Listen to Me!

It's a common complaint, "my dog won't listen to me when we are out in public!" Seems that many dogs get out of the house and their training goes out the window, so to speak.  There's even a funny video prompt making the rounds on social media where it states "show me your dog doesn't listen without telling me your dog doesn't listen."  There are a million videos of dogs completely ignoring their owners out on walks!  While the videos are entertaining, this is a real problem and one that shouldn't be ignored.  Dogs who don't listen out in public aren't just embarrassing; they could put themselves and their owners at risk.

Whenever someone tells me that their dog doesn't listen out in public, my first question to ask is how well they listen at home; do they come when they are called 100% of the time? 80%? 50%?  Do they sit, lay down, leave it, and stay both with AND without food, or are they bribing their dogs to comply and the absence of food means the dogs ignores them?  You've heard me say it many times before: we all like to get paid, but an intermittent reinforcement schedule means that your dog is willing and eager to do what you'd like them to do because they know you will be rewarding them at some point in time. For many dog owners, the truth of the matter is this: yes, their dogs are better at listening when they are inside the house and there aren't any distractions, but the bottom line is that even there (and in their backyard), the dog is easily distracted and less than likely to comply with the requested behavior. Taking this one step further; why are some dogs more likely to do what they are asked than others?  Does breed or age make a difference?

Yes, breed *can* make a difference.  For example, a Beagle is a scent hound, so if they are out and about and catch an amazing scent, they may pay less attention to you in that moment, but that doesn't mean that Beagles cannot be good listeners.  And we all know that puppies, in general, are eager to please, while adolescent dogs often thumb their noses at training exercises, particularly if they feel that the exercises are boring, repetitive, or unnecessary.  So, this brings us to our first important point: know your dog.  What were they bred for?  Were they bred to herd sheep with a shepherd, or were they bred to keep the laps of monks warm in cold weather?  And while you most certainly want to work with your puppy every day on their basic obedience commands, you won't want to just keep up that same routine with your adolescent dog.  You will want to move on to tricks and other activities that utilize those important, basic skills they have, but in novel ways that hold their attention and challenge their brains.  

The next key point: context proofing.  It isn't good enough that your dog sits for you at home when you feed him dinner.  He must sit in other contexts as well, and include contexts where an immediate food reward isn't forthcoming.  So, sit at the front door when it's opening; sit in the car and wait to get out; sit while you use the ATM machine; and sit patiently while you drink coffee in an outdoor restaurant or stop on the street to talk to a neighbor. Initially, you SHOULD use treats to reinforce all of those sits in different contexts, but once your dog can do it reliably, move on to an intermittent reinforcement schedule and use praise and physical affection to reinforce in between. 

Here's a big one: ramp it up.  Work with your dog around a lot of distractions.  Before you practice coming when called off leash inside the dog park, practice coming when called OUTSIDE OF THE DOG PARK.  I mean this quite literally, outside of the dog park.  Put your dog onto a 15-30 foot long leash and let them run off and sniff the area outside the dog park.  Call them back to you (definitely have yummy snacks ready!) and if they don't come right away, give that long line a tug and try to get their attention focused on you again.  Your rule of thumb should be "I will not let my dog off leash anywhere until I am certain that she will come back to me, even with distractions."  If your goal is to hike off leash with your dog, then you must practice good hiking behavior ON leash first.  There will be birds and rabbits and squirrels (and other off leash dogs!) on those hiking trails too.  You need to be certain your dog will leave those things alone if you tell them to leave it and call them your way. Practice does make perfect on this.

Do keep your sessions short and positive.  While training classes are often an hour in length, frequent short session (less than 10 minutes, and 3-5 minutes is ideal) will help your dog to understand what you want, learn to do it across situations, while not getting bored or overwhelmed. Build sniffing and exploring into the breaks between your training sessions.  Sniffing and exploring is rewarding in and of itself, no food rewards required! If you find yourself getting frustrated, your dog will know this.  Give yourself a time out if you find yourself yelling at your dog, yanking them by their collar or leash, or lashing out.  You are a team and there's no place for any of that on a good, reliable team.

One last thing:  If you have an anxious dog (she's reactive to other dogs, she's afraid of noises, scared of new people, etc.), then context proofing will take longer and you may never get to the point where being off leash is safe.  Set realistic goals for your anxious dog; you can definitely work with her to the point that they two of you can have nice, loose leash walks together where she listens for your cues as to how to behave. 

And it goes without saying: while someone with a small, distracted, disobedient dog can simply laugh and pick their dog up when he won't sit at the curb, that isn't an option for those of us with medium and large dogs.  We all need to work with our dogs (and with each other) to get to the point where they are safe in public spaces. 

As always, if you have questions about your dog's behavior, you know where to find me.

I feel like it should go without saying, but I'll say it anyway. Never walk multiple dogs together unless you are sure you have control over each dog as an individual.  Having multiple dogs drag you around not listening is even more of a hazard!  Desi and Ozzie walk nicely alone and do well walking together too.  Of course, they've had years of practice!

Leaving His Mark

I met with a client last weekend who has an adolescent male dog. He is a large breed dog with growth plate issues, so she's trying to hold off neutering him until he's between 2 and 3 years old.  While she was worried that she might have issues with him getting along with other male dogs, that's not a problem at all. He plays well with other male dogs just fine.  She was then concerned that he might try to mount all the female dogs at daycare.  Well, the daycare accommodated him and now the only females in his play group are spayed and they correct him appropriately if he tries to mount them. So what's giving her the biggest headache at the moment? Marking!  This guy marks the stairwell in her house, the patio furniture, and the tires on her car! There aren't any other animals in her house, so she's at her wit's end trying to figure out why he is now marking so frequently.  This is actually a fairly common problem, so let's take a good look at marking behavior.

All dogs, both male and female, spayed/neutered or intact, may engage in marking behavior.  Most people tend to think of marking as a strictly male behavior (a dog lifting it's leg), but that isn't the case.  Any dog may mark; urinating to leave a scent mark is part of normal dog communication. The triggers for marking are most often new or novel smells, another dog's urine, etc.  Often upright objects like posts, poles, trees, etc. are favorite places to mark.  Some dogs are triggered to mark by being in a new place; I've had several clients report their dogs marking in the new homes they've moved into.  Others are triggered by the presence of new objects. For example, years ago I had a client who was so excited to get all new living room furniture only to discover her male dog was marking the new stuff!  She was so surprised (and dismayed!) by this as he'd never marked her old furniture.  I've been in homes where the dogs mark stereo speakers, pole lamps, and coat racks! Usually, if you move to a new place or add new furniture to your home, you can simply supervise your dog's access to these areas until they get comfortable with them and no longer feel the need to mark.  You can do this by spending time with your dog in each new space (or near the new objects), feeding them there, etc.  When you can't watch them, return them to a space they won't mark such as their crate, pen, or confined to your kitchen.  As your dog's comfort level increases, you can expand where they can go when unsupervised, but never leave them alone in an area where they've previously marked until you are certain they are past the behavior.  I say this because many dogs mark because they are anxious.  They are experiencing stress and are responding to the influx in hormones by marking, thus creating spaces they can comfortably claim as their own. So, while a normal intact male dog might be triggered to mark by the presence of an intact female dog on his home turf (a common problem in dog breeders' homes), anxious male dogs may be triggered to mark by other external factors.

Dog owners are frequently told to "just neuter your dog and the problem will be solved," but that's often not the case.  While neutering reduces marking in approximately 80% of male dogs, it only eliminates the problem in about 40% of the cases. As mentioned previously, marking occurs in neutered dogs too, as well as female dogs. Again, marking isn't just about hormonal arousal, it's also about anxiety.

Let's get back to my client's dog.  This young dog is living in a very busy household.  I believe he is experiencing some anxiety, which truly isn't uncommon in adolescent dogs.  He gets plenty of exercise and has a lot of social opportunities.  While my client hasn't added anything new to her home in terms of furniture or upright items, she does live in a huge home.  While her dog is house-trained in the conventional sense (he knows to go outdoors to eliminate), he isn't trustworthy to have free-rein of the whole house unsupervised.  I've asked her to go back to restricting him to the downstairs area of her home where the family spends most of their time and where he has never marked.  Outdoors, he should be supervised as well so that he can be redirected away from marking the patio furniture or her car tires. She lives near an open space, so it's quite likely that free-roaming animals like skunks, opossums, deer, foxes, squirrels, etc. are moving through the yard and he is marking in response to that.  Nonetheless, if she doesn't want to supervise his outside time, she will have to learn to accept him marking outdoor objects.  If she continues scrubbing them with soap and water, he will just feel compelled to go back and freshen his marks if he smells other animals in the area again. It's fine for her to interrupt the behavior if she sees him sniffing around the furniture or her car; she can call him away or redirect him to another activity (e.g. go get your ball!). 

For some dogs, using an odor neutralizer in the marked area will be enough to deter them from returning, but that's not the case for my client's dog.  She tried booby-trapping the stairwell where he was marking, but he just waited until the booby traps were removed and then went back and marked! Now we just don't let him anywhere near the stairwell at all. As a stop-gap measure, she can put a belly band on the dog to prevent marking; belly bands are a fabric device that goes around the dog's abdomen, covering the penis, and thus ensuring that any urine excreted by the dog is absorbed by the fabric band and their belly fur, and not by the object they were trying to mark.  A belly band is fine to use when you can't supervise your dog, but leaving one on your dog all the time isn't a good solution. Better to confine them when you can't watch them, make sure they are getting enough mental and physical exercise, and address any issues in anxiety that are contributing to the marking.

If you are faced with a similar issue, here is your action plan:

1.  Clean the marked area well with a product designed to actually eliminate urine odor and damage.

2.  Block access to the areas your dog was marking when you can't supervise them there.  When you are there with them in those areas, use those opportunities to work on behaviors that run counter to marking such as grooming, feeding, training, or playing.

3.  Whenever possible, keep the objects your dog most desires for marking out of their "safe spaces." So, for example, if your dog likes to mark unfamiliar shoes in your entryway or your guests' suitcases, keep those visitors' shoes out of reach and put suitcases in closed closets so your dog won't be tempted to mark them.

4.  Address and resolve any conflict that could be contributing to your dog's anxiety and leading to marking.  For example, if you've brought in a new pet, brought home a new baby, or your elderly aunt just moved in with you, all of these situations could cause conflict and stress for a dog who then responds by marking. Break out the high value treats and reward your dog for getting along with the new family member.  For best results, pair all good things with the presence of the new person or pet. DAP plug ins and Adaptil collars may help, and even CBD formulated for dogs may curb the transitional anxiety associated with the upheaval in your home. 

5.  Tether your dog to you if you can't crate or confine them.  Teach them to lay on a mat or rug near you calmly rather than allowing them to explore unsupervised.  Give your dog frequent opportunities to get outdoors and appropriately mark to their heart's content. 

6.  If marking persists despite your best efforts, talk to your veterinarian about anti-anxiety medication.

The one thing you don't want to do is punish your dog for marking.  This will only increase the dog's anxiety thus leading to further, often more surreptitious, marking behavior.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Even on a rainy day, and while wearing his trusty raincoat, Desi likes to sniff and mark on his morning walk.  The rain often brings new and interesting smells to the surface and we definitely notice him stopping, sniffing, and marking even more than usual!

Who Let the Dogs Out: When Dogs Congregate!

One of my clients is super-frustrated with her adolescent, intact male dog.  He is great on his daily excursions with the dog walker who takes him off leash with a gaggle of other dogs, where he can run around, play in water, etc. When he is on leash, however, he is a "fur missile," launching at other dogs and dragging his owner down the street.  On playdates in the neighborhood? Again, he's great!  On a walk in the neighborhood?  Not so much.  So why is it that he's fine with dogs off leash but not on leash?  Why can't he be equally social in both situations? Will neutering change any of this behavior?

I've had many clients notice the behavioral differences exhibited by their dogs when on leash versus off leash; even dogs who are not reacting to other dogs when on leash do seem to be more "hyper aware" when they are on leash versus off. This is actually very normal and easy to explain. Let's look at this from the dog's perspective.

When a dog is on leash, they are by definition tethered to you. This means that they can't get away if a situation goes badly.  It also means that they have to protect themselves and you while hindered by that tether. This situation makes many dogs "hyper aware" when on leash walks with their owners when other dogs are out as well. A lot of dogs pull on leash to get to each other as fast as possible to get those sniffy introductions out of the way and determine if all is well.  When dogs pull toward one another on leash, however, their bodies aren't in the normal shapes and postures conducive to a successful greeting.  When dogs pull they are gasping for air, straining on the leash, with ears often back, lips retracted, and a direct stare in the direction they want to go  A lot of dogs will scrabble around with their feet as well, appearing completely out of control.  Add in some barking, whining, or yipping, and you have a recipe for disaster when those two leashed dogs explode into each other's space. And, yes, dragging their equally stressed out and anxious owners behind them. This is just one of the many reasons why I don't let my dogs greet other dogs while on leash; off leash playdates in a yard, under my control, are the way my dogs engage other dogs. 

I love that many of you are using daycares and dog walkers for your dogs now that you've headed back to work.  This is a wonderful solution to the age old question of "what is my dog going to do all day while I'm at work?" A well-staffed, well-trained daycare provider can ensure that your social dog has an outlet for their enthusiasm and a place to get their exercise while hanging out with other, like-minded dogs. Daycare experiences can mean everything from a traditional daycare that is run like a staffed, off leash dog park, to an in-home daycare provider who keeps just a few dogs at a time daily for exercise and socialization in their own home and yard. For older dogs or dogs who aren't particularly social, daycare can be stressful and overwhelming.  These dogs will likely do better with an experienced dog walker for one-on-one excursions and fun outings. Remember that dog sociability is on a spectrum, and not all dogs are extroverts, desiring that constant contact with other dogs.  And it is also true that dogs' social needs change as they get older.  Your dog may have loved to play at daycare when they were a puppy and adolescent, but as a senior dog, they may find the whole experience very stressful.  Daycare providers want your dogs to succeed and be happy; if a staff member tells you that your dog isn't enjoying himself, don't be upset by this.  Daycare isn't for every dog and daycare providers need to make sure their areas are safe for all the dogs in their care.  And while I'm happy to evaluate your pet and discuss all of this with you, you need to keep in mind that I can't *make* your dog want to go to daycare or enjoy going there if she doesn't.  Rather, I will be pointing you toward other solutions as to what they should be doing while you are at work all day.

So, let's circle back around to my client with the intact male dog I was telling you about. He is clearly still enjoying his dog excursions and off leash socializing.  Even though he's intact, he is not mounting the other dogs as we've successfully taught him that that behavior earns him a time out away from socializing.  Neutering him will definitely help with the marking he does, on occasion, in their house, but it isn't going to make him any less "nutty" on leash when he sees other dogs.  That's where the work needs to be done!  He thinks that when he sees other dogs, it's play time!  We need to teach him that when he's on leash, this is work time.  His owners need to stop trying to figure out how to let him safely greet other dogs when on leash, and focus on how to make him a good walking companion.  We went for a walk together and I put two leashes on the dog, one attached to a martingale collar and the other attached to a Gentle Leader Head Halter. I had a bag full of very high value treats in my pocket and I'd already let him know that he could have them IF he walked nicely on leash as we started our walk in their yard before heading out into the neighborhood.  I was in charge of the leashes as his owner admitted that she was sure she was cuing him to dogs and thus part of the problem.  I understood this; she'd been pulled over more than once as her dog tried to yank her toward another leashed dog.  We walked for just 10 minutes; this was a training walk, not an exercise walk.  I let him sniff and explore with his leashes loose so he felt relaxed.  What I did NOT do is tell him when I saw other dogs, gasp when I saw other dogs, tighten up on his leash, ball his leash up in my hand, or step to the side to let other dogs go by.  I also didn't hide behind any hedges or cars!  We walked.  If he started to focus on another dog I'd say his name using an upbeat tone and guide him my way with the two leashes (think about how you might use the reins on a horse!).  When he broke his laser focus on that other dog, he received an enthusiastic "Yes!" from me and one of those high value treats.  He continued to get high value treats for following along with me and ignoring the other dog.  When the other dog was out of sight, no more treats and back to encouraging him to sniff and pee. We passed homes with off leash dogs behind wire fencing who barked and chased us along the fence line and he did great!  A few whines and a bit of pulling, but following along with me was much more rewarding.  His owner noted that his walks are never this pleasant for them, and that he normally pulls even when there aren't other dogs right there.  This is where the two leash system can be really helpful, particularly for big dogs.  You feel safer and like you have more control, and thus you are less likely to shorten up on your leash thus cuing your dog to pull in response.  Keeping the walk short and adding in those treats really will help.  Even a neighbor reinforced this point for my client when he came out on his driveway and said," Wow!  He looks so much more relaxed!  He's enjoying that walk this morning!"  My client thanked him and then sheepishly told me he was the neighbor who came to her rescue with wet wipes and bandages on one of the walks where her dog had pulled her down!

These improvements are just the start.  We'll need to walk together a few more times to make sure her dog has got the new routine. My client will need to do the walks with me there so she can build back her own confidence.  In the meantime, he will continue to go to daycare to get his exercise and playtime with his dog friends, and even have a few playdates with his dog buddies in their yard.  Her walks with him will initially be at off peak times to work on her leash handling and treat delivery.  All walks will be short.  Over time, we'll build up to walking at peak times when there are lots of dogs out on leash.  For now, we'll keep it simple and rewarding for all parties concerned. 

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

A group of dog friends having fun at Sniff and Saunter Dog Adventures! In-home daycares like this are wonderful for dogs who prefer small groups and where even older dogs can enjoy a bit of socializing without feeling overwhelmed.  

The Truth About Cats & Dogs

While a 2018 survey found that 61% of American households had a dog OR a cat, the researchers also found that 14% of those households had both cats AND dogs, which brings up an important question.  Can dogs and cats truly live together harmoniously in a home?  This seems to be the question on several pet owners'  minds this week, so I think it's time we looked more closely at the topic of living with dogs and cats under the same roof.

I believe the key to successfully living with dogs and cats in the same household is to do sufficient pre-planning to optimize your chances for four-legged harmony. While many pet owners seem to feel that peaceful coexistence is the best that they can hope for, I like to think that if you've done your homework, you may even be able to have dogs and cats who don't just coexist, but get along well together and perhaps even play, groom, etc. 

Here are some pointers to keep in mind:

• The ideal situation involves adding a puppy and a kitten to your home at the same time. While this may seem like a lot of work, raising them together right from the start increases the likelihood that they will learn to get along and appreciate one another. 
• Take a good look at the breed of dog you are choosing.  Some dogs are simply more predatory than others and would thus be more risky around a cat or kitten.  And while many feel that you can't have cats in a house with herding dogs, I have several clients who share their homes with felines and herders and the arrangement is blissful. Keep in mind too that for brachycephalic dogs like Pugs, Frenchies, etc. you must be cautious adding an inexperienced cat to your home as one swat with a claw could cause permanent damage to your dog's protruding eyes.
• If you already have an adult cat and you are looking to add a dog, look for a dog who is calm and maybe a bit submissive.  And they will ultimately do better together if the experiences your cat has had with dogs previously were positive.
• The opposite is true as well. If you already have an adult dog who seems fairly calm and interested in cats in a non-predatory way, then adding a kitten could work as that kitten would be raised with a tolerant, adult dog companion. 
• If you are looking to adopt a cat from a shelter, talk to the staff there.  They can tell you which cats are more bold and inquisitive with the dogs in the shelter and which seem the most frightened and overwhelmed by the canids around them.
• When introducing cats to dogs and vice versa, keep your sessions short and safe.  This means using really yummy treats (canned chicken, canned salmon, etc. for your feline friends and perhaps steak, hamburger, or cheese for your dog buddies) and ensuring that dogs are leashed, crated, or confined behind a gate or in a pen and the cat can escape by climbing up on something out of the way, or simply moving away from the controlled dog if they become overwhelmed. 
• Persevere!  Even if the first meeting doesn't go well (the dog barks and tries to chase the cat and/or the cat hisses and runs away from the dog), you'll definitely want to try again.  Try adding in extra humans for support, even better treats, and making sure you time the introductions for when both the cat and dog are well-rested and calm to begin with.

More food for thought: If you have an established dog home, the safest way to add a cat is by isolating the cat in a separate territory at first so that they can acclimate to the new home environment and know where their safe space is before introducing to the dog.  Make sure your cat's safe space is enriching; it will need places to hide, places to climb, and place to look outside, toys, perches, and scratching options.  You will want to spend significant time bonding with your new cat as well, so make sure your cat's safe space is human comfortable too (this is why making your cat's safe space a bathroom, laundry, room, etc. isn't ideal.  Who wants to spend any extra time in their laundry room?!).  Do the introductions slowly and not in your cat's safe space.  Always return your cat to their safe space following the introductions. Over time, you can increase the frequency and duration of the sessions together.  Hopefully, by the time you are ready to open up your whole house to your new feline friend, they'll be on speaking terms with your dog.  And they will still know how to escape the dog and return to their safe space when they need to.

While dogs and cats don't speak the same language, both are naturally sociable.  Raising dogs and cats together from puppyhood/kittenhood does help them to learn to read each other's body language more successfully.  Nonetheless, adult dogs and adult cats can learn to read each other's body language and respond appropriately.  For example, a cat can learn that blocking a dog, staring at him (or ignoring him), and even slightly raising a paw will be sufficient to get a cat-friendly dog to back off.  And a dog who doesn't want to have his tail pounced on or be groomed by a cat knows that if he barks or moves away to a space the cat can't use, that the cat will leave him alone.  Help your dogs and cats to be good housemates by not allowing either to bully the other one. While it would be ideal for your dogs and cats to be best friends, at the very least they need to be respectful of each other and well-behaved with you in your home.  Products like Feliway plug in diffusers, CBD treats, etc. can be helpful, but they aren't a solution in and of themselves.  Work on those slow introductions with high value treats in the space in your home you intend for your cats and dogs to share. That is where you will help them build a mutually beneficial relationship and one which you will enjoy sharing with them.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

My friends, Patty and Dave, have Corgis and cats in their home.  Patty chooses the cats for her home based on their sociability and confidence with dogs.  She also teaches her dogs to respect the cats right from the start.  Her cats have multiple cat trees, perches, etc. for escape if they need them, and as you can clearly see, dog beds and couches are shared spaces!

Love the Dog You're With

 I had the privilege (and the responsibility!) of helping one of my favorite clients choose her next dog.  I was able to see the puppy and his littermates, as well as one of the parent dogs.  While the situation this puppy came from was less than optimal, and in fact, I would describe it as an impoverished environment for raising healthy and sound puppies, I did find a "diamond in the rough."  One of the puppies, in spite of the chaos and neglect around him, was exceptional; he was most interested in us, but not in a pushy way.  He made eye contact and wanted to be held and cuddled.  He was purposeful in his movement and attentive to new sounds and the different objects I presented him with.  He didn't show fear or apprehension, but was thoughtful in his approach. Most of all, he would walk away from the food bowl to show empathy for a human in need, even though he was clearly hungry.  I felt like this puppy knew there was something better for him out there as I scooped him up and walked away with him.  Not only did he not look back or whine, he climbed right into my client's car and seemed immediately ready for his next task.  We talked all the way home in the car about the conditions this puppy had been living in.  Even though my client paid for this purebred puppy, she said he felt like a rescue nonetheless, and I'd have to agree.  By definition, rescue means to be saved or removed from a dangerous or distressing situation.  That's exactly what we did, we removed this puppy from a distressing situation and brought him into an environment where he will be loved and cared for, and where the environment will be enriching and full of new experiences.  So, why am I telling you all of this?

Many of my clients tell me that they want to rescue a dog, or that they have just rescued a dog, or that their dog is a rescue, with the implication being that this dog had been subjected to trauma or abuse in some way.  Oftentimes, that dog just came from someplace else that wasn't a breeder's home.  Just because a dog came from the shelter or a rescue group doesn't mean that that dog was mistreated or abused.  In fact, most of the dogs that go through the shelter or rescue groups are just dogs whose circumstances changed; life got in the way of keeping the dog in its original home.  A lot of people get a dog with the best of intentions and then realize they are ill-prepared for the day-to-day of dog ownership.  Or maybe the dog had a health or behavioral problem that they original owner couldn't afford to treat.  This means the dog transitioned to a rescue, but wasn't mistreated in any way.  I love this quote (not sure who said it originally as it always seems to be attributed to "anonymous"): "Rescue does not mean damaged. Rather, it means they've been let down by humans."  

And because the word "rescue" is so emotionally charged, and often used inappropriately, I like to encourage prospective dog owners to talk about adopting a dog, rather than rescuing a dog.  Adoption implies opening your home to the care and keeping of another individual, without implying that that individual is somehow "less than ideal."  And, of course, you can adopt a dog from a shelter, a rescue group, or a breeder, your home, your choice!

A lot of thought goes into adopting a new dog, whether that dog is a puppy, adolescent, adult or senior, and whether they come from a shelter, rescue group, or breeder.  It's a lot of responsibility and (hopefully) will be done for the life of that dog.  The reality, however, is that most dogs live in three different "homes" during their lifetime.  That actually feels to me like it might be a conservative estimate.  For example, there is wherever the dog is born (home #1), then maybe the litter is taken to the shelter (home #2).  If it's a purebred dog, it will likely be picked up by a breed rescue group and fostered for adoption (home #3) before being adopted out (hopefully, their final home, #4).  But, again, if circumstances change for the human adopters, that dog could end up back at the shelter or rescue (home #5), before being placed again (home #6).  The resiliency of dogs is nothing short of miraculous!  Dogs can go from home to home, have their names changed, and their schedules altered, and they adapt and more often than not, they thrive.  Dogs really are fascinating, adaptable, creatures.

For now, I'm excited to be on this journey with my client and her new puppy.  She's sending me pictures every few days and keeping me updated on his progress. I'm not worried about him one bit; he will thrive in his new home and be a much loved family member for his entire life.  I am looking forward to watching him grow and develop.  From humble beginnings, I truly believe, he will become a reliable companion dog.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Eleven weeks old and ready for his next adventure!

Helping Others is My Thing!

 I got the nicest message from a woman who discovered one of my video posts on Facebook. A friend of hers had shared it!  She said she had no idea there were people like me out there but she so enjoyed it, that she went back and found a bunch of other videos I'd done.  Then I asked her if she'd happened upon any of my blog posts.  She hadn't, so I sent her links to a couple of blog posts I thought she'd enjoy based on the videos she liked.  So, why did I do this for someone who isn't even a client?  Because I like to help pet owners get the resources they need to succeed.  There is so much misinformation out there that I really want to be part of the solution.  Giving pet owners real ideas and training options to try, whether in my videos or blogs, is part of doing business as far as I'm concerned.  If you read my blogs and follow my videos and try to implement my suggestions for your pets, then I consider myself a success.  You see I really do feel that  helping others is the secret sauce to a happy life (that's a Todd Stocker quote, by the way).  

So, what's my point in telling you this?  No, I'm not trying to toot my own horn.  Rather, I'm reaching out to you, the people who read my blog posts and watch my videos to let me know what kind of content you are looking for.  What do YOU need help with?  What would you like to hear me talk about?  I appreciate those folks who send me their questions, ideas, frustrations, and successes as those guide my creative process when I write and make those videos.  No question is dumb and I love any and all ideas.  And do keep in mind that I'll never say who sent the idea or had the problem; I'm not calling folks out!  I just figure that if this issue is a problem for you and your pet, it's likely a problem for a lot of other pet owners too and we should tackle the problem together. And I do love that several of you have asked for more videos featuring my own dogs!

I want to continue to share what I learn (and have learned) about animals. Yes, I'm still working on my book, but for now it's a work in progress!  Right this minute, I want to focus on those little bits of wisdom, those easy-to-do tips that can improve the relationship you have with your pet.  So, for now, let's continue "meeting" here on social media and keep the conversational ball rolling.

So, what's your burning question for me today?  Drop it in the comments here, or on the social media platform where you read this post.  Let's get started!

I truly feel like this should be my avatar! It's perfect, right?

Hey, Look! Squirrel!

I don't do it very often, but I do occasionally let Ozzie off leash at our neighborhood park.  I only do it when there is no one else around so a 70 lb. frolicking collie doesn't freak anybody out!  When do I do it?  When the squirrels are out and about, of course.  One of Ozzie's great joys in life is chasing squirrels.  They do come into our yard and onto our fence every once in a while, but I think he's terrorized them so much that they've moved on to yards with less active yard guardians! When I take him to the park, I ask him to sit and wait while I unhook his leash.  They I whisper "Go get the squirrels!" and he takes off.  Once he's scattered the squirrels and sent most up into the trees, I whistle for him to come back and he'll trot right on over so I can hook on his leash and we can move on.  

Reading this, I know some of you may have questions. So, why don't I let Ozzie off leash more often if he's that good about recall?  Is is really okay to let a dog chase squirrels?  What would happen if he caught a squirrel? How did you get to the point where you felt safe letting him off leash in the first place if it's not something you do often?

Ozzie and Desi have a lovely backyard and they get walked everyday in our neighborhood.  Desi does pet therapy visits and Ozzie helps me with clients whose dogs are anxious.  For the most part, the activities I do with my dogs involve being on leash, so I've spent a great deal of time working with them on their leash skills.  They both know not to pull, that it's okay to sniff, and that they will never be allowed to meet other dogs while on leash, so no sense pulling or fussing to get to other dogs, it's just not happening. I started out working on their recall in the house (Desi was an adult dog when he came to live with us, and Ozzie was an 8 week old puppy) and built up to recall in our backyard with distractions.  I only use the word "Come!" when calling the dogs for something they'd view as a positive.  If I'm calling them indoors because they're barking, chasing squirrels, etc., I don't use the word "come." Instead, I whistle for them and they come running inside.  They do this reliably because I initially paired doing so with really yummy treats. Occasionally, I still give them treats for hustling themselves indoors when I whistle, but they never know when those treats might be coming.  They always get love and praise for a job well done.  

Before ever letting my dogs off leash anywhere, we worked on a long line. I have a 30 foot leash that I would hook to Ozzie's collar and let him wander off.  I'd let him get distracted by a smell then I'd call him, again whistling because I know whatever he is smelling is much more exciting than me!  When he was a puppy, if he was slow to come, I'd give the long line a gentle tug and then release it, whistling for him again.  Over time, he got to the point where he never needed the reminder tug to come back, he just did, again getting rewards in the form of treats, praise, and attention.  Eventually, I decided to test his recall, and I did so letting him drag that 30 foot line without me holding the end.  He came back every time. I finally made the leap of faith and unhooked the line, and lo and behold, he had great recall even without an obvious leash attached to his collar.  I started out with him off leash just working to call him off of smells, and worked up to calling him away from birds, squirrels, etc.  He's very good at it and I'd consider him to be very reliable.  I've never tested him with wild turkeys or deer as I'm afraid those animals might lure him into a dangerous situation. I have called him off of sheep and goats though in herding and he does move away.  It's really all about practice.

Now, I've done these same exercises with clients and their dogs who want their canine companions to have better, more reliable recall. I've walked them through how and where to practice on their own when I'm not there.  And, yet, some of those dogs are still not reliable off leash.  Why is that, you may ask, if they are doing it the exact same way that I do it with my own dogs?  And the answer is in the genetics of the dog.  Collies are herding dogs, thus they are bred to go out and come back.  They are bred to respond to whistles.  They want to please and they want to perform well.  This is why my border collie clients, bearded collie clients, shepherd clients, etc. all have varying levels of success with these exercises. My clients with Beagles and Spaniels?  Not so much.  Beagles and Spaniels are often lured in by smells and those smells take precedence over all else.  As such, I don't think letting a Beagle or Spaniel off leash in an unfenced area is a good idea.  I do, however, think you still need to practice recall with your Beagles and Spaniels so that their recall is as good as can be for their breed.  And, yes, there are exceptions to every rule. I've met Cavalier King Charles Spaniels with near perfect recall and Corgis who were awful at it, but I truly believe those dogs' skill levels with recall (or lack thereof) was more a byproduct of the amount of time their owners put into the dogs learning it than anything else.

For those of you who wonder if it's humane to let dogs chase squirrels, my answer is of course it is.  The odds of a dog catching a squirrel are slim and dogs need an outlet for their predatory drive just as much as any other animal.  And there are certainly dogs who never chase squirrels because their prey drive is lower.  What do I think Ozzie would do if he caught a squirrel? I think he'd be shocked and I'm pretty sure he'd let it go since the joy for him is in the chase, not the capture.  

So, teach your dogs good recall so that they may have the joy of being off leash, at least on occasion, where it is safe to do so.  Remember to only use the word "Come!" when doing so would be viewed as a positive by your dog. Otherwise, whistle, clap your hands, stomp your feet, pat your thighs, etc.  You can even use the command "Touch!" to get your dog to get close enough to you to tag your hand and check in.  Do work off leash with distractions (leaves blowing, lots of good smells, and birds or squirrels around) and don't forget to bring treats.  Keep your sessions short and positive and NEVER let them off of that long leash until they are reliably returning to you while on it.  Yes, this means never taking them to a dog park even to play until they have good recall. 

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Ozzie on squirrel patrol in the yard!