Canine Controversy

I've been seeing a lot of articles lately about the beautiful Standard Poodle, Siba, who won "Best in Show" at Westminster. Apparently, a CNN correspondent ridiculed the Poodle's cut and made scathing remarks about dog shows in general.  Fortunately, there was a clap back as people explained why Poodles have their hair cut that way (they are water retrieving dogs and the cut makes them more aerodynamic when moving through water while protecting and warming vital muscles used for swimming and retrieving) and making excellent arguments in defense of dog shows as a way to showcase the different dog breeds and what they are designed to do.  Yes, designed.  Dogs have been selectively bred over thousands of years to serve particular purposes for people, hence the different breed categories at those dog shows.  So, all of this really got me to thinking about the people I meet and the dogs they choose.

So often, I have clients choosing dogs based on the popularity of the breed or because they "met a really nice one." Rather than giving thought to where they live, how they live, and how much time (and money) they have to spend on training, coat care, vet services, etc.  And then there are the clients who choose a dog breed based on appearance alone without any thought to what the dog was bred to do.  Don't get me wrong, I love the soft coat, 40 lb body size, and beautiful brain of a Border Collie as much as anyone else. They are not, however, the best choice if you are frail, inactive, work 14 hour days, or have an aversion to exercise. Border Collies that don't get enough mental and physical stimulation every single day are difficult to live with.  And, yet, I've had clients choose this breed because they are "so cute and so smart" without any idea of how they will challenge that dog for the next 15 years.  Same goes for the clients who love Beagles, but have given little thought to the fact that they howl and bay to communicate, often have poor recall because their noses get the better of them, and can escape any enclosure you attempt to confine them in.  Again, I love Beagles.  They are a great size, have a low maintenance coat, and usually love kids.  However, if digging, barking, and running off are a problem for you, then this isn't your breed.  Border Collies are herding dogs and Beagles are scent hounds.  Knowing whether you can live with the traits inherent to those classifications is key and simply must take precedence over outward appearance, popularity, or the fact that you met one once that stole your heart.

Finally, there is the client with the Dachshund who has complained that he doesn't have any stamina when she runs with him.  If she wanted a running partner, she should have chosen a dog with longer legs! Dachshunds are scent hounds whose bodies are designed for digging and tunneling after badgers, rabbits, etc.  They are not built for long distance running. Same goes for the client in Arizona with the English Bulldog.  She complained that she had to keep the A/C on all the time just for him and it was costing her a fortune.  Umm.  English Bulldogs are brachycephalic.  They have difficulty breathing in weather extremes.  While Bulldogs like to lay in the sunshine, they overheat and will seek out a cool place.  She lives in an area of Arizona that is routinely in the triple digits.  That may not have been the best place to retire with her Bully.

Why am I telling you all of this? I guess because it isn't just the general public (or ill-informed CNN correspondents!) who don't understand the importance of the different dog breeds, why they look the way they do, and what they were bred for.  Even dog lovers can get caught up in the hoopla and lose sight when trying to find the right canine companion for their living situation.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, (or you want to talk about dog breeds!), you know where to find me.

Ozzie is a Collie which means he is a herding dog. 

 This is him waiting for his turn to go in the pen and round up some sheep.

Collies live for that!

The Power of Being Calm

I met again with a client I hadn't seen in a several months.  She has a very anxious dog; he's been anxious every day of his life and now at almost 6 years of age, his anxious behavior is affecting the other dogs in the house, and not surprisingly, the people too. Interestingly enough, drug therapy didn't help this dog at all; we tried several different drugs and altered the doses numerous times with the help of her veterinarian, and all we succeeded in doing was making her anxious dog really tired.  I encouraged the owner to return to behavioral modification to relieve some of the pressure everyone is experiencing in this busy household.  She invited me to come out and help her do just that.

Although the dogs definitely barked when I arrived, no one was over the top and the anxious dog brought me his ball, his go-to stress reliever.  As we talked, the dogs settled in around us, watchful, but calm overall. The owner indicated that this isn't how it is at all and that they were showing off for me! I told her it's more likely that she's relaxed having me there, and her dogs feel that relief too.  We let the dogs out for a bathroom break and she indicated that this is often when excessive barking occurs.  As soon as I saw them all relieve themselves, I used a dog whistle to get their attention, then called them back inside for treats.  The owner indicated that's DEFINITELY not what usually happens.  Because they are really anxious on walks, I suggested splitting the dogs up for walking.  She was afraid this would make more work for her, but I told her the walks would be less work because they'd be less stressful. She could divide her walking time among the dogs, and focus on letting them sniff on their walks to burn off energy, rather than trying to walk a certain distance or for a certain amount of time.  As she was getting the leashes out, all the dogs started getting pretty riled up.  I had brought a shaker can with me (just an old soda can filled with pebbles), so I shook the can behind my back to interrupt their frantic barking.  All the dogs stopped barking and began looking around for the sound.  At this point, she could call them over, ask them to sit, and reward them by putting on leashes.  Out on the walk, I found the dogs to be pretty good overall. I had the owner begin encouraging them to sniff and they sniffed with gusto.  Formerly bark-worthy things like moving cars, other people and dogs, etc. got a few glances and whines, but no frenzy.  The owner indicated that it was my presence that was resulting in their best behavior. I told her no, it was the fact that SHE was calmer with me there, AND we were not trying to walk all the dogs at the same time AND we were redirecting their attention to sniffing.  By the time we finished walking all of the dogs, they were all very calm and content resting on the couch.

Sometimes it really is just a change in mindset that gets the ball rolling.  Reminding yourself to stay calm and in the moment with your dog.  Encourage sniffing.  Stop and assess where you are walking and change direction if you feel overwhelmed.  Little tools like dog whistles and shaker cans are great at interrupting behavior.  You just have to be ready to follow them up with direction to what you really want your dogs to do.  There are no "magic pills," and for some dogs medication does little to relieve their anxiety.  By focusing on what we as dog owners can do to relieve stress and remove some of the pressures our dogs are feeling, WE are essentially "the magic pills."  Small changes can have a large impact.  Never underestimate the power of being calm. And asking for help.

As always, if you need help with your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Ozzie's anxiety on walks has improved over the years.  He's less anxious about bikes and cars, though still very watchful with scooters and skateboards.  He's an avid sniffer and we always encourage him to do so, knowing it helps him relax and enjoy his walks more.

Surviving Your Dog's Adolescence!

I had a lovely conversation with a dog owner in one of my classes.  She has an adolescent German Shepherd Dog who, as she put it, "really knows how to push my buttons." The dog has been through several training classes (and the owner has attended several of my seminars as well) and yet there are still challenges to be faced daily.  Pulling on leash, barking on and off at other dogs, not listening, counter surfing, jumping up on visitors, and stealing her owner's stuff were just a few of the highlights.  This dog owner is not alone.  These are all very common issues to be faced when you live with an adolescent dog.

Dogs go through adolescence from roughly 8 or 9 months of age until about 18 months to 2 years old, depending on breed. As with teenage humans, adolescent dogs are experiencing a great deal of physical and psychological changes that effect their behavior.  They aren't those puppies that want to follow you everywhere and hang on your every word anymore. They are more independent, free-thinking, and often defiant.  But it isn't all horrible.  Adolescent dogs are quick learners, ready to work on a moment's notice. And a little patience on your part will go a long way to surviving and thriving during your dog's adolescent phase.

First of all, it's time to change things up.  Some of the puppy toys and chewing options your dog had as a young puppy are no longer challenging or satisfying.  You will need to step up your game and expand the offerings to bones, chews, and interactive toys suitable to this age.  Durability of the toys and chews is a must as adolescent dogs have adult teeth and can be hard-core chewers.  Interactive toys and chews combat boredom as well as provide mental exercise and jaw stimulation for your developing dog.  Rotate those toys and chews daily to maintain their novelty and interest for your dog.  Pick up your stuff if you don't want your dog to get it.  Continue to work on leave it and drop it.  Don't leave your dog alone unsupervised in the kitchen where he can counter surf without consequences from you.

With adolescence comes physical growth.  These dogs are getting bigger, bolder, and rowdier.  Make sure your dog is getting enough physical exercise daily, taking into account that their bones and joints are still developing.  They will want to explore on their walks (hence all the pulling on leash!), sniffing constantly.  That's completely normal. Let them sniff! Sniffing is a great anxiety reliever for dogs and actually serves to "wear them out" on their walks. And while naps in their crates are still important, you will likely notice that your adolescent dog has a different sleep pattern than he did as a puppy.

Opportunities for socialization are still important.  Taking your adolescent dogs to training classes geared toward them is warranted.  Classes with a focus on leash walking, public manners, and even tricks training will be what you want to look for.  Take your dog with you as much as possible so that they can continue to meet new people and experience new places and activities thus helping to move through some of the fear and blustery behavior exhibited by adolescent dogs in social situations.  Don't reinforce their fear, but be supportive.  Let them stop and assess the situation. It's okay to bark too.  Be patient and consistent in your responses as well.

Practice recall with your adolescent dogs every day.  Make coming to you fun and rewarding. If your dog is slow to come (or won't come at all!), put a long leash on him before you start working.  Get your dog's attention FIRST.  Then, call your dog with an upbeat voice and if necessary, slowly start putting pressure on that long leash to get the dog to move toward you. Once he arrives, get excited and offer love and treats for a job well done.

I know that it may seem like all of the training you did with your puppy went right in one ear and out the other judging by your adolescent dog's behavior, but don't despair. They did hear you and they did learn those behaviors, they just are behaving like typical teenagers.  They will come back around as long as you remain calm, supportive, patient and persevere in getting what you want from them.  And if you need more help, or want to commiserate with other folks dealing with adolescent dogs, I am offering a short course on dealing with your dog's adolescence.  There will be an option to take the class with your adolescent dog, or for people with puppies who want to get a head start, they can sign up to take the class without their pups.  Here's the link:

 https://adobedogs.dogbizpro.com/Public/Registration/Index.aspx?schedule=817

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Adolescent dog defiance, collie style. Westley had been told twice not to dig up and eat grass, but he ignored my daughter's request.  When she removed him to redirect him, the tell-tale evidence of his shenanigans was right there on his nose!

Planning Ahead!

I've had two clients call this week worried about what they will do with their dogs when they travel this spring and summer.  These are clients whose dogs are special needs; one has a dog who can be unpredictable and aggressive, and the other has a deaf dog with separation anxiety. Both clients have managed (up until this point) to not be away from home with their entire family in tow.  Both of these dogs are fine as long as their routines are in place and a familiar person in the immediate family is there with them.  Family vacations are important, but these two clients have been putting them off as they didn't want to face the inevitable. So, what should they do if everyone is going to be gone at the same time?

Given that both of these dogs feel most comfortable at home, my first suggestion was to see if there was anyone these owners trusted to come into their homes and take care of their dogs. While the deaf dog with separation anxiety could, in theory, be kenneled, he would have to be kenneled someplace with 24 hour care, and the aggressive dog wouldn't be a candidate for kenneling as new environments and strangers are triggering. The other option would be to "board" the dogs with someone they trust in that person's home.  The aggressive dog has a couple of dog friends and the owner trusts those dogs' owners, so perhaps a trade could be made where my client would watch one of their dogs in her home in the future in exchange for watching her dog now.  She does need to be transparent, however, about her dog's aggressive behavior.  She's always been very forthright with new people who meet her dog, so I feel confident that she can make this work, it just may take some time.  The deaf dog with separation anxiety may end up spending a few days staying with someone who operates an in-home daycare.  That dog has no aggression issues and can be around other dogs, care just has to be taken not to leave him alone and to make sure he is always on leash when outside as he will wander off and can't hear his name being called.  He does respond to sign language, but finding a caregiver who signs may be just more than my clients can find in a few months' time!

The bottom line is this:  with some planning ahead, I anticipate that both of these clients will be able to safely leave their dogs behind for a few days while they vacation with their families.  By planning far in advance, they optimize their chances for success and ease their minds about leaving their dogs behind.  Not every boarding or kenneling solution works for every dog or every dog owner.  And dogs with special needs like those I see on a daily basis, need just a bit more work to find the perfect fit.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

I hated the thought of leaving Ozzie when he was just a 6 month old puppy!  

However, he stayed with friends who reinforced boundaries, including naps in the x-pen, and basically made sure that he was well-cared for in our absence.  In return, we watch their dogs with an equal amount of love and care when they are gone!

Territorial Barking

I had a client call me yesterday to complain about her dog barking at her back fence, driving one of her neighbors nuts.  She said the neighbor had been pretty nice the first time he came over to talk about the dog barking at their shared fence, but the neighbor's most recent visit was a good deal less "neighborly." I definitely understood her frustration. I have male collies, so I know firsthand just how annoying territorial barking can be!

Dogs bark at the fence for a couple of different reasons.  First and foremost, they are guardians of your yard and home, so they bark to let you know when there are any changes in the area.  Some reserve their barks for actual "intruders," such as gardeners, pool cleaners, etc., but many bark any time someone walks by the fence.  Or walks by on the other side of the street.  Or when a bird lands on the fence. Or the squirrels run by. Or the wind blows and makes the fence moan.  You get the picture. Territorial barking varies in frequency and intensity depending on the dog and depending on your response to the barking.

First off, don't just yell at them to knock it off.  They are doing their job, so you yelling just makes it worse because they don't think you understand the importance of the situation.  Go find out why your dog is barking.  Even if you aren't sure, meaning there isn't an obvious reason to you for their barking, go find out and acknowledge them.  Once you've done that, then tell them to be quiet and redirect their attention elsewhere.  Don't call them using the word "come," however, because calling them away from barking isn't something they will perceive as a positive experience. You want to use the "come" command only for those situations where your dog will perceive coming to you as a plus.  Trust me, they'd rather bark at the fence!  Try whistling or clapping your hands to get their attention and then offer an alternative activity. If you want them to come inside, squeak a toy and toss it in the house for them to chase.  Or, better yet, whistle to get their attention, ask them for something fun like touch or shake, and then toss a treat inside for them to chase after.  This makes coming away from the fence and discontinuing barking a lot more interesting for your dog.

If your dog is barking at your neighbors when they are in their own yard, keep in mind that they do this because that fence is shared; your neighbor thinks they own the fence, but your dog KNOWS the fence is actually his!  Make running that shared fence line less desirable by putting up a pointy, picket fence a foot in front of it, or prickly plants, or wobbly stones to discourage rushing the fence. You can even use motion activated sprinklers to spray your dog with water to discourage running that shared fence line.  And remember that while you may be able to control your dog's barking when you are home, all bets are off when you aren't there to respond to their barking with a consequence. Thus, hyper vigilant dogs should be confined to their crates, kept indoors, or put in their dog run away from those shared fences so they are less likely to disrupt the neighborhood.

And if you are lucky, your neighbors will appreciate the work your dogs do to keep the neighborhood safe. One of my neighbors believes that the reason her house didn't get broken into like the one two doors up from her this past summer is because anyone breaking in would have to try to sneak in along the side of her house and that's a fence line that Ozzie guards meticulously.  He's got a big bark and she tells him how good he is when he barks there at her gardener and her pool guy.  She told me she feels safer knowing he's keeping an eye on things.  The neighbors on the other side aren't nearly as appreciative of his hard work, so I call him off of their fence to make sure we are being neighborly. It's a constant job monitoring a barking dog, but barking is something dogs do well (and often) and one of the reasons we domesticated them in the first place.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Ozzie on fence patrol. He makes the rounds in the yard several times a day.

New Things Can Be Scary!

I had the pleasure recently of hearing Temple Grandin speak regarding her lifelong research on livestock behavior. If you aren't familiar with Dr. Grandin, she is a professor of animal science and a spokesperson for people on the autism spectrum. It is fascinating to hear her discuss learning differences in humans as well as other animals.

During her recent presentation, she discussed how sudden novel or new experiences are frightening to animals as well as to some people with autism. However, if you allow people and animals to approach those new things at their own pace and by their own choosing, they are more readily accepted than when those novel things are just suddenly introduced without allowing  for choice.  While this may not seem groundbreaking, it is, nonetheless, incredibly important.  Here's an example from the world of dogs.

I have a new client who was sent my way by her veterinarian.  She and her 10 month old puppy had been working with a dog trainer who had been "pushing" the dog to interact with children, despite the fact that the puppy has always been hesitant around kids and mostly avoidant. Her vet was afraid that the dog would not only not get over his fear of kids, but that it might spill over into aggression if the dog felt cornered or threatened. If we think about what Dr. Grandin said above, forcing this puppy to meet and interact with kids is just causing more fear and resistance.  If, instead, we allow the puppy to make choices when in the presence of kids, he should be more likely, over time, to accept them as he has other humans. To test this, I went with the client and her puppy to the park.  We walked around the park, letting her puppy choose what he wanted to do.  He sniffed (A LOT), chased a few squirrels, let a few adults pet him, etc.  When we sat down on a bench near the soccer field where kids were playing, her puppy at first resisted, trying to escape.  When he realized we weren't going to make him go out on the field, he started to relax, and then relaxed completely and could take treats while cautiously watching the kids run around.  For our next meeting, we met outside a school where we could watch the kids on the playground, but where the kids wouldn't approach us given that it was during the school day.  The puppy was, again, nervous at first, but after about 30 minutes, he settled down to watch the kids and chew on a bone.  I had the owner do these same activities with her puppy every day for 2 weeks; they just watched kids from a safe distance.  After two weeks, her puppy was no longer focused on kids, or nervous in their presence.  At this point, we were ready to start bringing kids around him that he could choose to interact with or not.  After 3 months of this, allowing the puppy to make the choices, we discovered that not only did her puppy finally seek out some kids, he was better in general with all kids. He definitely has preferences with regard to kids (he prefers the older, quieter kids who ignore him at first), but he is better around all kids overall.

I just want to leave you with one more fun tidbit from Dr. Grandin's presentation.  She reviewed some research which found that fear is a strong stressor for young dogs, and those dogs who are fearful of loud noises or unfamiliar people, actually turn prematurely gray on their muzzles! Glad we got this puppy on the right track before his sweet little brown face went gray!

If you would like to read more about Dr. Grandin and her research, pick up a copy of one of her books, "Animals in Translation" or "Animals Make Us Human."

Ozzie has never been a fan of the wading pool.  If you were to try to force him to go in it, he would actively resist. If, however, you put a small amount of water and a ton of ice cubes in it, and walk away, he will eventually approach the pool on his own and carefully select ice cubes for himself to eat. Thus, while he loves ice, he doesn't love the pool.  He has to be given the opportunity to choose on his own, and at his own pace, to find this activity rewarding on a hot summer day.

Fear Memories

When Ozzie was 12 weeks old, he was out on a walk when he became completely overwhelmed by the approach of several kids on skateboards and scooters.  They came right at him on the sidewalk, popped the curb, and zoomed away.  From that day forward, he has been afraid of skateboards and scooters.  No amount of desensitization has convinced him otherwise.  Seeing his family on skates, skateboards, and scooters still creates anxiety.  That's what is meant by the term "fear memory."

Fear memories are usually visual or auditory (or both in Ozzie's case) and are an example of situational learning. Dogs respond to fear memories by wanting to freeze, fight, or in Ozzie's case, flee.  He is now 5 years old and while he doesn't bolt when he sees or hears skateboards or scooters anymore, he is still hyper-vigilant.  Some days go better than others, meaning on some days I can get him to sit next to me as we watch the evil wheeled objects go by.  I remind him that I've got his back and that I won't let them come near him.  I don't try to minimize his fear because to him, it's a very real issue.  I don't reinforce his fear by trying to give him treats (he wouldn't take them anyway!).  What I do is stand with him and we face it together.  And then there are other days when all he wants to do is race speedy quick and get past the wheeled demons as fast as possible.  I can't predict which way it will go as the fear memory is Ozzie's, not mine.  I think it depends on how he is feeling in general that day.

Ozzie isn't alone with his fear memories. I meet dogs every day who are afraid of men in hats, people of color, kids, crying babies, loud trucks, etc.  Sometimes, we can't figure out the specific, first trigger, but that doesn't make the fear any less real or important for the dog. Avoiding those things that trigger the fear memory is possible in some cases, but not always.  You need to walk your dog and you have no way of knowing if someone else will be out walking with a hat on, for example. So, instead of getting frustrated and trying to avoid those situations, move through them with your dog.  Don't panic. Don't cue them to the issue (believe me, if there is a fear memory at play here, they don't need you to cue them!).  Don't force them to lay down in the presence of their nemesis.  Do position yourself in a supportive/protective way.  You can place a hand on your dog if that reinforces your support of them. Acknowledge whatever it is and remind them that they can survive this.  See if you can get them to sniff the ground, look for birds or squirrels, etc., anything that competes with their fear memory for attention in their brain.  Hopefully, over time, your dog will come to see that while they still must remain vigilant, their vigilance won't keep them (or you) from enjoying those walks.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

The beach is one of Ozzie's favorite places to walk. 

No scooters or skateboards and plenty of birds to chase!