The Reality of Rescues

I get several calls a week from people who have "rescue dogs" that need help, which, of course, I am happy to do.  However, I like to make sure that we are all on the same page with regard to these dogs and understanding where the behavior problems they are seeing come from.  Let me explain.

Just because a dog comes through the shelter or a rescue group does not necessarily mean that said dog was subjected to physical abuse, emotional abuse, or both.  It doesn't even necessarily mean that they were neglected.  What it means is that they were fortunate enough to end up in a shelter or rescue group who invested in their future.  Assuming that dogs that come through rescue or from a shelter have been abused in some way actually does a disservice to those dogs!  The biggest misconception I hear is that a particular dog "must have been abused because he is behaving aggressively."  The reality, however, is that aggression isn't the typical response of a dog who has been abused. Rather, dogs who have been subjected to abuse tend to be on the fearful side, shrinking away from contact, and behaving apathetically to interactions with humans.  They don't lash out, they retreat into a corner or into themselves.  With consistency, patience, and predictable outcomes, these dogs can blossom into individuals who aren't afraid and seek attention rather than avoiding it.  On the contrary, dogs who behave aggressively are the least likely to have come from situations involving abuse. Does that surprise you?  Want to know where their aggression comes from?

It comes from lack of socialization.  With other dogs, with people, and often both. It comes from their genetics.  One or both of their parents were aggressive too and passed that trait along to them. Jumping to the conclusion that an aggressive dog must have been abused and therefore deserves extra special attention and extra resources to "recover" is a fallacy. Aggression isn't a curable problem.  It's not like teaching a dog not to jump up or not to pull on leash.  Yes, aggressive dogs are anxious dogs, but most people aren't equipped to deal with aggression long term because it IS risky.  There is liability involved.  It may sound inordinately harsh, but I'd much rather see shelters, rescues, and my clients investing their time, money, expertise, and love in all of those other dogs who are free of issues in aggression.

I also know that sometimes prospective pet owners aren't given the full story. They aren't told about the aggression or it is glossed over.  Or they are told that the pet was abused, thus pulling at the heartstrings of that prospective new owner, when there is no evidence to support a claim of abuse whatsoever.  I think humans inherently want to "fix" these dogs and think that showering a dog with love and attention will reverse the aggression.  I am here to tell you not only will it not fix the aggression, it might make it worse, and your heart will be broken in the process.

Finally, while it may just be semantics, I think it does a disservice to a dog to be continually referred to as a rescue throughout their life when, in fact, said dog has been with their owners since they were puppies, for several months to years, etc.  Once you adopt that puppy or dog from a shelter or rescue, he is now your newest family member. Celebrate and welcome them into your family by introducing them that way!

As always, if you are having trouble with your pets, including aggression, please don't hesitate to ask for help. That's why I am here.

These two cuties are just waiting for a human to love and invest in them.  No fear.  No aggressive posturing.  Just curiosity, trust, and a willingness to engage!

It's The Little Things

It really is the little things that get to you. I have had more than one client reach out this week about something they described as "small but still annoying."  Even if a problem seems small, if it is effecting your relationship with your dog, then it's still a problem worth addressing.  What is also important to remember is that while something may be small and annoying today, it could spiral into a bigger issue if not dealt with in a timely manner.  I'll give you an example.

I met a dog last week who has never liked going to the vet.  Even as a puppy, he would be visibly anxious while there, but he was never aggressive.  His owners figured all dogs were anxious at the vet's office and didn't think of it much beyond a problem that is "small but annoying."  Fast forward to the same dog who is now 5 years old and not only fearful at the vet's office, he's now behaving aggressively. I got a call from the owner AND from the veterinarian.  Now this dog needs to be sedated in advance of appointments and muzzled for safety.  If we had addressed the anxiety when it first started, this story might have had a much different conclusion.  As it is, my plan is to work on some desensitization with handling for this dog, some relaxation techniques for both him and the owner, and build back to a stable relationship with the veterinarian and her staff.  This will take a lot longer to do now that the dog has been "pushed" to the point of aggression, but I am willing to work on it, as are the owners.

Maybe just one more example.

I have another client whose dog has been jumping up on people since he was a puppy.  Everyone thought it was cute then, he often got picked up when he did it, in fact.  Fast forward to now where he is 50 lbs, too big to pick up, but he still tries to jump in your arms, and he recently knocked an elderly neighbor right over onto the ground when he bounded into her.  She broke her hip and the dog's owners are mortified.  How did this happen?  By not addressing that small yet annoying problem of a dog who persists in jumping up on people, this is what can happen.

So, the moral of the story is this: No problem is too small. If it bothers you, your family, your veterinarian, your groomer, or your neighbors, it's worth dealing with head on and dealing with before it becomes a much bigger issue.

As always, if you have questions, I am here to help.

Even a little dog jumping up

 (especially with wet feet!) can be annoying

Accountability

Accountability.  Meeting or exceeding expectations.  Reliable. Approachable. Good listener.  These are words or phrases that I, and probably many of you, like to hear in reference to ourselves.  But I hear dog owners use those same words with reference to their canine companions.  He isn't what I thought he'd be.  I am disappointed with his unreliable recall. When people approach him he barks and jumps up.  When I say stay, he just walks away and doesn't listen to me.  But, see, here's the thing.  WE need to hold ourselves responsible and accountable first.  Did you research this breed?  Did you ask questions of the foster?  Did you work on recall before letting the dog off leash?  Did you teach your dog the consequences for NOT coming, NOT quieting when asked, etc.? If not, then it isn't your dog who isn't meeting expectations, it's you.

I always have loved the fact that Karen Pryor titled one of her books, "Don't Shoot the Dog." Seriously. It's not just his fault.  Accountability.  Understanding how dogs think and behave in a general sense is good, but learning how YOUR dog thinks is even more important.  Be a good observer and watch your dog.  Some dogs need you to stay right with them when they are working. Others want some space.  Some need to understand "NO!" just as much, if not more so than "YES!" Consequences are important for all of us and that includes your dog.  Don't be afraid to admonish bad or inappropriate behavior.  Ignoring the barking or jumping won't make it go away, that's for sure.

Lots of talk out there about how you should  never punish your kids or your dogs.  Lots of different definitions of punishment too.  A time out is punishment. Snappy-traps on the counter to stop counter surfing is punishment.  Taking away your kid's car keys/video game time/etc. are all forms of punishment.  I realize that just talking about punishment makes some people very uncomfortable.  That's a good thing though. It means it's time to talk about these topics and explore our discomfort.  Our dogs, and our kids, really need us to be reliable, accountable, guardians.  Dishing out consequences doesn't make you a bad parent or a bad dog owner.

As always, if you have questions, please don't hesitate to ask.  Progress is made with these kinds of hard conversations.

Ozzie demonstrating good listening off leash.

Let's Talk About Crate Training!

Yesterday, a client called because she was at her wit's end with her new puppy.  The puppy is 5 months old and hates her crate!  She cries, whines, digs, drools, and won't settle down at all.  They've moved the crate from room to room, covered the crate, tried feeding her all her meals in it, and nothing seems to be working.  They've trained her to go into her crate on command, which she will do readily, but she doesn't want to stay in there, and she certainly won't sleep in there through the night.  This wonderful, sleep-deprived client indicated she would do whatever I said...gut it out, change crates, etc., they just need a solution and fast.

Most puppies, and even a lot of adult dogs, can fairly easily be trained to accept and even enjoy a crate.  Once they view it as their den, or safe haven, they will enjoy going in there, even on their own, when they wish to rest and be left alone.  This puppy, however, came to her new home via crate on an airplane, complete with a long layover.  She had been raised with other puppies and dogs in a large barn situation and never been confined before that long plane ride to her new home.  Is it any wonder she hated the crate?

While I do feel that crate training is a plus with a puppy, particularly when using it to help house train them, I also know that they aren't right for every puppy.  I think this puppy needs to continue to eat her meals in her crate, as well as have her bones and treats there.  I think that, over time, she can even learn to enjoy her naps in it. However, I think her night time plan needs a revamp.  Instead of the crate, I asked the client to place a cozy dog bed near her side of the bed.  The dog bed should be placed in such a way that when the pup is tethered to the nightstand, she can't leave her dog bed area.  The tether can be attached to a body harness for more comfort.  If the puppy cries to go outside, the owner will hear her, but not being restricted to a crate per se, should help them all sleep through the night.

I think it's important for us all to remember that the cookie cutter approach to crate training isn't going to work for every puppy or dog.  Instead, each animal must be looked at as an individual and have their temperament, age, breed, early upbringing, etc. taken into consideration when deciding on what type of crate to use, where to place the crate, how long they should be in there, and whether they should be crate trained at all. Some dogs will do better with an x-pen than a crate. Others will do better in the laundry room or kitchen than with an x-pen.  You will want to explore all of your options and not feel like a failure if crate training doesn't work for you and your puppy. Yes, it IS easier to house train a puppy who is crate trained, but it is also the case that many of us house trained puppies for years and years before the notion of crate training ever came into favor!  Crates are just a tool that you can use.  You have lots of choices, so don't feel bad if at first you don't succeed.  Perseverance pays off in the long run.  Some pups cry the first night in the crate and are happy as clams from then on.  Go figure.

As always, if you are having trouble crate training your puppy, you know where to find me.

Ozzie has never been a fan of crates either, but he will go when asked, 

especially if there is a yummy snack involved and crate time is kept to a minimum!

Planning For the Future

Years ago, I did extended dog care for an elderly client with a young Yorkie.  My client was in and out of the hospital, and I always cared for her little dog in her absence.  At one point, my client asked if I would take care of her dog in the event that she passed away.  She felt that her family wouldn't care for the dog the way that I did and this was really weighing on her mind.  At the time, I had just one dog and one cat, and I lived alone.  I told her I would be honored to care for her dog should something happen to her. This gave her such peace of mind and was so simple for me to do. Her little dog lived with us for weeks at a time as it was!  The best part of this story? She ended up outliving her little dog by almost five years!

From the moment I agreed to care for that little Yorkie, I got to thinking about who would care for my animals should something happen to me. My mom wasn't really an "animal person," but when I asked her, she said she would take my dog in a heart beat because she was so fond of her and she was well behaved. Whew.  My cousin said she would take my cat, so I was all set. I, too, felt an overwhelming relief that my pets would be cared for if something happened to me.  Each time I have added a new dog to my home, I think about what would be best for them if something happened to me.  Now I am blessed with kids and a spouse who love my animals as much as I do, so there is little worry that my pets would have any lapse in their care.  For many of my clients, however, that isn't always the case. 

If you have pets, it is important to plan for their future without you, should something happen.  Confirm that family or friends will take care of your animals and let them know how you want your animals cared for in your absence.  More than once, I have seen a pet end up at the shelter or passed around because a well-meaning friend or family member indicated that they would care for an animal, but when the time came, they just couldn't do it.  Encourage your family and friends to be honest with you. If they can't step into that role of caretaker for your pets, better to know now so that you can make other arrangements.  Make sure your decisions are in writing and kept up to date if you add new animals to your home, or as your animals pass away. 

I realize this isn't an easy topic or one anybody really wants to think about. However, if you get this all settled in advance, you will have less to worry about as time marches on...as it always does.

Shadow, a sweet Border Collie mix, would have lived with

 my mom had something happened to me

From Frustrated to Fabulous!

Training your dog can be frustrating.  Maybe you have a puppy and you are frustrated with house training. It seems like every time you take that puppy outside, he chases leaves, and the second you bring him indoors, he poops on the carpet.  Or maybe you have a young dog who pulls on leash from the second you hook it on, dragging you out the door and down the block. Or perhaps you have a middle-aged dog who just won't stop barking in the yard, or an elderly dog who has to be coaxed to do anything at all.  I hear you.  All of these scenarios are frustrating and yet I see them all as opportunities.  Opportunities to switch it up, try something different, look at the problem from a different point of view with, potentially, a less-frustrating outcome.

In classes, I feel like I am always telling people not to "marry" themselves to any one training tool.  While you may love your dog's behavior when you walk him on a head halter now, that doesn't mean that this will necessarily be the magic tool for pleasant walks for the rest of the dog's life.  Conversely, if you need to use a choke chain or a pinch collar to gain control, that's okay too. It's likely you won't have to use it forever either.  Pet owners need to be flexible and open to trying to new things.  Throwing up your hands and declaring that your dog will "never walk nicely on a leash" doesn't help anything, least of all your relationship with your dog. Instead, try something new. If you have been using a front hook harness, why not try a Thunderleash or a head halter instead?

And for that barking dog.  Why is your dog barking?  If this is nuisance barking, that's one thing.  But maybe there is something there.  First you have to identify WHY your dog is barking, then apply a consequence.  Yelling at the dog isn't going to work.  Now, you are barking too! Instead, find out why the dog is barking and respond accordingly. Nuisance barking?  Redirect and if that doesn't work a time out.  Barking at the neighbors, squirrels, trucks going by?  Acknowledge their vigilance, ask for the quiet, and then redirect.  If barking persists, it's time out time.

Oftentimes, when you look at the situation from your dog's point of view, the solution becomes much more obvious.  We all need to let go of preconceived notions of how dogs *should* behave and think about how the dog in front of us *does* behave.  Reward the good stuff, stop emphasizing all the bad stuff, and take a new approach to find the solution that works for you and your dog.

As always, if you need help strategizing, I am here for you.

Ozzie and Desi hard at work for a cookie they don't usually get!

Why Would a Dog Eat Rocks?

Unfortunately, I have met more than one dog who ate rocks.  I've also met dogs that eat socks and underwear, Lego's, and an entire pack of highlighter pens!  Why in the world would a dog purposefully eat something that is so obviously (to us) inedible?

The technical term for this behavior is Pica.  There is no one cause for the behavior and often there seems to be little reason a dog (or cat) exhibits the behavior. Meaning, it isn't because you were always taking rocks out of your puppy's mouth, so now he swallows them instead of relinquishing them to you. For some dogs and cats, however, there is a medical reason behind their behavior.  Taking your pet to the vet's office for a complete exam is the best place to start. Once you have ruled out nutritional deficiencies and medical conditions like diabetes, for example, then it is time to explore the problem as behavioral in origin. Oftentimes, this behavior is about boredom or anxiety so treating that is the place to start. First and foremost, however, you must try to control your pet's access to whatever it is that they ingest inappropriately. So, if it's rocks in your yard, get rid of the rocks. If it's socks on the floor, get those socks picked up and put away where the dog can't reach them.  Lego's should be played with on a table out of reach as should those highlighter pens, for example.

So what do you do if the rocks and other inedible objects your dog loves are the ones he finds on your daily walks?  You can try to teach the "leave it" and "drop it" commands and trade for yummy edible treats, but for many dogs that isn't enough.  They will just quickly swallow the rock and then go for the treat you are offering.  For dogs like this, muzzle training is a must.  Having your dog learn to wear a humane, basket-style muzzle means you can walk him safely and without that overwhelming anxiety on your part.  You can redirect him from rocks to the treats you have in your hand, knowing full well that he won't be able to pick up the rock and swallow it. Obviously, you still want to avoid walking in areas where rocks are evident! Over time, you may be able to discontinue using the muzzle, but for many owners it just provides a level of insurance that their dog won't return to the potentially deadly behavior.

If your dog is ingesting inedible objects inside your home, it's time to think about boundaries and boredom busters.  The dog should be confined to an x-pen or crate anytime they can't be watched.  If doing that creates anxiety, then muzzle train your dog indoors as well.  Boredom busters like the addition of interactive toys, feeders on a timer, etc.  are helpful in redirecting a bored dog.  Adding in real bones may help as well if your dog was seeking out rocks in order to find something hard to chew on. Conversely, if your dog loves socks and underwear, you will need to explore soft-style toy options that are too large to be swallowed and tough enough not to be torn apart and then swallowed.

With cats, Pica often manifests as a cat that eats fabric or sucks on fabric until holes are created.  Cats may also ingest threads or string.  Obviously, muzzling a cat isn't a feasible solution. Instead, the cat's access in your home must be limited to areas where they can't ingest fabric, even if that means confinement to one very small area.  Better to outfit that small area with toys, climbing apparatus, etc. to mentally engage your cat than to give him free rein knowing he might ingest something potentially fatal.

If you think your pet has swallowed something inedible, watch them closely.  If they try to eat or drink and end up vomiting, exhibit discomfort, lethargy, or inappetence, then they may have a blockage caused by that foreign object. While a small rock or gravel might pass somewhat easily through their digestive tract, a large stone will not. And if you know your dog has consumed several objects or something like a sock, or you find holes in a blanket that your cat sleeps on, a trip to the vet is a must before that potential blockage becomes an even bigger issue. Pica is definitely one of those situations where prevention is the biggest piece of the cure.  Don't give your pet the opportunity to manifest the behavior.  Do give them other, more appropriate options.

As always, if you are having trouble with Pica in your pet, please don't hesitate to reach out to me for further assistance in getting back on track.

Like most puppies, Freddie liked to pick up leaves on our walks, 

but was easily redirected to treats instead.