How Your Dog Really Feels

I had a video consultation last week with a client to discuss her dog.  We'd talked about him many times before, but this time was different; this time she was calling because he'd bitten her.  Being bitten by your own dog feels like such a breach of trust, leaving you to try to figure out the why of it all.  For this particular client, the bite was even more of a surprise because she's very good at reading his body language and signals, both the things he says and the things left unsaid.  As someone who didn't grow up with dogs, she feels like she's always learning with this guy, her first dog as an adult. Nonetheless, she's heartbroken as she's not sure where she went wrong and where to go from here.

I know we've talked about consent before, but I'd really like to address it again from the standpoint of helping anyone out there avoid getting bitten by a dog.  While it's certainly possible for a dog to bite someone "out of the blue," it really is unlikely.  Generally speaking, dogs bite for a reason.  While biting someone is a choice not every dog is willing to make, the fact that some dogs do make that choice is important and why we all need to think about what consent means for each dog, the dogs who bite and the ones who'd never make that choice, both deserve to be heard.

First off, if you always make it a habit of only engaging a dog that engages you first, you automatically reduce your risk.  Waiting for a dog to approach you means they've chosen to initiate contact.  Now, whether that contact will go much beyond a perfunctory sniff is up to the dog.  Let the dog approach you.  Let them sniff, if they remain near you, bow, nudge you, or bring you a toy, they want to interact.  If they approach, sniff, and then walk away, don't pursue them and don't try to reengage.  They've already told you they aren't interested.  

Now, if the dog has engaged you, remember that not all human touch feels good to them.  Dogs have preferences and while some of those preferences seem universal, some are very specific to the individual dog you are interacting with.  Thus, most dogs enjoy chest rubs and scratches and dislike head pats and tail touches.  A lot of dogs hate having their feet touched, but are fine with a leg rub.  If you observe dogs being engaged by strangers, you'll see some commonalities:  Most dogs are okay with chest rubs, shoulder strokes, and a light touch to the side of their neck.  Extended touch, rubbing fur the wrong way, fast motions, etc. are often met with lip licks, gaze aversion, and the dog moving or leaning away.  And if that person tries to bend down to kiss the dog, squat to hug them, etc., you'll often see a flurry of activity by the dog to get away from that contact.  Sure, there are dogs who put up with the unsolicited hovering and looming of people, but for many this is very anxiety-provoking. While that same dog may be fine with their owner hovering and looming, or offering that hug, those kinds of invasive behaviors are less likely to be tolerated when they come from strangers.

How do you know if a dog is enjoying the attention you are giving them?  That's easy.  Did they solicit more?  Did they stay in proximity to you?  Did they lean into you or nudge you for more?  Does their body appear loose with a soft gaze and maybe a lazy tail wag?  These are all signs a dog is enjoying the attention they are receiving from you.  A stiff body, turned away, with lip licks, yawning, frozen in place or moving away with ears lowered or back means you need to stop engaging the dog and allow them to decompress. When you are assessing your own dog, you'll often be given more leeway by the dog because they know you and trust you.  Just because your dog lets you "do anything you want to him" doesn't mean he'll be equally as tolerant of other people doing those same things.

Whether it's your own dog or someone else's, here are some generally good rules of thumb:  Let them come to you; let them sniff you; let them choose to stay; if they solicit attention, give it to them; pet them for a couple of seconds and then stop; wait to see if they solicit more or move away. Doing it this way will keep you from getting bitten by that dog. My client knew all of this, so what happened with her dog?

This dog also suffers from resource guarding aggression.  Regardless of how calm or relaxed he seems, if he's sitting or lying down in a spot, he may claim ownership of that area and snarl, growl, or snap if you try to displace him from his spot.  He's gotten much better about moving out of the way, when asked.  Once he's moving, he's no longer resource guarding.  This time, however, there was one difference.  He started to move and as he did, she reached out to pet his head.  That's when the bite happened.  Did you figure out why?  He hadn't solicited her attention and never solicits head petting.  Her absentmindedly doing so resulted in him lashing out. Now, I agree, this was overkill. He could have simply growled, snapped, or even whirled toward her and this would have resulted in the end of the interaction.  Why did he choose to bite her?  Only he knows why, but now the risk of him biting again is much greater than it was before.  Now, she needs to be much more thoughtful about how she approaches her own dog and how she allows others to approach him. The risk is simply too high for her not to do so.

It's important to remember that any dog can bite; actually, anything that has teeth can bite. Whether a dog bites you or not has more to do with your behavior than you think.  Be smart.  Be thoughtful and intentional in your interactions and listen to what their body language and behavior are telling you.  When in doubt, err on the side of caution and don't engage the dog at all.  If they really want your attention, believe me, they'll solicit it and there will be no doubt in your mind what they are looking for.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Zelly is very clearly soliciting attention here.  She approached my daughter, parked herself at my daughter's feet, facing her.  Zelly's gaze is soft and her body relaxed.  When my daughter lowered her hand, Zelly placed her face in that outstretched hand. I think you can tell from her expression how Zelly truly feels about this interaction!

Little Changes, Big Rewards

A lot of people I know talk themselves out of changing their routines or behavior, thinking erroneously that it takes big changes and big commitments to achieve noteworthy results.  This couldn't be further from the truth.  Little steps, made in the right direction, add up to big changes in the long run.  So, even if you know you can't run for even five minutes without passing out, for example, that's okay.  Just walk, every single day, picking up the pace as you become more limber.  One day, start to jog a bit, and then slow it back down to a walk.  Over time, you'll find yourself jogging more than walking, and that's terrific!  At that point you might be ready to try a slow run, or not.  Even jogging and walking is better than never starting that new exercise plan at all.  Small steps, big payoffs.  The same is true when it comes to our dogs.  We don't have to do it all, nor do we need to do it all at once.  Small changes will make a world of difference to your dog.  Here are some examples:

Stop feeding them in a bowl.  Now, I realize that it takes more time, and more pre-planning, and some additional cleanup as well, to feed your dog from something besides a traditional dog bowl.  Feeding them in other ways, whether that's in a feeder ball, snuffle mat, bob-a-lot toy, box, or just kibble scattered in your backyard, serves as mental stimulation.  Wild canids don't eat in bowls; they forage and hunt for their meals.  Feeding dogs in more creative ways is good for their brains and their bodies as it slows down their consumption process, leading to more efficient digestion of nutrients.  Even if you just feed one of their meals outside of a bowl everyday, every other day, or even just once a week if that's all you have time for, your dog will reap the benefits.

Let them sniff on their walks.  I know it's frustratingly slow to walk a dog, letting them sniff as much as they want, but it's important to try to let them sniff for at least a portion of every walk.  Start small.  Maybe let them sniff for the first five minutes, and then walk faster, encouraging them to trot along rather than stop and sniff constantly.  Build from there, allowing them to sniff for five minutes, trot for five minutes, and then sniff again for five minutes.  Try to make your goal be that half their walk was sniffing and the other half devoted to some exercise and fresh air.  And if you have the time to let them wander, please do it.  Put them on a long line and let them sniff and wander around to their heart's content.  Enjoy watching them!  And then, put them back on that shorter, walking leash, and get them some physical exercise too.

Rotate their toys.  While toy rotation is critical for puppies, it's still important for adult dogs too.  Toy rotation stimulates their brain to solve problems; it changes up their chewing options; and it allows them to blow of steam in different ways.  Toy rotation can be as simple as dumping the toys out of their box or basket once a week and changing which toys are on the top.  Or, maybe move the toy bin to a closet and every time you pass that closet, put a toy away and grab something different for them in exchange.  I have one client with a lot of toys (and she jokes, a lot of spare time on her hands!) who sorts the toys by style, sometimes giving he dog just rolling/round/ball type toys one day, and then only stuffed toys the next.  I appreciate her enthusiasm for toy rotation ingenuity, but I did encourage her to make sure her dog always had a readily available chewing option, regardless of how she'd sorted the day's toys.  Dogs need chewing options every single day.

Change up the treats.  You should always have treats in your pocket, or at least readily available, to reinforce your dogs for a job well-done.  While varying their daily diet isn't highly recommended as it can lead to digestive upset, varying their treats is a different story.  Even for dogs with food allergies, varying their treats is valuable for stimulating interest and enthusiasm with tasks, you just need to (obviously) avoid treats that contain those ingredients they aren't allowed to have.  Henley is allergic to so many things, including anything with chicken, turkey, or duck in it. Consequently, I choose treats for him that are 100%  rabbit or any kind of fish.  I don't give him the same rabbit treats or fish treats though every time; sometimes he gets salmon, sometimes it's salmon skin.  He may get cod or cod skin, or even pollock or smelt.  Just varying the kind of fish treat he receives, gets him excited!  This means that even for a dog with a limited ingredient diet, I can still provide some variety.  And for those of you with dogs who can eat anything, why are you always buying the same treats?  Change it up!

Never stop training your dog.  It doesn't have to be weekly classes and regular trips to specialized training facilities.  Just work with your dog every day for a few minutes.  Those minutes don't even have to be consecutive!  It could be one minute in the morning, two minutes before a walk, and then a couple of minutes at bedtime.  Start with just five minutes a day and see how that looks for your dog.  If you're both having fun, increase your training time, but I wouldn't push past about 10-15 minutes.  Shorter, more frequent training sessions are more valuable than those longer ones.  And for puppies, keep it to five minutes or shorter, multiple times a day.  You can work on behaviors your dog knows already, and then segue into learning new behaviors or tricks.  This is where the internet can be your friend!  Watch some of those fun dog videos, showing tricks and behaviors that any dog can do (honest!) with a bit of training.  Break down those videos into smaller pieces and teach your dog to do them.  Even if they don't end up doing it as well as the dog in the video, they still had a good time learning.  Besides, do you want to know how long it took to teach that dog in the video? A lot longer than that finished reel you watched for sure!  And that video? It was edited too.  Your dog is learning and doing it in real time!

So, what's the take home message?  Just making small changes can have big, positive consequences for you and for your canine companions. "The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step"--Lao Tzu

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Zelly with her chewing option du jour: An antler from Woof!

Am I Really Being Selfish?

That was the question posed to me by a woman at a recent, private book signing event.  First off, a big thank you to all of you who attended that event!  I can't believe folks are still reading my memoir, wanting to meet me, and get their copies signed.  Makes me giddy every time I think about it.  Anyway, I always do questions and answers during these events and most people come with great behavior questions or anecdotes to share about their pets.  This woman, however, hesitated to even raise her hand and ask her question.  She told me after the event that it was okay to share her story as she intended to send it to her family as proof that she had sought advice. So, here goes!

This woman has not had a dog in almost 20 years.  She had dogs before she got married, but her husband was allergic to dogs (or so he said), so they didn't have any dogs while they were raising their two kids. She's recently divorced and her kids are off at college, so she was feeling like this would be a great time to get a dog for herself.  She said she was looking for "the unconditional love and companionship that only a dog can provide."  When she told her family about her plan to get a dog, they told her she was being selfish to even consider it!  They said she would be limiting herself and her ability to travel, visit her kids at school, or attend family events and social occasions. I'm pretty sure you all already know what I told her, and any of you with dogs in your life are probably bristling at those comments from her family.

I told her that making the decision to open her home and heart to a dog was a noble one.  Dogs absolutely provide love and companionship to their caretakers. They keep us to a schedule, make sure we get our step count in every day, and remind us to stop and smell the flowers.  And the trees. And the bushes.  And where that other dog peed.  They keep us company while we read, watch TV, or prepare meals.  If allowed, they will share our couch and our bed.  They love to learn new things and be challenged appropriately.  That means that a well-trained dog can go most places their owner goes, as long as that place allows dogs.  Meaning, well-trained dogs can vacation with you, visit college towns, and stay in hotels, Airbnb's, and your friends' homes.  To tell this woman that she was selfish couldn't have been further from the truth. She had, in fact, been agonizing over this decision for months.  Her family relies on her to step up and take care of aging family members, and be available at a moment's notice, something she may be less able to do if she can't, in fact, bring her dog with her.  But here's the thing:  Should she really be the only person in her extended family taking care of these responsibilities?  Shouldn't she be allowed to find some joy for herself? I don't see that as selfish (or foolish) at all. She deserves happiness too and if a dog helps her feel fulfilled and happy, they let's find her a canine companion!

We talked for quite a bit after the event was over.  She said she felt very supported by the group at the event as a whole.  There were some pretty vocal supporters there and they make me smile even now just thinking about them.  They basically told her that her family would learn to embrace her as a dog lover again, or they'd need to find someone else to do all those extra tasks for themselves!  Dog lovers really are there for one another and I think this woman made some new friends as well.

I'm looking forward to working with her and her new dog once she decides whether to get a puppy, or look for a young adult dog, or even a sweet senior to segue back into the world of dog ownership.  Her kids sound pretty supportive which I think will help a lot.  And honestly, who can't help but fall in love with the dog who helped someone step back into their life?  Dogs are a priceless gift we give ourselves and they ask for very little in return.  Maybe that is selfish, but I don't think our dogs would have it any other way.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Get you a dog that looks at you the way Zelly looks at my daughter!

Near Or Far, Wherever You Are!

I started working with a new client who lives in Illinois.  She found me through one of my blog posts on Instagram and started following me as she was getting ready to bring home her first dog, one she had engaged with many times as a work friend had fostered him for a rescue group in their area.  She wanted to do "everything right" for this new dog, so she scheduled a video appointment with me to go over what she needed to do to get him off to a great start.  When we finished the appointment she said, "Gosh, I wish you were here in Chicago!  There are so many dog owners at my office who could use your help!"  That's when I told her that there was an easy way for us all to still work together, even though I'm in California.  

During the pandemic, I began using Zoom fairly regularly. I'd initially resisted video platforms as I wasn't sure my methodology would convert well over video and because I talk so fast, I was worried it would make it even harder for pet owners to understand what they needed to do if I wasn't standing right in front of them. I couldn't have been more wrong.  Being forced to think outside of the box, slow down my talking speed, and find ways to demonstrate techniques using a video platform, allowed me to reach every new client I worked with during the COVID-19 shutdown, keeping my business afloat.  One pandemic client worked for Google and asked if it would be possible to work with a group of his colleagues who were all bringing their dogs to work with them before the pandemic, and were having trouble working from home with those same dogs. From that request was born an idea: A way to use a video platform to offer virtual classes and seminars to groups of pet owners.

Since that first group appointment with the Google folks, I've taught many a virtual class and seminar. Here's how it works:  One person organizes the group for the class or seminar, gathering people with similar questions/problems. It might be a "Puppy 101" seminar for new puppy owners, or it could be a discussion on how to treat separation anxiety.  I've done single topic seminars, question and answer sessions with breed clubs and veterinary offices, and even an online puppy class!  That one really stretched my abilities, I have to say.  I'd always taught puppy classes in person, emphasizing puppy socialization, and building camaraderie among the participants so they'd support each other.  With the virtual puppy class, the participants already knew one another from an in-person puppy socialization group and were looking to work on skills they could do outside that classroom setting.  They actually gathered at the organizer's house, using her yard for the virtual class.  We had such a blast!  Henley was a puppy then and he participated too, acting as a "demo dog" for many of the exercises.  To this day, he still tries to insert himself in my video appointments; I think he's hoping that he'll be involved again too.

So, back to my client in Chicago.  She's currently organizing a group of her colleagues for an evening presentation on dog body language and communication.  She's asking the rescue group where many of them got their dogs, to host the event.  I'm excited already and planning out some fun activities to do during the meeting to help everyone gain a better understanding of how to apply what they'll learn to what they actually observe when they are with their dogs, out on walks, and at the dog park. It's going to be so much fun!

If any of you are interested in setting up a group appointment or seminar on a topic in animal behavior, just let me know, and I'll send you details.  In the meantime, please continue to send your questions and pet observations my way.  Maybe you'll see your topic turn up on the blog too.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

We did "class pictures" at the end of that virtual puppy class. Here was Henley's photo!

Dogs As Individuals

We all do it at one time or another. We compare our kids, our spouses, and yes, even our pets.  Sometimes, we're just doing it in good fun, but many times we do it out of frustration.  We might wonder why one of our kids does so well in school while another is more sports-minded.  If we keep this question to ourselves, that's one thing; but if we air it out loud, we run the risk of hurting our relationship with our kids, pigeon-holing them into one lane (scholastic) or the other (sports).  The same is true when we compare our pets.  Whether we are comparing the dog we have now to one we had before, or we are comparing the breed of dog we have now with a previous member of that same breed, we are doing those dogs a disservice by not allowing them to simply be who they are, individuals with their own brains, genetics, and environmental influences.  Just because I've had collies for over 20 years doesn't mean that I expect the ones I have now to be anything like that first collie I owned. Or like Lassie, for that matter.  So, why is that even important?

Your relationship with your dog is a relatively short one, unfortunately.  They just don't live as long as we do.  It's really their only shortcoming, but all the more reason to enjoy the individual animal in front of you for who they are, not who they should have been/could have been/might have been.  If you treat your dog as a unique individual, you'll find yourself asking better questions:  What do they need to be happy?  What can I do to keep their brain active?  How much exercise works best for them?  What is their favorite treat?  Do they even like the beach, or are they just going because I enjoy it?  Answering those questions honestly will not only help you be a better pet parent, they'll help you better understand your dog.

Understanding your dog as an individual means being a better observer in order to answer those questions effectively.  Watch their behavior; learn to read their body language; wait for those cues to come from your dog instead of filling in the blanks yourself.  For example:  Instead of just handing your dog the treat you think they'll like, have one in each hand.  Ask them to sit and then let them sniff each hand closed around the treat.  Let them choose the one they want.  Trust me, you'll know when they paw or nudge the hand with the treat they've chosen.  Sure, they might like both treats, but that's not the question we asked!  We asked which one, between these two choices, is your favorite today?  Notice I said today.  You could do the same exercise tomorrow, with those same two treats, and they might pick something different and that's the whole point.  Most of us do the same thing!  We might like tortilla chips with our sandwich one day, but prefer Cheetos the next.  

Many of you that follow me on Facebook, know about my dog buddy, Loki.  We spend many a Saturday morning together, exploring, climbing, sniffing, and wandering.  I always let him choose.  When I get him out of the car, I'll ask him where he wants to go. If he doesn't immediately head in one direction, I'll start heading one way myself, and he'll often put on the brakes, and change our course.  He had a destination in mind, it just took him a minute to decide.  I can then tell by the direction he's chosen, what activity he's in the mood for.  And yes, we do this every Saturday that we are together.  It's why, I believe, he enjoys spending time with me.  I treat him as an individual who can make choices about what he does, and doesn't, want to do with our mornings together.

If you've ever been unsure as to whether your dog enjoys trips to the beach, or a particular hiking route, take a moment and recall what their body language and behavior was like the last time you were there together.  Did they get antsy in the car, realizing where they were going?  Did they eagerly hop out of the car, ready to get started?  Did they seem to never want the day to end?  If the answers are no, then that outing isn't a favorite for them, even if it's a favorite for you. Maybe the car ride is too long and they get a bit nauseous.  Or maybe, the last time they were there with you they were too warm, or there were other dogs there that made them anxious.  Whatever the case may be, you've noted their preferences.  Once again, just because your previous dog loved the beach, doesn't mean your current one necessarily does and that's okay.  They are different individuals.  You can still go to the beach, obviously, but maybe you don't take them with you every time, or you find a way to make it more fun for them. If they are social, maybe meeting a friend and their dog at the beach is a better idea.  If they just aren't a fan of the water or sand, stay up on the bluff.  If they tire easily, bring a picnic blanket or beach towel big enough to share and a few snacks to make the stops more enjoyable.  It's called compromise and it's what makes any relationship successful, even the one you have with your dog.

Henley and I ran together early this morning before it got too warm outside.  We don't run fast, and we mix in some spots to walk, and for him to sniff, and relieve himself.  We do this a couple times a week because it's an activity we both enjoy.  He's the second dog I've had who enjoyed running with me; Ozzie loved it too, but is now too old and frail for the activity, so we do other stuff together.  Desi?  Desi hated to run; he didn't even like a brisk walk.  He always preferred a slow amble, and never very far.  Trips to the beach with Desi always meant a lot of breaks to bird watch, and that was fine by me.  The beach can be enjoyed by runners and amblers alike.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

One of my favorite photos of Ozzie and Desi on a beach day.  Yes, it was really windy and yes, they actually thought that it was perfect collie weather!

Your Report Card

Have you ever thought about how your dog might grade your work as their caretaker? Would you receive that coveted A+ for being the owner that remembers all of the big and little things?  Or are you more of a solid C+, remembering the basics like mealtimes and walks, but not always thinking much beyond that? While I believe most dog owners would give themselves high marks, their canine companions might be a little less likely to hand out those easy A's. Just for fun, let's take a look at the subjects on which our dogs might rate our efforts:

 First Period: Cooking & Food Service

Your dog would like to know why you feel the need to measure their food with an actual measuring cup rather than simply measuring with your heart?  They also want to know how you thought they wouldn't see you dividing treats in half and eating cheese without sharing.

In all seriousness:  While food should be measured to accurately assess the daily calories your dog is consuming, how they receive those calories should vary.  Don't just feed your dog in a bowl.  Instead, choose slow feeder bowls, lick mats, puzzle balls, snuffle mats, and food puzzles, rotating them regularly. And remember, dogs have been joining us for our meals for over 30,000 years, so go ahead and reward that steadfast devotion with a small token of your appreciation, meaning a small bite of that cheese.

Second Period: Language Arts

Your dog would like you to know he's not barking incessantly, nor without reason.  There is a squirrel on the fence, a cat in the yard, a neighbor kid going by on a bike, and an Amazon delivery truck across the street.  You need to know about these things and since you clearly aren't getting it at one bark, several are needed to make the point.  Things are happening, people.  Keep up!

In all seriousness:  Most dogs bark for a reason.  Whether that reason is important to you or not, acknowledge them.  Tell them you saw it (or heard it) and then ask them to be quiet and redirect them to another task.  

Third Period:  History

Your dog would like you to know that while it is true that you've always come back every time you've left the house, SOMETIMES you are gone longer than expected and that can be quite upsetting. 

In all seriousness:  Dogs live in the here and now and celebrating the return of a pack member is a joyous occasion.  Relish in the fact that you were missed, you are loved, and your absence was truly noted. Just because you only went to the mailbox doesn't matter to your dog.  They love that you are back and want to make sure you know.

Fourth Period:  Science

Your dog would like you to know that while they enjoy the sound of your voice, a good belly rub or butt scratch, and a game of fetch or tug-of-war, science shows that the real way to their heart is through a good snack.  Don't skimp on the treats!

In all seriousness:  It really has been studied.  If you are teaching your dog a new behavior, or reinforcing an existing behavior, giving them a treat increases learning.  Sure, they love being told they did a good job and receiving a physical reward from you (a pat on the head, for example), but the real, tangible reward for them is that food/treat.  Keep treats on you at all times!

Fifth Period:  P.E.

Your dog would like you to know that you've been hurrying them along on their walks, skipping all the good sniffs.  In addition, you've cut their walks short more than once, and rarely changed the route or destination.  This is the area where they feel you need the most work.

In all seriousness:  Don't yank your dog along on their walks; they need to sniff. Sniffing reduces anxiety, helps them to blow off steam, allows them to assess what's happening in their neighborhood, and serves as a form of mental stimulation.  You know that phrase, "Take the time to stop and smell the roses?"  Your dog considers that their credo.  So, while you are stopping and letting them sniff, change up your walking routes, or add in a fun hike or new destination.  This will help to keep you, the person on the end of the leash, more entertained, and ultimately provide your dog with a plethora of new smells to explore.

Sixth Period:  Social Studies

Your dog would like you to know that while some dogs enjoy frolicking with other dogs off leash, such activities are not for *every* dog.  

In all seriousness:  Sociability is on a continuum from social butterfly to total introvert.  While most puppies enjoy socializing with other dogs, particularly other puppies, even some puppies prefer the company of humans to other dogs and that's absolutely okay.  Most adult dogs prefer to play with their humans than other dogs, and those that do enjoy playtime with other dogs, do so for much shorter bursts of time, preferring to just "hang out together" without an agenda.  Dog parks are for young, healthy, social butterfly dogs.  Leave the older dogs, the introverts, and the impressionable puppies at home.

So, what's your grade point average now that you know what classes you've been taking?  Are you still an A+ or are you relieved to have earned a solid B? Did you figure out where you have room for improvement?  Maybe you can ask your dog for some extra credit points by taking them on a hike this weekend with friends, allowing a lot of time to sniff and explore, with a bag of treats in your pocket, just because?  Hey, it could work!

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

This is one of my favorite old photographs.  This is my daughter with Westley back in 2019 right after she adopted him. They were headed out on a hike, an easy trail walk that was new to her and new to him.  The road was wide open and the possibilities seemed endless.

The Importance of Good Balance & Core Strength in Dogs

So, how many of you have done the SRT test (the Sitting-Rising Test) for yourself?  You begin with ten points and your overall score decreases with each assist you need to sit down on the floor or get back up once seated. It's a test that doctors, physical therapists, etc. use to assess mobility and longevity in people, particularly older people.  While there isn't the exact same test for older dogs, most veterinarians do some similar measures on senior dogs during their wellness exams to assess balance and core strength and get ahead of any mobility challenges.  There's so much more we can do for our dogs beyond daily walks to help them build and maintain their core strength and continue to have good balance as they get older. If you start with these exercises for your young adult dog, that is a dog who is out of puppyhood with full bone development, it means you will have measurements of their mobility to compare to as they age.  A lot of these exercises can be done using things you find in nature or at the park, but you can also use your own gym equipment at home for many of them.  Here are some examples:

For Good Balance and Core Strength:  Begin by having your dog walk along a curb on leash. You can use a treat to keep your dog walking in a straight line, eyes on the treat at nose level, not looking down at their feet.  If they can do this easily, repeat the exercise having them walk on a plank on the ground.  If this is easy, lift the plank up off the ground, supported by cement blocks and have them walk across again, keeping their head up, following the treat.  We aren't looking for speed here but a steady, confident pace, no jumping off the plank.  You can also observe them walking across one of those moving bridges on a kids' playground or jumping from rock to rock as they move along on a hike. Next, position your dog at the start of a hallway.  Standing in front of your dog, step toward them slowly so that they take a step backwards.  Use a treat so that they stay focused on you as they back up, versus turning away from you and moving away facing forward. Do they back up in a straight line or do they veer to one side or the other?  If you have a BOSU balance trainer in your home gym, that works really well too.  Place the BOSU trainer with the flat base down and have your dog step up onto it with their front feet and stay in place.  Use a treat as a lure and hold onto the treat until you let them back off the dome.  Work up to all four feet on the dome, and then have them back up so that just their rear feet are on the dome.  Once they can do this with the flat side down, flip the BOSU over so it wobbles and try the exercises again.  If you have yoga blocks, you can also do balance exercises using those, you just won't be able to do the wobble version. 

Stretching and Mobility Assessment: Have your dog sit in front of you on a non-slippery surface. Step away from your dog backwards and lure them into a standing position, noting how difficult it is for them to rise from a sit to a stand.  Many senior dogs have difficulty with this exercise and it takes a couple of tries, and a bit of scooting, before they can get enough momentum going to rise up from the sit.  You can also have them lay in the down position and measure the effort needed to come up to a sit and then to a standing position.  With your dog standing at your side, use a treat to slowly have them stretch their neck to reach the treat, not moving their feet.  Next, slowly move the treat downward, encouraging them to follow the treat down, again stretching their neck, without laying down. Move the treat slowly toward one side so your dog keeps their neck level and brings their head around following that treat.  Move the treat back to center and then around to the other side slowly.  You are measuring how much flexibility they have in their neck with this exercise. Use a treat to lure your dog to turn in a circle, first one direction and then the other way. It's perfectly normal for an adult dog to only be able to easily turn one direction, but they should be able to turn a tight circle without tipping, tripping over their feet, or flopping into a down.

Finally, if you have access to a pool, you can help your dog gain mobility and core strength with swimming.  Be sure to use a dog life vest on them regardless of their swimming abilities.  That vest will help you to guide your dog along using the handle on their back.  You will want to hold them in place so that they are paddling but not moving anywhere, helping to create resistance. Next, hold that handle and let them paddle forward and then guide them to paddle in a circular motion.  If you have long enough stairs in your pool, you can have your dog walk back and forth, slowly, following a treat, so that they are moving through the water, creating resistance and building their muscle tone.

So, why am I suggesting you do this now with your young, spry, healthy dogs?  Because some day, they will be senior dogs and you want them to have the best chance at a comfortable and safe life as they navigate the aging process. Helping them with their mobility strength now means a stronger core and better mobility later in life.  

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

While mental exercise is important too for all ages of dogs, none more so than our senior dogs.  Here's Ozzie resting on his puzzle after solving it.  At 11.5 years old, Ozzie has slowed down quite a bit.  He has arthritis and spondylosis, two conditions that have led me to use a PEMF mat for him three times a day, helping reduce inflammation in his body. He also completes the exercises outlined above to the best of his abilities, though we don't have a pool, so no swimming for this sweet, old guy.

Big Dogs, Small Dogs & Every Dog In Between

Last week, a client asked me if I would write a reference letter for her dog.  At first, I thought she was teasing me, but then I realized how serious she was.  She was moving into a new condominium and the HOA required reference letters from two "pet professionals" for each pet belonging to a new, prospective resident.  Wow!  She'd gotten a letter from her veterinarian and was hoping I'd write one for her sweet dog too.  I had interacted with her dog on numerous occasions in classes and seminars over the years, so I didn't hesitate to write a glowing recommendation for her pup.  He's house-trained, sociable with people and other animals, doesn't bark excessively, and he walks nicely on a leash.  I told her she should include a copy of his CGC, Canine Good Citizen certificate, with the reference letters as well.  As she and I talked more about this reference request, some other interesting, and a bit disturbing, pet-related policies came to light that I thought I'd share with you. 

She told me that she'd been turned away from several upscale apartment homes, townhomes, and another condominium complex because her dog weighed over 20 pounds.  This one really irritated me.  First of all, do you want to know how many under 20 pound dogs I know whose owners have never completely house-trained them?  Meaning, they still have regular accidents in the house.  If you are concerned about property damage and that's why you are discriminating against big dogs, you really need to examine the amount of damage urine and feces can do to flooring!  Plus, some of the barkiest, least sociable dogs I know are the under 20 pounds set.  Many of us jokingly refer to this as the dogs having a "Napoleon complex," but it's true. In my opinion, apartment managers, property managers, and landlords should consider each pet on an individual basis.  Meet with the pet owner and the pet and then decide based on the behavior you see, not on some preconceived notion about them.  If it's a dog, go ahead and require a CGC certificate be submitted, or proof of obedience class attendance.  Definitely ask for references, but meet the pets yourself.  Sure, it takes a bit more time, but just have the pet come with the prospective tenant to the walk through interview.  

Now, I'm sure, I'm going to get a message from someone who reads my blog and actually is a property manager or landlord telling me that they aren't qualified to judge a pet's behavior and frankly, that's a cop-out.  Sure, you may not be a pet professional, but you know what a well-mannered dog looks like.  Well-behaved dogs come in all shapes, sizes, and breeds.  Not all Rottweilers are menaces, not all German Shepherds are barky, and not all Terriers are destructive.  Sure, some of them are, but you can figure this out when you meet them. And you should definitely meet those under 20 pounds dogs in person before having their human sign on the dotted line.  Just watch your ankles!

In all seriousness:  Dogs of any size can have behavior problems.  Whether a dog (or cat) has a behavior problem will depend much more on their genetics and upbringing than on their physical size or shape.  I would think the most important factors for property managers should be the sociability of the pet, whether they are house-trained, whether they are destructive, how loud are they, and can they be walked in common areas without issue.  I also think it's wise to have the new resident sign off that they will pick up behind their dogs when toileting outside in common areas, and have a consequence such as a fine for those dog owners who don't do it.  It's only fair!

We all know (or should know) that property managers cannot discriminate against a pet owner who has a legitimate service animal or emotional support animal seeking housing, regardless of the size of the animal.  And it is absolutely okay to ask what service the animal provides the owner and ask for proof of training and certification for those with emotional support animals. 

Story time!  Years ago, I was looking for a small house to move into near the beach in San Diego.  I had a medium-sized dog at that time (Shadow weighed 43 pounds), as well as my completely indoor cat, Katmandu.  None of the places I'd seen listed allowed dogs, or if they did, once again, the dogs had to be small in size.  So, what did I do?  I scheduled a walk through at a house I was really interested in and I brought my dog and my cat with me.  As I approached the house, the landlord was standing on the porch.  I came up the walkway, dog on a leash at my side, cat on a leash and draped around my neck.  I asked Shadow to sit and stay and asked if we could take a look inside?  He said sure, though he was clearly still trying to figure out if the cat was real!  As we entered the house, Shadow remained calmly on the porch in her sit/stay.  By the time we'd gotten to the kitchen, the landlord indicated that he thought that she should come inside too.  I called her and she calmly walked into the house and sat next to me, tail wagging. He asked if he could pet her and I told her to go say hi, which she happily did. No jumping up, no exuberance, no problem.  He then asked if he could meet the cat!  I put Katmandu on the ground and he sat there on leash, waiting to be called over.  When the landlord bent down, Katmandu approached him, rubbing against his legs and trying to bump his head on the guy's hand.  He'd never seen such well-behaved animals, he told me. He also told me I put his own pets to shame!  Needless to say, we got the place AND when we moved out two years later, he offered to write me a tenant reference letter if I ever needed one in the future. I'm pretty sure that going forward with that rental property, he knew to judge the pets and their owners by their behavior, not by the size of the animals on paper.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Of course, my daughter had heard that story about Shadow and Katmandu, so she planned accordingly when she went to meet the landlord of a house in Los Angeles that she was very interested in renting. It was in a great neighborhood, close to the UCLA campus where she was in law school, with a nice backyard for Westley.  There would be lots of competition, so she was going to need Westley to not just show off what a great dog he was, but how his mom should be the one chosen for this place. He showed up in a bow tie and the deal was sealed. How could anyone resist?

The 4th of July: A Postscript

I used to really enjoy the 4th of July.  As a kid, it meant swim parties, hot dogs, and staying up late to watch fireworks.  Our family dog, Tosh, didn't care about fireworks at all, so we could be home or gone, he was always just fine either way.  As a grad student, I had Shadow, my border collie mix.  She, like Tosh, wasn't fazed by fireworks. In fact, she seemed to be fascinated by them!  I took her with me to the big, town fireworks display provided every year at a city park by the Davis Fire Department.  She would sit or lay on my picnic blanket, surrounded by college kids and snacks, and watch the proceedings.  It seemed I was on a roll as the next few dogs also didn't care about fireworks.  All of that changed, however, when Desi became a senior dog.

While Desi was unfazed by fireworks for the first several years we had him, he became agitated with the fireworks, pacing and panting the year he turned ten.  From then on, he'd need to be inside with fans going, the A/C on, the TV on, and people there to comfort him when needed. Ozzie seemed more worried about Desi than he did about the fireworks, so I figured he was okay.  Funny thing though...Ozzie was fine until he turned ten, and lo and behold, the fireworks bothered him as well.  As his hearing diminished, it seemed his agitation grew with the booming feelings he felt inside of his body, more than the sounds or lights. While he'd watch with interest the lights from the fireworks you can see from my yard, the booming vibrations that seemed to fill the air after some of the stronger ones, really upset him, causing him to pace and pant, just like Desi.  Henley who had never been bothered by them was suddenly hyper-vigilant about them too, coming to get me as soon as my neighbors started setting them off in mid-June, and becoming fixated on looking and listening for them every evening as the 4th of July became imminent. 

The year Ozzie turned ten, I researched ear protection for dogs as his behavior after the fireworks on New Year's Eve was enough to make me want to do something preemptively before July rolled around.  Why ear protection if his hearing was going?  Because I knew he heard some things and I knew I could control what he saw by keeping him indoors with the blinds closed.  All that would be left was waiting to see if removing what he saw and heard was enough to overcome what he felt if there were visceral level "booms."  I figured getting Henley used to wearing ear protection now was a good idea as well since it seems my run of "my dogs don't care one way or the other about fireworks" was over.

I spent a bit of time every day for several weeks, putting the noise canceling headphones on Ozzie and Henley, pairing wearing them with high value treats and praise.  It didn't take long for them to acclimate to the headphones, with both dogs just falling asleep while wearing them.  I knew that the headphones really worked when I opened up food containers in the kitchen nearby and neither dog came to investigate!  What they couldn't see (they were in the other room) and couldn't hear, wasn't happening.  Success!  By the time the 4th of July rolled around that year, both dogs had been wearing their headphones in the evening for a couple of weeks.  If I kept the boys inside with the blinds closed and their headphones on, they were fine, sleeping the festivities away on their beds.  That was until this year's 250th celebration.

This year, the fireworks were of the sonic-boom variety, going off for several hours from before it got dark until well past 2 a.m.  While I can appreciate that my community wanted to celebrate, the air was filled with smoke and many dogs in my neighborhood were clearly agitated based on the barking and howling, not to mention my neighbor who is a veteran of the Iraq war. He told me the next day that his PTSD was off the charts and I felt awful for him.  When he bent down to hug Ozzie and tell him he knew how he felt, my heart broke into a million pieces.  I know my dogs and my neighbor aren't the only ones who suffer and that makes this a big deal.  We need community education beyond the obvious "fireworks are illegal in Contra Costa County" signs and messages.  A move on a bigger level to drone displays would go a long way to change people's minds about fireworks.  A move to drones would also mean less haze and air pollution and reduce fire risk in our already compromised state where fire season never really ends.  I've seen drone shows and think they are spectacular.  Let's all hope that they are the wave of the future.

As always, if you questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Here's Henley on the 4th of July relaxing on a dog bed while fireworks are going off outside.  He kept them on all night, even when he hunkered down in his crate in my bedroom to sleep. It's sad that he has to wear them, but a relief that it works for him nonetheless.

Hello My Name Is...

Did you start singing when you read the title of this week's blog post?  When I was thinking about this week's blog topic, that song popped into my head and then it just stuck there!

When you are naming your dog, there are a couple of good rules to keep in mind.  Two syllable names are often the best choice as they allow you, the human, to change the pitch of your voice when addressing your dog, which can help grab your dog's attention and let them know your intent.  What type of inflection you use lets your dog know if you are happy with them, displeased, etc.  While a lot of dog owners will opt for one syllable names, these often become two syllable nicknames in the long run because, again, two syllable names allow for those pitch changes that one syllable names do not. So, what are one syllable names good for? They are good for grabbing attention in situations where there are a lot of distractions.  And for those folks choosing longer, multi-syllable names for their dogs, you just need to know that you will likely be shortening said name or going with a nickname anyway.  And you know what?  Dogs are good with that too!  Most of us use nicknames for our dogs and it doesn't confuse them or keep them from responding. It's just one more amazing attribute of dogs.

Last week, I heard from a new puppy owner who was concerned that perhaps his name choice for the new dog would be confusing given how the name sounded like the word, "no."  I once had a client whose dog came with the name "Jess" and she had similar concerns since Jess sounds like "yes."  The bottom line?  It really doesn't matter as dogs use context with our verbal cues; they use our body language, including facial expressions, as much as, if not more than, the actual words we say.  So, while the name "Beau" sounds like "no," for example, your dog isn't going to get confused if you give them a stern "NO!"  I will say, however, that if you want to avoid sounding like Dr. Seuss when talking to your dog, you might want to steer clear of the one syllable names that sound a lot like commands you might give your dog. "Hey! Kit Sit," being a good example! 

I think the bigger take home message with this one is that you really want to think more about how you use "no" and "yes." Overuse of either can dilute the value.  Plus, you also run the risk of not giving your dog enough context to understand what they did that you liked or didn't like.  The word "no" in and of itself lacks information. Sure, if you yell it at your dog, they're likely to stop what they are doing momentarily, but truthfully? You could yell "Rot!" and they'd stop momentarily for that as well, because they'd be responding to the tone of your voice more so than the word itself.  So, rather than saying "No!" tell your dog what they should be doing instead.  For example, if your puppy has grabbed your new running shoe, don't just tell her "NO!"  Instead, tell her to "drop it!" and then trade her your shoe for a toy or bone instead.  Basically, don't chew my shoes, chew on your own stuff. I prefer "leave it!" and "drop it" to a generic "no" every time.  Now, if your dog bolts the front door and is heading for a busy street, then definitely yell "NO!"  If you don't overuse that word, they will absolutely stop dead in their tracks, just long enough for you to collect them before they head into harm's way.

I love the process of coming up with names for my dogs.  I like to think about their personality traits and about my goals or aspirations for them.  I always joke that people who name their pets after questionably behaved characters in literature or movies often end up with adult animals who live up to their names. Any of you remember the movie, "Gremlins?" The cute, little creature in that movie was named "Gizmo." Funny thing though: If you got him wet, exposed him to bright lights, or fed him after midnight, he changed into something less than cute and cuddly, wreaking havoc and leaving destruction in his wake.  I had a client who named her Shih Tzu puppy "Gizmo" because he looked just like the sweet movie character.  Funny thing though.  When he tore up her couch, managed to rip down the curtains, and took a chunk out of an antique table leg, he resembled a gremlin more than she would have liked!  

Share the story of how your dog got their name, and as always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Here is sweet Westley, "Midnight's As You Wish," named after the iconic prince in the movie, "The Princess Bride," one of my daughter's favorites.  Westley absolutely lived up to his name with behavior and characteristics befitting his namesake: He was kind, chivalrous, and always a gentleman. He loved fiercely, was loyal to a fault, and was reliable and steady. Aptly named indeed.

Wedding Season!

Whether you are planning a wedding or getting ready for some other type of big celebration like a birthday party or graduation get-together, you may be trying to figure out if you should include your dog in the festivities or not. Whether that means as a participant wearing a bow tie or ribbon and walking down the aisle with a basket of flowers or carrying the rings at your wedding, or simply as a guest hanging out with the other invited guests, should be predicated on how well your dog does with following directions and with how much they like being included in potentially chaotic situations. There's nothing like a festive family gathering to potentially stress out your dog (and you!). Obviously, big parties and social events are not for every dog.  Many folks opt to leave their dogs with sitters or at boarding facilities when they have major family commitments, while others will want to include their dogs because they are viewed as truly important family members.  Either way, if you are considering having your dog join you for any major event, let's talk about how to prepare them so that they can be as successful as possible.  

First, be honest with yourself. If your main reason for including your dog in your big event is the cute photo op for Instagram, then you're likely going to be disappointed. Dogs, much like children, are best captured in photos where they are permitted to be themselves. The best wedding photos I've ever seen that included the dog were the ones where the dog fell asleep under a table at the reception, or was caught napping on the bride's train.  Those are 100% things dogs do! Posing, facing the camera, sitting up straight for a group picture is not something most dogs will do.  At least not repeatedly with a professional photographer staring in their face. If your dog doesn't really like loud noises like clapping and cheering, unfamiliar people staring at them or petting them, and isn't trustworthy not to lift a leg on a guest's chair, sample food from the buffet, or jump on a party guest, then they probably should sit out your big event.  You don't want the main thing folks remember about your big day to be "that crazy dog they insisted upon including!"

It's one thing to have your dog be an attendee at a big event and it's quite another to have them participate.  As a simple attendee, your dog has more freedom of movement than if they are actually expected to participate.  For example, if your dog will be walking with you down the aisle:  Will they be on leash or off leash?  Walking on your left or your right?  Will they be wearing something like a tie or ribbon?  Are they supposed to carry something in their mouth or around their neck?  Each of these behaviors requires training, repetition, and of course big rewards! Plus, you need to be prepared to improvise just in case they decide not to comply when the big day arrives.  And even if your dog loves wearing a bow tie and can easily walk with you leash or not down the aisle, what about after that?  Are they able to sit or lay quietly through the rest of the ceremony?  Will they also be attending the reception?  Because if they are, you'll need to work with them on appropriate party behavior: No table surfing, no begging for food, no running, no barking, and no rambunctious play.  And if your dog is sensitive to loud noises, again, they may need to sit out the dancing and music in favor of a quiet place away from the noise to rest.  You can certainly train a dog not to table surf or beg for snacks, but you can't really change the way they view loud music and rowdy dancing.

My own dogs have attended many birthday parties and graduation celebrations over the years.  I allow them to participate as much or as little as they choose to, meaning they always have an exit if the party gets too loud or there are too many people for their comfort.  The last graduation party we had at our house, Westley and Desi were still alive. Westley chose to participate in the entire proceedings, following my daughter around, engaging with guests, and doing tricks for treats.  Ozzie participated for a short period of time, visiting with people he knew, checking to make sure the gate was closed, and noshing on ice cubes from the barrel filled with cool drinks, before retiring to a room inside away from the celebration.  Desi, although generally a social butterfly, chose to say hi when guests arrived, but then retreated indoors to nap away from the festivities and that was fine too.  I didn't push my dogs and they behaved as I expected them to.  They made it into quite a few candid photos, but I didn't ask them to pose for the less than candid pictures. By all accounts the event was a success.

As many of you know, my daughter is getting married next year and several of you have asked if her dog, Zelly, will be a flower girl or otherwise participate in the proceedings. Here's the answer:  Zelly will not be participating, nor will she be attending, and not because she isn't the sweetest girl, or because she doesn't love people and parties, because she does!  She isn't being included because having her there would be unnecessarily distracting for my daughter.  She would worry about Zelly's safety because their event space has streams, narrow bridges, and occasional wildlife nearby.  Zelly participated actively in the surprise proposal, but she will be sitting out the wedding with a trusted housesitter, in the company of Ozzie and Henley.  She won't feel like she's missing anything and I'll know my daughter isn't worrying about her safety.  That's a win for everybody.  In the meantime, I'm teaching Zelly to pick up and carry items, just for fun.  Who knows?  Maybe down the road she'll be picking up a child's dropped toys for my daughter.  A grandmother can dream, right?

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Here's sweet Desi at the graduation party, just hanging out, keeping an eye on the festivities and the food table!

To Serve and Protect

For some reason, the last week and a half has included several appointments for dogs who seem to be taking their job as "protector of the humans" very seriously.  There's the dog who won't let anyone near the baby (including the grandparents), the dog who body blocks anyone who approaches his mom on walks, and the dog who won't let his dad get into bed because he's laying next to mom there already.  While we were able to come up with workable solutions in all of these cases, there are a few big takeaways I'd like to share with all of you, whether your dog engages in this type of behavior or not.  Why?  Because all dogs are protective; it's simply in their DNA.  Some just express the behavior more readily, but all dogs are alert to changes in human behavior that might indicate that their humans require backup or support, either in the form of barking, body blocking, or outright aggressive behavior.  This inherently watchful behavior by dogs is very likely one of the reasons that early humans actively sought out relationships with them in the first place.

When people ask me how to teach their dog to protect them or to keep an eye on their kids, I'm always quick to respond that dogs do that naturally, no training required!  Sure, there are people out there who train dogs for protection work, police work, and military, and dogs used for those jobs are selected specifically for their inherent drive and overtly protective behavior.  Their natural behaviors are honed and rewarded, bringing them more to surface where they can be expressed and controlled appropriately by an experienced handler.  For the rest of us, we don't need a protection dog; we just need to know how to utilize and appropriately control the dog we already have.

First and foremost, it isn't cute if your dog blocks people you want hugging you or touching you from being able to do so safely.  It also isn't desirable that your dog protects your baby or kids to the point that the nanny, babysitter, or the grandparents don't feel safe approaching your kids.  You will need to step in and manage this behavior as soon as you see it; don't write it off as a "one off" as that first occurrence is just the tip of the iceberg.  If you ignore or excuse the behavior, you are opening yourself up to a lot of liability as the next instance of the behavior may include an escalation to a snap or bite. Let's look at a couple of specific examples:

You are having guests to your house to meet your new baby.  Your dog runs to the door and begins barking when the guests arrive.  When you tell him quiet, he doesn't stop, instead choosing to crowd folks at the doorway, standing between them and you holding the baby.  What should you do?  Well, you definitely shouldn't ignore him and you definitely don't want to reprimand him either.  Ignoring is an invitation to persist and reprimanding will just lead to a dog that doesn't give any warnings about their intentions. Instead, stop everything and attend to your dog.  Put your dog on a leash and lead him to his bed or mat away from the door and tell him to stay.  Return to your guests and your greetings.  If your dog remains there, reward him! If he gets up and comes back to block you from your guests or begins barking again, grab that leash and lead him to a time out in another room. Leave him in the time out for 3-5 minutes, only returning to let him out again, on leash, when he's quiet.  If he in any way tries to body block you or micromanage the guests holding the baby, again, remove him to his bed or mat and tell him to stay.  He can be watchful from that position just fine. Again, if he breaks the stay, off to a time out and so on until he can learn to settle down and follow directions given by you. In this example, the dog at no time was given unlimited power, nor was he rewarded for his overtly protective behaviors. Instead, he was rewarded for listening and compliance with directives aimed at calming him.  Even if you don't have a baby and your dog blocks you from your relatives, friends, or significant other, do these same exercises outlined above.  Your dog needs to know that you will be the one to tell him if you need his backup. 

One more example:  You and your dog have been a duo for quite some time, but now you are seeing someone new and talking about moving in together, but your dog isn't a fan.  She is constantly getting up on the couch between you and your girlfriend, walking between you, jumping up to block hugs and kisses, and growling when your girlfriend tries to climb in bed.  This isn't funny, nor will it get better with time and familiarity alone.  Your dog needs to realize that whether she likes it or not, you've chosen this new person.  First up, is changing the way your dog views your girlfriend. Have your girlfriend feed meals, including hand-feeding.  Only your girlfriend can give your dog treats and she should be the one holding your dog's leash on walks.  When your dog tries to body block on the furniture or invade your space during a hug, correct her, but don't punish her.  Tell her "nuh uh" or "nope" and take her to her bed or mat and give her something else to do (a bone, a toy, or a chew is fine) and tell her to stay.  Return to sitting together or to your hug.  If your dog gets up and approaches, stop her before she gets to you with a "nuh uh" or "nope" again and send her back to her place. If she goes there on her own, great. If she doesn't then it's out of the room for a time out of 3-5 minutes.  Repeat this until your dog can either sit quietly waiting for attention from both of you (big rewards!) or she can remain on her bed or mat in place with something else to do.  For bedtime, your dog should not be allowed to sleep on the bed anymore, regardless of whether your girlfriend is there or not.  If you continue to allow your dog on the bed when the two of you are home alone, she will view not being on the bed when your girlfriend is there as punishment and resent your girlfriend. If, instead, we just implement a new rule of "no dogs on the bed," your dog won't love the idea, but at least the loss of bed privileges won't be associated directly with your girlfriend's presence.  We might not be able to make your dog love your girlfriend, but at least we can get your dog to respect her and understand that she is a second source for treats, food, and attention.

I hope this helps any of you going through similar situations with your dogs.  Dogs who overtly or covertly protect their owners aren't bad dogs, misbehaved dogs, or aggressive dogs.  They are dogs who need to be taught boundaries and limits so that they can still do their job with those rules in place.

As always, if you have questions about your dog's behavior, you know where to find me.

Henley is my shadow he's always nearby and often at my feet which is fine most of the time as I live alone with two dogs.  When people come over, he will definitely try to insert himself for attention and needs to be reminded where he is supposed to be. He may try to lay at my feet between me and someone I'm visiting with, so if that happens, I have him move to a different spot and give him something else to do.  He's never behaved aggressively toward anyone, but he is a big male dog and he can be imposing. I don't doubt for a second that he'd protect me if I needed his help. It's my job to make sure that he understands when that's appropriate and when it's not.

It Must Be June!

I say that "it must be June" because I've received almost a dozen calls and emails already from clients who want to know what I recommend for their specific pets as they, the humans, are headed on summer vacations. I try really hard not to say, "You really should have thought about this sooner!" and instead focus on what options might be available given the needs of their individual pets.  Let me give you a couple of examples:

A pet with separation anxiety: If your pet can't be left alone, then having a drop in sitter or using a traditional boarding kennel isn't going to work for you.  You will need to find either a petsitter who can stay at your home full-time while you are away, or a boarding facility that has around-the-clock staff so your pet won't ever be completely alone.  I realize that a full-time sitter or boarding option with 24-hour care is going to be more expensive, however, it will be worth it for peace of mind for both you and your pet.  Don't get me wrong: It's still going to be anxiety-provoking for your pet that you are gone, but that 24-hour care ensures that your pet will be safe and well-cared for.

A geriatric pet:  Older pets just need more care. It might mean slower, shorter walks for a senior dog.  It might mean medications given at specific times of day.  It could mean T-touch sessions for sore muscles and joints, or sessions on a t-PEMF mat for relief from pain and inflammation. It could mean dealing with middle of the night bathroom breaks, cleaning up toileting accidents, or washing pet incontinence items throughout the day.  It might mean reassuring an older pet that they are safe and loved when they experience sundowner's in the evening hours.  Because senior pets often don't see, hear, or move as confidently as they did when they were younger, keeping them in a familiar environment is often the best option when you are away on vacation. This could mean staying home with a petsitter in place, or staying at a friend or relative's house that is as familiar and comfortable for your pet as your home is. 

A special needs pet:  If you have a pet who is blind, deaf, missing a limb, has a medical condition like seizures, is seriously immune compromised, or on a very restricted diet, you will need to choose an option for them in your absence that ensures that they will be safe.  If you are leaving your pet somewhere other than your home, look at that situation from their point of view.  If they are blind or missing a limb, for example, then staying with a friend or caregiver who has stairs is likely not a great option.  If your pet is on a heavily restricted diet, staying with someone who free-feeds their own pets, or isn't particularly careful about human food left out and around, isn't going to be the best choice for your pet.  And if your pet has seizures, the stress of you being gone might trigger a seizure, so best to have them staying with someone who provides around the clock care, just in case.

Boarding facilities have come a long way since I was a kid.  Back then, boarding facilities meant dogs kept in runs and cats kept in cages 24 hours a day that were hosed or cleaned out once to twice daily and into which food bowls were offered once to twice daily as well.  That was it. Now, you can find boarding facilities where dogs are never caged or confined until bedtime at night. During the day, they are involved in daycare activities with friendly humans and other, well socialized dogs.  Some of these facilities have actual rooms where dogs board that look nothing like a cage or dog run, but more like a little, doggie hotel room.  And even where the boarding facilities use cages or kennels, many of them have spaces that are temperature controlled, use music and/or fans for comfort, and have cameras set up to keep an eye on it all in the absence of a human on site.  Clearly, while these facilities can be a great option for some pets, they aren't for those listed above or for dogs who aren't well-socialized or who don't like other dogs (have issues in aggression or reactivity).

There are people who provide petsitting in their own homes for their clients, and others who will petsit for you in your home.  If your pet will be staying at a petsitter's home, do a trial run before your actual vacation to make sure your pet is comfortable there.  If your pet will be staying at home with a petsitter coming in to watch them, make sure your pet knows this person and has spent time with them before you leave for your vacation.  You don't want any surprises!  Funny little side story:  When I first got out of college, I did a lot of housesitting to earn money to help with graduate school expenses.  I was housesitting for a cat owner whom I knew really well.  Her cat loved me at the vet hospital where we met, crawling across the counter of the hospital to sit in my lap or wanting to be held by me at their appointments.  We thought this would be a great fit when she left for three weeks to Europe that summer. Well, lo and behold, that's not what her cat thought.  While I cleaned the litter box twice a day, fed and provided fresh water, set out toys and treats, I never actually saw the cat the whole time the owner was gone.  The cat hid in a closet or under the bed until I left the house for work and would wait until I went to bed at night to come out to eat, play, etc.  It made me so sad as I thought this cat and I were buddies!  Truth of the matter was this: We were buddies on my turf (the vet hospital) but on her home turf, I was an interloper and nothing more.  Needless to say, the owner was as surprised as I was when she got back from her trip and found out that I never was able to brush her cat while she was gone. I never even got to pet the cat!  

Finally, some people opt to bring their pets along on vacation, rather than leaving them behind.  I've vacationed with my dogs many times over the years and we've always had a good time.  I begin traveling with my dogs when they are puppies so that the concept of long car rides, staying in unfamiliar spaces, and being on leash more isn't stressful for them. The only dog we've ever had that didn't like to go on road trips was Desi.  He was quite the homebody, preferring to stay home and leave the adventures to the other dogs.  We did take him on a road trip one time and he enjoyed a few of the activities, but for the most part he made it clear he'd have rather stayed home.  Now that Ozzie has gotten older, he's got some health issues that make long car rides uncomfortable for him.  Because of that, I prefer to have a housesitter stay in my home to care for him while I'm gone.  Henley is great on road trips and is always up for an adventure, but for now, I leave him home as well so Ozzie has company when the housesitter isn't there with them. And I never plan a vacation until I've secured a petsitter for my dogs. If I can't arrange for my daughter, one of her friends, or one of my friends to come stay at my house when I'm gone, then I simply don't leave.  My dogs are my responsibility. I owe it to them to make sure that they are comfortable and well-cared for always.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

The kids and I took Ozzie and Desi on a summer road trip to southern Oregon.  They both loved the cooler weather and exploring all of the smells along the coastline.  Ozzie loved the airbnb where we stayed as he enjoyed running up and down the stairs.  Desi hated the stairs so much that he stayed with the kids in the downstairs rooms, only venturing upstairs at mealtimes.  They both loved the garden, which ended up being a good thing as Desi could stay at the airbnb and nap in the garden while we took Ozzie on the long hikes that he loved, but Desi hated. Two very different collies!

In Defense of People Food

I was working with a new client this week and her adolescent dog. While reviewing ways to keep her young dog attentive and focused, I mentioned changing up the treats she was giving, opting for something really high value like hot dogs or string cheese.  She looked at me horrified and said she'd never given her dog "people food" because she didn't want him begging for it all the time.  I found this incredibly amusing as you might imagine because giving a dog a high value reward in the form of  "people food" should not result in a dog that begs at your table.  I could see we were actually going to need to address more than one issue with this dog and owner.

First let's just clear the air on "people food."  I don't like to use that phrase because, frankly, it's all just food.  While there are certainly foods that we as humans can eat like grapes, raisins, onions, and chocolate, we all know dogs can't have them.  Beyond the list of foods that they can't have, there are so many that they can have and that are actually good for them.  Foods like green beans, zucchini, pumpkin, and blueberries are all healthy choices you can share with your dogs without guilt.  They can also, however, enjoy plain Greek yogurt, lower fat cheeses, and cottage cheese.  As a treat, they can have hot dogs, and meats like ground beef, ground turkey, and ground chicken that can all be given as long as you've not added salt or spices when cooking. Yes, you can even offer a dog a chip, french fry, or pretzel, on occasion, without feeling guilty about doing so. Here's the thing:  Moderation is key.  Dog owners who never share what they are eating or preparing with their dogs often have dogs who not only crave/beg for those things, they have dogs who are constantly on the lookout for them.  These dogs often are the worst scavengers on walks, refusing to leave fallen food items, preferring to swallow them quickly rather than drop them on request.  These dogs are also often the ones with frequent gastrointestinal issues, especially around the holidays. Why? Because they are constantly scavenging for the forbidden foods and will find them, often on an unattended guest's plate, and scarf them down before anyone notices.  Some of these dogs may even end up with a serious medical issue like pancreatitis because of their behavior.  

One of my dearest friends and favorite dog trainers always tells her clients to prime their dog's pump.  What does she mean by this? She means, give them a little bit of the foods you eat and that they can safely have, so that they aren't constantly seeking them out; they already know you will share.  Doing so also means that their digestive tracts have been exposed to these foods and thus won't be irritated when presented with that food again.  Now, obviously, if your dog has serious food allergies you will be even more mindful of what they are eating, but most dogs can have at least a few of the foods I suggested above as safe to share.

So, now that we've established that you can share some of your food with your dog, WHEN you share with them is key.  Sharing from the table, for example, may result in a dog who hangs around the table, circling like a hungry hyena.  Sharing from the kitchen counter while you are preparing foods may also result in a dog who is constantly underfoot.  If, instead, you have your dog rest on their mat or bed away from the table and the kitchen prep area, and then reward them for their quiet stay in place after your meal is done or the prep is complete, you will have a dog with whom you can share tidbits of food as part of your ongoing training with them. You are training them and sharing yummy, high value treats that really reinforce the learning.

Just in case you were wondering if I practice what I preach:  I do have my dogs rest on their beds during meals and during food prep.  I will also call them over periodically, have them do something cute for me, and then give them a bite, before sending them back to place.  Why?  Because I like knowing that they will come when called, and return to place as directed, despite the presence of those obvious yummy snacks.  I also make my dogs fun treats like frozen lick mats covered in a mixture of peanut butter, Greek yogurt, and blueberries. I also make my dogs "pupsicles," basically liquid yogurt with berries added and then frozen in popsicle molds.  I put a tablespoon of canned pumpkin on their meals, and will often add a tablespoon of cottage cheese or Greek yogurt for variety. 

I've discovered over the years that dogs, just like people, are made up of some adventurous eaters and some who don't veer far from their tried and true favorites.  Henley and Zelly are adventurous eaters.  They forage in my gardens for warm, fresh berries right off of the bushes.  Both of them love zucchini and apples, and Zelly even loves spinach! Ozzie surfs my strawberry pots every morning without fail, but he doesn't bother with the blueberry bushes as they are a lot of work!  Zelly, on the other hand, loves the challenge and will poke her head in the blueberry bushes and pluck her prizes one at a time. While sweet Desi loved pumpkin and strawberries and any kind of meat or cheese, he hated vegetables!  If you tried to give him green beans or zucchini, he'd pick around them every time. 

Back to my client and her adolescent dog.  We worked on teaching her dog where he was supposed to be while she cooked and ate meals.  We gave him a frozen lick mat initially to reinforce place, but over time she'll be able to phase that out and give periodic rewards to him.  If he gets up and approaches the table or kitchen, he gets one reminder on where he's supposed to be and if he doesn't do so, it's off to a time out.  When she introduced string cheese to her training games, he became so much more animated and successful.  Tiny little bits of cheese had him finally able to do long line recall, stay for longer than a few seconds, and she was even using cheese to groom him, an activity he'd always hated.  A little cheese goes a long way!

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Here's Westley waiting patiently for a "pupcake" my daughter made for him.  This was from a recipe for a shareable peanut butter, applesauce, and apple muffin. She topped it with fresh strawberries, a favorite of all of our collies.