby before you try leaving the room. Remember that for most puppies, arriving at your house and joining your family is their first time alone and away from their mother and siblings. Going from sleeping with other familiar dogs to sleeping by yourself is a big step and one that takes a moment for a lot of the puppies I meet.
Baths and nail trims: Those are often rough regardless of the age of your dog. But, again, it's about counter-conditioning and desensitization. Start with getting your puppy used to the sound of running water. Have them in the bathroom with you when the water is running and offer them treats. Build up to having them stand in a dry tub and lick a lick mat. Next, have them stand in a tub with water in it. Now, turn on the water while they are standing in water. You can use a cup to pour water on their body, but try a wash cloth for their face, neck, and bottom. Don't scrub! Gently rub and handle them all over. Same goes for drying them off; dry them off gently with a pre-warmed towel, don't roughly buff them like they are a car! While you may be tempted to do ears and nails on bath day, resist the urge! A bath is enough stimulation for one day for a puppy. Save the ears for a different day and the nails for a separate day from that. I've reviewed how to desensitize your puppy to ear cleaning and nail trimming before in my blog post on cooperative care. Here's a link, just in case you need a refresher:
https://juliebondanimalbehaviorist.blogspot.com/2022/02/teaching-cooperative-care-to-puppies.html
I know it's tempting to just leave the grooming (baths, ear cleaning, and nail trimming) to the professionals, but resist the temptation. Even if you intend to use a groomer for most of your dog's care, you will still need to be able to do some of this at home. Dogs step in things, roll in things, get skunked, get eye infections and ear infections, tear nails, and get food (or vomit!) on their faces. You will need to be able to spot clean your dog at a minimum, and be able to give them a full bath when necessary. Even if you never trim all of their nails yourself, you need to be able to handle their feet if they step on or in something. Do the work. Break the task into smaller steps. Have treats. Take frequent breaks. Don't get frustrated. Ask for help when you need it!
I actually had an in-person appointment with the client mentioned above and her ten week old puppy. He and I hit it off right away so I started working with him around his crate since that was still a hurdle for this owner. I had her walk away and leave us to it so I could see if he'd allow her to leave the room if he had me there. Not only was he fine when she left, he never even glanced her way, which cracked me up. I tossed treats in the crate, opened and closed the door, played with him with a flirt pole I'd brought along, and then put him in the crate with a yak chew I'd also brought to this appointment. I shut the door and told him I'd be right back and I walked out of the room. I immediately came back and he didn't even glance my way, he was quite focused on the chew. I came out to talk to the owner and she was flabbergasted that he wasn't barking or whining! We went back to the crate together and he looked up from the chew, and then went right back at it. I opened the crate door and he came out with the chew in his mouth. I traded a treat for the chew as now we had a reward we could use to get him to readily crate on his own. Now, he'll only get those yummy yak chews when he's in his crate, further reinforcing how great they are to him.
Raising a puppy takes an infinite amount of patience. And truly, puppies aren't for everyone. Remember, however, that any new dog you acquire, regardless of the age of the dog, will require some desensitization and counter-conditioning. How much will depend on what they've already been trained to do and how positive those experiences were for them. If your adult dog is terrified of baths, for example, you may have to do those same exercises above to change his point of view. It's worth it to do so. Honest!
As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.




