A Christmas Kitten!

A client called me first thing Monday morning in a panic.  Her daughter was given a kitten for Christmas!  They've always had dogs, so my client was at a loss as to what to do with a kitten.  Fortunately, her elderly dog has been gentle with the kitten and the kitten seems unfazed by the dog, so they are off to a good start on that front at least!  We ended up doing what I like to call a "Kitten 101 Session" where I shared all of my favorite tips and tricks for raising a kitten to become a well-adjusted, confident cat. Here's what we covered, in case you've added a kitten to your household too:

While adding a new kitten to your family is fun, there are a lot of responsibilities associated with being a good cat owner. Contrary to popular belief among non-cat owners, cats require a lot more than just food, water, and a litter box to grow into healthy, sociable, well-adjusted pets. Cats have behavioral needs that often go unmet by their owners and ultimately lead to behavior problems, jeopardizing the human-animal bond. Many cat owners fail to understand their cat’s behavior or use what they know about dog behavior and try to apply that to the felines in their home. Unfortunately, many cats are abandoned and euthanized every year because of behavior problems that could have been avoided had their owners had a better understanding of normal cat behavior.

1. Socialization. Contrary to popular belief, cats are not solitary creatures. In fact, cats are very sociable creatures deriving great comfort and pleasure from the companionship of their humans, other cats, and even the family dog. Socialization is the key to owning a well-rounded, confident cat. Unlike puppies where socialization is all about play, socialization for kittens is all about learning to tolerate the close proximity of others. In the first four weeks of life, it is critical that kittens have social contact with their mother. It is a well-known fact that kittens that are deprived of this contact with their mother develop a variety of behavioral, emotional, and even physical abnormalities. These kittens are more likely to be hyperactive, antisocial, and fearful of people and other cats. They are more likely to engage in wool sucking, pica (eating non-food items), and aggressive play. They can even be slower to learn simple associations such as the location of the food bowl or litter box.

In order to develop into a normal, friendly, confident cat, a kitten needs regular handling by friendly humans and to be exposed to as many new situations as possible in a non-threatening manner. This all must occur when your kitten is primed to learn about social relationships, between 2-9 weeks of age. By 6-8 weeks of age, your kitten will start responding to visual and olfactory (scent/smell) threats. By 7-8 weeks, they will have good eye-paw coordination. Real social play develops between 6-12 weeks of age, which is why Kitten Kindergarten classes (where available) are open to kittens from 6-14 weeks of age. By 14 weeks of age and onward, these same kittens will be more interested in social fighting and fearful play. For your kitten to be good with other cats, dogs, and humans, they must be exposed to these groups as young kittens. Even if you don’t have a dog, someone you know will have a reliable, friendly dog you can expose your kitten to. If you plan on having more than one cat, consider adopting two kittens at the same time.

2. Litter Box Training. One of the characteristics owners find most appealing about their cats is the fact that cats use a litter box. Many owners, however, don’t understand the origins of this basic instinct and therefore make errors with regard to litter box style, location, number, litter substrate, and cleaning. Cats bury their waste as a means of survival. Cat urine is very concentrated and has a strong odor. This odor attracts predators. In the wild, cats urinate and defecate well away from their sleeping area in order to keep from attracting predators to themselves and their young. Thus, safety is the reason cats don’t eliminate where they eat, sleep, play, or raise their young.

Don’t make the mistake of going for the fancy, self-cleaning litter boxes made popular on television and in magazines. These boxes can be very daunting to a cat and cause them to use them less than faithfully. In addition, these boxes require less maintenance by you, which means you are not monitoring your cat’s litter habits as often as you should. So, a basic box is really all you need. When deciding on the size and depth of the box to choose, keep in mind your cat’s age, size, and health. Tiny kittens have a hard time climbing into the jumbo boxes with high sides that are designed for multi-cat households where several adult cats are using the box. The litter box needs to be large enough to move around in comfortably and guard against bottoms hanging over the edge leading to urine and feces outside the box. Your cat needs enough room to eliminate in a couple areas and still have a clean spot to stand on. As a general rule, the length of the box should be double the length of your adult cat and the width should be approximately the same as their length. You may have to make adjustments as your cat gets older and their elimination style becomes more evident. For example, if you discover that your cat is spraying urine over the sides of the box, it may be time to substitute a higher-walled plastic storage container for your standard litter box. Do NOT make the mistake of buying a covered litter box. While these boxes do contain the smell, a plus for many humans, the fact that they do so will make the box less appealing to your feline companions. Covered boxes get less air circulating in them, so they are smellier overall than uncovered boxes. Covered boxes are also rather daunting to cats that may feel very uncomfortable entering a dark hole to eliminate. Many covered boxes are too shallow causing the cat to have to duck to avoid touching their heads to the ceiling. If you have a multi-cat household, covered boxes are also a poor choice as one cat may block another from going in to use the box or exiting safely after elimination. Both of these can cause a cat medical and behavioral problems as they strive to find a safer place to eliminate.

Just as there are many types of litter boxes to choose from, there are also many types of litter available on the market. From a cat’s point of view, there are three basic requirements for litter:

If has to be something he won’t mind standing on; it has to be loose enough in texture for him to dig a hole, eliminate, and then cover it up; and most importantly, from a cat’s perspective, it should be odor-free and generate very little dust when scratched. The best choice that meets these requirements is scoopable litter. These litters are sand-like in texture so they are soft and easy on the feet, they are loose enough to dig in, and because you are sifting through it daily, they efficiently control odor and are virtually dust-free. Some cat owners have expressed concern that scoopable litter may be dangerous to cats if ingested. There are no reported cases of a cat having intestinal damage due to ingestion of scoopable litter. There are, however, numerous cases of cats that don’t use their litter boxes because they don’t like the substrate being provided for their elimination!

So, how much litter should you be using and how many boxes should you have? A good rule of thumb is to spread enough litter in the box to provide a two-inch layer for digging and covering. In multi-cat households, you don’t need more litter in the box, you need more boxes. The general guideline here is one litter box per cat plus one. So, if you have one cat, you need two boxes. Two cats, three boxes, and so on. In addition to daily scooping, your boxes will need to be cleaned routinely. If you are using clay litter or another non-scoopable variety, you will need to thoroughly clean out the box at least once a week. This means disposing of all the litter, cleaning the box out using warm water and a mild dishwashing soap, and letting the box air-dry. This means you will probably want to have back up boxes to use when one set of boxes is drying naturally. If you are using scoopable litter, you will be able to go longer than a week between cleanings. However, you will still need to clean the box out thoroughly as outlined above. While plastic liners make clean up easier for the humans, cats dislike liners. They get their claws caught in them when digging and they cause urine pooling and odor.

The location of the litter boxes is extremely important. It should be in a draft free area, away from sudden or startling noises, not in a traffic pattern, and, most importantly, nowhere near your cat’s food and water bowls. If you absolutely have to keep food and water bowls in the same room as your litter boxes, place them as far apart as possible. Wherever you locate your boxes, make sure to check them and clean them twice a day to ensure that your cat has a clean, odor-free area for eliminating. The most common place chosen for a litter box is the bathroom. This is actually a great spot to pick if you have the room to fit your cat’s box there. It makes cleanup easier and it is convenient for you to check its cleanliness with regularity. Laundry rooms are also popular locations for litter boxes. Keep in mind, however, that laundry rooms are noisy and often too warm to be a good location for a litter box. Your cat must feel that he has privacy and is safe when using the box. Being startled by the spin cycle of your washing machine does not promote feelings of safety and well-being! Two-story homes should have a litter box available on each floor. Even if you own an indoor-outdoor cat, you should still have a litter box indoors just in case your cat chooses to eliminate inside whether because of bad weather or illness.

The easiest way to introduce a new cat or kitten to the litter box is to confine said individual in a small area until he is using the box successfully and is comfortable with his new surroundings. If your kitten isn’t getting the idea, you can place him in the box following a meal and scratch at the litter with your fingers. Do not force him to stay in the litter box, just try to make it inviting. If your cat defecates or urinates outside the box, try to collect it as best you can and place it in the box. The smell of his own waste should attract your cat next time he eliminates. Remember that punishing a cat for not using the box will backfire on you. You will create a situation where your cat is anxious and fearful with you AND with the litter box.

3. The Principles of Learning. Your kitten is learning all the time. You do not have to be consciously working with your cat to have it learn. When most people think of animal training, they think of specific tools such as leashes, collars, and clickers. In truth, however, training any animal simply requires an understanding of the principles of learning, which apply to all species. Once you understand the basic principles, then all you need to do is take into account the species of the animal you are working with, as well as their age, sex, and activity level or drive. Finally, it is up to you to set up situations for your cat which promote learning of the desired responses that you are hoping to repeat.

Many behaviors are most easily taught using a target or targeting stick. I like to train kittens using a chop stick as a targeting stick and begin by teaching them to touch the stick with either their nose or their paw. When they touch the stick, they receive a treat and praise. Once they are readily touching the stick, I move to using the target to guide them into many tasks or tricks such as jumping on a chair or moving in a circle.

4. Handling Your Kitten. It is very important that you be able to handle every part of your cat’s body. You need to be able to examine their ears, eyes, mouth, feet etc. without fear of being scratched or bitten. Routine daily handling of your kittens will result in them growing up to be confident cats that don’t panic when they need to be medicated. If you teach your kitten to accept teeth brushing and nail clipping, you will ultimately have a healthier pet that is easier for everyone to handle. NEVER use your “naked” hands to play with your kittens. If you rough house with a kitten, allowing them to grab onto your arms and hands, kick you with their back feet, and bite, you will not only have a difficult time teaching the handling exercises, but you will have a kitten who grows up to be an aggressive cat. So, while using your ten fingers may seem like a convenient and enticing way to stimulate your kitten or get his attention, doing so gives your cat the message that biting skin is acceptable. If your cat begins to grab or bite at you during the handling exercises, do not pull your hand or arm away. This will cause him to instinctively bite down harder. This is how a cat responds to movement of prey. Instead, just freeze. Make a distracting noise with your free hand such as slapping the table, dropping a book, etc. This will startle your kitten causing him to let go and the noise will not be associated with you. If he still doesn’t let go, try gently pushing your hand or arm closer to your cat. This will cause your cat to release you from his grasp as confusion sets in; prey isn’t supposed to move TOWARD the predator! Once you are safely out of your kitten’s grasp, try immediately redirecting all that playful energy toward an appropriate target such as an interactive toy.

5. Importance of Play & Interactive Toys. Many pet owners mistakenly believe that if they provide the toys, their pets will use them. These same well-meaning owners are always flabbergasted when their pets ignore the toys and instead go for computer cords, houseplants, and toilet paper rolls. In order for any toy to effectively grab your pet’s attention, you’ve got to get in there and show them how to use it. It goes without saying that it is important to play with your pets everyday. You don’t need to devote an hour everyday to play time, but you do need to devote some time each day to play. It’s good for you and good for your pets. If you begin thinking like a cat, you will see that playtime is much more than just fun and games. Play can be used to teach your kitten desirable behaviors and help you to raise a confident, sociable, well-behaved cat. In fact, initiating play with your adult cat can help with weight control, ease stress or depression, and even correct behavior problems.

Cats engage in two forms of play, social play and object play. As the name implies, social play involves another cat, pet, or you. Through social play with littermates, your kitten develops motor coordination and learns about bonding with other individuals. Kittens will even take turns playing the aggressor as they learn more about their own strengths and weaknesses and the abilities of others. Kittens engage in the most social play before 12 weeks of age. At this point, a sense of territory begins to develop. After 12 weeks of age, social play sessions become shorter and may even end with a bit of real aggression. Object play becomes the main focus as kittens mature and is also a way of strengthening a kitten’s motor coordination, as well as teaching him about his environment. Kittens are attracted to moving objects and will chase and stalk them. Play is an important part of kitten development, and proper play and exercise are to be encouraged.

Kittens use multiple objects as prey items when they play and their play consists of stalking, pouncing, jumping, biting, and clawing. Small objects that can easily be manipulated with their paws and grasped in their mouths are preferred. However, you should avoid objects that are small enough to pose a choking risk as the barbs on a cat’s tongue do not promote movement of swallowed objects back up readily. In addition, string, thread, tinsel etc. is to be avoided at all costs as swallowing such items can be deadly.

Again, avoid playing with your hands when you interact with your kittens. While a moving hand may seem like an easy toy for your kitten, teaching your kitten it is OK to behave aggressively toward to you is not a good idea. Any attempts by you to then correct your kitten could just make the situation worse, repelling them from you. While a kitten may not be able to do serious damage to a human’s hands or other body parts, adult cats certainly can. Fishing pole lure type toys and those long wands with prey type toys attached on the end are the best to use to encourage play without direct contact to your body. Young kittens can often be encouraged as well to chase and fetch small fleece toys as they bat them across the floor.

It is also nice for your kitten to have toys that promote independent play. Peek and play puzzle boxes, turbo tracks, tunnels, firefly jars, etc. are all toys that can provide hours of enjoyment without direct human involvement. Toys should be rotated to keep your kitten’s interest and make them want to explore. It is worthwhile to note that you should never underestimate the value of cardboard boxes, toilet paper tubes, paper towel tubes, and empty paper bags for entertaining and providing mental stimulation for your kitten.

6. Importance of Perches & Scratching Posts. Confining your kitten to the indoor environment does not have to be a life sentence of boredom. Cats that live strictly indoors are not only healthier and free from disease and parasites, they are safe from dangers in their environment such as cars, toxins, dogs, and wild animals that could do them harm. However, keeping your feline strictly indoors does mean that you must provide an adequate environment for their physical and social development.

Cats need a lot of vertical space to explore. This means not only places to climb onto but ways to move across their environment, above the floor. Cats will use book shelves, cupboards, counters, backs of furniture, window sills, and the tops of doors to move around. Cats also desire cubbies and hiding places and will sneak under beds, into closets and drawers, and inside of cabinets. From these hidden areas your cat will “hunt” for toys and food, so you can make the game more rewarding by hiding dry food in lots of areas around your house.

You can purchase commercially made cat perches for your feline friends. The best perches incorporate sisal fiber for scratching and climbing, in addition to walk ways and hiding areas. You should have numerous scratching posts and pads in your home for your cat. Scratching surfaces should vary to meet your cat’s every mood. There are scratching pads that lay on the ground and are made of rough cardboard; these are nice to put along carpet edges to deter your cat from scratching and digging at carpet fibers. Upright scratching posts covered in sisal, wool, or rough fabric are better than those covered in tightly woven carpet. These upright posts should be placed in front of curtains and furniture where your cat likes to scratch. Once they’ve become attracted to their posts and are using them regularly, you can move them to locations that are more convenient for you.

It is important to remember that scratching is a perfectly normal feline behavior. Cats with access to the outdoors may even restrict their scratching to the trees and fences in their environment. However, indoor/outdoor cats, and those who live strictly indoors, will need to have outlets for their behavior. While scratching does serve to shorten and condition the claws, the primary reasons that cats scratch are to mark their territory and to stretch. This is why it is critical for your cat’s scratching posts to be tall enough for them to scratch while standing on their hind legs with forelegs extended. The posts also must be sturdy enough that they won’t topple over when leaned on and scratched. Toys and treats can be used to attract your cat to a new post and help them to return there on their own.

At the end of our conversation, my client said she still felt a bit overwhelmed as a first time "cat mom," but at least she now had the tools she needed to get her daughter and the new kitten off to a great start. I'm excited to hear about their progress over the next few months!

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Sleepy kittens are definitely as cute as sleepy puppies!