How Long Wil It Take To Fix This?

I get asked this question all the time.  Sometimes I am asked during the first phone call. When people ask this question before we've even met in person where I can evaluate their pet and make my recommendations, I get the feeling they are shopping around for the answer they want to hear.  I'm pretty sure I won't have that answer for them, nor are there guarantees when it comes to treating, resolving, or managing behavior problems. And if you've given yourself some sort of arbitrary timeline for resolution, that's a recipe for disappointment.  While I understand your frustration that your dog is still jumping on guests, barking at people walking past your house, growling when you try to step around her, and lunging at people and dogs walking past her, there aren't any quick fixes for any of those problems.  I do empathize with your predicament; finding someone to care for your dog when you go on vacation in two weeks will be difficult, but rushing treatment, putting a shock collar on your dog, or just neglecting to tell your housesitter/daycare provider/boarding staff that your dog has these issues is a potential liability for you. So, while I won't give you a specific amount of time it will take to work through your pet's behavior problem, I can give you a general idea of what it will take to relieve some of the pressure your pet is obviously experiencing.

If it's a relatively new issue and you're trying to get a handle on it right away, there's a chance that we may be able to at least devise a few "work arounds" to get you both back on track.  And if you've got a couple of months to devote to implementing those work arounds so that you can get behavior change, then you should be on your way. If, on the other hand, the behavior you want fixed has been going on for a long time (or is actually getting worse), then it will certainly take longer to resolve. 

You will also want to look at the issue from your pet's point of view. How does the behavior serve them?  Contrary to popular opinion, our pets don't just do things to drive us nuts; they do those behaviors because those behaviors work to get them what they want.  They beg at the table because someone feeds them there.  They counter-surf because they find snacks there that they can reach.  They bark and paw for attention because people pet them when they do. Often the first step in helping your pet overcome a behavior problem lies in you adjusting your behavior and your expectations. 

We know how hard it is to change our own behavior.  Ask anyone who's quit smoking or started a new exercise routine.  Changing behavior takes patience and perseverance. You won't lose 10 lbs. in a week and your dog won't quit pulling on the leash after one hour of instruction. In an hour session, you can certainly learn the strategies that will help your dog to stop pulling on the leash, but it will take frequent short training sessions done by you and your dog to resolve the problem completely.  You see, you can't just yank your dog back, stop walking, and tell them not to pull. You have to tell them what it is you want them to be doing instead and reward them for making that choice when on leash, versus dragging you down the street!

Finally, you need to take into consideration the fact that we all learn at our own pace.  While your neighbor may have been able to get his dog to immediately stop barking by putting that shock collar on him, you have to know that if that collar wasn't on the dog, the dog would resume barking.  Shock collars don't "cure" barking problems; they just punish the dog for doing something that comes naturally to dogs (barking!).  If you don't teach your dog when it's okay to bark, and when they need to be quiet, and what the consequences are for making the right choices (as well as the wrong ones), they won't learn the difference and the barking will persist.  

With some behaviors you are trying to curb, you may notice your pet getting frustrated or overwhelmed as evidenced by their yawning, scratching, lip licking, or trying to move away.  If your pet is anxious or overwhelmed, take a break.  Figure out why they are frustrated.  Are you moving too quickly through the treatment plan?  Or are you moving so slowly that your pet is bored and frustrated?  Frequent, short sessions work the best, regardless of the problem you are trying to resolve.

I am always excited to work with new clients trying to resolve issues they are facing with their pets.  And I love working with my returning clients who seek me out for refreshers, help with new issues that occur right as they crop up, and seek my help preventatively with their new puppies and kittens.  If we work together as a team, we have the best chance for success regardless of the time frame you are working within. 

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

You might recognize these two sweethearts as they regularly appear on my Facebook page.  Bella, the Rottie, is 5 years old and Loki, the Labradoodle, is 2 years old.  Both have been working with me since they were puppies.  I see Bella once a month now and Loki once every week to two weeks.  For their owners, this is a chance to reinforce good behavior, work on new behaviors to keep their dogs challenged and engaged, and address any questions that may have arisen.  I love both of these dogs as much as my own!

Just a Quick Story

So, I am down in Los Angeles this week, visiting with my kids who are all Southern California residents now.  I walked to a neighborhood cafe to pick up lunch and enjoy a lovely stroll through this neighborhood with its jacaranda-lined streets and eclectic businesses. As I was waiting for my lunch, I sat at one of their outdoor tables to soak up the sun and people watch.  A woman with a young dog walked my way and sat at the table next to me.  She smiled tentatively and told me she liked my shirt (of course, my shirt had a collie on it!) and went back to trying to get her dog to settle down.  The dog was clearly anxious about all of the people, strollers, and cars going by which made me a bit sad, but I mind my own business in situations like this.  I never give unsolicited advice and I never intrude.  What happened next changed everything.

A young man walked by with his Labrador puppy.  This puppy was clearly having the time of his life, sniffing everything he could reach and bounding toward every passerby.  When this pair moved past the tables where we were sitting, the woman's dog flew out from under the table, making an aggressive grab for the puppy.  Luckily, the man jerked his puppy away before any contact could be made, and the woman apologized profusely, grabbing her dog's collar and dragging her back under the table where they were sitting.  People around us began to give her disapproving looks (this is a very dog-centric, urban neighborhood) and she made comments about just waiting for her order and then she'd be out of their hair.  I glanced over to see her dog furtively looking at me, so I slowly dropped by hands down at my sides.  She crept out of her hiding spot and sniffed my hand, nudging it for a pat.  I stroked her chin gently and her eyes closed and she sighed.  Her owner looked surprised.  I said, "Well, I won't tell you that I'm a dog person, because I absolutely hate when people say that.  But, I will say that I am fluent in dog and your dog is clearly anxious and looking for an out, which I'm happy to oblige!" She asked me if I would hold her dog's leash while she quickly ran inside to pick up her order which was now done.  Her dog didn't move as she got up to go in the building.  

When the owner came back out, she sat down rather defeated.  She said she felt overwhelmed by her dog and wasn't sure what to do, but since I clearly was a dog person (despite what I had said, lol!), she wondered if I thought her dog was a menace too.  So, I did what I never do; I told a stranger on the street my thoughts! I told her that her dog wasn't a menace and that she could help her dog by changing her behavior first.  I suggested that she walk her dog at off peak times and off peak places given that this dog is clearly anxious in busy, social settings.  She could work on getting her dog to sniff and explore and focus on her rather than people and cars going by.  I suggested that she work at a distance from other dogs that felt comfortable for them both.  I didn't think her dog was dog aggressive per se, but simply over-stimulated by her surroundings and lashing out from a place of fear and anxiety rather than overt aggression.  I told her that had she been observing her dog from the outside looking in, she would understand that this dog hadn't felt comfortable or safe, probably from the moment they turned onto this busy street, with the anxiety peaking the moment the owner sat down at a table on the sidewalk. The reason her dog felt safe approaching me was that I hadn't approached her, rather giving her an opening (my hand dropped at my side) should she decide she wanted to interact with me.  Then, I had stroked her under the chin (non-threatening on my part) and avoided direct eye contact.  That's why her dog was relaxed with me, enough to stay with me while the owner went inside for her takeout order. 

The owner was nodding at this point and asked where I had learned all of this and could I recommend whoever I used for my dogs because she bet that my dogs "were utterly delightful and well-behaved." This made me laugh as while I definitely think my dogs are both of those things, they aren't perfect.  No one is, really.  Then I told her I had to come clean and tell her what I did for a living. She was practically giddy until I told her I was simply in the neighborhood visiting my daughter.  Before she could become deflated yet again, I did tell her that I work with clients remotely and would be happy to schedule a time to work with her.  She lit up again and put my phone number and email address into her phone immediately.  I sent her a quick link right then to my blog and told her to listen to her dog always and watch for those cues indicating that she was becoming anxious.  Not all dogs are social butterflies, and it's not a requirement that they love every person, dog, or situation they encounter.  Urban dogs, however, do need to be able to navigate those situations safely and she needs to build up what her dog is able to tolerate, adjusting for those situations where it is just in everyone's best interest that the dog stay home.

Needless to say, my order was done by this point, and one of the cafe employees came out to see why I hadn't picked up my bag yet!  I took if from her, thanked her for the "curb service," and invited the dog owner to walk with me so she could have a less stressful exit from her table where other patrons were still glancing her way. I made goofy, distracting sounds which made her dog perk up, wagging her tail and focus on me as we moved away from the cafe.  The owner shook my hand with both of hers and they headed up the street, while I crossed and headed my own way.  While I had thought today would be my day off, it turns out the universe had other plans for me, and I'm okay with that.  I hope I hear from this woman again, and if I don't, I hope it's because implementing my simple suggestions was enough to get them off to a better start on their relationship.

Okay, back to my sandwich and mystery novel.  I'll be back in work mode by the weekend.  

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me. 

Couldn't have said it better myself.

Living With Aggression

It's been a busy week and unfortunately several appointments have involved helping dog owners dealing with aggression.  It's incredibly difficult for many dog owners to face the reality of life with an aggressive dog.  Even though the majority of dogs experiencing aggression aren't aggressive all the time (in fact most aggressive dogs are seemingly fine right up until the point that they are not), the often unpredictability of the behavior makes long term management challenging. And the bottom line is this:  Whether a dog owner will be able to manage their aggressive dog's behavior depends on several factors.  Depending on how you decide to break down the different ways dogs can behave aggressively (i.e. the motivation behind the behavior), most people agree that they are at least 14 different types of aggression seen in dogs. Some of those forms of aggression may be easier to manage, while others may simply be deal breakers for the dog owners.  And no matter what anyone says, the decision regarding whether to manage a dog with aggression, and how that will work for you and your family, are decisions that only you can make.  No one should ever pass judgement on you one way or the other, whether you decide to manage the dog, give the dog up, or humanely euthanize them. Only you know whether you are in a position to make management feasible.  Let's look at a few examples that I've seen recently.  I've changed a few details to protect the privacy of my clients as that's another thing about dealing with aggressive dogs; their owners are sad, aggravated, devastated, furious, frustrated, and embarrassed, feeling singled out by their family members, neighbors, friends, etc. 

One of the young dogs I saw this week suffers from resource guarding aggression .  He guards his bed, one of his favorite toys, and real bones.  He's fine with having his food and food bowl handled, doesn't care about his body being groomed or his nails trimmed.  Occasionally he will growl if you wake him up on the sofa, but that doesn't happen all time.  I've asked the owners to take away the favored toy permanently and not give him any real bones ever again.  I've asked them to bring his crate back inside from the garage and start using it again.  He always loved his crate and used to nap in there regularly.  The humans removed the crate because it took up space in their family room.  By bringing the crate back and putting the dog's bed back in the crate, his protection of his space will be easier to accommodate and manage.  If the dog is in his crate, they can just leave him alone.  Interestingly enough, he never once guarded the bed when it was in the crate previously.  I've asked them to redirect him off of the sofa when he first jumps up there, but if he's asleep when they find him there, they need to make a noise at a distance that wakes him up and then redirect him off the sofa and to his crate to nap.  My hope is that by returning the crate to this dog, he'll feel less anxious about where he's sleeping.  He may miss his favorite toy and real bones for a while, but he'll get over it. Like many dogs, he has a ton of other toys to play with and can get his chewing time in on bully sticks, frozen Kongs, Nylabones, etc. that he never guards.  Luckily, I saw this dog before he escalated from freezing, growling, snapping to lunging and biting.  That isn't always the case, however. Sometimes I don't hear from owners until someone has been bitten.  Or a few someones have been bitten :(

Another client has a young adult dog who has now bitten four people; three of these bites occurred to gardeners, repair people, or delivery folks.  The fourth bite occurred when they took the dog to their kid's baseball tournament.  They had been advised to use an electronic/shock collar on the dog after the first bite, so that's what they've been doing.  The dog wears the electronic collar all the time and receives varying levels of shocks for any aggressive behavior.  The dog was shocked for each of the three subsequent bites after being fitted with the collar in the first place.  The dog's behavior is not improving and the last bite happened to someone who actually knows me and suggested that these dog owners seek professional help.   I sent these owner instructions on muzzle training their dog before our appointment.  When I arrived the dog was muzzled and happily trotting around in their yard.  I explained the liability involved with keeping a dog like this long term and that they need to change the way they view this dog; yes, she is a family member, but where she can go and what situations they put her in needs to be restricted.  She is crate trained, so she should be in her crate anytime they have workers in their home or yard.  When she is walked, she needs to wear her muzzle.  She should not be taken to places like ball games where people congregate and will approach without much warning.  You can't change other people's behavior, but you can change what you force your dog to deal with.  This dog has zero interest in meeting new people; she likes who she likes and she loves her family.  She has protective aggression and territorial aggression.  She and I got along fine because I pretended she didn't exist. I never made eye contact or tried to touch her.  She sniffed me several times, even choosing to sit near me once, but basically she wanted to lay near her owners and watch me from across the room.  I told the owners that muzzles can be like on/off switches for dogs such that dogs learn what they can and cannot do while wearing them.  Thus it falls on the humans to make sure that they don't put their muzzled dogs into situations where they feel triggered, over-stimulated, and anxious.  Yes, they can't bite someone with a muzzle on, but they are still anxious.  Your job as the handler of an aggressive dog wearing a muzzle is to NOT put them in situations where they feel triggered.  Luckily, most strangers won't try to approach or pet a dog wearing a muzzle, but the same goes for visitors and guests as well.  Muzzle the dog when people come over and tell people to just ignore the dog.  Most territorial and protective dogs aren't "gunning for people to bite, " rather they are responding to people invading their space, touching their people, or trying to touch them.  Leave them alone and they leave you alone. 

One last case, and this one breaks my heart.  My clients have had their dog for over five years.  They just had a baby and their dog is very anxious about this new, little human in the house.  The dog has barked at, lunged at, and actually nipped at the baby's dangling foot while the mother was nursing the baby.  They've tried giving the dog treats when the baby is around, letting the dog be in the same room in his crate or x-pen, etc.  The grandparents are furious that this dog is even still alive, let alone in the same house with their grandchild.  This is creating a huge amount of friction for everyone in this family.  Now the baby has colic and is very agitated almost all of the time.  The screaming/crying baby has caused this dog to actually bite dad when he stepped in to block the dog from getting near the baby's crib.  While I can understand this dog's anxiety (he's never been around children and is a rather anxious dog to begin with, particularly with noises), this situation is untenable long term.  This dog isn't safe in this home and neither are the humans.  This dog will bite again.  He needs to live in a quiet, child-free home.  The problem is that placing a dog that bites isn't easy and these owners don't have time to spend trying to find a home for their anxious, biting dog.  In the short term, the dog is living with a friend who has no kids and works from home, but they aren't interested in keeping the dog long term as the dog does chase cats and she has three cats in her home.  These owners need to decide whether to surrender this dog to the shelter, knowing that he may be euthanized there because he's a dog with a bite history and some existing issues in anxiety otherwise as well, or make that heart-breaking decision to have him euthanized by their own veterinarian.  They've spoken to their vet (as have I) and their vet is an understanding and compassionate soul who doesn't want to think about a dog in a home with a baby and his risk for another bite. 

These are just a few examples, but they do illustrate the wide range of ways that aggression can manifest in dogs and varying ways that dog owners can manage the behaviors they are seeing.  Management is never easy, but in some cases it is possible.  But not always.  Dogs who bite will bite again if we don't keep them from doing so, either by restricting their access to triggers, wearing a muzzle, or re-homing them into a situation where their triggers don't exist.  Each of these dog owners brushed off the first (or the first handful) of aggressive behaviors their dogs exhibited.  I know it's hard to acknowledge that your dog is aggressive as many feel like it's their fault their dogs behave this way, but ignoring or explaining away the behavior won't make it go away.  Neither will putting an electronic collar on the dog and shocking him when he behaves aggressively.  If anything, that strategy is likely to backfire, making the behavior worse as the dog gets frustrated and redirects their aggression on you.  Shocking a fearful/anxious/aggressive dog just reinforces that whatever triggered their aggression in the first place is bad and they were right to feel anxious and react.

If you are dealing with issues in aggression, please let me help you.  I just want to see that your dog, and your family, are safe, whether that's safe from a bite, or safe from liability. Whether you keep your aggressive dog, or not, is not for me to decide.  Only you know whether that is something you can do and I won't be judging you either way. 

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Would you want to reach down and take this dog's bone away?

Moving With Your Pets

Last week, we talked about summer vacations and preparing your pets for that inevitable separation from you and their normal routine.  Another very common summer stressor for pets (and for their humans!) is moving, whether that means a move to a new home across town, or a big relocation out of state or out of the country.  A recent study found that people rank moving as even more stressful than getting a divorce! If we humans find moving stressful, we can only imagine how our pets must feel. Dogs and cats are naturally territorial animals, so moving necessarily redefines their home turf.  Plus, the anxiety and tension we humans experience as part of the moving process is something our pets most definitely pick up on, leading them to behave anxiously too.  So, what can you do to make the process easier for your pets, and therefore easier on yourself as well? 

First things first.  Bring in those moving boxes and rolls of packing tape early on.  You want your pets to get used to having boxes around on a daily basis.  I know some cat owners are going to find their cats inside of those packing boxes, but that's great; just don't start loading household items in there with them!  While you are packing up your home, getting rid of items you no longer need, etc. try to keep to your usual routine as much as possible.  Our pets thrive on routines and schedules, so you want to do all that you can to keep disruptions to their daily routine at a minimum. Don't move their beds, toys, or favorite hiding places until the last possible moment.  If you have a dog and are moving someplace where you can visit in advance of your move, be sure and do that.  Walk them around your new home environment inside and outside on leash several times before you make that final move.  That way, the new environment won't be a complete surprise to them.  This is particularly important if you are moving to a home with stairs, an elevator, elevated balconies, or any other features unfamiliar or new to them. You want your dog to know how to use those stairs, or enjoy that second floor balcony, before you move in.  Take treats with you and spend some time together getting to know and explore your new home.  Obviously, this isn't possible to do with every move, so just do your best!  These walk-throughs that you do with your pet will also allow you to figure out any changes or alterations that will need to be made to make your new home safe for them.  Do you need to extend a fence?  Fill up a hole in the yard or remove toxic plants?  Put up netting or wire on a balcony or treads on the stairs?  The time to find out those things is before your pet is permanently in their new space.

Whether you are using a moving company, or moving all your stuff yourself, you will want to have your pets out of the house on moving day.  Doors and gates are going to be open and you don't want anyone running off.  Plus, the stress of watching strangers invade their home turf AND remove their things can result in some pets displaying aggressive behavior. Leave your pets with a friend, at daycare, or board them on moving day. Your goal is to bring them into their new home environment with most of the furniture in place, particularly the objects belonging to your pets (e.g. beds, dishes, cat trees, toys).  For some pets, the safest way to move their stuff is for you to move it in your vehicle so that strangers' hands don't touch their stuff.  While you could certainly wash a pet bed when you get to your new home, your pet will actually find comfort in those familiar smells from the old place. 

If you are moving across country, you can certainly drive with your pets or fly them cargo, but another option is to use a transport service.  These transport services can be lifesavers for people moving cross country who don't want to drive with their pets and/or who need to fly and don't want to ship their pets in a plane's cargo hold. Using a transport service allows you to schedule when you want your pets to arrive at your new home as well, thus allowing you to get that space set up in advance of them coming home. If you are moving out of the country, be sure to check what sorts of vaccines, examinations, etc. are required for them to go with you.  Is there a quarantine period where you are moving? Will you be able to visit with your pet in quarantine?  These are all questions you want to have answered well before moving day. And if you are driving with your pets, be sure to secure your hotel accommodations well in advance as while most will allow pets, some of them will have additional requirements or fees for pet owners, and may only allow a certain number of pets in their rooms/units. Whether you are driving or flying to your new home, it's a good idea to pack a pet emergency bag or box that has all the items they will need for several days, including backup leashes and collars just in case the ones you are using currently break, get lost, or your pet anxiously chews through them!

I want to talk about our feline friends specifically for a moment.  Cats should be kept strictly indoors (if they aren't indoor cats already) following a move.  In order to make sure that your cats don't escape, keep them confined to one room initially, filled with their favorite climbing structures, perches, water fountains, food puzzles, dishes, litterboxes, and hiding places. You can use plug in pheromone adapters (Feliway) in that room to enhance their sense of calm with the new space.  Give your cats at least a couple of weeks, for some even a month or more, to get their bearings before you begin having them out in other parts of your new home, supervised at first, to make sure that they aren't overwhelmed. If you share your home with guinea pigs or rabbits, be extra careful when moving them.  Keep them in a small, warm crate or container with familiar bedding while transporting them. Keep them isolated in one room as outlined for cats above.  And it goes without saying that your feathered friends must be moved while caged as even the most docile, well-trained bird, can fly off if anxious during the moving process. I know this may sound a bit heartless, but unless you are doing a short, local move, it's probably better to re-home your fish than to try to take them with you.  Fish often fatally respond to moving stress, so limiting how much movement they experience is a key factor in their survival. For short distances, move your fish in bags filled with their old tank water.

If you are moving to a new area, you will not only want to find a new veterinarian for your pets, but also locate the nearest 24 hour emergency vet service.  Once you have identified the new vet who will be caring for your pets, you can have your pets' records electronically transferred over to ensure consistency of care, particularly with regard to prescriptions than may need to be refilled soon.  Find out if your pets need to be licensed where you are moving and get that done in advance.  I hate to even mention it, but some places have breed bans in place, so the time to find out that your new city, new neighborhood, or new building doesn't allow Cattledogs, Rottweilers, or Pit Bulls is BEFORE you choose to make the move happen. 

It goes without saying that you will want to be extra kind to yourselves and your pets during a move.  Take that extra walk.  Go for a hike and explore together.  Break out the yummy treats. Spend more time playing together, or just relaxing in your new home.  Those boxes will all get unpacked eventually, and taking a break to settle in with your furred and feathered friends is well worth it.  Your anxiety will be curbed a bit, as will theirs.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Moving day for my daughter almost two years ago.  You'll notice something important missing here, though the use of the Chewy boxes should give you a hint.  Her smooth collie, of course! Westley stayed with friends while we moved her into her new house.  He visited the new house several times before the move, and was happy to see that "his" couches were there by the time that he arrived after moving day was all said and done.

On the Road Again!

Did you find yourself singing along with the title of this blog?  I did as soon as I typed the words...lol.  But in all seriousness:  Are you going on vacation this summer? Are you planning to leave your pet at home while you are away? If you are, this is going to take some pre-planning on your part and the sooner you start, the better the situation will be for your pet and the less you will have to worry about as your vacation draws near.

First off, you know your pets better than anyone. If you have multiple pets, dogs and cats for example, it is likely better to keep everyone home and have a qualified and trusted pet sitter stay in your home while you are gone.  You can leave a detailed plan of how you want them cared for, what you do with your pets throughout the day, their exercise requirements, feeding plan, etc. While your pets might prefer to have someone they know like a family member or close friend be the one to stay with them when you are gone, that isn't always feasible. If that's the case, you will want to start interviewing pet sitters who are licensed, bonded, and insured.  I have several clients who have found not just dog walkers through Rover.com, but wonderful house sitters as well.  If you are looking for a place to start, I think Rover.com is as good a spot as any to begin your search.  If one or more of your pets has medical needs (e.g. fluid therapy, daily medications, or injections), you may want to even check with your veterinarian's office to see if they have any veterinary technicians on staff who also do house sitting.  

If you aren't comfortable having someone stay in your home, then it's time to take a look at the different pet boarding options available in your area.  You will find everything from traditional boarding kennels to places that do "boarding unleashed," with dogs rooming together in large rooms with dog beds and sofas and staff that stays on site 24/7, and everything in between.  A lot of the doggie daycares also offer boarding and that may work well if you have a dog who already enjoys going to daycare; spending several nights at a daycare your dog is already used to is key.  If your dog doesn't normally do daycare, isn't fond of other dogs, or is older and would be anxious being off leash with other dogs all day long, a more traditional boarding situation in a kennel environment may work better.  Some of these kennels will even offer upgrades which can include boarding your dogs together if you have more than one dog; daily walks or time in a play yard alone with a staff member; grooming; and even cuddle time.  Kennels also have staff that can administer medications to your pet for an additional fee, if needed. 

If you want a more personal touch for your pet, but don't want someone staying in your home, you can also explore in-home boarding options with people who offer the service in their homes, rather than yours.  These dog-loving folks will want to host your dog(s) in advance to make sure they are a good fit for their home as they usually have one or more of their own resident dogs as well.  

No matter what option you choose, you will want to have your pet care arrangements made at least 2 months in advance, often even further out for peak holidays.  Now is the time to make those pet care arrangements if you plan to be gone over the summer holidays, for example.  And it's never too soon to make plans for the winter holidays if you know when you'll need help caring for your pets while you are away. 

If you intend to use a kennel or daycare, whether in home daycare/boarding, or one of the larger places, go ahead and set your pet up for an overnight stay BEFORE you actually have to leave them for multiple days on your planned vacation.  That way, you will know if that boarding/care option works well for them, or if you will need to pursue alternate arrangements.  The time to find out that your dog doesn't like being kenneled, or hates hanging out all day with other dogs, is well before you actually go on vacation!

Remember, too, that boarding means making sure your pet is in good health and up to date on all of the vaccines required to safely board.  Some even require a visit to the veterinarian prior to a stay, so finding that out in advance is key to making those appointments and getting all the necessary paperwork ready to go. Don't forget to ask ahead of time if you want to bring your pet's bed, favorite toy, etc. with them when they board.  Some facilities don't allow any personal belongings while others welcome it! If your pet is on a special diet, be sure they know that as well as you will want to make sure any treats or shared snacks are safe for your pet while you are away.

We all worry when we are away from home and have left our pets behind.  Check to see if you can get daily reports emailed to you on how they are doing while you are gone (if you like), or if they have cameras set up so you can check in whenever you want.  Leaving your beloved furred family members in someone else's care is a leap of faith, and those whose job involves caring for those pets while their owners are away, take their jobs very seriously.  They want everyone to be safe and as happy as possible. 

Finally, try not to take it too personally if your pets snub you a bit when you return home.  This is perfectly normal as they acclimate to having you back home and getting back into their routine with you at the helm.  While they missed you as much as you missed them, it takes a little time to get back into the swing of things.  And if, conversely, your pet seems a bit clingier than usual, that's okay too and it most certainly is NOT a sign that they weren't well cared for in your absence. It just means they noticed you were gone and are happy to have you back. 

If you live in the San Francisco Bay Area and need boarding suggestions, don't hesitate to send me a message and I'll try to send some good options your way.  And as always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me. 

When Ozzie was a puppy, I left him in the care of a dear friend while we were on vacation. He was only 6 months old, and I hated to leave him, but I knew he was in good hands. He and Desi stayed at her house where they played with her dogs and she tried her best to keep them out of mischief.  This meant Ozzie spent a significant amount of time in an x-pen on time out as he was a holy terror as a puppy! I'm lucky she is still friends with me!

Sibling Rivalry

A long time client called for my advice.  She lost her beloved senior Labrador during the pandemic lockdown and was now ready for a new puppy!  Turns out, two breeders have contacted her with puppies available and both have said that she can have a puppy.  One breeder even told her that the pups could keep each other company when she's at work!  She was calling me because she'd heard me say, more than once, that you should never adopt sibling dogs, but she wanted to know if the same thing applied to same-aged puppies from different litters.

While it's not a formally used term, many of us like to refer to the issues dog owners face when they have sibling puppies OR puppies of the same age from different litters, as "littermate syndrome."  I know that some folks say that potential problems only happen when the puppies are related, that simply isn't true; complications can arise even if the puppies are unrelated. While most of the breeders I know personally like to advise their potential puppy families to wait 6 months to a year before bringing home a second puppy, there are some breeders who still believe it's just as easy to raise two puppies as one.

For most dog breeds, puppies are ready to head out to their new homes and bond with their new families between 8 and 11 weeks of age.  Puppies who stay together longer than that run the risk of bonding more with each other than with people, even if the breeder or breeder family is interacting with those puppies regularly; basically, the puppies spend more time together than they do apart.  So, if you get two puppies, even from different litters, they are naturally going to bond with each other more than they will with you unless you make some pretty substantial changes to the way you raise those puppies.  While it might seem easy to just let them use the same crate, play pen, eat together, nap together, etc., letting them do all of those things *might* make it easier for you, but it isn't going to make things easy for the puppies.

If you have two similarly aged puppies, they need to sleep in different crates.  The crates can be in the same room, but they should be visually separated from one another.  Every day, you need to walk, train, handle, and play with each puppy separately.  While they can eat at the same time, they should not share a bowl and should be separated so that neither needs the presence of the other to eat. Puppies need four two-hour naps everyday, so you will likely want to stagger those naps so the puppies are sleeping apart and you have time to train, handle, and walk one puppy while the other naps.  If you do this right, it should take up most of your day...LOL! But if you want your puppies to bond to you and look to you for attention, approval, and guidance, then this is how to do it successfully.  

Are you sensing that doing this will give you less time with each individual puppy?  Then you are correct.  Splitting your time between two puppies means that neither really gets your undivided attention.  And you're going to need to schedule two puppy classes too as those puppies need to go to separate classes so they can interact with other puppies and people, learn to work under distractions, and further bond with you.  While your puppies may very well be playing at home with each other just fine, many sibling puppies (and here I am using the term "sibling" to refer to puppies raised together, related or not) display fear and some even aggression when exposed to other, unfamiliar puppies. Puppies do a significant amount of learning watching each other, the adult dogs and cats in their house, etc.  Those two puppies you are raising together are, by design, going to have more house training issues as they are learning good AND bad habits from each other. Finally, those puppies raised together and not separated enough regularly will have a difficult time doing anything apart.  Routine veterinary visits, trips to the groomer, even a solitary walk can become problematic as the puppies show obvious and pronounced distress when they are separated.  

When I went over all of this with my client, she was thoroughly relieved to have asked as she was pretty sure she didn't have the time or patience for two puppies, but now she was CERTAIN she didn't have time for them!  Two puppies is definitely more than twice the work as anyone with human twins can tell you.  And in case you are wondering when I think it's a good time to get a second puppy, I like to wait until the first puppy is no longer a puppy, but still young enough to enjoy the antics a new puppy brings to the mix.  So for me, a second puppy can be brought home after the first puppy's first birthday, and ideally before that first pup turns 3 years of age.  It doesn't mean you can't add a puppy when your first dog is 4 years of age or older, it just means that the age difference between them will be significant enough that they may not enjoy each other as much as they would have had they been just a bit closer in age.  While it's true that the addition of a puppy can rejuvenate an older dog, it's also a lot of work for the older dog to keep up with said puppy, much more so than it would have been when he was young and spry.  And finally, the big picture:  The only reason to EVER consider getting a second (or third, or fourth dog) is because YOU the human want another dog.  Never get a dog as company for your existing dog.  Who's to say that your resident dog will think that puppy or dog you've chosen is good company? Many dogs like other dogs in small doses, but really don't want to live with them (and compete with them) day in and day out.  Multi-dog households are for the people, not for the dogs.

I'm looking forward to meeting the puppy my client chooses this time around.  Her previous dog was so delightful and I enjoyed watching him blossom as a pet therapy dog as well. While this puppy has big shoes to fill, I know my client will have the time and resources she needs to get him or her off to a terrific start.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

They are all ridiculously cute, but choosing just one is in your best interest if you want to avoid littermate syndrome!

Am I Too Old For This Dog?

That was the question posed to me by a client I saw a few weeks ago.  Her kids told her she was too old to get a puppy (she got the pup anyway!), and then they told her she was certainly too old for an adolescent dog when she began having a few issues with him, and that's when she started to doubt herself and called me. My client is 72 years young and told me she'd love it if I shared her story as she knows she's not alone.  Several of her senior friends told her their kids had said similar things to them, with some caving in and not getting a dog at all, while others opted for cats instead.  I'm grateful that she called me for help and for allowing me to share her story here.

My client has had dogs her whole life.  She and her husband always had Shepherds when their kids were growing up, but when they rescued a Golden Retriever about 15 years ago, that became their new favorite breed.  My client lost that Golden right after her husband passed away.  She said that while she knew they were keeping each other company in Heaven, she was lonely here with her kids living out of the area.  She decided she wanted another Golden Retriever, this time opting to go through a breeder rather than rescue as she wanted a "mellow puppy" that would fit her lifestyle. The breeder picked an adorable, rolly-polly male puppy for my client; he was laid back, loved to cuddle, and had already been crated trained and was doing well with house training. My client picked him up in January and things had been going really well until last week.  Her puppy is now 6.5 months old and has seemingly entered adolescence; he chases the neighbor's cat, pulls on leash, started chewing on her dining room chairs, and barks when people walk past their condo.  She hadn't felt overwhelmed up until this point, but now felt like she was in over her head.

First of all, I was a bit perturbed that her kids would tell her that she was too old for another dog.  What does that even mean?  My client is an active, vibrant, funny and fun-loving senior who lives on her own in a condominium in a big senior development. She is certainly not a novice dog owner and she's had puppies before.  Second, the breeder she worked with felt as I do that placing a puppy in a home is about finding the right home.  The breeder felt this puppy was a perfect match for my client as his easy-going temperament made him a better fit for her quiet lifestyle than if he had been placed in a busy home with kids, for example, where he might have been overwhelmed. So, while her kids were telling her "I told you so" when he began to behave as most adolescent dogs do, she called her veterinarian for help and that's when I entered the picture.

The issues my client is having are common and easily addressed.  By adding in an experienced dog walker, we've been able to increase the dog's physical exercise. We added in a flirt pole at home for exercise in my client's little backyard, and we picked several interactive toys to use for feeding him meals and keeping his brain stimulated.  We switched out his plethora of soft toys for a handful of stuffed sterile bones, bullysticks, and Nylabones to redirect him from chewing on the furniture when he's bored.  All the toys are picked up now and in a cupboard and my client is switching them out several times during the day to hold her dog's interest.  We've instituted time outs for not listening to the quiet command and put up motion-activated sprinklers in her yard to keep the neighbor's cat out of her garden and thus keep her dog from chasing the cat too! This client loves to learn, so we decided she'd enroll her dog in an upcoming Rally class for fun.  I've started her training for the class already, using soccer cones at home and printed directions for different stations.  Her dog is loving all the new challenges and my client is feeling accomplished and like she took an active part in changing her dog's behavior before it felt like it was too late.

I did a follow up phone call with my client yesterday to see how they were doing.  She sounded so upbeat and positive (not tearful as she was the first time we'd talked!) and she said she'd sent her kids video of herself and the dog doing Rally in her backyard!  She was proud that her dog was getting all sorts of positive comments from her neighbors and friends and she was relieved that her kids weren't pushing her to give the dog up.  I'm really proud of her and all that she's accomplished.  For me, she is an ideal dog owner, one with the experience to know when she should ask for help.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

If you're happy and you know it, smile big for the camera!