Why Is My Dog Such a Hater?

I get asked some version of this question all the time:  Why doesn't my dog like other dogs?  When I tell dog owners that it isn't a requirement that their dog actually like other dogs, they often act surprised.  I mean, aren't dogs supposed to socialize with other dogs and enjoy those experiences?  And the answer is no, not necessarily.  Just like some people are more sociable than others, the same goes for dogs.  But let's explore why that's the case, just a little bit deeper.

Ever notice that dogs, in general, seem to get along best with other dogs that look like them?  There's a reason for this.  Boxers like playing with other Boxers, Pit Bulls like playing with other Bully breeds, and Collies do indeed enjoy other Collies.  After spending several hours watching 65 collies run, play, and enjoy each other's company at a recent collie fun day event, I can certainly attest to that! The reason for this affiliation is simple: Familiar body language.  All dogs communicate using primarily body language and dogs who share similar morphologies (body shapes) have similar body language.  Thus, a Boxer with it's smushy face, short tail, and bouncy nature will best be understood by other Boxers who also have smushy faces, short tails, and bouncy dispositions.  Conversely, other dog breeds often find Boxers difficult to read; their smushy faces don't have as much expression, and those short tails also don't give as much information.  And for dogs who don't enjoy boisterous, bouncy play, a Boxer won't be an ideal companion.  Collies and other herding dogs like a good game of chase and use the ear position, tail carriage, and gait of their compatriots to determine who will be the chaser and who will be chased in their interactions.

And, yes, it is certainly true that in addition to body language, body size plays an important part in all of this.  It is often the case that little dogs, though playful, do not enjoy the same kind of rough and tumble play as a bully breed, or a game of chase like an Australian Shepherd, for example.  So, while a Pomeranian might want to play with a Toy Poodle, it's less likely to want to play with that Boxer or the German Shepherd. This doesn't mean your little dog can't be introduced to big dogs (and vice versa), it just means they are unlikely to be ideal playmates without a lot of supervision and management on your part.

So, what does this mean for your dog?  First and foremost take your cues from your dog.  Do they appear interested in other dogs?  Okay, then maybe they do want to socialize and now it's up to you to find appropriate playmates based on what I outlined above; look at their morphology, play style, and size to gauge who might be a good candidate for a playdate.  If your dog is uninterested in other dogs, OR appears fearful, aggressive, agitated, or overstimulated, they heed those cues and don't force interactions.  Dogs don't need to play with other dogs in order to be well-rounded, content canine companions. They do, however, need to be able to walk past other dogs without issue if you intend to walk them in areas populated by other dogs and their owners.

If you are having trouble walking your dog because they are fearful, aggressive, or overstimulated, take a minute to look at what triggers them.  Is it dogs bigger than them?  Smaller than them?  Dogs that stare or posture in a provoking way?  Dogs that bark or whine?  Dogs who are boisterous?  Once you know what triggers your individual dog, you'll have a better idea of how to avoid them. I've had clients tell me that their dogs are set off by every other dog, but that simply wasn't true.  What I observed were dogs triggered by specific body language cues and morphologies of other dogs.  The reason it seemed that their dogs were triggered by everything is that their owners kept exposing them repeatedly to triggers resulting in a situation where their dogs were so overwhelmed that the only way out of the situation was to behave in an over-the-top manner so that their owners would take them home.

If you know your dog is triggered by all that unsupervised, boisterous play at the dog park, then don't take them there.  In fact, time your walks in that area for when there are fewer dogs using the dog park, or even better, walk them somewhere else for a while.  The same goes for walking a different route if there are dogs behind fences who bark, posture, or stare at your dog when you walk by, and that's what triggers your dog. Walking at off peak times and off peak places can really help lessen your dog's anxiety about other dogs AND help them to reset, allowing you to work on strategies for making walking past other dogs on future walks a more attainable goal. 

If you need an easy refresher on dog body language, please revisit my blog on the subject.  For convenience, here's the link:

https://juliebondanimalbehaviorist.blogspot.com/2021/08/canine-body-language-part-1-basics.html

And if you'd like to pick up a great book on the subject, take a look at "Doggie Language: A Dog Lover's Guide to Understanding Your Best Friend," by Lili Chin.  It's a fabulous little book with wonderful, clear drawings and explanations on canine body language.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Just a gaggle of floofs (the smooths were all running the fence line when I took this photo!) enjoying each other's company.  Lots of good body language cues to look at here!

*Burp*

I had a friend over to visit yesterday evening.  Ozzie and Henley were super excited to see him, jumping and bouncing around, bringing him toys, etc.  When he leaned down to ruffle Ozzie's neck floof, Ozzie raised his face, appearing to be going in for a smooch, and promptly burped right in my friend's face!  Even Henley dropped his toy with a horrified look on his face!  Luckily, we just burst out laughing and Ozzie shook it off and moved on.  Why in the world would a dog burp in someone's face?

Dogs burp for the same reasons we do: eating too fast, drinking too quickly, dietary/digestive issues, and excitement or anxiety.  In Ozzie's case, that burp was due to excitement, but he's also been known to burp if he eats too quickly, and Henley burps when he drinks too fast, often spitting out water all over the floor when he does so. Is burping ever a concern?  Well, sure, if it's happening all the time, is associated with coughing or vomiting, or is part of a bigger issue like recurrent diarrhea and a loss of appetite. Otherwise, it's probably not that big of a deal.  If your dog is otherwise healthy, but does burp frequently, there are things you can do to decrease the frequency of those gassy outbursts.

Slow feeder bowls, snuffle mats, and even just spreading the food out on a flat surface will slow down how quickly your dog eats, thus he will capture less air due to gulping.  Smaller, more frequent meals can also mean less air swallowed. It's also true that giving high fat diets or treats, and those that are harder to digest like popcorn, for example, can lead to burping more frequently. Focus on giving a high quality diet, with a good balance of fats, carbohydrates, and proteins, and limit the fatty snacks and popcorn. And for those excited or anxious burping dogs, try to keep the environment calm, particularly at mealtimes.  You can keep them on leash for greetings to control jumping, spinning, and bouncing.  Teach them to sit in place and wait for guests to greet them instead. And if their anxiety is overwhelming, try crating them when people arrive and then letting them out, on leash, after the initial excitement settles.  And if their anxiety is strictly about excitement and enthusiasm, and not about aggression or fear, you might even be able to give them something like CBD oil to help calm their nerves and control those nervous burps.

I'm pretty sure Ozzie would be mortified if he knew I'd told the world he burped in someone's face.  He's been working so hard to fill Desi's shoes and be a good pet assisted therapy dog, and burping in faces isn't high on the list of behaviors for pet therapy animals!  Luckily, Ozzie is mostly calm on his visits, not anxious or overly excited, so he's unlikely to burp in those situations.  He is a collie, however, so burps could still happen.  Every collie we've ever had was a burper, versus our Labrador who could clear a room with her flatulence.  But that's a different story all together.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Mr. Burps himself.  But don't tell him I told you!

Thinking Outside of the Box

I had a wonderful conversation with a client after her appointment was done. She actually called me from her car on her way home because she wanted to share her thoughts while they were fresh in her mind.  So, why did she call?  Because she appreciated my "outside of the box" approach.  I laughed and thanked her for making my day, but it really got me thinking.  Are my techniques, recommendations, and treatment plans really that "outside the box?"  I guess for some people, they really are, while for others my approach aligns with either their own personal views or validates what their veterinarian or trusted dog trainer told them, and that works too.

I like to think of myself as progressive in my approach to animal behavior. I certainly remember what I learned in college and graduate school, but I think what I've learned on the job all these years has influenced my approach more than anything else.  Knowing that what works for one animal might not work for another, meaning you can't just apply the same techniques to every anxious dog, for example, and expect the same outcome.  Every animal is unique and while they may present as anxious, how they got there in the first place is their own journey and what I'm left to figure out in order to help them AND help their human caretaker.

As the years have gone by, I've really begun to dread the misinformation spread on the internet and through social media.  While this misinformation certainly extends beyond the realm of animals and their behavior, I'm going to limit my comments to that.  Whether you are searching for answers, help, or validation, know the sources you are using.  Asking your veterinarian beats Google every time.  And asking a behaviorist is better than Reddit, hands down.

And if you want to know where I go to continue my educational journey, I read.  I read A LOT.  I'm currently reading Zazie Todd's newest book, "Bark! The Science of Helping Your Anxious, Fearful or Reactive Dog." It's terrific and will be one I recommend to dog owners just starting their journey with an anxious or fearful dog. And for those of you who have been managing your fearful, anxious, or reactive dog for years, you'll still enjoy this book as it will validate that you've been doing all of the right things to enhance your dog's quality of life.

So, I'm going to continue thinking "outside of the box" for a few more years, at least.  I'll eventually retire, probably devoting more of my time to writing, gardening, and everything collie. But in the meantime, my quest for new ways to help you help your pets remains my purpose.

And, as always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

So, Henley has skin problems as most of you know.  He gets twice weekly baths and in between baths, he gets a mousse applied to any skin irritations to keep him from drawing attention to those spots and licking or scratching them. The problem?  He wants to lick the mousse as soon as it's applied!  My (maybe?) outside the box solution? Get him working on tasks until the mousse soaks in and he no longer wants to lick it! We worked on tap today, one of his favorites.  Basically, I move my feet and sort of dance with him and he has to tap the tops of my feet as they move. He loves this game so much, that even when I stop, he often tries to get me to play more by doing what you see in this picture.  The good thing is, he's not licking the mousse or himself.  The badish thing?  I can't move my foot now.

The Magic Pill!

It's happened too many times to count.  A client reaches out for help with their pet, asking for a recommendation to a medication that will "make the situation better," "cure the aggression," or "make their dog like other dogs/people."  I always refer to this as the "magic pill." A lot of people look for magic pills for themselves (to help with weight loss, increase their energy, etc.) and they definitely look for them for their beloved pets.  The problem, however, is the same; there are no magic pills, at least none that I've found yet.  While cannabinoids (CBD) help some pets (and people), others remained unaffected by them.  And while it's certainly true that anxiolytic medications like Prozac, for example, can be helpful for some people and pets, it isn't a miracle cure.  Work still needs to be done on behavior modification, including counterconditioning, increasing mental stimulation, and avoiding the triggers that lead to the anxiety and aggression. Oftentimes, pet owners don't really want to put in the work that is necessary to make drug therapy an effective, adjunct means of helping their pet overcome their anxiety; they just want the pet to "be better" or "do better."  And sometimes they want their pet to be something that it really isn't: sociable, approachable, friendly with everyone, and normal, whatever normal really is.

We've talked about this before: you have to love the dog you're with, not the dog you thought you were getting.  Every dog has a unique personality as a result of their genetics, early environmental factors, and socialization experiences. No single factor creates an anxious dog; for most dogs with anxiety, there was a genetic predisposition and then repeated exposure to triggers exacerbated the problem.  For example, that shy puppy you picked from the litter because he was calm and quiet?  Remember when you took him to puppy class and he freaked out, squealing if anyone walked toward him?  Remember when he hid during class and wouldn't let the instructor or anyone else touch him? And then when you took him to the vet, he tried to hide again and snapped when he was pulled out from under the bench? Well, that puppy was always going to be an anxious dog.  He was oddly reserved at 8 weeks old when he was chosen, he was painfully introverted and fearful around other dogs and people at class, and he displayed fear aggression with the vet. No amount of socializing is going to make this dog into something he's not.  And giving him Prozac alone, without adding in mental stimulation and appropriate physical exercise, isn't going to solve the problem either.  This puppy will need life-long management, and drug therapy more than likely, to have a good quality of life. His owners will need to protect him from his triggers as best as they can, not push him when he's uncomfortable, and keep guests in their home safe. He isn't going to be a park dog, beach dog, or out for lunch companion. He will likely need to learn cooperative care and be muzzle trained for safety at the groomer and at the vet's office. 

For me, I like to think of the magic in these situations as coming from the owners themselves.  Some pet owners just get it; maybe they too, have anxiety, or they have a family member with anxiety.  They know what it will take to make that pet feel safe, loved, and comfortable; they also know what will trigger their pets and they avoid those triggers as best as they can.  They don't ask for a magic pill to make it all better; they ask if there is something they can give their pet that will help with their quality of life. They are willing and able to put in the work and admit that while this isn't the dog they signed up for, they love him nonetheless.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Anxiety can present in many ways. Take my granddog, Westley, for example. He is very noise sensitive when it comes to garbage trucks and squeaky hydraulic brakes on buses and heavy construction equipment.  But fireworks? He could care less. Screaming children?  He loves them.  Aggressive dogs?  He ignores them.  So what do we do? We protect him from what triggers him, using white noise machines and fans, and his crate is his safe space.  Westley is thriving despite his anxiety!

Why Did He Do That?!

I was out with my buddy, Loki, last Saturday.  It was a beautiful morning, actually on the cooler side which was a nice change from the crazy hot weather we've been having.  At one point Loki sniffed the air, then he dropped and began rolling around on the wet grass, smiling ear to ear, and really enjoying himself.  A woman pushing a stroller walked by us and then stopped, apparently because she couldn't figure out why I was letting Loki just roll around.  She actually asked me, "Why in the world is your dog rolling around like that?! Is he okay?!" Clearly not a dog owner, amiright? She asked if he was having a seizure!  That quite literally cracked me up. No, I told her.  He's not having a seizure. He's having a moment of joy!  The grass is wet and it feels good to roll around.  Plus, Loki knows if he grins my direction while rolling, I'll lean down and scratch his tummy and armpits, his favorite thing in the world.  She still looked perplexed as she walked away, shaking her head, but that's okay.  Dogs aren't for everybody!  And here's the truth of the matter:  Dogs roll around for many reasons beyond the joy of wet grass.

Dogs roll on the ground because their world is based in scents.  A dog who's just been bathed/groomed will roll around (if allowed to) drying himself off in the process.  Some dogs roll around post grooming, even if they are dry, as they are trying to get rid of the "clean dog smell" in favor of something more earthy and "normal," or familiar, from their perspective. Dogs will roll in mud or damp leaves to cool off.  They'll roll in smelly things like seaweed, horse manure, and cow patties for the joy of smelling like those delightfully stinky things.  They may also be doing so to disguise their own scent. So, rolling dries them, cools them, gets rid of a smell, adds a new smell, and of course, brings them joy.

And then, there are the dogs like Henley.  Henley rolls on his back to scratch.  He has a lot of allergies (it's why I bathe him twice a week!), but rolling on his back allows him to scratch spots he can't reach.  And Ozzie?  He rolls around, mostly rubbing his face, as he likes to clean up his mouth post water or food that way. So my two dogs are rolling around as some kind of individualized grooming ritual. It's interesting to me that after Ozzie has done this face cleaning, or Henley has scratched his back by rolling on the rug, each of them will go to that spot, drop down for a deep sniff, and often paw that spot.  Clearly, rolling around like that has left the other dog's scent behind and they know it!

I really do enjoy watching dogs do, well, just what dogs do.  And it is kind of fun when you meet someone who isn't a dog person as their perception of what us dog owners see everyday is quite different. Just for fun, share why your dogs roll around or if they even might be the ones sleeping on their backs, all four feet up in the air!

And as always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Here's Loki, post-roll, getting his scritches in!

Why Can't We Be Friends?

I just met yesterday with a lovely young couple who recently moved to San Francisco from the Midwest.  They had chosen San Francisco because they had read online about it being one of the most dog-friendly cities in California and they were eager to be able to take their adolescent Boston Terrier more places with them.  They were also hoping that they'd be able to find him a few playmates, whose owners they might like too, since they don't really know many people here yet other than their coworkers, and those are all virtual! So far, however, it's been a total bust; either their dog didn't like the other dogs they've met, or my clients didn't like the dogs' humans!  They'd met with their new veterinarian to update their dog's vaccines and that's how they'd heard about me and reached out for help.

This was such an interesting appointment!  I wasn't there because their dog had any specific behavioral issues; he didn't even really have any training issues.  I was there to help this couple and their dog find some social opportunities here in the Bay Area that would get them off to a great start.

We took their dog for a walk so I could observe him (and them) out in public.  I made suggestions about where to walk and explore, including places other clients regularly use and love like Fort Funston, Strawberry Hill, the Presidio, and Dolores Park. I did tell them that they would need to visit these places several times, and on different days, to get a feel for the areas and the dog owners that use them.  While Fort Funston is an off leash dog haven, dogs are primarily on leash at Strawberry Hill and Dolores Park.  I told them that they should really think about their ultimate goal; was it truly to find their dog a dog friend, or was it for them to find like-minded, dog-owning humans to hang out with? These are not necessarily the same thing.  They could send their dog to doggie daycare to make friends and socialize with other dogs, BUT if they really wanted to make friends themselves, then they were going to have to get out a lot more than they've been doing.  On a recommendation from my daughter, I even suggested that they try online groups like MeetUp and Bumble BFF to find couple friends with similar interests.  They'd never even thought of that!

I agree that it can be harder to make new friends when you first move to a new area, but while it may seem overwhelming, it's really not.  You just have to put yourself out there and be okay with not every connection working out.  Finally, I suggested they consider volunteering with Furry Friends, the pet assisted therapy group I work with, given that they are both very interested in volunteerism AND their dog loves meeting new people.  Through an organization like Furry Friends, I know this couple will definitely connect with other like-minded dog owners, including many who live outside of San Francisco, thus expanding where they cast their net for new friends and new connections.

We can't make our dogs like certain other dogs, or even certain people.  And our dogs may like people or other dogs that we ourselves don't.  That's just how it works!  You can't force a dog to like who you like, though you can hedge your bets by including good treats and a lot of positive reinforcement on those first meetings in the hopes of making a great first impression.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

My daughter met a lot of like minded dog owners hiking in Los Angeles County when she lived there.  Ozzie and I often joined her and Westley on their hikes which were quite enjoyable, except for the mud.  Rough collies definitely get dirtier than smooths as this photo aptly proves!

If You Just Need a Plan!

I worked with a wonderful client over the weekend who told me that she just needed a training plan for her new dog.  She likened it to the workout program her personal trainer gave her for getting back into shape. She said what she really wanted, and hoped I could provide, was a simple outline of what she should be doing everyday with her dog to make sure he was headed in the right direction.  She indicated, too, that she'd tried to find simple guidelines like this online, but ended up down a rabbit hole of suggestions and exercises, some of which she was pretty sure weren't good for her dog! So, when I told her she really just needed to put in about 5-10 minutes a day to reach her goals for her dog, she was ecstatic!  This was something she could commit to and she took out a notebook to write down the plan.  Here's what I told her:

1.  Work everyday on the important behaviors you need your dog to reliably do.  Run through them quickly and efficiently, kind of like stretching before you go for a run.  Then spend the remainder of your training with your dog working on a new/fun skill/behavior.

2.  The basic behaviors I think every dog should be able to do reliably:  sit, down, stay, stand, come, drop it, leave it, and walk nicely on leash.  My client's dog had reliable sits and downs, but that was about it.  So, we worked together on luring him into the other behaviors.  I showed her how to turn leave it and drop it into a game so her dog would be more likely to comply rather than resist giving up treasured things he finds.  And for the loose leash walking, I told her to work indoors, sans leash, luring her dog using treats and her voice FIRST, before moving outdoors with a leash and trying the same techniques.

3.  The list of behaviors I gave her for adding in fun/new skills:  touch, bow, turn, through, back it up, sit up, dance, spin, speak, whisper, flop, and roll over. I then had Henley demonstrate each of those skills for her!  He did each skill twice, once for her to observe, and once for her to see how I got the behavior in the first place.  

4.  Don't get frustrated!  Rome wasn't built in a day, as my grandmother used to say.  It might take her dog weeks to get through just the basics and that's absolutely okay!  But, even if he's still struggling with the basics, she should introduce something new and fun every day to try, learning how to keep his brain engaged and keep herself motivated.

5.  Always end on a positive note.  Regardless of how that 5-10 minute session went, always end the session with something easy or fun that your dog will be 100% successful doing, even if it's "just a sit."  Because, you know what?  A dog who can sit still, even for just a few seconds, has potential and that should be rewarded and celebrated!

We will be meeting again in two weeks to check her progress.  She referred to that as accountability for herself!  In the meantime, she's going to send me video progress reports which should be fun for us both.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

I simply could not resist sharing this picture of my granddog, Westley!  

My daughter taught him to do "junkyard dog face!" This trick is hysterical.  When I've tried it with Henley, he just ends up yawning or sneezing!

An Ode To Those Gutted Stuffy-Fluffies!

I know Henley is not the only dog out there who can gut a toy in two minutes flat. I mean completely wreck it, stuffing all over the place and giant holes where those cute stuffed limbs used to be.  Even toys labeled "indestructible" are no match for Henley; they will have a chunk taken out of them in seconds. He is a dog with a singular purpose, gut the toy and call it a win.  I just roll my eyes, pick up the pieces and move on, but I've started thinking about this a bit differently recently, mostly because he's the first dog I've ever had (and I've had a LOT of dogs) who was this single-minded with toys.

How about if we look at this as a necessary behavior?  Dogs are animals and animals, by their very nature, must hunt and kill to survive.  Now, dogs have been domesticated for over 30,000 years, but who's to say that predatory drive isn't still there?  Maybe it's just the case that some of our dogs have more of a predatory drive than others, and while they may exercise that drive by chasing squirrels, birds, and neighborhood cats (Henley does that too!), some also direct that prey drive at their toys.

If you watch a dog taking apart a toy, and believe you me, I've had a lot of opportunities to do so with Henley, there is a method to his destruction.  He is focused, toy poised between his front paws, or pinned to the floor with one paw, as he snaps at it, shakes it, and rips his first hole. Once that first hole is made, he often moves to a new place, laying down to get a better angle, as he starts pulling out the stuffing, literally dissecting it. Now, fortunately for me, he's never eaten any stuffing, squeakers, etc.  He just leaves those spoils for me to clean up, which I do promptly.  Once a toy is gutted, he's done with it.  He might return to it later to see if he can pull it apart some more, but for the most part, once it's gutted, he just carries around the empty carcass until something new catches his eye. Or he nods off.

I'm now starting to think of Henley as a captive animal, not just my beloved pet dog.  I wouldn't give a second thought to a captive wolf tearing apart a carcass!  But Henley is stuck in my house with me (and Ozzie), and his toys are his outlet for this very natural, normal behavior. He is genetically wired for this, as he's been doing it since we brought him home.  What does it mean for me long term? It means I buy a lot of toys for Henley, varying the texture, durability (I hope), and size to keep his interest.  If a toy is able to be repaired, I re-stuff it, sew it up, and put it back into the rotation. If it's beyond repair, I toss it.  And the best part of all of this is that this dog has NEVER chewed up anything that wasn't one of his toys; he's never touched a blanket, pillow, cushion, chair, etc.  Not once.  All of his predatory drive and chewing behavior has been directly appropriately to the toys that are his.  I'm actually quite proud of him for that, and frankly relieved, as were he chewing my stuff, it would be a lot more expensive to replace!

So, if you, too, have a dog who likes to dissect toys, try thinking of it as a natural part of the predatory sequence and part of life as a captive animal. It's our responsibility to keep our dogs entertained with appropriate outlets for their mental and physical exercise.  Finally, if any of you have durable toy recommendations, Henley and I are all ears.  Well, he's all ears, but I'm listening too!

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

I also buy Henley lots of hard, ridged, flavored, bone-type toys to chew on.  He loves these and I find them in every room, especially when I step on them in the middle of the night!

A Bit More on Reactivity

I have had so many new clients approach me for help with their "reactive" dogs.  I find this interesting because using that terminology to describe a dog's behavior really wasn't a thing until just a few years ago. Now, however, I hear it batted around and used quite frequently to describe dogs who do everything from bark at the TV to biting the neighbor!  It seems that many owners with aggressive dogs prefer to use the term reactive, thinking that this will make the problem seem less serious.  This is troubling because an aggressive dog has a very different problem than a dog whose barking has become an issue. 

By definition, reactive just means responding to a stimulus or acting in response to a situation.  Well, you know what?  We all do that.  The doorbell rings and you jump up and answer the door.  Are you reactive? Yes, because you acted upon a stimulus you received.  Now, I'm not trying to be difficult here; I simply want everyone, dog owners included, to think about the words they use to describe behavior. If your dog is afraid of sounds, then he's noise sensitive.  If your dog barks at the neighbor's dog at their shared fence line, then he's territorial. If your dog charges at guests, biting at their pants leg, then your dog is aggressive. And yet, all three of the dogs I just described came to me with the label "reactive." I do want to help all three of these dogs, but helping them means helping you, and you can help me by telling me what's really going on. I'm not going to judge your dog parenting skills, I just need to know exactly what's happening. Was is really a nip?  Or was it a bite?  Is the barking just at the fence, or is your dog barking at the TV, your kids running in the yard, and on walks? And those noises that set your dog off; are they barking dogs on the TV screen, the garbage trucks in your neighborhood, or the sound of your ice maker?  All of these details are important for diagnosis and treatment, and way more important that any labels.

So, while I agree that noise sensitive dogs, barking dogs, and aggressive dogs are all anxious dogs at the heart of the matter, I don't think calling them reactive helps at all.  All of these dogs have the capacity to learn a different behavioral response to their triggers.  Getting frustrated and labeling them disobedient or stubborn won't help either.  What they are is anxious and their anxiety is keeping them from hearing you.  

OK.  Hopping down off of my soap box now and calling back that dog owner that left me a message this morning about their reactive dog.  I know one thing for sure, their dog is anxious.  Now, I just need to figure out if he's afraid, obsessive, lacking physical or mental exercise, or aggressive.  Or some combination of all of those things.  But, you know me. I'm on it!

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Here's my sweet granddog, Westley.  Westley doesn't like the sounds made by garbage trucks, city buses, and street sweepers.  Does this make him reactive?  Well, yes, he's reacting to a stimulus and responding with fear.  Is he anxious?  Absolutely, but we've worked hard with him to understand the safe spaces in our home, and he now goes there when he hears a triggering noise.  He is less anxious overall as he's in control of the outcome.  That's the key with treating anxiety.

The Dog Who Didn't Like Hugs

Not the hugs you are thinking of though.  This is a dog who doesn't like it when the humans hug, and more specifically doesn't like it when anyone hugs mom.  The owners thought it was kind of cute, at first.  But then, they noticed that it wasn't really all that funny when the dog started jumping up, interrupting hugs, and shoving people apart.  It became especially concerning when he escalated to nipping anyone who tried to shove him away.  The final straw?  Mom was sitting on the couch with the dog laying next to her.  One of the kids came up behind her and leaned over the couch to hug her and the dog jumped up and bit the child in the face, necessitating a trip to the emergency room and a handful of stitches.  Such a desperately sad situation for this family, but one that really should have been dealt with long before the dog chose to bite to make his point.  Whether you want to say that this dog suffers from resource guarding aggression with mom being the resource, or you choose to label him as a protective aggressor, it doesn't really matter.  The bottom line is that he's now bitten a child, a child who he's lived with his whole life and who walks him every day, plays ball with him, and even gives him treats. This dog had given this family many warnings that a bite *could* happen and they ignored those warnings thinking he'd never actually bite anyone.  They still believed this to be the case right up until the bite to their son.

Their veterinarian, and a friend of the family, had recommended me to this family more than once.  Apparently, the dog didn't like the vet hugging mom when she brought him into the clinic for a vaccine. When the vet saw this, she knew what she was seeing, but her recommendations were downplayed and she stopped hugging her friend when she saw her.  After the bite, however, she couldn't keep quiet anymore, asking them why they hadn't reached out to me for guidance as she'd strongly suggested?

While it may be hard to admit that  your dog has a behavior problem, ignoring the problem will not make it go away.  More importantly, when you are dealing with issues in aggression, burying your head in the sand or making excuses for your dog puts others at risk.  In this case, a child. So, here were my recommendations to this family:

At this point, the dog is a proven biter.  He has demonstrated that he is willing to escalate to a serious bite if someone touches his female owner in his presence.  Going forward, this dog must be confined when people arrive and go through the hugging rituals of human greetings.  When guests are in the house, he must be on leash and tethered in place on his dog bed; he cannot be allowed on furniture or at his female owner's feet any more.  The owners will need to muzzle train him so that when he can't be confined or tethered for some reason, he'll be prohibited from biting.  And yes, HE WILL BITE AGAIN if they don't complete all of these steps.  The bottom line, however, is that I don't think that this dog is a good fit for this family any longer.  He should be in a home with a single human or couple who will enforce boundaries and keep him under threshold for his guarding behavior.  Given that their veterinarian had recommended euthanizing the dog, my treatment plan though difficult, seemed like something they were willing to try.  The kids love this dog, even the child who was bitten thought it was his fault for "surprising the dog when I hugged mom."

I really hope this family heeds all of my warnings and boundaries are rigorously enforced with this dog.  He actually is a pretty nice dog overall, a bit pushy, but not bad, as long as you don't try to hug his female owner, so we'll see how it goes.  The liability is still there and that's never going away.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Here's Henley, asleep in the crook of my legs on the couch.  Anyone can sit on the couch next to us, or hug me when he's there.  He just figures one more person available for him to cuddle with and love on.  He does try to block Ozzie from getting attention, but it doesn't come from a place of guarding, he's just competitive and Ozzie always lets him know where he stands in the pecking order.

If You Take a Dog to a Party...

They should be a well-behaved guest! Being able to take your dogs with you when you are out and about is a privilege, not a right, for those of us with pet/companion dogs; only service dogs are afforded rights to be in public spaces with their handlers, unrestricted.  For the rest of us, we really need to take an honest look at our dogs, how they behave (or don't!), what they enjoy doing (and don't!), and what our plan is if we are out in public and our dog has a meltdown.  As any parent of a toddler will tell you, you have to have a plan for those untimely meltdowns!

I do try to take my dogs with me whenever I can; I think it's good for them to get out and see new places and meet new people, and have novel experiences. It's mentally stimulating for them and good practice for me to see where they are with their distractions training, for example.  Ozzie has gotten to be an old pro at this, having stepped into Desi's rather large pet assisted therapy dog shoes.  Ozzie does one pet therapy visit each month, and I also try to take him to coffee or lunch with me once a month as well, just so we can have one-on-one time and he can get a break from Henley.  Henley isn't ready for pet therapy visits yet as he still can be a little bouncy with new people.  I take him out, however, as I like to walk him around populated malls and busy stores as I want him to continue to improve.  For his recent stage presentations, he had to walk through a parking garage, board an elevator, go through automated doors, greet new people, greet new dogs, pose for pictures AND perform alongside me onstage.  He did great, but he was still bouncy in a few of his greetings, so we'll keep working on that.  You might be thinking, "Well why didn't you take Ozzie for those presentations?" Well, the answer is that I didn't take Ozzie because he'd have hated doing that!  Ozzie knows a lot of tricks, can do elevators, etc., but having screaming kids running at and around him isn't his cup of tea. In fact, screaming kids make him anxious, so I avoid taking him places where that's likely to occur.  Now, he's certainly heard/seen screaming kids when we've been in restaurants, and while he'll alert to the sounds, he doesn't get anxious as he's pretty sure those screaming kids are going to stay at their table and not encroach on his space. Henley, on the other hand, loves kids, screaming or not.  He figures screaming kids need a collie to hug and that's his approach.

So, why am I telling you this?  Every single one of us needs to know our own dog and be mindful of the situations we put them into.  While there are certainly steps you can take with your training to prepare your dog for being in public spaces more often, you do need to keep their personality/temperatment in mind always.  If your dog is a total introvert for whom loud noises, screaming kids, and random approaches from strangers might trigger anxiety, don't force them to do it.  Instead, choose hikes or park excursions for that dog, at off peak times, so that they can experience working with you away from home, but not be forced to deal with situations and people who create anxiety.  Yes, you can certainly still take your introvert with you to busy malls, events, etc., just remember that doing so is stressful for them.  Weigh your options: Is taking them with you in their best interest, or is it that you just want to do so? And if your dog doesn't like being approached or petted by strangers, please don't take them with you as it puts you and your dog at risk.  People are going to approach you and many will try to pet your dog without asking. I know, I know. They should ask, but frankly they often don't and you don't want to put someone, or your dog, at risk.

Training your dog in public access skills is a worthwhile endeavor and a good way to mentally stimulate any dog.  Start with simple outings such as walking to the post office or bank, sitting quietly next to you while you drop mail in the box or use the ATM machine.  Work up to taking your dog into dog-friendly stores and walking them around the displays.  Have your dog sit each time you stop walking.  Do not allow extensive sniffing, rubbing on displays, etc. Brief sniffs are fine. Find stores with stairs and elevators so that you can practice both.  Stairs come in all forms, some you can see between the stairs, others are solid, some are made of wood, and others are slippery or covered in carpeting that can retain odors.  Practice all of those different kinds of stairs, encouraging your dog to go slowly, stopping at the top and sitting before descending. Do not allow your dog to linger or sniff excessively on the stairs. On the elevator, you can start with having your dog stand next to you, but work up to having them sit next to you or between your legs so that they don't take up too much space or block someone else's access to that elevator.

When you are working on taking your dog to eating establishments, do take it slow. If your dog is still surfing counters at home, you'll want to have that issue addressed before you try to walk through a restaurant where people have food on their tables as you pass by!  Start simple with a coffee shop, yogurt shop, or smoothie place.  Sit at a table with your dog and offer them treats for sitting calmly at your side or laying at your feet. Don't bribe them to behave, instead reward them when they do. If they can't focus or are fidgety, just pick up your coffee/yogurt/smoothie and move on; you can try again another day.  Once your dog is good at those coffee shops, you can move on to a casual restaurant, just remember that a busy restaurant on a weekend may be more than your dog can handle that first time out in public.  Maybe try that restaurant on a weekday and work up to a busy weekend. Dog friendly restaurants are terrific, but they get busy and if there are a lot of dogs there, that may be too much your first few trips out together.  Don't push it.  You want your dog to enjoy going out to restaurants with you, not dread them.  And take some advice from those toddler parents and walk your dogs outside the restaurant if they become fidgety, bored, or start acting up.  Don't allow your dog (or your kids!) to impinge upon the dining experiences of others.  Nothing gives kids or dogs a worse rep than when they are ill-behaved in public and their parents/owners do nothing about it.  Consequences are important! We need to be fair to the other diners around us and keep our dogs away from their tables.  And by the same token, those parents need to keep their kids at their own table as well.  And remember not to allow your dog to block the path for the servers just trying to do their jobs. If you have a big dog, ask for a table in a corner where you can keep your dog closer to the wall and not block pathways.

Just as those toddler parents have baby bags filled with what they need to survive out in public, so should dog owners!  Carry your own water, water bowl, treats, a mat/towel for your dog to lay on, and of course poop bags.  You can even bring a bone or other busy toy for your dog to chew on, just make sure the toy you've brought isn't messy or noisy. When Henley was a young puppy, I used to always bring a bone and a bullystick with me, allowing him to chew on one for a bit, and then switching it up.  It took most of his first year practicing for him to get to the point where he can now go to a busy restaurant and hang out with me for an hour.  He's not ready yet for much longer than that, but he'll get there.  For now, I don't push him and we keep practicing! He's been the most challenging collie I've ever owned from the standpoint of teaching calm behaviors. Henley is super-smart, loves to problem solve, is bold and fearless, and is only now understanding the pleasure that comes from sitting still and observing the world.  Calm was not in Henley's vocabulary for much of his first year.  Now, at almost 18 months, he's beginning to see how fun it is to be out in public, calmly accepting attention from new people, and being able to further explore the world as he becomes more proficient at handling what busy public spaces have to offer. Slow and steady wins the race, and if he had never really gotten it, that would have been fine too. It just would have meant less time out in public and more time working at home. He'd still be a great dog, but now that he's gotten a little older, he can go more places and I trust him to make better choices when we're there.  And if he's having an off day, I don't push him. Just as I've cut pet therapy visits short for Ozzie because I could see he was done, I don't push Henley to remain out in public longer than he's able.  If he gets fussy or fidgety, we're out of there.

I hope that gives you a training path to pursue more time out in public spaces with your dogs.  If you still have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Here's Henley just calmly watching the people go by at our Golden State Warriors event in San Francisco.  He's in a sit/stay, dropped leash just loose on the ground.  Six months ago, I wouldn't have dropped his leash like that and walked away for a photo; he'd have wanted to get to the other dogs and people going by. Now, he's able to do this, no problem.  Henley is maturing, clearly loving his time out in public and teaching people all about smooth collies!

How Often Should You Take Classes With Your Dog?

After I posted last week's blog about my upcoming therapy pets training class, I had several clients reach out and ask how often they should be taking classes with their dogs and what kind of classes they should be taking.  I love that each and every one of them who asked me this had their dog's best interests in mind when they asked!  Obviously, they were concerned that they might not be doing enough, or doing the right things, to ensure their dogs are living mentally and physically stimulating lives. So, here are my thoughts:

There is no set number or timing of classes for your dogs, though I will say that doing at least one round of puppy classes between the ages of 3 months and 9 months of age is a must, in my opinion.  Ideally, puppy owners will start with a basics/socialization class and then move on to an adolescent manners class of some kind.  Whether those puppies go on to do more obedience classes, or specialized classes, is really up to their guardians and what those individual dogs might need.  

You see, some humans enjoy taking classes because the classes are structured, are a set number of hours of instruction, and occur in a controlled environment.  By the same token, some humans don't like classes BECAUSE they are structured and limited to the time frame set by the instructor.  Those humans might prefer to schedule private lessons, so to speak, for their dogs.  And then there are a lot of humans who prefer to do their dog's training on their own, when it suits them.  There is nothing wrong with any of these approaches to dog training, as long as, you are committing yourself to doing the work one way or the other.

You don't need to take classes every day, every week, or even every month, though I certainly know dog owners who do all of those things.  What I usually suggest is committing to 5-10 minutes of training every single day; maybe you get more than that because you take your dog to an hour class, or you get less than than because your work schedule keeps you busy.  It's an average: If every day you focus on your dog's behavior for 5-10 minutes, you will have a reasonably well behaved companion dog. You can spread out the 10 minutes, focusing on things like sitting and waiting to go through doorways every time you do so, for example, or maybe you are working on stay in place on a dog bed.  Don't spend an hour doing either, just incorporate a few minutes here and there throughout the day, when the situations arise naturally. Just remember to have those treats in your pocket to pay the appropriate behaviors when they happen!

I think most dogs enjoy learning tricks and most humans enjoy teaching them, so I like to incorporate tricks training into almost every treatment plan I devise for my clients' dogs.  For dogs who need more action than that, I like to send them to learn agility, parkour, or even herding. For dogs who have some good basic obedience skills, I think a rally class is a great idea.  But, again, you can teach your dog agility, parkour, and rally on your own, in your own yard, at your own pace, you just need the equipment to do so.

So, I guess my answer to the original question is take classes as often as you want to, if your dog enjoys them, but don't force yourself to continually enroll in classes if you find they aren't working for you or they are causing additional anxiety for your dog.  If that's the case, opt instead to do the training on your own, or one-on-one with a trainer, at a pace that works for you and for your dog.  Less anxiety all around.

And as always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Classes can be a great way to socialize for humans as well as for the dogs!

Does Your Dog Have What It Takes To Be A Therapy Dog?

As most of you already know, I've been involved in pet assisted therapy work since the late 1990's, though I did some research on the subject and piloted a program on the UC Davis campus back in the late 1980's as well. I've seen the obvious benefits of pet therapy for patients many times (reduced heart rate, slowed breathing, increased sociability, etc.) as well as some of the less obvious ones which include the benefits to the volunteers and their pets participating themselves in pet assisted therapy programs.

As I have in previous years, I will be teaching a three session series on pet assisted therapy for Molly's AdobeDogs Dog Training in Los Altos. The course begins on Saturday, August 17, at 11 a.m. The first class will cover what is involved in pet therapy work, the logistics of preparing yourself and your pet to participate, and an overview of the types of visits that you can do. The second class will cover other, more advanced forms of pet therapy including reading visits with children, off leash visits with at-risk or incarcerated youth, and animal assisted services, a specialized form of pet therapy where animals serve a direct role in the rehabilitation process, or within a clinical setting, for the patients they serve. The final class will cover the different pet therapy organizations you can join, including national groups, as well as local groups here in the San Francisco Bay Area. During the final class I will also do mock evaluations of the pets attending this class to give their owners a better idea of their pets' readiness to participate as pet assisted therapy animals.

In the past, this course has been limited, obviously, to pet owners local enough to Los Altos to be able to attend class three Saturday mornings in a row. This time around, I am hoping to open this class up to anyone interested in it by creating a virtual classroom on Zoom so that others across the country, and maybe even around the world, can attend. For those of you who are local and want to attend, here is the link to sign up: https://adobedogs.dogbizpro.com/public/registration/index.aspx?schedule=1266

For those of you out of the area who would like more information on attending the classes via Zoom, please email me or send me a message through Facebook, Instagram, Threads, etc. and I will get that information to you. You would still need to be able to view the class when it is “live,” so 11 a.m. PST on August 17. I will have someone monitor the Zoom classroom space for questions from those participants who are not present in the actual classroom, so everyone's questions can be heard and addressed in real time.

I'm very much looking forward to teaching this class as I've not taught it in over a year and I've not had the opportunity to offer any classes via Zoom as yet, so this trial run will allow me to determine the feasibility of other Zoom classes with me in the future.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

My daughter and I on a pet therapy visit with Desi many years ago.

Senior Humans Make Awesome Pet Owners!

I've had a lot of older clients over the years, especially since I moved back to the east bay area where we have several large, vibrant, retirement communities populated by conscientious pet owners.  That's one of the attributes I love most about senior pet owners, they are conscientious to a fault. They take notes during our appointments, they always schedule their follow up before I leave that first appointment, and they ask great questions, actually listening to my answers.  It's not that younger pet owners don't listen, it's just that many of them are in such a hurry to get to "the punchline," that they miss all of the steps needed to help their pet actually get there safely.

Here's something I find really frustrating though.  Many of my senior clients had a terrible time acquiring their new pets.  Why, you might ask?  Well, because many rescue groups and shelters actually discriminate against older pet owners!  I understand that rescues and shelters don't want to place an animal that they see as too rambunctious, too powerful, etc. with a senior pet owner, but many seniors don't need those well-meaning rescue folks and shelter staff to tell them what they can and cannot handle. They've lived fulfilling lives and know their limits, trust me on that.  And if the hesitation with placing pets with seniors comes from a place of concern about their longevity, keep in mind that research supports that seniors live longer, happier, healthier lives when they have a support network, which can (and should) include pets.

I'd much rather see these rescue groups and shelters think more about what makes a good companion for a senior pet owner, looking at that specific senior in front of them applying for a pet, not what their own bias tells them a senior pet owner needs.  Better questionnaires about what specific behaviors/personalities senior pet owners are looking for, plus their experience, the home environment they'll be providing, etc. should all be a bigger part of matching a senior with a pet than just "Oh, this is an older pet owner.  They have to be paired with a senior animal."  I agree that senior pet owners often make lovely home environments for senior pets, but I know a lot of senior humans who want a pet who is more active and engaging than that feline or canine who is nearer the end of its life than the beginning or middle, particularly if they are seeking out a new pet after having just lost their most recent companion animal to old age. 

As a behaviorist, you know I'm way more interested in the behavior of animals than what they look like or how old they are per se. I like to help my senior clients find the right pet for their circumstances.  If they live in an apartment in a senior community, for example, then a German Shepherd won't be a good match, even if the senior human has had German Shepherds before.  But you know what, if what they liked about their German Shepherds was their brains, activity level, and watchdog abilities, why not go for a Havanese instead? They are smaller so better suited to apartment life; they are smart and agile, so they'll get you out for walks and trips to the park; they'll bark when people knock on your dog, so you'll feel safe; and best of all? They are incredibly social, increasing your sociability among your peers. Again, I'm just using these two breeds as an example to make my point.  Matching seniors with pets should be about more than their age.  Prior experience and current goals for that pet are huge factors to be considered more seriously!

Another pet peeve I have is the hesitancy to even place cats with seniors.  Again, why?  They are stable home environments where people are around a lot, having ample time to spend enriching those cats' lives. In fact, go ahead and place two cats with a senior so the cats have each other for company as well.  

It's interesting.  I find that breeders are often less reluctant to place a dog with a senior human than the rescues and shelters. Now, before you jump in and say well that's because breeders are in it for the money, let me just stop you right there.  First off, shelters and rescues charge a fee for their placed pets too.  Nothing is free.  Second, breeders have invested a lot of time and money in the dogs they produce so they actually do a lot to research prospective buyers, older, younger, families, whatever, and try to make a match (if they have one!) based on that. I know breeders who won't necessarily place an 8 week old puppy with a senior, but to be fair, they also don't want to place that same 8 week old puppy in a home with toddlers either!  And there are a lot of breeders who are looking to place young adult or middle aged dogs they have that they are no longer breeding or showing.  Wonderful dogs for almost any home environment, but none more so than a senior human experienced with that particular breed.

I feel like I'm going round and round here, so I'll leave you with this final thought. If you are someone working in a shelter or with a rescue group, don't discount those senior pet owners as potential adopters.  A lot of them have the time, money, and experience for a pet.  And I can tell you first hand, they invest in their pets' mental health and well-being too. 

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Older pet owners have a lot to offer the pets in their care, including an investment in quality time.

In Defense of Dogs as Child Substitutes

I was at the tail end of a discussion with a client, a woman my own age, who has an adult son living with his girlfriend. My client was being a bit dismissive about the dog her son and his girlfriend were fostering and hoping to adopt.  Basically, she made a comment about this dog being nothing more than "a child substitute" for her son, an "experiment to see if they can parent together." The part I found most fascinating about this conversation was the fact that this client herself has a little dog she absolutely dotes on.  This dog wears clothing, rides in a stroller, and goes everywhere with her. I wanted to ask her if she could see the irony in her statements about her son and his new dog? You see, from my point of view, her little dog could be viewed as a grandchild substitute!  But really, is any of that wrong anyway? Not at all.

Dogs and humans have been coevolving for over 30,000 years.  Dogs have served many roles during that time, everything from guardian to caretaker to assistant.  And, yes, child substitute.  We care for dogs, just as we care for other family members.  Their health, happiness, and success depends on us.  Most parents of young children would tell you the same applies to their little kids. Whether a person decides to have children or not is a personal decision, just as pet ownership is.  And whether a person gets a dog to serve the purpose or fill the role that a child/grandchild would in that person's life is again a personal choice.  It is not up to us to judge them, make fun of them, or deride them for their choices.

I've known many young couples who adopt a dog together and then go on to have children together too. I've also known couples who just keep adding dogs, never opting for two-legged progeny.  It's none of my business why those couples chose either route.  It's simply my job to help them with those dogs, guiding them to see the most scientifically proven, effective ways to ensure that their dogs lead healthy, happy, productive dog lives.  If your dog is your baby, that's great!  If your dog is your companion, that's great too.  How ever the relationship works for you and your dog is completely legitimate, no judgment from me. 

Now, I know there are people out there rolling their eyes when they see dogs in strollers, wearing sweaters on Fall days, or raincoats when it's raining.  I get that for some people, these dog owner behaviors seem foreign or frivolous.  But here's the thing.  Some dogs get cold on cold days and/or don't like to get wet.  Sure, they are dogs, but they are dogs far removed from those ancestors living in human camps and dealing with the elements as they arose.  You know what?  We are ourselves far removed from that as well.  

So, please don't be quick to judge that dog in a stroller (he has legs, why isn't he walking like a normal dog?!) or that dog in a coat as being an over-indulged, pampered, child substitute.  While it very well may be, it can also simply be a senior dog who can't walk long distances any more and who doesn't thermoregulate as well as he used to. His owner is compassionate and caring and trying to make sure he is comfortable while still making sure he gets out and mentally stimulated in public settings.  And please don't assume that every couple with a dog and no kids is "using" that dog as a starter "kid," waiting to see if they can hack parenthood.  That's just ridiculous.  As any parent will tell you, parenthood is hard whether you had a dog first or not!

Dogs are many things to many people.  I like to think of mine as treasured family members.  Their lives are short and I intend to make sure that they enjoy themselves. 

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Here are Desi and Ozzie wearing their raincoats on a rainy day. Now, you could argue that rough collies have coats that are heavy enough to keep them comfortable in the rain, and while that's true, I'm the one that had to dry them off when they got home and I didn't want to dry off any more dog than I had to.  Wearing those raincoats meant I had less to dry off, plain and simple.  And did the dogs care about the coats? Absolutely not.  They wore their raincoats, went for their walks, and everyone was content. Were my dogs child substitutes? No, I don't think so, but if you do, I'm okay with that!

You Are Not Alone

I met with a new client last week who gave me a big hug at the end of our appointment as she told me, "Thank you for helping us.  I feel so much better knowing we aren't the only family having these problems with our dog." Her comment really struck me as she truly felt like they must be the only ones. When she looked at the other dogs in her neighborhood, all she saw were "perfect" dogs and "happy" owners, she didn't feel like she should be taking her dog outside of her house and subject herself (and her dog) to their scrutiny. The funniest/not really funny part of all of this is the fact that she got my contact information from one of her neighbors.  She didn't think to ask why that neighbor had met with me! If she had, she'd have found out that it took a lot of work to get that neighbor's dog to the point where she could walk with him in public spaces without him barking, twirling, and grabbing her arm when he panicks!  I've actually worked with three dog owners in that same neighborhood, so I know that while those other dogs appear "perfect" and the owners appear "happy," there was a great deal of work that went into getting there. I couldn't, of course, tell my new client these things, but, what I could tell her is this:

You are definitely not alone.  Research published back in late 2023 found that 1/3 of the dogs in the study had behavior problems, as reported by the owners, and this was not at all representative of what was found in the veterinary records for those same dogs.  The bottom line:  there were a lot of dogs with behavior problems (the most common being noise sensitivities and fear and not listening to the owners) and those problems were not being shared with the pets' veterinarians.  Yes, pet owners should report behavior problems to their veterinarians as that's your first step in getting the right help for your pet.  But even more importantly, does your veterinarian show an interest in your pet's behavior, outside of what they see during your veterinary visits?  Do they ask you questions about your pet's behavior?  If they don't, they really should, as there needs to be less stigma associated with reporting behavior problems AND veterinarians need to provide a safe space to discuss those issues in behavior that effect that pet's quality of life and that of their owners.  There IS a strong connection between physical and mental health that needs to be recognized across the board.

A pet's behavior problems, regardless of their severity, should never deter an owner from seeking help and guidance.  For many of my clients, there is (unwarranted) guilt about the problems they are experiencing, leading them to seek answers in less reputable, but nonetheless anonymous, places on the internet.  While the world wide web can be amazingly helpful in many cases, treating behavior problems in pets using the internet is a black hole of misinformation.  There are great places to find reliable information on animal behavior, but those sites seem to be underutilized, with dog owners, in particular, gravitating toward the loudest voices claiming quick fixes and guaranteed results.  This mindset leads to disappointment at best, and to detrimental methodologies being foisted on dogs at worst. I realize it's human nature to seek out a "quick solution," otherwise why would there be all those ads on social media for losing weight, making money from home, and getting in shape without working out?  But quick solutions aren't always the best ones, that is the ones that result in real changes in your pet's behavior and their mindset, without damaging their relationship with you.

Here's the way I look at it:  It doesn't matter if your dog "just jumps on people," "just barks at the window," "just pulls on leash," OR "doesn't come when called," "won't drop things when asked," etc.  Those are all issues in behavior that a qualified professional can help you with!  Start with your veterinarian as they can help guide you to the right professional for the job.  A qualified dog trainer may be recommended, or someone like me, a true, certified animal behaviorist.  Either way, your vet is in the loop on the issues that you are having, and they are guiding you directly, no need to do an internet search and get lost in that black hole of dog behavior.  One of the main reasons I started writing this weekly blog was so pet owners would have a reputable online resource they could use when trying to figure out what to do for their pets.  And if they needed more help beyond the blog, they'd know who to ask.  There are even pet owners following my blog who don't have current issues with their pets and credit ideas they picked up from my blog for helping their pets stay mentally happy and healthy, and I love that!

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

This is my dog friend, Millie. We've worked together since she was a pup, and we are all grateful for those lessons as she is now just under 130 lbs and many issues commonly faced by dog owners (pulling on leash, jumping up, etc.) would be just that much more risky when you are talking about a large breed dog like Miss Mille.  And, yes, she's a Newfoundland!

Too Hot to Handle!

Across the country, soaring temperatures and high humidity are making this a summer to remember, and not in a good way.  These dangerously high temperatures aren't good for anyone, least of all for our pets.  I just wanted to review some things you can do to make sure your pets are comfortable as those thermometers ascend into the triple digits.

Walk your dogs early in the morning and/or late in the evening.  I know this sounds obvious, but the number of people I see out walking their dogs when temperatures are already in the 80's and beyond amazes me. Sidewalk and asphalt temperatures can reach 125 to 140 degrees when the air temperature is 75-85 degrees.  Even grass gets hot!  If the air temperature is 95 degrees, for example, the grass is 10-15 degrees warmer than that!  For those of you walking your reactive dogs at off peak hours and off peak places to avoid running into others, you will definitely be encountering a lot more dog owners out walking at those times too.  Keep that in mind as you decide on what route to take for your training walks. 

Remember, though, that you don't "have to" walk your dog. There are lots of other ways to get your dog exercise.  Everything from tossing a ball down a hallway, to setting up an indoor agility course around your furniture will do. It's also the case that providing your dogs with interactive toys and puzzles will stimulate and exercise their brains enough that they don't need a walk on a really hot day. 

Even dogs who don't like to swim can enjoy a kid's plastic wading pool. Put a couple of inches of cool water in the pool, add in some ice cubes to chase or floating toys, and sit back with a cool drink in the shade to keep an eye on them.  I like to make fun ice cubes and ice licks for my dogs using metal mixing bowls and ice cube trays.  I float cut fruit or veggies (berries, zucchini, carrots, apples) in either the mixing bowl or the ice cube trays and then freeze them. The ice cubes will pop right out into your wading pool, but you may need to run water over your metal mixing bowl sized ice lick to get it to come out! These colorful ice floats make getting into the wading pool that much more fun.

Plus, the quickest way to cool a dog (or yourself) is by getting your feet wet! Soaking your feet cools you off quickly, as does water on your head. For your dogs, wet a cloth and stroke their heads, or pour a small amount of cool (not cold) water on their heads. Some dogs like to lay down in water to cool off, but there are exceptions to the "just let them lay in the cool water" rule.

If your dog has overheated, don't pour cold water on them or immerse them in cold water. Doing so causes blood vessels to constrict which just keeps the warmth inside them. Opt for cool water on their heads, armpits and groin with a cloth, and on their feet if they can't stand up in a pool of cool water. Give them cool or tepid water to drink from a squirt bottle, or in very small amounts in a bowl. Don't let them gulp water and don't give them water that's too cold. You can also feed them frozen treats like pupsicles and doggie ice cream to cool them down. 

Create cooler spaces for your dogs. Use fans, cooling pads, cooling vests, and air-conditioning where available to keep everyone comfortable on hot days.  Close those blinds and limit your exercise and that of your dog to help everyone stay cool. Be mindful that puppies and senior dogs can overheat (and get cold!) faster than younger dogs.  Watch for signs of heat stress.

Panting on a hot day is normal. But if the tongue is lolling all the way out, looks larger and redder than normal and is accompanied by heavy panting and/or labored breathing/inability to catch their breath, your dog is experiencing heat stress. Get them indoors where it is cooler and cool them off slowly as outlined above. If you notice them drooling excessively, having pale gums, stumbling around/ataxic, having seizures, etc., though, take them to the vet immediately.

Move those outdoor water bowls, crates, dog houses, and raised beds to shadier locations through out the day. Any water bowl can get hot, but metal water bowls outside can burn a dog on a hot day.  Water left outside should be located in a shady area, along with those beds, dog houses, etc. If you don't have a shady area to place your dog's things AND they need to be left outside during the heat of the day, invest in an awning to put their necessary  things underneath, or, better yet, leave them indoors in their crates and hire a dog walker to come let them out to relieve themselves, and bring them back indoors to play before going back into their crates until you return home.

I realize a lot of this may seem like common sense to you, but if me saying it again saves one dog's life, then it was well worth repeating.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Here are Ozzie and Desi, 4th of July, 2016.  Desi didn't care for the wading pool, Ozzie, on the other hand, thought the ice cubes were delicious right before he laid down in the cool inch of water.

Musings on Multi-Dog Households

While I've been a "two dog household" for many years, I have, on occasion, been a three and four dog household.  Now, with my daughter and her dog, Westley, home for the summer, we are a three dog household once again.  This is an interesting situation for me from the standpoint of being a behavioral observer by trade; I watch these dogs and I've come to some interesting conclusions that I think are worth sharing, particularly for those of you considering adding a second (or third or fourth!) dog to your own household. 

First and foremost, keep in mind what I've said previously about the happiest dogs being those who live alone with their owners.  Despite dogs being "pack animals," they don't need other dogs to be happy.  In fact, most are happiest just living with their favored person.  No competition!  Beyond that basic concept, though, there are nuances to the relationships among dogs and their people.

Here at my house, Ozzie and Westley had an established relationship pre-Henley.  In fact, Ozzie and Westley have always been close from the time we adopted Westley into our family.  Desi wasn't one to play with Ozzie, even when Ozzie was a puppy and Desi was a young adult dog.  When Westley joined us, he was a 9 month old adolescent and Ozzie adored him.  They would run, wrestle, play tug-of-war, and sleep near each other.  It was so fun to watch Ozzie find a new best friend.  And you know what?  Desi didn't care one bit. It took the pressure off of him; he really didn't want to play beyond an occasional spin with a tug toy, and then he was back to his nap.

When we went to pick up Henley last Spring, we took Ozzie and Westley with us.  They were a bit overwhelmed by Henley as a puppy, but then again, so were we!  He was a whirling dervish of puppy energy.  Ozzie didn't really like that at all. But Westley?  Westley stepped in and started teaching Henley boundaries and played with him as a reward for respecting those boundaries.  So, Westley and Henley became friends.  Then the summer ended and Westley went back to school with my daughter, and Henley had to figure out how to develop a relationship with Ozzie if he was going to have any chance of playing with another dog in our home. Desi was a senior by that point with no interest whatsoever in Henley. Henley was respectful with Desi, licking his face and trying to cuddle with him, but there wasn't going to be any play as part of their interactions.

So, over time, Henley started working on Ozzie. He'd run past him with a toy which often stimulated Ozzie to chase. He'd drop toys in front of Ozzie to see if he could spark interest. His record was four toys dropped one after the other, until finally Ozzie liked one of the offerings.  Henley would let Ozzie chase him, something Ozzie loves to do.  A tentative friendship was born.  Ozzie and Henley play together a couple of times a day now, usually a game of chase and a game of tug-of-war.  And then Westley came back home for the summer and things changed once again.

Now, there is an interesting dynamic going on.  Henley currently has two established relationships, based in play, that he can engage in.  The problem?  Ozzie and Westley still have their friendship which is now based mostly in resting near one another and eating side by side.  It's the way of a senior dog (Ozzie) and a dog on chemotherapy (Westley).  So, what does Henley do to get someone to play with him?  He's smart.  He goes for one of the humans.  The instant he does, the older dogs jump up and let him know the humans are theirs first, at which point Henley runs to get a toy, and Ozzie chases him, or he shoves that toy at Westley and Westley feels obligated to play for a few minutes.  Henley gets what he wants and the older dogs, I'm certain, feel like they were in control of the course of events.  What I find the most interesting is that Henley does solicit play from us humans, but it's always at a time of day when he knows Ozzie and Westley are uninterested in his shenanigans.  He's learned that if he shoves on Westley with a toy or tries to get Ozzie to chase first thing in the morning, there will be consequences he does not enjoy.  Ozzie will indeed snap at him and Westley will growl.  If he persists, Ozzie will remove himself and Westley will step it up and pin Henley, despite Henley outweighing him by 20 lbs!  And Henley respects the older dogs, and has now learned to temper his morning antics and find a human to play with instead.

Which brings me to my final point and observation.  You might ask why don't we step in when Ozzie is growling or when Westley has snapped and pinned Henley and the answer can be summed up like this:  Not my monkey, not my circus.  Stepping in would tell the older dogs that something they'd done was wrong (when it wasn't) and potentially make Henley feel like he could challenge the older dogs willy-nilly when he really shouldn't.  My dogs aren't fighting, no blood is being drawn, and no dog is afraid of any other dog.  In fact, letting them sort out their own issues, saves anyone having hurt feelings.  Research shows that when it comes to inter-dog dynamics, you don't want to step in unless there is a bullying situation occurring, someone is afraid/avoidant, or if issues don't seem to be resolving naturally as outlined above.  If any of those situations are occurring, please do step in, and if you are unsure how to do that safely, just let me know.

Because, as always, you know where to find me. I'll be over here watching my collies learn how to be a three dog household again, at least for the summer.

In case you were wondering, I said "cookie."