The Importance of Good Balance & Core Strength in Dogs

So, how many of you have done the SRT test (the Sitting-Rising Test) for yourself?  You begin with ten points and your overall score decreases with each assist you need to sit down on the floor or get back up once seated. It's a test that doctors, physical therapists, etc. use to assess mobility and longevity in people, particularly older people.  While there isn't the exact same test for older dogs, most veterinarians do some similar measures on senior dogs during their wellness exams to assess balance and core strength and get ahead of any mobility challenges.  There's so much more we can do for our dogs beyond daily walks to help them build and maintain their core strength and continue to have good balance as they get older. If you start with these exercises for your young adult dog, that is a dog who is out of puppyhood with full bone development, it means you will have measurements of their mobility to compare to as they age.  A lot of these exercises can be done using things you find in nature or at the park, but you can also use your own gym equipment at home for many of them.  Here are some examples:

For Good Balance and Core Strength:  Begin by having your dog walk along a curb on leash. You can use a treat to keep your dog walking in a straight line, eyes on the treat at nose level, not looking down at their feet.  If they can do this easily, repeat the exercise having them walk on a plank on the ground.  If this is easy, lift the plank up off the ground, supported by cement blocks and have them walk across again, keeping their head up, following the treat.  We aren't looking for speed here but a steady, confident pace, no jumping off the plank.  You can also observe them walking across one of those moving bridges on a kids' playground or jumping from rock to rock as they move along on a hike. Next, position your dog at the start of a hallway.  Standing in front of your dog, step toward them slowly so that they take a step backwards.  Use a treat so that they stay focused on you as they back up, versus turning away from you and moving away facing forward. Do they back up in a straight line or do they veer to one side or the other?  If you have a BOSU balance trainer in your home gym, that works really well too.  Place the BOSU trainer with the flat base down and have your dog step up onto it with their front feet and stay in place.  Use a treat as a lure and hold onto the treat until you let them back off the dome.  Work up to all four feet on the dome, and then have them back up so that just their rear feet are on the dome.  Once they can do this with the flat side down, flip the BOSU over so it wobbles and try the exercises again.  If you have yoga blocks, you can also do balance exercises using those, you just won't be able to do the wobble version. 

Stretching and Mobility Assessment: Have your dog sit in front of you on a non-slippery surface. Step away from your dog backwards and lure them into a standing position, noting how difficult it is for them to rise from a sit to a stand.  Many senior dogs have difficulty with this exercise and it takes a couple of tries, and a bit of scooting, before they can get enough momentum going to rise up from the sit.  You can also have them lay in the down position and measure the effort needed to come up to a sit and then to a standing position.  With your dog standing at your side, use a treat to slowly have them stretch their neck to reach the treat, not moving their feet.  Next, slowly move the treat downward, encouraging them to follow the treat down, again stretching their neck, without laying down. Move the treat slowly toward one side so your dog keeps their neck level and brings their head around following that treat.  Move the treat back to center and then around to the other side slowly.  You are measuring how much flexibility they have in their neck with this exercise. Use a treat to lure your dog to turn in a circle, first one direction and then the other way. It's perfectly normal for an adult dog to only be able to easily turn one direction, but they should be able to turn a tight circle without tipping, tripping over their feet, or flopping into a down.

Finally, if you have access to a pool, you can help your dog gain mobility and core strength with swimming.  Be sure to use a dog life vest on them regardless of their swimming abilities.  That vest will help you to guide your dog along using the handle on their back.  You will want to hold them in place so that they are paddling but not moving anywhere, helping to create resistance. Next, hold that handle and let them paddle forward and then guide them to paddle in a circular motion.  If you have long enough stairs in your pool, you can have your dog walk back and forth, slowly, following a treat, so that they are moving through the water, creating resistance and building their muscle tone.

So, why am I suggesting you do this now with your young, spry, healthy dogs?  Because some day, they will be senior dogs and you want them to have the best chance at a comfortable and safe life as they navigate the aging process. Helping them with their mobility strength now means a stronger core and better mobility later in life.  

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

While mental exercise is important too for all ages of dogs, none more so than our senior dogs.  Here's Ozzie resting on his puzzle after solving it.  At 11.5 years old, Ozzie has slowed down quite a bit.  He has arthritis and spondylosis, two conditions that have led me to use a PEMF mat for him three times a day, helping reduce inflammation in his body. He also completes the exercises outlined above to the best of his abilities, though we don't have a pool, so no swimming for this sweet, old guy.

Big Dogs, Small Dogs & Every Dog In Between

Last week, a client asked me if I would write a reference letter for her dog.  At first, I thought she was teasing me, but then I realized how serious she was.  She was moving into a new condominium and the HOA required reference letters from two "pet professionals" for each pet belonging to a new, prospective resident.  Wow!  She'd gotten a letter from her veterinarian and was hoping I'd write one for her sweet dog too.  I had interacted with her dog on numerous occasions in classes and seminars over the years, so I didn't hesitate to write a glowing recommendation for her pup.  He's house-trained, sociable with people and other animals, doesn't bark excessively, and he walks nicely on a leash.  I told her she should include a copy of his CGC, Canine Good Citizen certificate, with the reference letters as well.  As she and I talked more about this reference request, some other interesting, and a bit disturbing, pet-related policies came to light that I thought I'd share with you. 

She told me that she'd been turned away from several upscale apartment homes, townhomes, and another condominium complex because her dog weighed over 20 pounds.  This one really irritated me.  First of all, do you want to know how many under 20 pound dogs I know whose owners have never completely house-trained them?  Meaning, they still have regular accidents in the house.  If you are concerned about property damage and that's why you are discriminating against big dogs, you really need to examine the amount of damage urine and feces can do to flooring!  Plus, some of the barkiest, least sociable dogs I know are the under 20 pounds set.  Many of us jokingly refer to this as the dogs having a "Napoleon complex," but it's true. In my opinion, apartment managers, property managers, and landlords should consider each pet on an individual basis.  Meet with the pet owner and the pet and then decide based on the behavior you see, not on some preconceived notion about them.  If it's a dog, go ahead and require a CGC certificate be submitted, or proof of obedience class attendance.  Definitely ask for references, but meet the pets yourself.  Sure, it takes a bit more time, but just have the pet come with the prospective tenant to the walk through interview.  

Now, I'm sure, I'm going to get a message from someone who reads my blog and actually is a property manager or landlord telling me that they aren't qualified to judge a pet's behavior and frankly, that's a cop-out.  Sure, you may not be a pet professional, but you know what a well-mannered dog looks like.  Well-behaved dogs come in all shapes, sizes, and breeds.  Not all Rottweilers are menaces, not all German Shepherds are barky, and not all Terriers are destructive.  Sure, some of them are, but you can figure this out when you meet them. And you should definitely meet those under 20 pounds dogs in person before having their human sign on the dotted line.  Just watch your ankles!

In all seriousness:  Dogs of any size can have behavior problems.  Whether a dog (or cat) has a behavior problem will depend much more on their genetics and upbringing than on their physical size or shape.  I would think the most important factors for property managers should be the sociability of the pet, whether they are house-trained, whether they are destructive, how loud are they, and can they be walked in common areas without issue.  I also think it's wise to have the new resident sign off that they will pick up behind their dogs when toileting outside in common areas, and have a consequence such as a fine for those dog owners who don't do it.  It's only fair!

We all know (or should know) that property managers cannot discriminate against a pet owner who has a legitimate service animal or emotional support animal seeking housing, regardless of the size of the animal.  And it is absolutely okay to ask what service the animal provides the owner and ask for proof of training and certification for those with emotional support animals. 

Story time!  Years ago, I was looking for a small house to move into near the beach in San Diego.  I had a medium-sized dog at that time (Shadow weighed 43 pounds), as well as my completely indoor cat, Katmandu.  None of the places I'd seen listed allowed dogs, or if they did, once again, the dogs had to be small in size.  So, what did I do?  I scheduled a walk through at a house I was really interested in and I brought my dog and my cat with me.  As I approached the house, the landlord was standing on the porch.  I came up the walkway, dog on a leash at my side, cat on a leash and draped around my neck.  I asked Shadow to sit and stay and asked if we could take a look inside?  He said sure, though he was clearly still trying to figure out if the cat was real!  As we entered the house, Shadow remained calmly on the porch in her sit/stay.  By the time we'd gotten to the kitchen, the landlord indicated that he thought that she should come inside too.  I called her and she calmly walked into the house and sat next to me, tail wagging. He asked if he could pet her and I told her to go say hi, which she happily did. No jumping up, no exuberance, no problem.  He then asked if he could meet the cat!  I put Katmandu on the ground and he sat there on leash, waiting to be called over.  When the landlord bent down, Katmandu approached him, rubbing against his legs and trying to bump his head on the guy's hand.  He'd never seen such well-behaved animals, he told me. He also told me I put his own pets to shame!  Needless to say, we got the place AND when we moved out two years later, he offered to write me a tenant reference letter if I ever needed one in the future. I'm pretty sure that going forward with that rental property, he knew to judge the pets and their owners by their behavior, not by the size of the animals on paper.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Of course, my daughter had heard that story about Shadow and Katmandu, so she planned accordingly when she went to meet the landlord of a house in Los Angeles that she was very interested in renting. It was in a great neighborhood, close to the UCLA campus where she was in law school, with a nice backyard for Westley.  There would be lots of competition, so she was going to need Westley to not just show off what a great dog he was, but how his mom should be the one chosen for this place. He showed up in a bow tie and the deal was sealed. How could anyone resist?

The 4th of July: A Postscript

I used to really enjoy the 4th of July.  As a kid, it meant swim parties, hot dogs, and staying up late to watch fireworks.  Our family dog, Tosh, didn't care about fireworks at all, so we could be home or gone, he was always just fine either way.  As a grad student, I had Shadow, my border collie mix.  She, like Tosh, wasn't fazed by fireworks. In fact, she seemed to be fascinated by them!  I took her with me to the big, town fireworks display provided every year at a city park by the Davis Fire Department.  She would sit or lay on my picnic blanket, surrounded by college kids and snacks, and watch the proceedings.  It seemed I was on a roll as the next few dogs also didn't care about fireworks.  All of that changed, however, when Desi became a senior dog.

While Desi was unfazed by fireworks for the first several years we had him, he became agitated with the fireworks, pacing and panting the year he turned ten.  From then on, he'd need to be inside with fans going, the A/C on, the TV on, and people there to comfort him when needed. Ozzie seemed more worried about Desi than he did about the fireworks, so I figured he was okay.  Funny thing though...Ozzie was fine until he turned ten, and lo and behold, the fireworks bothered him as well.  As his hearing diminished, it seemed his agitation grew with the booming feelings he felt inside of his body, more than the sounds or lights. While he'd watch with interest the lights from the fireworks you can see from my yard, the booming vibrations that seemed to fill the air after some of the stronger ones, really upset him, causing him to pace and pant, just like Desi.  Henley who had never been bothered by them was suddenly hyper-vigilant about them too, coming to get me as soon as my neighbors started setting them off in mid-June, and becoming fixated on looking and listening for them every evening as the 4th of July became imminent. 

The year Ozzie turned ten, I researched ear protection for dogs as his behavior after the fireworks on New Year's Eve was enough to make me want to do something preemptively before July rolled around.  Why ear protection if his hearing was going?  Because I knew he heard some things and I knew I could control what he saw by keeping him indoors with the blinds closed.  All that would be left was waiting to see if removing what he saw and heard was enough to overcome what he felt if there were visceral level "booms."  I figured getting Henley used to wearing ear protection now was a good idea as well since it seems my run of "my dogs don't care one way or the other about fireworks" was over.

I spent a bit of time every day for several weeks, putting the noise canceling headphones on Ozzie and Henley, pairing wearing them with high value treats and praise.  It didn't take long for them to acclimate to the headphones, with both dogs just falling asleep while wearing them.  I knew that the headphones really worked when I opened up food containers in the kitchen nearby and neither dog came to investigate!  What they couldn't see (they were in the other room) and couldn't hear, wasn't happening.  Success!  By the time the 4th of July rolled around that year, both dogs had been wearing their headphones in the evening for a couple of weeks.  If I kept the boys inside with the blinds closed and their headphones on, they were fine, sleeping the festivities away on their beds.  That was until this year's 250th celebration.

This year, the fireworks were of the sonic-boom variety, going off for several hours from before it got dark until well past 2 a.m.  While I can appreciate that my community wanted to celebrate, the air was filled with smoke and many dogs in my neighborhood were clearly agitated based on the barking and howling, not to mention my neighbor who is a veteran of the Iraq war. He told me the next day that his PTSD was off the charts and I felt awful for him.  When he bent down to hug Ozzie and tell him he knew how he felt, my heart broke into a million pieces.  I know my dogs and my neighbor aren't the only ones who suffer and that makes this a big deal.  We need community education beyond the obvious "fireworks are illegal in Contra Costa County" signs and messages.  A move on a bigger level to drone displays would go a long way to change people's minds about fireworks.  A move to drones would also mean less haze and air pollution and reduce fire risk in our already compromised state where fire season never really ends.  I've seen drone shows and think they are spectacular.  Let's all hope that they are the wave of the future.

As always, if you questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Here's Henley on the 4th of July relaxing on a dog bed while fireworks are going off outside.  He kept them on all night, even when he hunkered down in his crate in my bedroom to sleep. It's sad that he has to wear them, but a relief that it works for him nonetheless.

Hello My Name Is...

Did you start singing when you read the title of this week's blog post?  When I was thinking about this week's blog topic, that song popped into my head and then it just stuck there!

When you are naming your dog, there are a couple of good rules to keep in mind.  Two syllable names are often the best choice as they allow you, the human, to change the pitch of your voice when addressing your dog, which can help grab your dog's attention and let them know your intent.  What type of inflection you use lets your dog know if you are happy with them, displeased, etc.  While a lot of dog owners will opt for one syllable names, these often become two syllable nicknames in the long run because, again, two syllable names allow for those pitch changes that one syllable names do not. So, what are one syllable names good for? They are good for grabbing attention in situations where there are a lot of distractions.  And for those folks choosing longer, multi-syllable names for their dogs, you just need to know that you will likely be shortening said name or going with a nickname anyway.  And you know what?  Dogs are good with that too!  Most of us use nicknames for our dogs and it doesn't confuse them or keep them from responding. It's just one more amazing attribute of dogs.

Last week, I heard from a new puppy owner who was concerned that perhaps his name choice for the new dog would be confusing given how the name sounded like the word, "no."  I once had a client whose dog came with the name "Jess" and she had similar concerns since Jess sounds like "yes."  The bottom line?  It really doesn't matter as dogs use context with our verbal cues; they use our body language, including facial expressions, as much as, if not more than, the actual words we say.  So, while the name "Beau" sounds like "no," for example, your dog isn't going to get confused if you give them a stern "NO!"  I will say, however, that if you want to avoid sounding like Dr. Seuss when talking to your dog, you might want to steer clear of the one syllable names that sound a lot like commands you might give your dog. "Hey! Kit Sit," being a good example! 

I think the bigger take home message with this one is that you really want to think more about how you use "no" and "yes." Overuse of either can dilute the value.  Plus, you also run the risk of not giving your dog enough context to understand what they did that you liked or didn't like.  The word "no" in and of itself lacks information. Sure, if you yell it at your dog, they're likely to stop what they are doing momentarily, but truthfully? You could yell "Rot!" and they'd stop momentarily for that as well, because they'd be responding to the tone of your voice more so than the word itself.  So, rather than saying "No!" tell your dog what they should be doing instead.  For example, if your puppy has grabbed your new running shoe, don't just tell her "NO!"  Instead, tell her to "drop it!" and then trade her your shoe for a toy or bone instead.  Basically, don't chew my shoes, chew on your own stuff. I prefer "leave it!" and "drop it" to a generic "no" every time.  Now, if your dog bolts the front door and is heading for a busy street, then definitely yell "NO!"  If you don't overuse that word, they will absolutely stop dead in their tracks, just long enough for you to collect them before they head into harm's way.

I love the process of coming up with names for my dogs.  I like to think about their personality traits and about my goals or aspirations for them.  I always joke that people who name their pets after questionably behaved characters in literature or movies often end up with adult animals who live up to their names. Any of you remember the movie, "Gremlins?" The cute, little creature in that movie was named "Gizmo." Funny thing though: If you got him wet, exposed him to bright lights, or fed him after midnight, he changed into something less than cute and cuddly, wreaking havoc and leaving destruction in his wake.  I had a client who named her Shih Tzu puppy "Gizmo" because he looked just like the sweet movie character.  Funny thing though.  When he tore up her couch, managed to rip down the curtains, and took a chunk out of an antique table leg, he resembled a gremlin more than she would have liked!  

Share the story of how your dog got their name, and as always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Here is sweet Westley, "Midnight's As You Wish," named after the iconic prince in the movie, "The Princess Bride," one of my daughter's favorites.  Westley absolutely lived up to his name with behavior and characteristics befitting his namesake: He was kind, chivalrous, and always a gentleman. He loved fiercely, was loyal to a fault, and was reliable and steady. Aptly named indeed.

Wedding Season!

Whether you are planning a wedding or getting ready for some other type of big celebration like a birthday party or graduation get-together, you may be trying to figure out if you should include your dog in the festivities or not. Whether that means as a participant wearing a bow tie or ribbon and walking down the aisle with a basket of flowers or carrying the rings at your wedding, or simply as a guest hanging out with the other invited guests, should be predicated on how well your dog does with following directions and with how much they like being included in potentially chaotic situations. There's nothing like a festive family gathering to potentially stress out your dog (and you!). Obviously, big parties and social events are not for every dog.  Many folks opt to leave their dogs with sitters or at boarding facilities when they have major family commitments, while others will want to include their dogs because they are viewed as truly important family members.  Either way, if you are considering having your dog join you for any major event, let's talk about how to prepare them so that they can be as successful as possible.  

First, be honest with yourself. If your main reason for including your dog in your big event is the cute photo op for Instagram, then you're likely going to be disappointed. Dogs, much like children, are best captured in photos where they are permitted to be themselves. The best wedding photos I've ever seen that included the dog were the ones where the dog fell asleep under a table at the reception, or was caught napping on the bride's train.  Those are 100% things dogs do! Posing, facing the camera, sitting up straight for a group picture is not something most dogs will do.  At least not repeatedly with a professional photographer staring in their face. If your dog doesn't really like loud noises like clapping and cheering, unfamiliar people staring at them or petting them, and isn't trustworthy not to lift a leg on a guest's chair, sample food from the buffet, or jump on a party guest, then they probably should sit out your big event.  You don't want the main thing folks remember about your big day to be "that crazy dog they insisted upon including!"

It's one thing to have your dog be an attendee at a big event and it's quite another to have them participate.  As a simple attendee, your dog has more freedom of movement than if they are actually expected to participate.  For example, if your dog will be walking with you down the aisle:  Will they be on leash or off leash?  Walking on your left or your right?  Will they be wearing something like a tie or ribbon?  Are they supposed to carry something in their mouth or around their neck?  Each of these behaviors requires training, repetition, and of course big rewards! Plus, you need to be prepared to improvise just in case they decide not to comply when the big day arrives.  And even if your dog loves wearing a bow tie and can easily walk with you leash or not down the aisle, what about after that?  Are they able to sit or lay quietly through the rest of the ceremony?  Will they also be attending the reception?  Because if they are, you'll need to work with them on appropriate party behavior: No table surfing, no begging for food, no running, no barking, and no rambunctious play.  And if your dog is sensitive to loud noises, again, they may need to sit out the dancing and music in favor of a quiet place away from the noise to rest.  You can certainly train a dog not to table surf or beg for snacks, but you can't really change the way they view loud music and rowdy dancing.

My own dogs have attended many birthday parties and graduation celebrations over the years.  I allow them to participate as much or as little as they choose to, meaning they always have an exit if the party gets too loud or there are too many people for their comfort.  The last graduation party we had at our house, Westley and Desi were still alive. Westley chose to participate in the entire proceedings, following my daughter around, engaging with guests, and doing tricks for treats.  Ozzie participated for a short period of time, visiting with people he knew, checking to make sure the gate was closed, and noshing on ice cubes from the barrel filled with cool drinks, before retiring to a room inside away from the celebration.  Desi, although generally a social butterfly, chose to say hi when guests arrived, but then retreated indoors to nap away from the festivities and that was fine too.  I didn't push my dogs and they behaved as I expected them to.  They made it into quite a few candid photos, but I didn't ask them to pose for the less than candid pictures. By all accounts the event was a success.

As many of you know, my daughter is getting married next year and several of you have asked if her dog, Zelly, will be a flower girl or otherwise participate in the proceedings. Here's the answer:  Zelly will not be participating, nor will she be attending, and not because she isn't the sweetest girl, or because she doesn't love people and parties, because she does!  She isn't being included because having her there would be unnecessarily distracting for my daughter.  She would worry about Zelly's safety because their event space has streams, narrow bridges, and occasional wildlife nearby.  Zelly participated actively in the surprise proposal, but she will be sitting out the wedding with a trusted housesitter, in the company of Ozzie and Henley.  She won't feel like she's missing anything and I'll know my daughter isn't worrying about her safety.  That's a win for everybody.  In the meantime, I'm teaching Zelly to pick up and carry items, just for fun.  Who knows?  Maybe down the road she'll be picking up a child's dropped toys for my daughter.  A grandmother can dream, right?

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Here's sweet Desi at the graduation party, just hanging out, keeping an eye on the festivities and the food table!

To Serve and Protect

For some reason, the last week and a half has included several appointments for dogs who seem to be taking their job as "protector of the humans" very seriously.  There's the dog who won't let anyone near the baby (including the grandparents), the dog who body blocks anyone who approaches his mom on walks, and the dog who won't let his dad get into bed because he's laying next to mom there already.  While we were able to come up with workable solutions in all of these cases, there are a few big takeaways I'd like to share with all of you, whether your dog engages in this type of behavior or not.  Why?  Because all dogs are protective; it's simply in their DNA.  Some just express the behavior more readily, but all dogs are alert to changes in human behavior that might indicate that their humans require backup or support, either in the form of barking, body blocking, or outright aggressive behavior.  This inherently watchful behavior by dogs is very likely one of the reasons that early humans actively sought out relationships with them in the first place.

When people ask me how to teach their dog to protect them or to keep an eye on their kids, I'm always quick to respond that dogs do that naturally, no training required!  Sure, there are people out there who train dogs for protection work, police work, and military, and dogs used for those jobs are selected specifically for their inherent drive and overtly protective behavior.  Their natural behaviors are honed and rewarded, bringing them more to surface where they can be expressed and controlled appropriately by an experienced handler.  For the rest of us, we don't need a protection dog; we just need to know how to utilize and appropriately control the dog we already have.

First and foremost, it isn't cute if your dog blocks people you want hugging you or touching you from being able to do so safely.  It also isn't desirable that your dog protects your baby or kids to the point that the nanny, babysitter, or the grandparents don't feel safe approaching your kids.  You will need to step in and manage this behavior as soon as you see it; don't write it off as a "one off" as that first occurrence is just the tip of the iceberg.  If you ignore or excuse the behavior, you are opening yourself up to a lot of liability as the next instance of the behavior may include an escalation to a snap or bite. Let's look at a couple of specific examples:

You are having guests to your house to meet your new baby.  Your dog runs to the door and begins barking when the guests arrive.  When you tell him quiet, he doesn't stop, instead choosing to crowd folks at the doorway, standing between them and you holding the baby.  What should you do?  Well, you definitely shouldn't ignore him and you definitely don't want to reprimand him either.  Ignoring is an invitation to persist and reprimanding will just lead to a dog that doesn't give any warnings about their intentions. Instead, stop everything and attend to your dog.  Put your dog on a leash and lead him to his bed or mat away from the door and tell him to stay.  Return to your guests and your greetings.  If your dog remains there, reward him! If he gets up and comes back to block you from your guests or begins barking again, grab that leash and lead him to a time out in another room. Leave him in the time out for 3-5 minutes, only returning to let him out again, on leash, when he's quiet.  If he in any way tries to body block you or micromanage the guests holding the baby, again, remove him to his bed or mat and tell him to stay.  He can be watchful from that position just fine. Again, if he breaks the stay, off to a time out and so on until he can learn to settle down and follow directions given by you. In this example, the dog at no time was given unlimited power, nor was he rewarded for his overtly protective behaviors. Instead, he was rewarded for listening and compliance with directives aimed at calming him.  Even if you don't have a baby and your dog blocks you from your relatives, friends, or significant other, do these same exercises outlined above.  Your dog needs to know that you will be the one to tell him if you need his backup. 

One more example:  You and your dog have been a duo for quite some time, but now you are seeing someone new and talking about moving in together, but your dog isn't a fan.  She is constantly getting up on the couch between you and your girlfriend, walking between you, jumping up to block hugs and kisses, and growling when your girlfriend tries to climb in bed.  This isn't funny, nor will it get better with time and familiarity alone.  Your dog needs to realize that whether she likes it or not, you've chosen this new person.  First up, is changing the way your dog views your girlfriend. Have your girlfriend feed meals, including hand-feeding.  Only your girlfriend can give your dog treats and she should be the one holding your dog's leash on walks.  When your dog tries to body block on the furniture or invade your space during a hug, correct her, but don't punish her.  Tell her "nuh uh" or "nope" and take her to her bed or mat and give her something else to do (a bone, a toy, or a chew is fine) and tell her to stay.  Return to sitting together or to your hug.  If your dog gets up and approaches, stop her before she gets to you with a "nuh uh" or "nope" again and send her back to her place. If she goes there on her own, great. If she doesn't then it's out of the room for a time out of 3-5 minutes.  Repeat this until your dog can either sit quietly waiting for attention from both of you (big rewards!) or she can remain on her bed or mat in place with something else to do.  For bedtime, your dog should not be allowed to sleep on the bed anymore, regardless of whether your girlfriend is there or not.  If you continue to allow your dog on the bed when the two of you are home alone, she will view not being on the bed when your girlfriend is there as punishment and resent your girlfriend. If, instead, we just implement a new rule of "no dogs on the bed," your dog won't love the idea, but at least the loss of bed privileges won't be associated directly with your girlfriend's presence.  We might not be able to make your dog love your girlfriend, but at least we can get your dog to respect her and understand that she is a second source for treats, food, and attention.

I hope this helps any of you going through similar situations with your dogs.  Dogs who overtly or covertly protect their owners aren't bad dogs, misbehaved dogs, or aggressive dogs.  They are dogs who need to be taught boundaries and limits so that they can still do their job with those rules in place.

As always, if you have questions about your dog's behavior, you know where to find me.

Henley is my shadow he's always nearby and often at my feet which is fine most of the time as I live alone with two dogs.  When people come over, he will definitely try to insert himself for attention and needs to be reminded where he is supposed to be. He may try to lay at my feet between me and someone I'm visiting with, so if that happens, I have him move to a different spot and give him something else to do.  He's never behaved aggressively toward anyone, but he is a big male dog and he can be imposing. I don't doubt for a second that he'd protect me if I needed his help. It's my job to make sure that he understands when that's appropriate and when it's not.

It Must Be June!

I say that "it must be June" because I've received almost a dozen calls and emails already from clients who want to know what I recommend for their specific pets as they, the humans, are headed on summer vacations. I try really hard not to say, "You really should have thought about this sooner!" and instead focus on what options might be available given the needs of their individual pets.  Let me give you a couple of examples:

A pet with separation anxiety: If your pet can't be left alone, then having a drop in sitter or using a traditional boarding kennel isn't going to work for you.  You will need to find either a petsitter who can stay at your home full-time while you are away, or a boarding facility that has around-the-clock staff so your pet won't ever be completely alone.  I realize that a full-time sitter or boarding option with 24-hour care is going to be more expensive, however, it will be worth it for peace of mind for both you and your pet.  Don't get me wrong: It's still going to be anxiety-provoking for your pet that you are gone, but that 24-hour care ensures that your pet will be safe and well-cared for.

A geriatric pet:  Older pets just need more care. It might mean slower, shorter walks for a senior dog.  It might mean medications given at specific times of day.  It could mean T-touch sessions for sore muscles and joints, or sessions on a t-PEMF mat for relief from pain and inflammation. It could mean dealing with middle of the night bathroom breaks, cleaning up toileting accidents, or washing pet incontinence items throughout the day.  It might mean reassuring an older pet that they are safe and loved when they experience sundowner's in the evening hours.  Because senior pets often don't see, hear, or move as confidently as they did when they were younger, keeping them in a familiar environment is often the best option when you are away on vacation. This could mean staying home with a petsitter in place, or staying at a friend or relative's house that is as familiar and comfortable for your pet as your home is. 

A special needs pet:  If you have a pet who is blind, deaf, missing a limb, has a medical condition like seizures, is seriously immune compromised, or on a very restricted diet, you will need to choose an option for them in your absence that ensures that they will be safe.  If you are leaving your pet somewhere other than your home, look at that situation from their point of view.  If they are blind or missing a limb, for example, then staying with a friend or caregiver who has stairs is likely not a great option.  If your pet is on a heavily restricted diet, staying with someone who free-feeds their own pets, or isn't particularly careful about human food left out and around, isn't going to be the best choice for your pet.  And if your pet has seizures, the stress of you being gone might trigger a seizure, so best to have them staying with someone who provides around the clock care, just in case.

Boarding facilities have come a long way since I was a kid.  Back then, boarding facilities meant dogs kept in runs and cats kept in cages 24 hours a day that were hosed or cleaned out once to twice daily and into which food bowls were offered once to twice daily as well.  That was it. Now, you can find boarding facilities where dogs are never caged or confined until bedtime at night. During the day, they are involved in daycare activities with friendly humans and other, well socialized dogs.  Some of these facilities have actual rooms where dogs board that look nothing like a cage or dog run, but more like a little, doggie hotel room.  And even where the boarding facilities use cages or kennels, many of them have spaces that are temperature controlled, use music and/or fans for comfort, and have cameras set up to keep an eye on it all in the absence of a human on site.  Clearly, while these facilities can be a great option for some pets, they aren't for those listed above or for dogs who aren't well-socialized or who don't like other dogs (have issues in aggression or reactivity).

There are people who provide petsitting in their own homes for their clients, and others who will petsit for you in your home.  If your pet will be staying at a petsitter's home, do a trial run before your actual vacation to make sure your pet is comfortable there.  If your pet will be staying at home with a petsitter coming in to watch them, make sure your pet knows this person and has spent time with them before you leave for your vacation.  You don't want any surprises!  Funny little side story:  When I first got out of college, I did a lot of housesitting to earn money to help with graduate school expenses.  I was housesitting for a cat owner whom I knew really well.  Her cat loved me at the vet hospital where we met, crawling across the counter of the hospital to sit in my lap or wanting to be held by me at their appointments.  We thought this would be a great fit when she left for three weeks to Europe that summer. Well, lo and behold, that's not what her cat thought.  While I cleaned the litter box twice a day, fed and provided fresh water, set out toys and treats, I never actually saw the cat the whole time the owner was gone.  The cat hid in a closet or under the bed until I left the house for work and would wait until I went to bed at night to come out to eat, play, etc.  It made me so sad as I thought this cat and I were buddies!  Truth of the matter was this: We were buddies on my turf (the vet hospital) but on her home turf, I was an interloper and nothing more.  Needless to say, the owner was as surprised as I was when she got back from her trip and found out that I never was able to brush her cat while she was gone. I never even got to pet the cat!  

Finally, some people opt to bring their pets along on vacation, rather than leaving them behind.  I've vacationed with my dogs many times over the years and we've always had a good time.  I begin traveling with my dogs when they are puppies so that the concept of long car rides, staying in unfamiliar spaces, and being on leash more isn't stressful for them. The only dog we've ever had that didn't like to go on road trips was Desi.  He was quite the homebody, preferring to stay home and leave the adventures to the other dogs.  We did take him on a road trip one time and he enjoyed a few of the activities, but for the most part he made it clear he'd have rather stayed home.  Now that Ozzie has gotten older, he's got some health issues that make long car rides uncomfortable for him.  Because of that, I prefer to have a housesitter stay in my home to care for him while I'm gone.  Henley is great on road trips and is always up for an adventure, but for now, I leave him home as well so Ozzie has company when the housesitter isn't there with them. And I never plan a vacation until I've secured a petsitter for my dogs. If I can't arrange for my daughter, one of her friends, or one of my friends to come stay at my house when I'm gone, then I simply don't leave.  My dogs are my responsibility. I owe it to them to make sure that they are comfortable and well-cared for always.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

The kids and I took Ozzie and Desi on a summer road trip to southern Oregon.  They both loved the cooler weather and exploring all of the smells along the coastline.  Ozzie loved the airbnb where we stayed as he enjoyed running up and down the stairs.  Desi hated the stairs so much that he stayed with the kids in the downstairs rooms, only venturing upstairs at mealtimes.  They both loved the garden, which ended up being a good thing as Desi could stay at the airbnb and nap in the garden while we took Ozzie on the long hikes that he loved, but Desi hated. Two very different collies!

In Defense of People Food

I was working with a new client this week and her adolescent dog. While reviewing ways to keep her young dog attentive and focused, I mentioned changing up the treats she was giving, opting for something really high value like hot dogs or string cheese.  She looked at me horrified and said she'd never given her dog "people food" because she didn't want him begging for it all the time.  I found this incredibly amusing as you might imagine because giving a dog a high value reward in the form of  "people food" should not result in a dog that begs at your table.  I could see we were actually going to need to address more than one issue with this dog and owner.

First let's just clear the air on "people food."  I don't like to use that phrase because, frankly, it's all just food.  While there are certainly foods that we as humans can eat like grapes, raisins, onions, and chocolate, we all know dogs can't have them.  Beyond the list of foods that they can't have, there are so many that they can have and that are actually good for them.  Foods like green beans, zucchini, pumpkin, and blueberries are all healthy choices you can share with your dogs without guilt.  They can also, however, enjoy plain Greek yogurt, lower fat cheeses, and cottage cheese.  As a treat, they can have hot dogs, and meats like ground beef, ground turkey, and ground chicken that can all be given as long as you've not added salt or spices when cooking. Yes, you can even offer a dog a chip, french fry, or pretzel, on occasion, without feeling guilty about doing so. Here's the thing:  Moderation is key.  Dog owners who never share what they are eating or preparing with their dogs often have dogs who not only crave/beg for those things, they have dogs who are constantly on the lookout for them.  These dogs often are the worst scavengers on walks, refusing to leave fallen food items, preferring to swallow them quickly rather than drop them on request.  These dogs are also often the ones with frequent gastrointestinal issues, especially around the holidays. Why? Because they are constantly scavenging for the forbidden foods and will find them, often on an unattended guest's plate, and scarf them down before anyone notices.  Some of these dogs may even end up with a serious medical issue like pancreatitis because of their behavior.  

One of my dearest friends and favorite dog trainers always tells her clients to prime their dog's pump.  What does she mean by this? She means, give them a little bit of the foods you eat and that they can safely have, so that they aren't constantly seeking them out; they already know you will share.  Doing so also means that their digestive tracts have been exposed to these foods and thus won't be irritated when presented with that food again.  Now, obviously, if your dog has serious food allergies you will be even more mindful of what they are eating, but most dogs can have at least a few of the foods I suggested above as safe to share.

So, now that we've established that you can share some of your food with your dog, WHEN you share with them is key.  Sharing from the table, for example, may result in a dog who hangs around the table, circling like a hungry hyena.  Sharing from the kitchen counter while you are preparing foods may also result in a dog who is constantly underfoot.  If, instead, you have your dog rest on their mat or bed away from the table and the kitchen prep area, and then reward them for their quiet stay in place after your meal is done or the prep is complete, you will have a dog with whom you can share tidbits of food as part of your ongoing training with them. You are training them and sharing yummy, high value treats that really reinforce the learning.

Just in case you were wondering if I practice what I preach:  I do have my dogs rest on their beds during meals and during food prep.  I will also call them over periodically, have them do something cute for me, and then give them a bite, before sending them back to place.  Why?  Because I like knowing that they will come when called, and return to place as directed, despite the presence of those obvious yummy snacks.  I also make my dogs fun treats like frozen lick mats covered in a mixture of peanut butter, Greek yogurt, and blueberries. I also make my dogs "pupsicles," basically liquid yogurt with berries added and then frozen in popsicle molds.  I put a tablespoon of canned pumpkin on their meals, and will often add a tablespoon of cottage cheese or Greek yogurt for variety. 

I've discovered over the years that dogs, just like people, are made up of some adventurous eaters and some who don't veer far from their tried and true favorites.  Henley and Zelly are adventurous eaters.  They forage in my gardens for warm, fresh berries right off of the bushes.  Both of them love zucchini and apples, and Zelly even loves spinach! Ozzie surfs my strawberry pots every morning without fail, but he doesn't bother with the blueberry bushes as they are a lot of work!  Zelly, on the other hand, loves the challenge and will poke her head in the blueberry bushes and pluck her prizes one at a time. While sweet Desi loved pumpkin and strawberries and any kind of meat or cheese, he hated vegetables!  If you tried to give him green beans or zucchini, he'd pick around them every time. 

Back to my client and her adolescent dog.  We worked on teaching her dog where he was supposed to be while she cooked and ate meals.  We gave him a frozen lick mat initially to reinforce place, but over time she'll be able to phase that out and give periodic rewards to him.  If he gets up and approaches the table or kitchen, he gets one reminder on where he's supposed to be and if he doesn't do so, it's off to a time out.  When she introduced string cheese to her training games, he became so much more animated and successful.  Tiny little bits of cheese had him finally able to do long line recall, stay for longer than a few seconds, and she was even using cheese to groom him, an activity he'd always hated.  A little cheese goes a long way!

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Here's Westley waiting patiently for a "pupcake" my daughter made for him.  This was from a recipe for a shareable peanut butter, applesauce, and apple muffin. She topped it with fresh strawberries, a favorite of all of our collies.

My Stepson's Dog is a Jerk!

A long time client sent me an email message about a month ago about her stepson's dog.  The subject line for the email read, "my stepson's dog is a jerk!" That sure got my attention, lol.  I met with her family and the dog in question and they gave me permission to share their story as they figured they couldn't be the only family with these issues.  I appreciated their candor and their willingness to learn.  Here's their story:

My client has two dogs, an elderly, though spry, small, mixed breed dog and a middle-aged, easy-going Labrador Retriever.  Her stepson came home from college, bringing his 14 month old Shepherd mix with him.  According to my client, she became concerned the second she saw them in the driveway!  Why? Because her stepson had the dog riding loose in his car, no harness or leash in sight as he let the dog jump out and make a beeline through her rosebushes.  When she opened the front door to ask if he needed a leash, the dog bolted past her, making a mad dash toward her two dogs, toppling the little dog and t-boning her Labrador!  When she yelled at the young dog, he continued to growl somewhat playfully and stand over her little dog.  Her stepson acted like nothing was wrong and proceeded to carry his bags in the house, ignoring the chaos his dog was causing the resident dogs.  Apparently it was downhill from there with his dog running across furniture, swiping food and dishtowels from the kitchen counter, and busting through a screen door to get out into the backyard.  This all happened, according to my client, in less than an hour's time.  When she spoke to her stepson about the dog's behavior,  he told her that he didn't believe in restricting the dog, instead taking a "dogs will be dogs" approach to raising his new companion.  She told me she secretly wondered if his roommates were okay with this approach.  At that point, she emailed me and we set up a time for me to come over and meet with them all before this situation got completely out of hand.  I told her that while I was more than willing to be the "voice of reason," so to speak, I would need her stepson to listen with an open mind.  Everything I planned to tell him about raising an adolescent dog was science-based, factual, and proven to work.  It most certainly was not, however, a "dogs will be dogs" approach.

First off, I explained why he would need to put his dog on a collar and leash, or harness and leash. Suburbia is no place for an off leash dog with zero recall; the dog was going to get hit by a car before the summer's end at the rate he was going.  Luckily, I'd brought a martingale collar and six-foot leash with me, so we started there.  I reminded this young owner that while wild canids navigate the world without leashes and collars, they also are doing so at risk of getting hit by cars too.  Next, we moved on to house etiquette.  Dogs should be taught boundaries, not because we are squelching their dog-ness, but precisely the opposite: We are teaching them to be dogs who know the rules.  Dog society is based on rules, boundaries, and enforcement.  That's true whether you are talking about wild dogs, wolves, coyotes, or house dogs.  Canid society is structured and there are consequences for those who step out of line repeatedly.  In the case of house dogs, it is our job as their humans to teach them to stay off of counters where they could hurt themselves.  If furniture is off limits, they need to be taught where they CAN be, even if that means tethering them in places, using x-pens, or having a crate.  Dogs should be encouraged to be polite; sitting for attention and petting, sitting and waiting to be fed, etc.  Even with wolves, adolescent animals who are too boisterous or overly-enthusiastic are quickly corrected by their elders. And when it comes to dog-dog interactions, boundaries are no exception. While older dogs typically will correct an adolescent dog who oversteps, in the case of my client's dogs, this was difficult.  Her older dog was too small (he was literally a seventh the size of her stepson's dog!) and while the Labrador could hold his own from a size standpoint, his attempts to correct the younger dog were being ignored and his frustration was leading him to spend more and more time hiding in his crate in the owner's bedroom. This meant that it was up to the humans to enforce the rules:  No running in the house; no running over the other dogs; no stealing the other dogs' food; no rough play.  I told her stepson he can put the dog on a long line and take him to the park for his runaround time.  He can take him to the dog park to play with other dogs whose play style matches his, but I did warn him to expect his dog to get corrected by other dogs there as well. At meal times, his dog needed to be fed separately from the other two dogs and not be allowed out of that separate area until the other dogs finished eating and their bowls were picked up.  To control his enthusiasm a bit in the house, he could keep a leash on his dog, tethering the dog to him so the dog learned calm, following behaviors, rather than responding to everything with unbridled enthusiasm.

Her stepson indicated that he really didn't want to "yuck his dog's yum."  That cracked me up!  I told him he was actually doing his dog a great disservice by NOT establishing rules and structure for accepted behavior.  Ultimately him not doing so would get he and the dog ostracized; dog lovers love dogs, but they don't love dogs who are over-the-top and ill-mannered.  Structure and boundaries are not mean, again, look at how dogs interact with each other.  There is give and take.  If one dog oversteps, say pinching another dog during play or stepping on them when they are asleep, there are repercussions. That isn't aggression; that's a reminder about boundaries and consequences.  Consequences teach a dog what's acceptable and what isn't.  And if a dog won't accept those consequences being dished out by another dog, or by the humans for that matter, then that's a real problem.  With my client's stepson's dog, we were dealing with a very active, untrained, adolescent.  Adolescence in dogs is characterized by boundary testing and setbacks as it is, so adding in that this dog had received no training before coming home for the summer, was just complicating matters.

I set up some ground rules for this family that everyone agreed on in principle.  This young dog would be tethered to his owner when he wasn't in the owner's bedroom.  He would be walked twice a day, on leash, and given an opportunity to run around outdoors on a long line.  He would be taken to the dog park every day to run and play with other young dogs.  The owner would spend five minutes, three times each day, working on training with his dog.  I taught the dog a handful of tricks which the dog seemed to really enjoy, so that gave me hope that the owner would follow through.  Meals would be in the owner's room or in the laundry room, and after the other dogs had been fed first.  All interactions between the dogs, whether indoors or in the yard, would be completely supervised.  If the older dogs corrected the younger dog and the younger dog ignored the corrections, then the humans would step in and remove the younger dog for a time out.  Clear consequences like that would help the older dogs to see that they were being supported in their attempts to teach this young dog some manners.

All of this happened just over a month ago.  I did my follow up this week and huge progress has been made.  The situation isn't perfect, but everyone is feeling relieved that much of the boundary enforcement and on-leash work is helping to keep the peace.  There was one setback at the dog park:  The owner was quite upset when his dog was "beat up by another dog he was just trying to play with."  When I had him describe the encounter, it was quite clear to me that, once again, his dog wasn't heeding another dog's warnings and this time there was a more serious consequence.  That wasn't the fault of the other owner or his dog and that was a hard pill for this young dog owner to swallow.  A learning opportunity for them both, right?

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Play time! This was Henley playing with Westley while Ozzie looks on.  Ozzie has never liked rough and growly play, but Henley always has.  Westley was patient with this...to a point.  If Henley overstepped, Westley corrected, and Henley respected that. That's how good play works.

A Few Final Thoughts on Puppy Class

This weekend, the five puppies in my puppy class will graduate, all with honors, I might add. No, seriously.  They have all done so well and their owners have accomplished quite a bit in the six weeks we've been together. Very few setbacks and a lot of forward progress is always worth celebrating! At last week's class, I reviewed everything that we'd accomplished so far, and frankly, the class seemed astounded. I asked one of the participants after class was done and I was cleaning up our space, why she was so surprised at what had transpired over the previous five weeks.  She told me that she'd taken puppy classes a couple of times before, and while she enjoyed the classes, they just weren't like mine.  She felt that she'd learned so much and that her puppy had learned so much, way more than her previous puppies.  I appreciated that feedback as it provides reinforcement for instructors like myself who put their time and energy into understanding the science of puppy brain development and finding ways to implement that science to benefit puppies and their people. I thought you all might find it interesting to know exactly what this group of puppies accomplished in just five weeks time:

1.  The basics of cooperative care:  Teaching cooperative care exercises to puppies (and kittens, for that matter) is much easier than trying to teach an adult dog who has already made negative associations with body parts handling.  We handle feet, ears, mouths, and tails, looking to see where the puppies might resist, if at all.  Any resistance is met with understanding and a different approach.  For puppies who don't like their mouths messed with, we don't force those mouths open!  Instead, we smear peanut butter on a finger and present that for them to lick, guiding the yummy coated finger into their mouth to rub their gums and teeth.  Each session, we do the same, rubbing around a bit longer until the puppy loves having their mouth opened and explored with peanut butter.  Then, we put the peanut butter on a finger toothbrush, and ultimately a dog tooth brush. Once that all works, we move on the dog toothpaste and we're able to open that puppy's mouth, and a bonus, brush their teeth!

2.  Games with a purpose:  The puppies in my class all knew their name, but a couple would choose not to come when called, both at home and in class. So, we took their leashes off (counterintuitive, I know) and dropped a treat in front of them.  Then we took a couple of steps, said their name, and when they looked at us, dropped another treat.  It's like Hansel & Gretel!  Then, we started tossing the treat away from us about 18 inches, watching the puppy scamper after it and then look back as if to say, "Where to next?"  We'd toss treats in several directions before returning to drop a treat at our feet, bringing the puppy back to us.  Now, we've got the puppy's attention and can add in the word "come!" in an upbeat tone when we drop the treats at our feet to get them closer.  Once we could get puppies to come without a leash, we put long lines on them and let them wander off and get distracted.  Funny thing happened.  Because we'd worked so hard getting them to come to us without a leash on, they came readily when they had the leash on, even with those distractions.

3.  Loose leash walking:  We all dream of dogs that don't drag us down the street.  Loose leash walking starts with puppies wearing no leash at all.  Counterintuitive again, I realize. We walk all around the classroom using a handful of treats and our most upbeat voices to get the puppies to follow us around. If they wander, we guide them back with the treats and our voices.  When they can do this reliably, THEN we put the leashes on....and we throw a bunch of really interesting "trash" on the ground to distract them!  At that point, we can not only practice loose leash walking, but we can practice "leave it" and "drop it" in a very real-world situation.  

4.  Tricks training:  We didn't just teach the puppies to "sit," "lay down," and "stand" when asked.  We taught them to "touch" an outstretched finger or hand; "crawl" on the ground; "flop" on their side; "rollover" completely; "turn" both left and right; "bow" and hold that position; "weave" through our legs while we walk; and "back up" when we step toward them.  Why teach all of these tricks?  Well first and foremost, because it's fun.  Second, because each of those tricks has real-world application.  A dog who knows "back up," for example, will move out of your way reliably and with ease when you walk through the door with your arms loaded, maneuvering in a narrow space. But the big reason we teach all of these tricks is that puppies' minds are sponges just waiting to soak up directions and guidance.  If you don't teach them things, they get bored and then they get into trouble.  Because they can learn so fast, the real shame is all those adult dogs out there who weren't taught all of these fun tricks as puppies; sure, they can learn to do them as adults, but it's so much easier with that puppy brain guiding the learning and soaking it all in. Plus, you give that puppy a foundation for learning and show them that learning is fun.  Then, their only limitation is you, their owner, coming up with other fun tricks to teach them as they continue to grow and mature.

5. Play is valuable:  We have two play sessions each class, one at the beginning and one at the end.  It's fun to watch how play changes when puppies are a bit more tired.  Play is a big part of their learning process: Learning to get along with each other, learning different play styles, learning that making another puppy squeal means you might lose that friend, at least for a little while.  Puppy play is really fun to watch, but it is so much more that just entertainment.  Play is a critical part of development in young animals.  Those who are deprived of play are often timid and behaviorally stunted.  They don't read the body language of other dogs with ease like dogs who played when they were puppies do.

As you can probably tell, I love a good puppy class, and this one was no exception. I'll be excited to follow the development of this group of puppies as they move on to adolescent classes and beyond. I have high hopes for a rally dog in this group, and one for agility as well.  Keeping their options open is important; they are just puppies after all!

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

People are always surprised when I tell them that Henley did puppy classes too!  Why?  Because he needed to play with other puppies and he needed the opportunity to do all of the things I outlined above, with the distraction of other puppies around.  He attended my puppy classes under the watchful eye of my daughter, since I was the instructor.  That was good for him too; he had to listen and follow directions from someone other than me.  The result? He's incredibly bonded to my daughter and takes direction from her just as well as he does from me.  He's a very good boy indeed.

Musings From My Latest Adventure

As many of you that follow me on social media know, I spent three days last week in Colorado visiting my friend, Lise Morgan, at the beautiful ranch where she and her husband raise, care for and nurture many animals, including their beloved collies. Foxhaven Collies takes a very different approach to the breeding, raising, and preparing of puppies for their next adventure as someone's beloved canine family member.  Zelly is a Foxhaven collie: She is confident, inquisitive, loving and lovable, with beautiful movement, carrying herself as a collie should.  While staying with Lise, we shared many conversations about how puppies of any breed should be raised and the kind of challenges those puppies face right out of the gate as they head to their new homes.  I wanted to share one of those conversations with you all as I thought it was particularly important for anyone raising a puppy, or thinking about acquiring a puppy.  

Giving puppies a leg up on life begins even before they are born.  Nurturing their mothers with an appropriate diet, a predictable, comfortable space, and adequate rest and exercise ensures that mother dogs are not under undue stress as they prepare their bodies for the birthing process.  Those puppies will then come into the world and nurse from a mother whose body hasn't been constantly flooded with stress hormones, affecting the quality and quantity of her milk.  Even before their eyes and ears open, puppies are absorbing the experiences around them. These "puppy potatoes" respond to the warmth and care provided by their human caretakers.  Once eyes and ears open, it's a race to keep up from a developmental point of view!

The environment your puppy is raised in between birth and 10 weeks of age should be ever-changing.  Their space should grow in size and complexity and include safe spaces for hiding or resting in addition to chewing, climbing, and play opportunities, as well as the introduction of novel foods to prime their gut.  The variety of items available in their space should be rotated daily, at a minimum, to maintain interest and encourage exploration. Puppies should be observed after these rotations to see how they are responding to the novel items, placement of objects, etc., noting what objects garner immediate interest, if any items spook or startle a puppy, and if any are actively avoided.  Any puppy that startles, note whether they recover quickly or whether they move away and continue to avoid what startled them.  You want your puppy's response to be elastic, like a rubber band; you want them to bounce back and try again, as if to say, "I was afraid of that crunchy tunnel at first, but once I saw a sibling run through it, I wasn't afraid anymore!"  That's bounce back and that's learning.

As puppies mature even more, you want to know that they were exposed to situations and experiences outside of their breeder's home.  That might mean a stroller excursion into town with a visit to a coffee shop, or it might mean having a couple of friends come by to meet and engage the puppies.  You want to know that your puppy was exposed to all different kinds of people so, again, if they are startled the first time seeing someone in a hat, they bounce back the second time that they are exposed.  Which brings me to my main point of telling you all of this in the first place.

You can flood a puppy (or a dog) with experiences, one right after the other, over and over, sort of like having a puppy party where you invite twelve people over and a bunch of screaming kids and have them meet your new puppy.  Flooding is a therapeutic technique, yes, but it isn't generally a successful one, particularly with puppies.  Flooding refers to rapidly exposing an individual to fearful stimuli in the hopes of them overcoming their anxiety and moving past it.  Puppies who are flooded with fearful experiences, like that puppy party, become quickly overwhelmed, making a permanent negative association in their brain that their caregivers can't be trusted to protect them.  If instead, you introduce your puppy to one new person, or a couple of new people at a time, allowing the puppy to choose whether to interact with those new people, or simply observe, you are providing your puppy with supported exposure.  This falls under the category of systematic desensitization, a much more successful means of exposing a puppy to new people or novel environments, allowing them to build confidence through successive, successful exposures, with rest in between.  And, yes, rest is not just important, it is critical to the process.

I'm always harping on puppy owners to make sure their puppies get multiple naps every day.  The timing of those naps is important as they should occur, in particular, after your puppy has been somewhere new, acquired a new behavior, or solved a difficult problem.  That nap afterwards is when your puppy's brain processes what they learned, building new neural connections and pathways.  If they aren't allowed to rest, those new neural connections don't happen.  Rest is restorative in more ways than one!

Just as (hopefully) your breeder did with your puppy during those first 9-10 weeks, it is your job to curate your puppy's experiences every day once they are in your home.  Gradually exposing them to new situations, objects, and people.  Watch their body language and be aware of what they are telling you.  Are they moving away or boldly approaching?  Are they leaning away from new people, or leaning in?  Are they yawning, scratching, shaking their bodies as if they were wet?  That's a puppy who's overwhelmed.  Read your puppy's body language and respond immediately; don't let them get flooded or overwhelmed.  Instead, build trust in you and confidence in themselves through relationship rapport, responding to each other.  Your job is to provide your puppy with supported exposures to new things, building on the lessons they received from their breeder.  Your breeder gave your puppy their head start and the foundation. It's your job to continue to help your puppy thrive, becoming the well-balanced, confident, capable dog they were born to be.

It really was a joy to observe puppies raised this way.  When I temperament tested this recent litter of three Foxhaven puppies, I was reminded yet again why choosing a good breeder is so important.  For myself, I want to know that my puppy had all of those benefits right from the start, including a happy dam and a warm, nurturing home environment.  Daily, age-appropriate challenges, including novel food and food puzzle experiences as well.  And most importantly, humans who loved them, nurtured them, held them, played with them, and watched them carefully for signs of stress or anxiety.  If you can find a breeder who loves with their whole heart, uses science-based methods, and revels in every little developmental step with awe and wonder, then you've found your next puppy. I know I have.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Here I am with Lise Morgan of Foxhaven Collies

 and her three, nine week old collie puppies!

Time For Some Fun!

As many of you know, I've studied, researched, published and logged thousands of hours of observation on play behavior in animals.  What's currently grabbed my attention is something slightly different: The importance of dog owners playing with their own dogs.  While I've certainly spent a lot of time watching puppies play with each other, as well as adolescent and adult dogs playing together, I'd never specifically thought about people playing with their dogs beyond the obvious "you should play with your dog to help foster a relationship with them." Turns out just spending an extra five minutes a day playing games with your dog is even more beneficial to your relationship with them than spending five extra minutes on training exercises.  Now, before you get too caught up in this, one caveat.  You still need to spend time training your dogs!  Even if doing so isn't the sole foundation on which your relationship is built, it's still important.

The type of games you play with your dog also makes a difference. For example, a game of fetch wasn't even included as part of the study. Instead, they looked at games whose focus was on the social interaction between the dog and the human.  So, games that included rough-housing, tug-of-war, chase, and hide-and-seek were seen as social bond building, creating a foundation for the formation of a solid relationship between the human and the dog.  I found this fascinating! Just a few years back, there was a backlash against people playing tug-of-war games with their dogs or engaging in rough-housing style play.  At that time, the argument was being made that doing so fostered aggression in dogs.  Consequently, I'd have puppy owners roll up to puppy classes and ask what they should be doing with their puppies since they "weren't supposed to play tug or rough-house."  I was always quick to debunk the mistaken connection between aggression and rough and tumble play.  That's not where aggression comes from and playing this way with your puppy isn't going to make them aggressive. If it did, then every dog I knew during the 70's and 80's (including my own!)  would have been aggressive because that's how we all played with our dogs!  The bottom line is this: They are most likely to be aggressive if they inherited some form of aggression, not because you played with them a certain way when they were puppies.

Now, it's certainly also true that not all dogs enjoy rough-housing play, and that's okay too. You know your own dog.  Most of the dogs I meet love tug-of-war, even if they don't love to wrestle.  And if they don't like tug or wrestling, they enjoy hide-and-seek.  I love encouraging the kids in my puppy classes, in particular, to play hide-and-seek with their dogs.  It's a great way to have a child get their dog to come to them by having their dog try to find them as part of a game. That doesn't mean that you, too, can't play hide-and-seek with your dog.  Try it yourself; a return to a game from your childhood will be good for you as well.

As Ozzie has gotten older, he likes to be tickled.  I don't know how to describe it, but I hug him and make tickling gestures and sounds and he makes that dog laugh I talked about last week. It's really quite funny.  When he was younger, he loved tug-of-war and hide-and seek, but he never liked rough-housing at all.  Henley loves tug-of-war and his favorite game involves me making my hands into spiders that wiggle around and try to tickle his feet or grab his toy.  He will bounce around, bark, and make the dog laughing sound, so I know he's having a good time too.  I have always enjoyed playing with my dogs, so now knowing that it's actually helping to foster a lasting bond between us is just the icing on the proverbial cake.

That's it for now.  Henley is asking to play tug-of-war and I'm certainly not going to say no to that.  As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Here's Henley playing tug-of-war with me!

Dog Laughter!

It turns out, dogs do laugh, and it has nothing to do with their wagging tails.  I stumbled upon an interesting research paper, documenting a study conducted in 2005 by Patricia Simonet.  She and her team had previously collected audio of dogs socializing and playing using a parabolic microphone so that researchers could remain at a distance sufficient to keep their presence from altering the dogs' behavior. They discovered that when dogs made a particular chuffing sound, much like a pant, but with a more complex frequency range, other dogs responded with similar sounds, play bows, or even a play face and initiation of a game of chase. When these recorded sounds were played back to dogs in a shelter environment, they discovered that the dogs who heard the laugh playbacks had a significant reduction in stress behaviors. Most fascinating to me was the fact that not only did their stress markers decrease, but most offered pro-social behaviors, including chuffing back and bowing.  She repeated the experiment with a group of fifteen puppies and found that one and all responded to the recorded dog laughter with happy romping about.

Interestingly enough, a few other researchers have tried to recreate this chuff sound themselves and it's not easy.  For a human to make this breathy pant, without creating vocal vibrations, is tough!  They discovered that mostly they just confused their canine subjects or the dogs had no response at all. For those who could mimic the sound accurately enough, they were rewarded with those same pro-social behaviors Simonet noted in her study: play bows, wagging tails, and friendly approaches.  Through trial and error, Simonet was able to create the sound for herself and found that even when she offered the canine laugh to shelter dogs, it resulted in similar pro-social behaviors.  Why is this important?

Reducing canine stress, wherever it shows up, is a worthwhile endeavor.  Whether in a shelter, veterinary hospital, or your own home, reducing your dog's stress increases their quality of life.  For people like myself who spend a lot of time observing, treating, and interacting with anxious dogs, I'd love to be able to recreate this sound.  I already go to great lengths to present myself to anxious dogs in a non-threatening fashion:  I don't stare, I don't loom, and I let them choose whether to interact with me or not.  It would be interesting to see if I could convince some of them to choose to interact faster if I could laugh like a dog.  I don't believe, however, that it would help every anxious dog, even if I could make the sound.  For dogs who are profoundly anxious, playing that canine laugh, or a human attempt at it, would likely be viewed as confusing at best, and downright rude at worst.  Sort of like someone trying to jolly you out of your stressful mood by cracking jokes and making light of it, which just ends up making the situation worse.

Okay...here comes the fun part.  Dogs will laugh when initiating play with their owners as well, so we can all conduct little mini-experiments of our own.  Grab a toy or position yourself as you do when initiating play with your dog and then watch and listen to them carefully.  See that wide grin?  That likely precedes the canine laugh once they get into play mode.  If you have more than one dog, watch their play sessions.  See what happens when one dog exhibits pro-social behavior (a bow, perhaps); does the other dog laugh and then the game begins?  It's really a fascinating way to spend an afternoon and I can confirm that it's a lot more fun than balancing your checkbook.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

This is Zelly offering the smiley face, slightly opened mouth grin, that precedes her emitting the canine laugh and initiating play with me, since Henley is sound asleep on the floor behind her, and thus uninterested in her shenanigans.

Not Every Dog Is An Einstein

 There was a wonderful article in the New York Times last week about why people think that their dogs are smart.  Did you read the article too?  If you didn't, and want to, here's the link:

https://www.nytimes.com/2026/04/15/science/pets-dogs-intelligence.html?campaign_id=9&emc=edit_nn_20260416&instance_id=174162&nl=the-morning&regi_id=119526550&segment_id=218310&user_id=5b6f3acda3c1e75ce5f119e547e74d2e

I really love when science and mainstream media meet as it gives us all an opportunity to think about a topic in a more thoughtful way, looking more closely at where our own biases effect the way we think about the world.  In this case, the way we think about dogs in general, and our own beloved canines, specifically.

Here's the gist of the article and why it's important:  Researchers have consistently found that dog owners rank their dog's intelligence with what's called a "better than average effect," or what we referred to in the psychology classes I taught at UC Davis as "cognitive bias."  Basically, we dog owners tend to overestimate the abilities of dogs in general, but we really tend to overestimate our own dog's intelligence.  Remember that Border Collie that made the news and was even in a story on 60 Minutes?  Her name was Chaser and she was a female Border Collie who could identify over 1000 toys by name.  This is a feat known as "word learning" and it is actually rare as it takes a combination of dedicated direct instruction by the human caretakers and the dog's own natural ability to eavesdrop on human conversations about objects and make inferences. For some reason, herding dogs like Border Collies seem to excel at these tasks, but not every Border Collie excels like Chaser. So, why do people who participate in these studies consistently rank their dogs, regardless of breed, as being so cognitively gifted?

I was fascinated by the data here:  While it is often stated that a dog's cognitive skills are on par with a human toddler (aged 1-3 years), this is really too simplistic a claim given the number of skills a toddler has that a dog doesn't and vice versa.  And, yet, in a 2025 study, people consistently ranked their dogs as having equivalent cognitive skills as 3-5 year old children, and many people ranked their dogs as being on par cognitively with a 16 year old kid. In one study, about a quarter of the participants ranked dogs as smarter than most people! Only 6% of the study participants said their dogs possessed a lower than average intelligence. The conclusion I found most interesting was that the dog owners who were most emotionally bonded to their dogs gave higher cognitive skill ratings to ALL dogs, not just their own.  So, somehow that emotional bond the study participants had with dogs caused them to rate dogs as more intelligent in a general sense.  And they also rated their own dogs more favorably than the average dog on markers such as loyalty and friendliness, and not just intelligence. That, I think, is really important.

Dogs excel at reading people. They read our body language, facial expressions, etc. and make inferences from that.  For example, when we look out a window, they'll often go over and look out too.  Or if we point at something, they'll look where we are pointing.  They'll get your attention when their ball rolls under the couch, demonstrating that they have object permanence; even though that ball is out of sight, they know it still exists.  Some scientists even believe that dogs can understand that others have a different perspective than they themselves have, a skill previously thought to be limited to primates and dolphins.

So, while at least two thirds of us dog owners might be like those in the 2025 study, stating unequivocally that our dogs are smarter than the average dog, the truth is this: Most of us are, statistically speaking, more likely to be living with dogs on the lower end of the intelligence spectrum. And, you know what?  That's not just okay, it's better than okay!  There is absolutely nothing wrong with a dog who can't remember where they left their ball or has to be reminded every time to sit before they go out the door.  Think of it this way:  Intelligence in dogs is a gift and a curse.  Really smart dogs like Chaser the Border Collie need almost constant engagement in the form of enrichment opportunities and mental stimulation so that they don't become bored, anxious, or destructive. In my opinion, a dog who excels at being a beloved family member is a dog to be desired and appreciated. Just because your dog has to be shown where you dropped the treat for him because a finger point in that direction is met with a blank stare, doesn't make your dog any less valuable than any other dog.  There are so many ways to be smart other than showing a knack for word learning or object permanence. 

Generally speaking, dogs have the uncanny ability to bloom where they are planted and that's a skill I wish more people had.  They find joy in the mundane, they relish schedules and routine, and they are happy just to be with us.  Your dog loves you unconditionally, so love him back for who he is: Your faithful, devoted companion whose most special ability is the one that allows him to bond to you and your family.  Frankly, that's the skill that I value the most in a dog.  In my mind, any dog can learn a party trick and the names of a few toys.  Bright dogs know when it's time for dinner and get you into the kitchen to prepare it as if they were the ones wearing the smartwatch.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Here's Henley, ready to work.  He loves learning new tasks and tricks and is a pretty quick study.  He's learned to follow a finger point but may seem to forget the name of a familiar object.  But you know what amazing skill he has?  He knows when it's time to take his anti-seizure medications and he'll come get me if I seem to be forgetting that it's time.  Frankly, I find that absolutely incredible as, (1) I often lose track of time and it really helps that he doesn't and (2) he needs those meds twice daily on a schedule and he knows the schedule better than I do. Do I think Henley is brilliant? No, but I do think he excels at love, friendliness, and a desire to learn. He's the perfect dog for me.