What To Do When You Can't Keep A Dog

I truly believe that one of the most heartbreaking decisions a dog owner can ever make is to give up a dog. Whether they are giving the dog up for financial reasons, a change in their living circumstances, or because the dog has a serious behavior problem, the end result is the same: They feel anxiety, guilt, shame, frustration, remorse, or all of the above regarding their decision. Most of the dog owners I speak with who are in this position feel trapped by the reality of their situation and judged harshly by their friends and family. I feel a great deal of sympathy for these dog owners because I know arriving at this decision didn't come easily AND if they thought there was anything else that could be done, they would have done it.  People who reach out to me when they are giving up a dog aren't looking for recriminations from me; most aren't even looking for sympathy.  What they are looking for is validation that this is the right path to take and they are most often looking for suggestions as to how to place their dog effectively. 

It's not uncommon for a dog owner to give up a dog because they can no longer afford to care for him or because their circumstances have changed.  In our current economic climate, everything has become more expensive and for some, caring for a dog may be a luxury they can't afford.  Some families have to downsize, moving into a housing situation where dogs aren't allowed.  I have a lot of older clients who have to give up their dogs when they move into assisted living or skilled nursing environments that don't allow pets, or don't allow dogs over a certain size. My first question is always, "Is there someone in your family or circle of friends who can take your dog?" My follow up to this if the dog came from a breeder is, "Have you contacted your breeder about taking your dog back?"  The reputable breeders I know will take their dogs back at any time for any reason.  They don't want their dogs to end up in shelters or rescues, preferring to care for the dogs themselves, or place them elsewhere.  For people who acquired their purebred dogs from a pet store, mass puppy website, puppy mill, or puppy broker, returning a dog to the breeder isn't a viable option. At that point, they would need to look at breed rescue groups.  And for people with shelter dogs or dogs they adopted from rescue organizations, they do need to reach out to those places first.  Some rescues want their dogs back if it isn't working out, much like reputable breeders. For many dog owners, however, their calls and emails aren't answered, or if they are, they are turned away and told that the shelter, rescue group, etc. has too many dogs and they can't take on another at this time.  It's also unfortunate that dog owners faced with this predicament will be made to feel like complete jerks for even considering giving up their dog.  Telling a dog owner in this situation that they shouldn't have gotten a dog in the first place isn't helpful.  At all.

As you might imagine, the worst case scenario is when a dog owner needs to place their dog who has issues in aggression.  These dogs are difficult to place regardless of the type of aggression displayed, but the most difficult are those who are aggressive toward people, in particular, those who have bitten someone (or those who have bitten multiple times). These dogs pose issues in liability.  Rescue groups are reluctant to take them because they don't want to assume the liability.  Shelters often tell dog owners with aggressive dogs that surrendering the dog means euthanasia. Trying to place an aggressive dog with friends or family isn't easy either given the inherent liability.  If you can get someone to take your dog, you'll want to draft a letter where you are very transparent about your dog's aggression, outlining each instance of aggression, including every bite and what steps you took.  You'll sign this letter and so will the person taking your dog.  You should get the letter witnessed or notarized as well. Why go through all of this extra work?  Well, unfortunately, the odds are that your dog will bite again and if the bite lands the new owner in court, you'll be in court as well. If you have the letter saying your informed the new owner as to the risk and you signed off on your liability, you will likely be removed from any lawsuit that arises involving the dog.  Sobering, I know. 

At this point, you might be saying to yourself, "Why don't they just call their vet and euthanize the dog themselves if it's that risky?"  Well, the simple answer is that they love their dog, in spite of his aggression.  Frankly, most of the aggressive dogs I meet aren't aggressive all of the time; they are aggressive when triggered and often those triggers aren't completely predictable. It's also unfortunately the case that some veterinarians draw the line at "euthanizing a healthy dog."  The fact that an aggressive dog who bites people isn't mentally healthy or sound seems to escape them.  Luckily, most veterinarians have incredible compassion for dog owners with aggressive dogs and understand that dogs who bite people are a risk to the community at large and have no issue with humane euthanasia. Nonetheless, making the decision to euthanize your own dog is one of the most difficult decisions you will ever have to make, even if you know it's the right one for you AND for your dog.  Aggressive dogs aren't happy dogs. They are profoundly anxious.  Most don't want to bite, but they are unable to stop themselves. Many resist muzzles and other management tools that could keep them in their homes a bit longer, or render them more adoptable, making quality of life an issue for everyone. Sometimes dog owners just need to hear that they aren't bad people for making the decision to euthanize their aggressive dog.  If they call me, I won't tell them that's a bad choice; who am I to judge them? I don't have to live with that dog and I KNOW after 35 years in business, aggressive dogs are difficult to live with and often end up cutting you off from your family and friends because they don't want to deal with your dog. Dogs are important, but you can't cut off all of your human support system.

So, no easy answer here.  Basically, you need to look at your dog's specific aggressive issues and determine what the best course of action might be.  For those whose dogs aren't aggressive, but they still can't keep them, the decision to be made will often depend on the timeline of how quickly you need to place them.  If you can, for example, keep your dog until the rescue group has an opening or finds a home for your dog, that's terrific.  For most dog owners looking to place their dogs, however, time isn't on their side.  Frustrating and sad, but a reality nonetheless. 

It's true that, on occasion, I've been able to help place a dog that a client needed to rehome.  It doesn't happen very often, but when it does, it's quite satisfying to help a dog and their owner find the right situation that works for them both.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Border collies are terrific dogs, but certainly not the best fit for every dog lover.  Many in rescue have significant behavior problems which may be difficult for even an experienced owner to address.  They may look cute, but these are working dogs and I've treated enough frustrated and aggressive border collies to know you have to be well-informed when adopting one.

Helpful Strangers

So many of us were told as children not to talk to strangers.  We were also told to seek out the help of trustworthy adults, even though it was sometimes difficult to determine who was trustworthy and who should be avoided.  Nonetheless, we made it through childhood and some of us did indeed solicit the help of strangers.  The fact of the matter is that when it comes to dog ownership, strangers can be very helpful in your training journey. Let me explain.

Let's say you've got a new puppy that you need to socialize.  You'll certainly want to enlist the help of your friends and family in socializing your newest family member, but the bottom line is that your puppy needs to meet lots of different people.  They need to meet crying babies, screaming toddlers, teens on scooters and skateboards, seniors using walkers or wheelchairs, and people whose skin tone isn't the same as yours. I've had more than one client sheepishly tell me that they think their dog is racist.  Dogs aren't racist.  What happens is that if a dog isn't socialized to lots of different people, including people with skin that's lighter or darker than your own, then they will be wary when they first encounter them.  The same is true if you don't socialize your dog with kids; they'll be cautious or even nervous around children when they meet them. So, taking that puppy to puppy classes and puppy socials, bringing them with you to run errands, and even just sitting with them on your lap or in a stroller at a public park means they'll be exposed to a lot of new people (strangers) and understand that new people can be wonderful too.  And it's certainly not hard to get strangers to pet and engage a puppy, now is it?

So, what if you have an adult dog who is wary, fearful, or just lacking in good social skills?  You can still do all of the above, you're just going to do it more slowly, at a pace that feels comfortable for you particular dog. For example, if they are terrified of scooters and skateboards, then you most certainly aren't going to take them to sit outside of a skate park!  Instead, you might sit with them in your car or on a bench at a distance and watch kids on scooters, bikes, and skateboards as they leave school.  Or maybe you have to start even further back than that and just observe those things happening in your neighborhood or the sidewalk in front of your house from the safety of being indoors. Regardless, as your dog gains confidence, you will once again want to get out there in public spaces and solicit the help of strangers.  Ask that teen on the scooter if they'd like to pet your dog.  If they do, great!  Now your dog sees that scooters aren't always moving and that the people riding on them are just friends they haven't met yet.

I'm most certainly NOT advocating for taking a dog who is aggressive out in public and subjecting strangers to encounters with your dog that may not be safe.  If you have an aggressive dog, you'll still need to do some training in public spaces, but you'll want to discourage strangers from coming too close or directly engaging your dog.  You'll need to be proactive in what you say (firmly but kindly explain that your dog doesn't like new people, for example) and if you live in an area where close encounters can't be avoided, go ahead and muzzle train your dog. This will not only protect you from liability should someone get too close to your dog for their comfort, it also means that people can see that your dog is muzzled and will likely give you the space you need to keep your dog safe.  Hey, you know what?  Those strangers are still helping you train your dog. They're helping you by keeping their distance!

If you are encouraging strangers to interact with your dog, please make sure your dog is ready to meet that challenge. If they are still jumping up in excited greeting, stand on their leash. If they still snap at treats, show people how to toss them a treat instead.  Actively show people where your dog likes to be petted.  Most importantly, talk to that stranger so your dog not only sees that new people are interesting, he comes to understand that when you stop to talk to someone, they must remain calmly at your side or at your feet.  This clearly takes practice and I've found that most strangers in public parks, for example, are more than happy to help.  Obviously, you can't just walk up to people's children without getting labeled as a weirdo, so ask parents if their kids would like to meet your dog, or simply wait for the kids to approach and remind them to check with their parents first.  This helps kids see who those helpful adults are too.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

When Henley was a puppy, I took him everywhere with me that I could. I would carry him in my arms or in a bag, letting his head poke out for people to see him and ask to pet him.  Anyone who wanted to hold him could, so he got passed around, hugged, squeezed, and loved on.  This established for him that strangers were good, whether those strangers were young or old, quiet or loud, and skin color made no difference.  Henley loves everyone clearly believing that anyone he sees is a friend to be greeted with a happy tail wag.

Technology Can Be Your Friend Too!

It seems like every time I start reading the newspaper, or looking at my online news feed, there is a story about AI.  As someone who grew up watching the Terminator movies, I have to admit that technology like artificial intelligence kind of stresses me out.  I have, however, embraced other forms of technology, though at times I have to admit it's been a bit begrudgingly.  Take music, for example.  I grew up in the age of vinyl and 8-track tapes, so streaming music took some getting used to!  I do love curating my own playlists as it reminds me of the old mix tapes we used to create in high school.  I also believe, however, that streaming music has changed the way most people think about music, and it surely has changed the music business for the artists who create it. Video may have killed the radio star, but streaming music has made it so very few artists have their music fully "digested" as they intended. No longer do people buy albums, beginning with the first track and listening all the way through to the last track; now they can download that one song, or a few songs, they like, even if the artist believed those songs were part of a bigger picture for them and the message they were conveying.  I'm sure at this point you are trying to figure out what this has to do with your pets and where in the world am I going with this blog post?! Glad you stuck it out!

As many of you know, my daughter got a new collie puppy this Spring and she's raising Zelly to be her next emotional support dog.  As such, Zelly is learning to go to work with her and beginning to master the tasks required of an office dog in a busy law practice.  This hasn't been easy for Zelly as she is very attached to my daughter, as any good ESA should be.  She does, however, need to be able to leave Zelly in her office when she meets with a client in the conference room, goes to court, or uses the bathroom!  Up until this week, Zelly has had a rough time being left alone in the office in her crate.  She whines and fusses which could potentially be disruptive to others in the office.  This has been frustrating for my daughter as Zelly IS crate trained, happily napping in her crate at home and at my house, whenever we leave.  She doesn't fuss, she just settles in and naps until someone returns and lets her out. Zelly, like many adolescent dogs, doesn't have separation anxiety, but she does experience some separation distress in very specific circumstances:  The office. I've had numerous conversations with my daughter to discuss strategies to help Zelly move past her distress so she can really thrive and enjoy her time in the office, and that's when we stumbled upon a handful of amazingly helpful playlists on Spotify, the music streaming platform my daughter and I both use. 

Previously we had used a white noise machine for Westley when my daughter went to class, but Zelly didn't really like the white noise machine, and actually ended up showing her displeasure with it by chewing through the cord to turn it off on her own! Zelly does, however, love music, just as my dogs do.  I have music on a lot in my office and at home, so it's associated with positive things for all of the dogs. My daughter and I joked about making a playlist for Zelly to listen to when she's out of the office and that's when the light bulb went off and my daughter found a handful of playlists on Spotify, specifically for dogs with separation anxiety, separation distress, or just to soothe them when they are resting.  If you have Spotify yourself, here are the playlists we've been using for Zelly:

https://open.spotify.com/playlist/6e5lSMmhr1W8Qg5X3qssLQ?si=75518f6459884e71

https://open.spotify.com/playlist/3300BQPneawOkHUGOOUhMK?si=2e1fc3ce1bdd452e

https://open.spotify.com/playlist/1qylvGhYNsqnjWmVJahOpN?si=7284928c84104788

I realize that not everyone has Spotify. I'm sure you can find similar curated playlists on other streaming platforms, and if you don't stream your music, you can certainly create a playlist of your own to soothe your dog.  Now, I'm not suggesting that music alone will cure separation distress.  On the contrary, it's just one piece of the puzzle, helping you to design and create a safe environment for your dog to relax in your absence. You'll also want to make sure the space they are in is free of hazards, has brain challenges, puzzles, or other activities to fight boredom, and a camera to observe how they are doing.  I believe a camera is critical whether you are using a nanny cam, your computer, one of those fancy treat dispensing machines, or a security camera.  I like being able to observe home alone dogs and interact with them, if need be.  For Zelly, we can talk to her through the camera in my daughter's office.  If she's fussing we can ask her to quiet and remind her to find her bone, chew, or puzzle.  She redirects well at this point, so that's good.  And since adding in the music, we've had to talk to her through the camera very infrequently.  She is clearly listening to the music and it distracts her from any sounds in the office around her. She appears less anxious that she is missing out on something, so progress is being made.

All of this creates a sort of ritual around being left alone.  It reminds me of when my kids were little and we had a set of things we always did before they went to sleep at night.  Creating these sleep rituals meant that their brains had expectations for how to wind down, making it easier to get them to actually wind down, even when we weren't home. It's the same for your dogs.  If you begin creating predictable routines when they are puppies, particularly routines and rituals around sleep, they become better about taking naps and about being alone.  Puppies have to be taught that being alone is okay; you can't just put them in a crate and assume that they'll be fine. Puppies are used to being with their siblings and mother, so when they move in with you, it's a bit of a shock!  And if you just crate them alone and walk away, no sleep rituals, no preparation, no establishing a routine so that they know that they are safe, you will risk have a distressed puppy on your hands.

Zelly is going to be a great office dog, it's just going to take some time. For now, my daughter will continue to work with her, building her confidence and ability to be left alone in that environment for a few minutes at a time, building up to a few hours eventually.  When my daughter is in her office, or has clients in her office, Zelly is supportive and kind, wagging her entire body for lovies from one and all.  And if my daughter has a particularly stressful day at the office, Zelly is right there, reminding my daughter to step outside for a break, have a snack, and play a little fetch.  She lays at my daughter's feet under her desk, right where Westley used to rest.  I think she's going to make Westley proud.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Here's Zelly at the office and ready to work!

Is There a Class I Should Take?

I love taking classes and learning new things. Even more, I love teaching classes and seminars that help pet owners learn new things. Unfortunately, however, classes aren't the right place to address every issue you might be having with your dog. I was thinking it might be helpful to go over some of the issues that really lend themselves to a classroom environment, and which ones don't. Those issues that can't be safely or easily addressed in a classroom environment will require you seeking out one-on-one assistance. Whether that one-on-one will be with a qualified dog trainer, or whether that will be with a certified animal behaviorist like myself will depend on the specifics of the problem(s) you are having. So, let's go over some issues that cross my desk every day so I can show you which ones I point toward classes, which ones I direct to dog trainers I know and trust, and which ones I highly advise working with me to find long term solutions and relief.

Let's address the easy stuff first. If you just picked up a puppy, yes, you should take puppy classes. Even I took Henley to puppy classes when he was a baby! So, regardless of your own dog experience, puppy classes are a valuable tool for exposing your puppy to other puppies their own age, teaching them to be able to work in a novel environment and with lots of distractions, and of course, work on the basics under the watchful eye of a qualified professional trainer. I think smaller classes are better and I love mixed classes where puppies meet other puppies, some big, some small, some barky, some quiet, some playful, and some not so much. If you just got an older puppy, puppy socialization classes won't be appropriate per se, but an older puppies class or adolescent dogs class surely will be. In these classes, the pace is faster with a larger focus on leash work and distractions, the primary issues facing dog owners with adolescent dogs!

If you've just adopted a young adult dog, classes may still be a good idea IF your new dog isn't experiencing fear, reactivity, or aggression. If your new dog shows signs of being fearful or aggressive on leash during walks, for example, then a classroom setting where they will be in close proximity to other dogs on leash will only be anxiety-provoking, not productive, and can potentially make the issues you are having even worse. Instead, seek help from a qualified dog trainer to determine if your dog's issues are rooted in lack of positive on-leash experiences, or if their issues run deeper, related to poor, inadequate, or inappropriate socialization, or related to a genetic predisposition for the behavior. If it's about lack of good experiences, then that dog trainer is going to be very helpful, supporting you and your dog as you find the right equipment and tools to help your dog gain confidence. If instead those issues are about your dog's previous environment being impoverished, or about the role genetics plays in behavior (when aggressive dogs breed, they perpetuate aggression in future generations), then we will need to work together. Aggression is not a curable problem, but a question of good management. Some dogs have obvious triggers that we can learn to control while others, unfortunately, do not.

If you've adopted an adult dog without issues in fear, reactivity, or aggression, they, too, can benefit from classes, as classes are a terrific way to develop a bond and rapport with a new dog.  My first choice would be that you choose a class where the focus is on tricks because tricks training is fun!  For most adult dogs any class that's fun and fast paced is a win.  You could try something new together like rally, or even agility, depending on the breed, temperament, and physical abilities of your new adult dog. If that new dog lacks basic obedience skills, then by all means sign up for a refresher course in the basics, just make sure you sign up for a class for adult dogs, and not one of those obedience classes for puppies!

Dog class offerings have really expanded in recent years. Even ten or fifteen years ago, classes offered to dog owners were primarily those in obedience, or skills classes for dog sports.  Now when you look at classes offered in your area you are likely to find ones devoted to tricks training, cooperative care, leash walking in public spaces, scent work, and prep classes for therapy dogs, to name a few. While there is nothing wrong with classes focused on obedience, I love when my dog trainer friends expand their curriculum to fun and enriching challenge classes for dog owners.

I recently finished up a three session therapy dog prep class and it was so much fun!  Every dog in the class was unique and well-suited to the job and I was happy to point them and their owners to the right therapy environment where they can do their best work. 

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Here I am teaching the recent therapy dogs prep class.  That's my buddy, Leo, listening attentively to the descriptions of the different types of visits he might do.  He's a natural. I mean, honestly, who wouldn't want to hug a 160 lb Bullmastiff? Photo courtesy of his mom, Kristin Garvin.

New Beginnings

I've had a handful of clients over the last two weeks who are approaching the end of summer with a bit of excitement, combined with a heaping helping of apprehension, as their searches for puppies are coming to fruition. I work with a lot of puppy owners, so this combo isn't anything new, really. What makes it worth blogging about is the fact that all of these families already have resident dogs who are well into their retirement years, so to speak; that is, dogs who are celebrating double digit birthdays. While I've blogged about adding a puppy to an established dog home before, as well as on the topic of when it's a good time (if ever!) to add in a second (or third) dog, I haven't specifically looked at how the addition of a puppy or adolescent dog to your home affects your senior dog.  So, let's tackle that topic this week, just in case you find yourself in this position as well.

Oftentimes for multi-dog families, owners find themselves in the position of adding a new dog into the mix as they are coming to terms with the twilight years of their senior dog's life.  And if they've had a couple of seniors, raised together since puppyhood, losing one of the dogs isn't just hard on the human family members, it can also be devastating for the surviving senior dog.  Dogs can absolutely experience depression over the loss of a companion, whether that's a dog or a cat. Many were already slowing down and now don't really want to do anything at all except eat and sleep.  To see your senior dog no longer enjoying walks, play time, or cuddle time as a result of the loss of one of your other pets is heartbreaking; you're already devastated about losing a family member and now you're worried about your remaining dog as well! 

While you never want to add another dog, let alone puppy, just because you are worried about being dog-less, or worried about your remaining dog fading away due to a broken heart, it is something that will cross your mind.  There is never a right time or wrong time following a pet's death to add a new pet, you just want to do so with a clear picture of what that entails.  Raising a puppy is hard work even under the best of conditions.  Adolescents aren't a walk in the park either, pun intended.  All dogs require boundaries, consistent consequences, routine, and structure. Puppies and adolescent dogs, even more so in order to get off on the right foot.  If you haven't had a puppy or adolescent dog in a while, you might be amazed at how much work is involved!  Definitely a lot more work than what is involved with maintaining a senior dog for sure.  Still, there are so many reasons you should consider doing it anyway.

Adding a puppy or adolescent dog will often perk up a senior dog.  Even those seniors who seem a bit begrudging about the new addition will still find some joy in bossing the new kid around.  Some will actually enjoy showing them the ropes.  There will even be some seniors who go all in, playing with the puppy, guiding them on walks, and allowing cuddles and sharing toys.  Desi was that kind of a senior dog.  He raised Ozzie, helped raise Westley, and was a benign presence in Henley's early puppyhood.  Desi wasn't much for running around by the time Henley came along, but he enjoyed watching Henley's antics and he definitely hopped in line for the extra treats.  When Henley would lay near Desi, he seemed quite content. Ozzie is a bit more of a curmudgeon when it comes to raising puppies.  Zelly likes to bug him which I find really funny, Ozzie much less so. She'll lick his face or cut him off going out the door, things that really get under his skin.  He'll "grr" in correction and she just blows him off.  If she's really bugging him, Henley will step in and redirect her.  Fascinating to watch and I definitely think Zelly's presence a couple of days a week is keeping Ozzie's brain active and engaged. And he, too, likes the extra training sessions and treats.

Adding a puppy or adolescent dog means your senior dog, if they are willing, can help you raise them.  They already know the rules, the boundaries, and the consequences.  They can help you reinforce those with your puppy.  Ozzie is all about the rules.  When Henley stepped out of line as a puppy, he was right there to say, "Nope. That's now how you do it." Desi, rest his soul, was way more lenient.  He was the pushover and Ozzie was the enforcer. They made a good team.

Adding a puppy or adolescent dog means YOU, the human, will have a dog you can walk further, take on longer hikes, etc. when your senior dog's walks have become slower, shorter, and only on flat surfaces. You're still going to walk your senior dog though.  I always suggest two walks a day for both the younger dog and the older dog, it's just that the younger dog gets one walk that's longer and by themselves which is good for training and bonding.  Then, they get a second walk that is shorter and more about exploring and sniffing in the company of your senior dog.  And then there is a third walk for you that is just for your senior dog to meander and show you why slowing down is good for the soul. So, yes, this means you need enough time in your day for three walks.  You'll get your step count in for sure!

Remember, you'll want to give your senior dog breaks away from the new puppy or adolescent dog.  This will happen when your puppy is taking those required naps in their crate, when your puppy is on their solo training walk, and when your puppy is off at class.  But, you will need to build in other quiet time for your senior dog as well and that's most easily and efficiently done with an x-pen.  An x-pen set up in your common space means you have a place to put the puppy or your senior dog, rotating whose in the pen and whose got privileges outside of it. This allows your new pup and your senior dog to safely share space without your senior dog becoming overwhelmed and it reinforces the boundaries you are trying to establish.

Finally, adding that puppy or adolescent dog means you'll have company and support when your senior dog does cross the rainbow bridge. And if your senior dog has helped you raise that younger one, it means that dog will have some skills when it comes time to get your next dog.  See how that works?  A nice, big circle of canine companions in your life sharing their knowledge.  Paradise on earth.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

One of my favorite pictures as it really captures what raising Henley looked like.  Desi is there, but he's clearly asleep, close enough to Ozzie to know if he'll need to get up and get out of the way of a zooming puppy. Henley is right there between Ozzie and Westley.  Westley did most of the heavy lifting, so to speak, when it came to raising Henley.  Westley knew all about boundaries and rules and was less likely to get frustrated with puppy antics than Ozzie.  But they all did really well together and I think that Henley helped keep Desi entertained and agile. And now, Henley cares for Zelly as Westley did for him. Full circle indeed.

The Whole Body Approach to Behavior

I'm a proud University of California, Davis grad, two times over. I have kept in touch with a handful of my classmates, one of whom stayed in Davis and is working for the university as a small animal dietitian and researcher.  She was teasing me about a few of my recent blog posts that looked at what we feed our pets, whether it's their actual diet, or the treats and goodies we share with them. She joked that I had "veered into her lane," by taking a deeper look at food and our pets. I reminded her that my published research on cheetahs actually looked at how and what we fed those captive animals affected their health and well being, and most importantly, their ability to reproduce. If anything, I'm now veering back into that lane and wanting everyone to focus on how they nourish the bodies of their own animals.

When I was a kid, my mom was one of those body-conscious 70's women.  Food was fuel and she only allowed "healthy choices" in our house. This meant no cookies, candy, chips, ice cream, or sugar-laden breakfast cereals.  Of course, we also had diet soda laced with saccharine and other artificial sweeteners, but that's another story. Anyway, I never agreed with her approach, feeling that my grandmother's approach was a bit more even-keeled.  She believed that there weren't any "bad foods," just food.  Some, you should eat in moderation, some were treats for special occasions, and all were best enjoyed with friends and family.  So, by the time I had my kids, I allowed all foods in the house, and my kids learned to regulate themselves.  If they wanted cookies, we baked together.  If they wanted a sugary breakfast cereal, that was fine, as long as they also had fruit and protein (usually in the form of yogurt) along with it. It was all about balance.  My kids seem to be continuing with this mindset as they navigate adulthood and stock their own pantries and refrigerators. So, why am I telling you all this?

Just as it was with the cheetahs I studied, the food you put into your body affects your behavior and your well being, and the same goes for your pets.  Pregnant female dogs should be fed a diet rich in proteins and fats, with essential minerals like phosphorus and calcium, as doing so will result in a mother who is prepared to give birth and nurse her puppies.  That diet will also help her body to nurture those puppies in utero.  Healthy moms produce healthy puppies.  Happy moms produce happy puppies. Once those puppies start on solid foods, your focus is on growth and development, not just of their bodies, but of their brains.  This is why puppy food is rich in DHA, a type of omega-3 fatty acid that is vital to brain development.  Puppies raised by moms with a sound temperament and healthy body, are much more likely to be puppies who are also physically healthy and mentally sound. And, of course, if you add in an early puppyhood program like Puppy Culture to your puppy raising activities, you are again increasing the odds that those puppies are going to be well-rounded, well-socialized, and adept at tackling obstacles before they go to their new homes.  But it all started with the diet that you fed their mom!  Puppies born to mothers who didn't get enough food, didn't get the right food, and weren't nurtured themselves, produce stress hormones during pregnancy that directly affect the litter in utero, resulting in brain changes that they will carry with them all their lives. 

So, when you get a puppy, find out how its mother was fed and cared for.  Meet her too. Look at what the puppy has been fed and how its been raised before becoming ready to move on to a new life with you.  Feed your puppy puppy food!  Feeding them adult dog food regularly will result in puppies who don't receive all of the crucial nutrients they need to develop properly, resulting in puppies whose brains aren't being nurtured.  Why is this important? If your puppy's brain isn't get the fuel it needs to grow, then your puppy is going to be ripe for anxiety and behavior problems. No, I'm not saying that every behavior problem is related to a poor or inappropriate diet; clearly, genetics and environment also affect behavior. What I am saying is that diet plays an important role and we need to take it just as seriously. 

Anyway, my dietitian friend and I rounded out our conversation by sharing treat recipes with each other that our dogs love, lol.  And if you'd like to see my published research on cheetahs, just for fun, you can find it here: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/016815919090036D

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Zelly loves to share cooked broccoli and that's awesome!  Broccoli is rich in vitamins and antioxidants, as well as being a good source of fiber. She's an adventurous eater and I love her all the more for it. Plus, the fact that she's eating broccoli means my daughter is eating broccoli, and that  makes this mom very happy and proud!

Dogs & Cats Are Animals After All!

Remember a couple of weeks ago when I posted a blog about sharing your food with your dog? I mentioned giving my own dogs fruits and vegetables.  Anyway, someone reached out after they'd read that blog post and asked why in the world would I feed my dogs fruit and veggies when dogs are carnivores and should just be fed protein! At first, I thought this person was joking, but then I realized they were serious when they shared with me what they feed their own dog (organ meats like beef heart, kidneys, and liver, raw eggs, chicken with the bones in it, and ground beef). Wow! That's a protein-rich diet for sure.  But here's the thing. Dogs aren't carnivores, they are omnivores, meaning their optimal diet include plant and animal sources. While wolves are carnivores, dogs have been subjected to the process of domestication over thousands of years, resulting in the animal we share our homes with today, an animal who has the ability to digest carbohydrates and grains. I should also point out that while wolves may be carnivores, they are opportunists who will eat plants to supplement their diet too.  

It's also important to point out that cats actually ARE carnivores; more specifically, they are obligate carnivores meaning they must eat meat because they lack the ability to synthesize certain nutrients from plants.  Taurine, for example, is an essential amino acid and one which cats cannot synthesize on their own.  They have to get it through their diet which must be rich in animal-based proteins. Years ago, I had a new kitten client who was herself a vegetarian.  She had designed a diet for her kitten, but noticed that he wasn't thriving.  She'd taken him to see the vet and he had told her that she was quite literally starving her kitten to death.  She didn't believe him and reached out to me for behavioral changes she could make to help him thrive.  I reiterated what her vet had told her; no amount of behavioral modification was going to help this kitten.  He needed a diet rich in animal-based proteins if he was going to survive.  I told her that while I understood her personal decision to not eat meat, she couldn't restrict her cat from doing so. I also told her that she didn't need to create a raw meat diet for her cat (something she found personally repugnant), she could simply feed him commercially prepared kitten food that had all of the essential nutrients in it already, perfectly formulated to help his brain and body thrive and survive.  This kitten's life was literally saved with a bag of Purina Kitten Chow!

Here's the thing:  Just because you may not be able to eat grains due to a gluten sensitivity, wheat allergy, or celiac disease, for example, that doesn't mean your dog doesn't benefit from those same grains.  Yes, there are some dogs who are allergic to certain grains, but it isn't true that ALL dogs are allergic to grains.  In fact, grain-free diets have been linked to serious health issues such as dilated cardiomyopathy (a heart condition) in some breeds of dogs. So, unless your veterinarian has diagnosed your dog with a specific grain allergy or sensitivity, including healthy grains in your dog's food provides them with a balanced and nutritious diet. I know that all of the major pet food manufacturers have gotten onto the "grain-free" bandwagon, but that doesn't mean that's a healthy choice for all dogs.  Those diets are there for the dogs who do have grain sensitivities first and foremost, but the bottom line is that many of those diets are marketed and sold to pet owners who think that grains are bad for them so therefore they must be bad for their dogs too. And all of this circles back to that fallacy that dogs are carnivores.

I have a lot of clients who feed their dogs homemade diets. I also have quite a few clients who tell me that they feel guilty because they don't make their pets' food!  Truly there is no right or wrong way to feed your dogs.  If you are making them a homemade diet focused on the appropriate ratio of vitamins, minerals, and nutrients, including grains, vegetables and fruits, as well as protein, then that's great.  For me, that seems like a lot of extra work when there are commercial diets out there that have done all of that work for you, and you shouldn't be made to feel guilty for choosing one of those for your dog. And if you are like me, you're feeding your dog a commercial dog food and adding a few things to it to spice it up, so to speak.  Why?  Because we like to share what we eat with our dogs and they appreciate that we do.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Here's Ozzie getting the last bits of the yummy chicken breast and rice

 that I had added to his kibble and pumpkin!