Not Every Dog Is An Einstein

 There was a wonderful article in the New York Times last week about why people think that their dogs are smart.  Did you read the article too?  If you didn't, and want to, here's the link:

https://www.nytimes.com/2026/04/15/science/pets-dogs-intelligence.html?campaign_id=9&emc=edit_nn_20260416&instance_id=174162&nl=the-morning&regi_id=119526550&segment_id=218310&user_id=5b6f3acda3c1e75ce5f119e547e74d2e

I really love when science and mainstream media meet as it gives us all an opportunity to think about a topic in a more thoughtful way, looking more closely at where our own biases effect the way we think about the world.  In this case, the way we think about dogs in general, and our own beloved canines, specifically.

Here's the gist of the article and why it's important:  Researchers have consistently found that dog owners rank their dog's intelligence with what's called a "better than average effect," or what we referred to in the psychology classes I taught at UC Davis as "cognitive bias."  Basically, we dog owners tend to overestimate the abilities of dogs in general, but we really tend to overestimate our own dog's intelligence.  Remember that Border Collie that made the news and was even in a story on 60 Minutes?  Her name was Chaser and she was a female Border Collie who could identify over 1000 toys by name.  This is a feat known as "word learning" and it is actually rare as it takes a combination of dedicated direct instruction by the human caretakers and the dog's own natural ability to eavesdrop on human conversations about objects and make inferences. For some reason, herding dogs like Border Collies seem to excel at these tasks, but not every Border Collie excels like Chaser. So, why do people who participate in these studies consistently rank their dogs, regardless of breed, as being so cognitively gifted?

I was fascinated by the data here:  While it is often stated that a dog's cognitive skills are on par with a human toddler (aged 1-3 years), this is really too simplistic a claim given the number of skills a toddler has that a dog doesn't and vice versa.  And, yet, in a 2025 study, people consistently ranked their dogs as having equivalent cognitive skills as 3-5 year old children, and many people ranked their dogs as being on par cognitively with a 16 year old kid. In one study, about a quarter of the participants ranked dogs as smarter than most people! Only 6% of the study participants said their dogs possessed a lower than average intelligence. The conclusion I found most interesting was that the dog owners who were most emotionally bonded to their dogs gave higher cognitive skill ratings to ALL dogs, not just their own.  So, somehow that emotional bond the study participants had with dogs caused them to rate dogs as more intelligent in a general sense.  And they also rated their own dogs more favorably than the average dog on markers such as loyalty and friendliness, and not just intelligence. That, I think, is really important.

Dogs excel at reading people. They read our body language, facial expressions, etc. and make inferences from that.  For example, when we look out a window, they'll often go over and look out too.  Or if we point at something, they'll look where we are pointing.  They'll get your attention when their ball rolls under the couch, demonstrating that they have object permanence; even though that ball is out of sight, they know it still exists.  Some scientists even believe that dogs can understand that others have a different perspective than they themselves have, a skill previously thought to be limited to primates and dolphins.

So, while at least two thirds of us dog owners might be like those in the 2025 study, stating unequivocally that our dogs are smarter than the average dog, the truth is this: Most of us are, statistically speaking, more likely to be living with dogs on the lower end of the intelligence spectrum. And, you know what?  That's not just okay, it's better than okay!  There is absolutely nothing wrong with a dog who can't remember where they left their ball or has to be reminded every time to sit before they go out the door.  Think of it this way:  Intelligence in dogs is a gift and a curse.  Really smart dogs like Chaser the Border Collie need almost constant engagement in the form of enrichment opportunities and mental stimulation so that they don't become bored, anxious, or destructive. In my opinion, a dog who excels at being a beloved family member is a dog to be desired and appreciated. Just because your dog has to be shown where you dropped the treat for him because a finger point in that direction is met with a blank stare, doesn't make your dog any less valuable than any other dog.  There are so many ways to be smart other than showing a knack for word learning or object permanence. 

Generally speaking, dogs have the uncanny ability to bloom where they are planted and that's a skill I wish more people had.  They find joy in the mundane, they relish schedules and routine, and they are happy just to be with us.  Your dog loves you unconditionally, so love him back for who he is: Your faithful, devoted companion whose most special ability is the one that allows him to bond to you and your family.  Frankly, that's the skill that I value the most in a dog.  In my mind, any dog can learn a party trick and the names of a few toys.  Bright dogs know when it's time for dinner and get you into the kitchen to prepare it as if they were the ones wearing the smartwatch.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Here's Henley, ready to work.  He loves learning new tasks and tricks and is a pretty quick study.  He's learned to follow a finger point but may seem to forget the name of a familiar object.  But you know what amazing skill he has?  He knows when it's time to take his anti-seizure medications and he'll come get me if I seem to be forgetting that it's time.  Frankly, I find that absolutely incredible as, (1) I often lose track of time and it really helps that he doesn't and (2) he needs those meds twice daily on a schedule and he knows the schedule better than I do. Do I think Henley is brilliant? No, but I do think he excels at love, friendliness, and a desire to learn. He's the perfect dog for me.

Surface Preferences & Toileting Habits

A few weeks ago, a long time client reached out for help with her adult dog.  I've known her since this dog was a puppy and they lived here in California.  She's since moved to the Midwest to be closer to family and that seems to be when the issue with toileting habits began.  You see, her dog was trained as a puppy to toilet on artificial turf as that's what she had in her yard here.  We began with a patch of artificial turf in an xpen to keep her tiny puppy safe and he eventually graduated to using her entire backyard, no problem.  Other than the fact he hated going outside to toilet on rainy days (we added an area covered by an awning to fix that issue!), all went well with his house training.  All went well, that is, until they moved four months ago.  Since then, he's been toileting everywhere, except where she wants him to go!  She actually suggested that I share her story as she'd not seen it here on my blog before and she felt that my suggestions not only made sense, but that they would work for her. 

It's really important to start with the way puppies learn to toilet appropriately.  If their breeder exclusively uses puppy pads, for example, never introducing them to other substrates such as fake grass, real grass, ground cover, or bark, these puppies will develop a surface preference for puppy pads and other soft surfaces like furniture, backpacks on the ground, throw rugs, towels, and piles of laundry. This means that when you bring your puppy home and try to teach them to toilet outside on your lawn or in the ground cover, they'll look at you confused.  They'll play and romp in those areas, but they won't toilet out there, no matter how long they're outside, or how much you cajole or bribe them.  Then, you'll bring them indoors and within minutes they'll void on the rug by the door or the laundry you are sorting.  Why? Because their breeder trained them to do so! If, instead, your breeder introduces several different toileting surfaces, especially adding in those surfaces outdoors, rewarding the puppies for using them all, they won't develop a specific surface preference, instead developing a preference for going outdoors, whatever surface is available there. That way, no matter what your yard situation is, your puppy is primed to toilet appropriately.

Back to my client's puppy.  He had come from a breeder who exclusively used puppy pads for toileting.  The pads were always inside her house and always inside an xpen.  When the puppy came to live with my client, she was instructed by the breeder to continue to use these pads as they "made house training so convenient with a little dog."  My client knew she didn't want a dog who toileted indoors for its entire life, so she reached out to me days after bringing that new puppy home. I quickly debunked what her breeder had told her.  What we did instead was begin with a pad on top of a piece of fake turf inside an xpen near the backdoor.  We gradually keep cutting that pad smaller and smaller until the puppy was toileting on the piece of fake turf religiously.  We then moved the xpen and fake turf just outside the backdoor and gradually moved it further and further from the house until it was out on the larger fake lawn.  As the puppy grew and could be safe in the larger yard, we removed the xpen but left the piece of fake turf in place.  The puppy continued to toilet there as he'd learned that was his bathroom.  We were then able to remove that smaller piece and he continued toileting in that spot regularly up until they made the recent move. 

Her new home has hardscape, stamped concrete winding paths, with a combination of ground cover and bark.  She tried getting him to toilet on any of those surfaces and he wouldn't go, choosing to hold it until she walked him, at which point he'd go on a neighbor's fake front lawn!  I reminded her that he's got a preference now for fake turf and she needs to accommodate that preference, rather than trying to retrain him to a surface he's never had experience with in the past.  Per my instructions, she bought him one of those turf kits with the tray underneath for ease of cleaning. She began with the fake grass inside of an xpen again, just outside her back door on the hardscape surface.  He immediately used the fake grass!  I told her to reward him just as she'd done when he was a puppy (a treat, a good boy verbal reward, and then some free time in the yard).  Over the course of a week, she gradually moved the pen further from the backdoor, toward the corner where she wanted him to toilet going forward.  He continued to use the fake grass in each new location.  So now, no more xpen and he's using his fake grass religiously, not her green bathroom rugs, kitchen floor, or the neighbor's fake lawn.  Yes, she does have to clean that fake grass porta potty for her dog, but it's a huge improvement over the way things had been going for the last four months. Problem solved, to my client's relief!

My wish is always that breeders won't solely rely on puppy pads for teaching toileting habits to puppies. By introducing multiple novel and appropriate surfaces for toileting, experienced breeders know that they will be setting their puppies up for success wherever they go and whatever bathroom area is provided for them in their new home. And if you, like my client move to a new home with a different toileting surface for your dog, know that you now have the tools to make this work right from the get go.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Here's ten week old Henley getting some free time on the grass after using the bathroom outside. He looks pretty happy about it as well.

The Zoomies!

I love watching dogs with the zoomies.  People always assume that zoomies are just something that puppies or young dogs do to blow off extra energy, but that's not entirely true.  Senior dogs get the zoomies too, they just look a bit different.  And zoomies are about much more than just blowing off steam.  They serve a purpose in reducing anxiety as well.  Let's explore zoomies a bit further!

First, the science.  The technical term for the zoomies is "Frenetic Random Activity Periods" or FRAP's, for short. They are characterized by sudden bursts of energy and manifest as spinning in place, darting around, or running in circles.  FRAP's generally last a few minutes, though the age of the dog will definitely affect the duration of a FRAP.  These frenetic bursts are completely normal dog behavior and can be about anything from excitement to happiness to a need to release some pent up stress or anxiety. Thus, a dog might get the zoomies when they see their best friend and want to initiate play (happiness FRAP), when their owner comes home (excitement FRAP), or following a bath (stress-relieving FRAP).  Puppies often engage in FRAP's in the evening because they are over-tired, over-stimulated, and in desperate need of quiet time and a nap.

Have you ever thought to yourself, "Gee, I should try to catch my dog before he hurts himself!" while he's doing the zoomies? Resist the urge.  Don't chase a dog with the zoomies, and if you think they might hurt themselves try to move objects out of the way rather than trying to curb their enthusiasm.  Interrupting a FRAP can cause more tension and frustration in a dog whose sole purpose for doing the behavior in the first place was to regulate their own nervous system.

If your dog engages in frequent bouts of FRAP's, it might be time to look at their daily routine.  Are they getting enough exercise?  Regularly scheduled walks and play times help reduce built up energy and release it appropriately.  Aim for two walks a day that involve a lot of sniffing and exploring.  If your dog likes to play fetch, that's great, but you can also use a flirt pole for exercise or set up a parkour course in your backyard with lawn furniture, soccer cones, and bricks or yoga blocks.  While addressing their physical exercise requirements is important, don't forget about mental exercise!  Those puzzles, snuffle mats, empty boxes, egg cartons, and lick mats all serve an important function in stimulating their brains to solve problems, reducing boredom and stress.

For puppies, definitely look at their nap schedule. First off, do they even have a nap schedule?  In addition to their physical exercise and mental stimulation needs, puppies must get an adequate amount of sleep every day for proper brain development.  My suggestion for puppy owners is to aim for four naps a day, each nap two hours in length, every single day.  These naps are in addition to their night time sleep and meant to be taken in a quiet room all by themselves, ideally in a crate, or a pen if your puppy isn't crate trained.  Why a quiet room? Because you want your puppy to reach REM sleep and deep sleep; puppies who cat-nap throughout the day wherever they happen to lay down are puppies who are never going to get any refreshing sleep during the daytime.  They will be sleep deprived, mouthy, and yes, prone to evening bouts of zoomies.

Now, it's true that I've met more than one dog over the years who engaged in excessively frequent episodes of FRAP's.  The bouts would occur multiple times a day, characterized by not just frenetic physical behavior, but high-pitched barking and whining as well. These dogs were clearly experiencing mental distress and extreme anxiety.  Treatment involved balancing basic exercise with mental stimulation, teaching calm behavioral alternatives (like chewing on a meaty bone in a comfy crate), a lower protein diet, and encouraged and enforced rest time (again, in a crate).  Most of these dogs also needed daily anti-anxiety medication long term in order to balance their brain chemistry and reduce the pressure they felt that was resulting in the FRAP's in the first place.

Henley rarely gets the zoomies, but when he does, it involves him zipping from one end of the yard to the other, at full speed, like a wrecking ball.  Luckily for my garden, these bouts are few and far between.  Ozzie actually gets them more often and always in response to Henley playing with a toy or Henley and Zelly roughhousing. He'll trot over and begin bouncing in circles, yipping happily to himself, near to where Henley is playing,  or the two younger dogs.  Henley will often respond with a woof and then offer Ozzie a toy. Zelly always bounces his way and bops him on the nose, stopping the circling behavior and resulting in a short chase around the room.  I love watching this all unfold as both Henley and Zelly are gentle with Ozzie, seemingly understanding that his advanced age and fragile physical status means that his brief FRAP's are about all he can muster, though he still wants to join in the fun.  So, Ozzie's zoomies are about happiness and excitement.  Good things to still have when you are an almost 11.5 year old dog.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

This is Westley post zoomies.  His zoomies always involved tight circles and always ended with ears back and a little, sassy bark.  I miss that goofy boy.

My Dog Can't Hold His Licker!

I'm sure you've heard it somewhere that the reason dogs lick you is that they are being submissive.  Or maybe you heard that they lick you because you have something on your skin that interests them. While it may be true that your dog licks you submissively, or that the fact that you just ate a peanut butter and jelly sandwich leads your dog to lick your hands and face, those simplistic answers don't tell the whole story.  As the devoted owner of a dog who can't hold his licker (that's you, Henley!), I'd like to talk a bit more in depth about dogs who lick their people.

First and foremost, licking is a bonding behavior.  Dogs lick each other, they will lick cats in their household, and yes, they lick us as we are family too.  This licking induces a sense of calm in your dog with the release of endorphins and oxytocin, "the love hormone" that accompanies the licking behavior. Licking promotes a sense of affiliation and belonging and is an instinctual behavior with deep roots in comfort.  Think of a mother dog licking her puppies to clean them, stimulate them to nurse or to defecate, those steady knowing licks by their mothers remain rooted in their brains enhancing their sense of well-being. They lick themselves and us much the same way, to calm, to soothe, to belong.

An often debated, but nonetheless important reason dogs lick is to promote healing, not just for themselves, but for each other and us as well. Dog saliva has some antibacterial properties due to the presence of enzymes such as lysozyme and proteins like histatins which can promote faster healing and prevent infection.  Now don't take this the wrong way. I'm not saying dog saliva is all you or they need for wound treatment and care. On the contrary, excessive licking can introduce harmful bacteria, which is why veterinarians encourage the use of cones, donuts, or surgisuits as a regular part of wound management for your dog.  Nonetheless, I have absolutely let my dogs lick a scrape on a hike as a preemptive form of wound care until I can get home and wash the wound with antiseptic.

Dogs licking people is by no means random or meaningless. The connection we have with dogs precedes our development of language.  Early humans relied on body language cues with each other and with the canids sharing their community. I'm certain that the licking behavior of these early canids enhanced our desire to form an affiliative bond with them as it deepened the connection and the sense of trust. 

So, licks aren't just kisses, they represent a more complex behavior than mere affection, though affection does play a part. Licking is a way for your dog to connect with you; they connect with their people through body language, smell, touch, and instinct. Thus, when they lick you, their owner, they are showing you affection AND communicating about your shared bond, which has history and an emotional component to it, as well as a biological connection.  Our bodies carry silent signals in our sweat and other bodily secretions.  Dogs can smell and taste not just the salt in our tears and sweat, but our stress, sadness, fear, and excitement.  Dogs are experts at sensing what's not said; we may be able to fool ourselves that we aren't stressed out by that looming deadline, but our dogs know differently. They can literally smell the apprehension and if your dog is a licker, like Henley, they will respond accordingly.

I've never had a collie that licked as much as Henley does. Honestly, other than a cattle dog we had years ago, Henley licks more than any other dog we've ever had.  Ozzie will lick me gently, usually on the nose or hand, but Henley will lick my hands, arms, legs, and face rhythmically and repeatedly.  We joke that he thinks we are filthy little puppies that need attention, but the truth of the matter is this:  When I watch Henley more closely his licking is tied to my behavior.  He loves to lick me post workout, but I'm certain that's about the sweat and endorphins coming off of me. In the evenings, he'll wait to be invited on the couch and then proceed to lick my arm or my leg just before he falls asleep.  Affiliative behavior at it's finest.  And if I'm upset or distressed, he'll trot over, drop a toy at my feet or in my lap and then lick my hands or my face until my mood changes. Interestingly enough, Henley doesn't lick people very often on therapy visits and those he does look suspiciously like they have food on them. He saves his licking behavior for family and friends.  I suppose that's a good thing since not everyone likes being licked by a dog, especially one they don't know!

For me, I don't mind the licking.  It used to bug me at first because it seemed so excessive, but now I realize that Henley's love language is touch. He'll drop a toy in your lap, boop your arm or hand to get you to scratch or rub him, and yep, he licks. I don't think I'd have him any other way.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Here's Henley draped across my legs on the couch happily licking my ankle. Considering the fact he weighs 75 lbs, this is also a weight training exercise for me!

The Makings Of A Successful Therapy Dog

I was recently asked about what it takes to be a good therapy dog.  The person asking has always been interested in pet therapy, but neither of her previous dogs ever seemed suitable; one didn't like strangers and the other was terrified of unexpected noises. Definitely not suited to pet therapy, but they were wonderful companions to her nonetheless. So, of course, you know, this just got me thinking.  If someone was trying to find the perfect dog for pet therapy work, what should they look for?  

First and foremost, you need a dog that loves meeting new people.  If your dog is fearful (or aggressive) toward strangers, then pet therapy isn't for you.  I've turned away many a prospective pet therapy volunteer whose dog was afraid when meeting me.  Dogs that back away from friendly new people or hide behind their owners, avoiding contact, just aren't going to warm to pet therapy.  In addition, dogs who shy away or hide from a new person will often elicit a response such as, "Oh...your dog doesn't like me!" We certainly never want someone to feel this way on a pet therapy visit!

While loving new people is great, they need to not be overly enthusiastic about it. Meaning successful pet therapy dogs show joy when meeting new people, but they don't jump up on them, paw for attention, bark for attention, or move too quickly.  The best pet therapy dogs I know amble or trot up to new people with a loose tail wag, and often a grin on their face as if to say, "Hi! Nice to meet you!" They position themselves for scratches and pats and wait to see if the human wants more.  If they do, the dog moves around and makes another pass at the person for attention and love.  Yes, dogs can be taught to approach people calmly without barking or jumping up, but it does take time. If your dog is already a mellow, people-lover, there is less you need to do on the front end in terms of training on this skill.

Your dog will also need to have really good on leash manners.  That means that they don't pull you, gasping for air as they go.  They should walk at your side, or slightly in front of you, but your arm should not be fully extended, nor should you have to ball up the leash to keep good control.  Therapy dogs should be able to walk nicely on leash with a flat collar, harness, or head halter; they shouldn't need choke chains or pinch collars for control. You will want to work with your dog to be able to pass by other pet therapy teams in tight spaces without the dogs tangling leashes or getting underfoot.

If you are getting a puppy to train for pet therapy work, start from the get-go!  Expose your puppy to friendly strangers even before you can let their feet touch the ground.  Take them in a pack, a stroller, or simply carry them in your arms to places where people congregate.  Encourage people to pet and engage your puppy and reward your puppy for accepting friendly strangers with interest and joy.  Pet therapy visits are chock full of new smells and new noises, so expose your puppies to busy situations that incorporate smells and sounds like hardware stores, department stores, playgrounds, and shopping malls.  You should also plan to start working on cooperative care exercises with your puppy so that handling at the vet is optimized, but also so that your puppy will be tolerant of handling (or perhaps a bit of mishandling) on their therapy visits.  Therapy dogs need to tolerate having their feet, ears, noses, and tails touched, fur rubbed the wrong way, and an occasional tail pull.  Especially if you want to work with patients in memory support, having your pet therapy dog tolerate all forms of handling is a must.

It's important for pet therapy dogs to not be afraid of medical equipment.  Take your dog outside hospitals or nursing homes and work with them around folks in wheelchairs or using walkers and canes.  You can also take your dog to areas frequented by people pushing strollers or shopping carts.  Get your prospective therapy dogs used to wheeled contraptions that have people attached to them.

While it isn't talked about frequently, it is just as important to train your prospective pet therapy dog to leave items they see, smell, or find on the ground.  And if they do pick something up, to drop it for you when asked.  It doesn't happen a lot on therapy visits, but it happens enough that I've always taught my dogs from the time they were puppies to leave it and drop it on command.  That way, if there is medicine on the floor, a needle, or a latex glove, for example, your dog will know to leave it alone when asked, not to mention leaving any food crumbs they find on the floor behind as well.

Lastly, I think that the best pet therapy dogs can tolerate being around other dogs without becoming scared, agitated, or overly enthusiastic. I'm not saying your dog has to love other dogs to do pet therapy; on the contrary, I'm saying they just need to be able to work in proximity to other pets to be successful.  I actually prefer dogs who are kind of aloof or indifferent with other dogs on leash because I know that they are always going to choose to interact with the people rather than with the other dogs on a pet therapy visit.

This is, by no means, an exhaustive list of what I look for in a potential therapy dog, but it's a good start.  Breed of the dog, age, sex, etc. are less important to me; a young, intact male, pit bull can still be an amazing pet therapy dog, for example.  And, yes, I've met Golden Retrievers and Labradors that weren't suitable, at least not until they matured past the stage where they were no longer body slamming everyone they meet, stepping on feet and jumping up for attention.  They'll likely be great pet therapy dogs someday, once they've grown up a bit and settled down, so never give up hope!

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Desi was a natural at pet therapy.  He would amble toward people, big smile on his face and tail wagging.  He would put his sweet, soft face on their lap or in their hand.  He never jumped up, pawed, or barked for attention, but would wait patiently for his turn.  He could spot someone who needed him a mile away.  Agitated dementia patients didn't scare him, neither did crying babies, or fire alarms going off.  He was a rock through it all, offering unconditional love and soft collie fluff to bury your hands or face in if you needed to.  I miss him every single day.

The Domestication of Trash Pandas

Recently, my daughter's best friend sent me an NPR video about how raccoons could be the next animal domesticated by humans.  She knew I'd have thoughts on this as she knows I worked with raccoons years ago at the San Diego Wild Animal Park when I was a wild animal trainer for the "Rare & Wild America" show. She's heard my stories about these rascals stealing hair ties and barrettes, unzipping zippers, and frisking you anytime you tried to work around them.  Raccoons are smart, cagey, defiant, and deceptively cute.  Raccoons can also be aggressive and scary, something all the folks posting adorable videos of "trash pandas" seem to forget.  These are still wild animals and raccoons remain the most frequently reported rabid animal in the United States.  Raccoons are not to be trifled with by the inexperienced looking for a photo op on Instagram.  Nonetheless, I watched the video she sent me and I'd like to add my two cents worth.  If you missed the video, here's the link to the story:  https://www.npr.org/2025/12/22/nx-s1-5637566/pet-raccoon-science-history-future

A researcher in Arkansas hypothesized that raccoons are undergoing "self-domestication" in urban areas because she believes that urbanization kick-starts the domestication process.  Whether it's the domestication of dogs, cats, or cows, the process of domestication results in physical changes for the animals undergoing domestication.  Humans select animals who possess the traits that they prefer.  In dogs, for example, we selected for friendlier individuals, choosing to invest our time and resources in pups that weren't afraid of us and were able to work alongside us.  One physical trait associated with domestication is a shrinking/shortening of the nose (someone really should have told collies about that fact, but I digress). The author of the study stated that researchers weren't sure why smaller snouts are associated with domestication, but that's not entirely true.  We do know why noses get smaller.  It's all about selecting for traits that make animals "cuter" or more baby-like.  Button noses are cute, whether they are on a human baby or a kitten. There is a name for this biological process whereby animals retain juvenile characteristics into adulthood and it is neoteny.

Neoteny can be seen everyday.  Those tiny little features on the face of a human infant help bond them to their mother and other caregivers.  Those same tiny features are seen in the faces of kittens and puppies too and we've selected for those same features to be carried on into our adult cats and dogs.  Cats are developing larger foreheads, dogs are getting shorter noses and bigger eyes, characteristics seen in juvenile animals of any species. It's all about what humans select for and we have a tendency to select those individual animals that look like babies we can care for.

Okay, back to the raccoon study.  The researchers in this study looked at thousands of photographs of raccoons living in rural and wild areas and compared their snout size/length to photos of urban raccoons.  What did they find?  They found smaller snouts on the urban living raccoons, a sure sign that domestication is happening. From this they concluded that perhaps one day, raccoons might be kept as pets, much like dogs and cats are now.

All I know is this:  Raccoons have a long way to go before I'd ever consider one as a pet.  I do know wildlife rehab folks who care for injured, abandoned, and neglected wild animals.  Some are released back into the wild while others must live out their lives in various levels of confinement due to permanent injuries, loss of limbs, or other disabilities.  The best wildlife rehab people build beautiful enclosures that give these animals a wonderful life, safe from predators, including cars. These animals are allowed to be animals, though they often become acclimated to their human caretakers, interacting with them and other species of animals, much like the animals I worked with years ago at the Wild Animal Park.  It makes for entertaining videos and a good way to learn about wildlife.  Here's one of my favorite wildlife rehab folks (she does have raccoons, as well as foxes, and opossums, and a skunk):  https://www.instagram.com/juniperfoxx/

Anyone out there ever had a wild animal as a pet?  I've met folks who had wolves, ferrets, and yes,  raccoons.  Would love if you shared your stories with all of us.  

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Here's one of my favorite pictures from my Wild Animal Park days.  This is my friend, Michele, and me with Ralph and Betty, our raccoons.  These animals, along with a fox, wolf, a couple black bears, lynx, bobcat, and three opossums, just to name a few, were the animals we trained and cared for.  You'll notice no dangly earrings (Ralph and Betty would have stolen them), and Betty has a hold on one of Michele's buttons.  She was bravely wearing a watch!

Something To Talk About

Do you talk to your dog in full sentences?  Do you tell them all about your day, asking them questions about theirs as well?  You're not alone.  While I think we all realize that our dogs can't answer us back (though we often fill in the conversational blanks for them, right?), we continue to converse with them on and off all day long.  You do this, I do this, and a large proportion of dog owners around the world do it too.  Seems there is actually something to this, according to science.

When we carry on our one-sided conversations with our dogs, it triggers the same activity in our brains as conversations with other humans do. Meaning, our brains process those Q & A sessions with our dogs as real conversations. These verbal interactions with our dogs are a form of social bonding akin to having a conversation with another human being. For folks like me who live alone, these conversations are actually life-affirming.  Studies show a 31% decreased rate of depression for those who lived alone with dogs versus those who lived alone without them.  This doesn't mean that dogs are a substitute for human contact, but rather amazingly that they are the same as far as our brain is concerned.  When you talk to your dogs, even though they don't talk back, your brain believes you've made a real social connection, building those neural pathways.  Studies have demonstrated that when we talk to our dogs in full sentences, our bodies experience an increase in oxytocin (the "love hormone") and a decrease in cortisol (the "stress hormone").  Our dogs don't have to talk back to us; their eye contact, proximity to us, attentive behavior, and active listening register as real social engagement to our nervous system.

Dog owners living alone often get teased for having conversations with their dogs.  They are told how silly it looks when clearly dogs don't talk back. But here's the thing:  Dogs do communicate with us and their attentiveness and desire to interact with us is the way they do it.  Ask any dog owner and they'll tell you:  Dogs communicate very clearly with us through body language cues.  If it's dinner time and you've not made your way to the kitchen, they'll try to lead you there. And if you ask them if it's time or if they are hungry, their response is quite clearly yes, via a game of canine charades! I often find my conversations with my dogs more rewarding than some of my social interactions with other people during the day, and I don't believe that's just me.  Dogs don't judge the way so many people we encounter do.  

So, just keep chatting away with your dogs.  They appreciate when you do and your brain and body are reaping all kinds of long term health benefits. Just because you want to stay home and hang out with your dog doesn't make you anti-social. On the contrary, you're engaging in equivalent social bonding with your canine companions. And you can quote me on that.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me. I'll be here, talking to my dogs.

Nobody listens better than Henley.  He follows me around, hanging on my every word.  If I'm working and not talking to anyone, he'll come over, nose me, and look me straight in the eye as he's doing in this photo. Just look at that eye contact and attentive listening.  No, I don't have treats in my hand.  This is just a sweet dog engaged in social bonding with his human.

Puppy Love

I've got four clients right now who are preparing for the arrival of spring or early summer puppies.  They've put down their deposits with the breeders they've chosen and are anxiously awaiting the arrival of their newest canine family members. I worked with each of them on the process as these four clients are unique:  They all worked with me with a previous dog who had serious behavior problems rooted in anxiety and aggression.  Each wanted to avoid ever having to go through that again, if they could help it.  They told me how helpful they felt it was for me to break down the process for them, giving them guidelines for choosing a breeder, and then, for choosing their puppy. Because of that, I figured it was time to share that same information here, just in case you are gearing up for puppy fever too.

First, you certainly don't have to work with a breeder to acquire a puppy. I will say, however, that working with a reputable, knowledgeable breeder or fancier can make the puppy selection process a bit more reliable.  When you instead choose to acquire a puppy at a shelter, rescue, or an online marketplace (e.g. Craig's List or a puppy broker), you are going to have a harder time getting any of the background information that you need on the dam and sire (i.e. the puppy's mom and dad), especially with regard to their physical and mental health.  You also won't be able to check references and talk to other people who acquired a puppy from this same person.  You will have to rely on the limited experiences noted by the shelter, foster, or Craig's List seller. And if you are using a puppy broker, you will find that the information you are given is even more limited because these folks just move puppies between puppy mills and prospective pet owners, despite their frequent protestations to the contrary. 

How do you even find a reputable breeder?  Sure, you can go on the AKC's website and research breeders, but remember that just being on that website doesn't insure that the puppies produced by that breeder are going to meet your needs.  Instead, I encourage prospective puppy owners to talk to breeders in person at dog shows where you can see them with their dogs and then interact with them online via social media.  So many breeders use Facebook and Instagram to show off their puppies, dogs, show results, and breeding programs.  Interacting with them and their followers who are often previous or current owners of their dogs, allows you to see, follow, and ask questions of real owners of the breed (and breeder) you are interested in. Look for lots of transparency on their breeding program.

Let's get one thing straight:  All puppies are cute.  No question about that.  So, you need to coach yourself to look beyond the cute and really analyze the way the puppies you are following on a breeder's account are being raised.  Even before the puppies are born, you want to look at the dam and sire and see how they themselves are being raised and engaged. Are they always shown running around outside in a pen with a bunch of other dogs, or are they also shown camped out in the kitchen or on a bed, sofa, or someone's lap?  Are they only shown at dog shows, or are they also shown running agility, competing in flyball, or doing nosework? How many litters has the breeder produced?  How often are they breeding their dog(s)?  All of this is just as important to the puppy choosing process. You want your puppy's parents to have been cherished members of your breeder's family, not money-making, puppy-producing machines.  You want to feel comfortable knowing that your puppy's mama was fed properly while pregnant, protected from stress and strain, and regularly evaluated by a veterinary professional. Puppies born to stressed out moms come into this world already challenged behaviorally.  Puppies born to well-adjusted, happy,  and physically sound mothers come into this world with brains that are pliable and open, not already challenged with stress hormones.

Once you've found a breeder that you are comfortable with, and you like the way that they raise and care for their adult dogs, it's time for you to look at the way that they prepare their puppies to go to their new homes. I seek out breeders who use the "Puppy Culture" approach to raising puppies.  This approach focuses on the science behind socialization and training. It fosters emotional resiliency and brain development.  It encourages puppies to reach their full potential from birth to 12 weeks of age through appropriate behavioral challenges and physical challenges.  Even newborn puppies should be handled, stimulated, and exposed to new experiences. This program also includes exercises that prepare puppies for house training, crate training, and checks for resource guarding. Puppies who complete Puppy Culture programs are inquisitive, resilient, and well-prepared for that move from their breeder's home to yours. You really do need to critically expand the way you think about puppy raising beyond just "my puppy was lovingly raised in the breeder's home" to "my puppy was raised to be confident, curious, and successful in their loving breeder's home."

Finally, when you get to the point where you are going to the breeder's home to choose your puppy (and, yes, I think you need to go to their home and choose your puppy), you will likely be one of several people there to pick out their next canine family member. Breeders often have their list of prospective puppy owners, those in line for female puppies, those in line for male puppies, and/or those in line for either sex, but with more concerns about coat color, for example, or temperament. I'm always going to advise you not to choose your puppy based on their coat color or sex, but rather to look at their temperament and the way they engage you when you meet them.  And if you want to do a bit of temperament testing of those puppies on your own, especially if your breeder doesn't use the Puppy Culture program, then please revisit one of my previous blog posts on the subject of temperament testing for prospective puppy owners here:

https://juliebondanimalbehaviorist.blogspot.com/2021/06/pick-of-litter.html

While I'm not currently in the market for a new puppy myself, I am closely following a litter of collies that is due this month.  The dam and sire of this litter are actually Zelly's parents, so these pups will be full siblings to my daughter's sweet, adolescent collie. I can't wait to see these puppies develop and watch them thrive in those first weeks under the watchful eye of my friend and her pack of sweet, well-adjusted adult collies, including Zelly's grandmother.  If I'm lucky, I'll get a chance to visit with my friend before these puppies go off to their new homes.  That puppy fix should last me until I'm ready for my next collie puppy of my own, right?

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Here's baby Henley in a photo sent to me by his breeder.  He looks pretty comfortable and content on that dog bed. Henley was the last puppy to go home because I needed get all of my ducks in a row to drive up to Washington state to pick him up.  Ozzie and Westley made that road trip with my daughter and me and it is a trip filled with a lot of fond memories.

Quality Over Quantity

Earlier this week, I had the pleasure of guest lecturing to a group of young adults in a college introductory psychology course.  Their instructor is someone whose pet I treated right before the pandemic.  At that time, she asked me if I ever did guest lectures, and if so, would I speak to one of her intro psych classes.  I told her I did and would love to, but then I didn't hear from her, not really a surprise given the changes to education that occurred during the COVID-19 shutdown.  Fast forward to this year and the request to come engage with her students this semester!  She told me that she had three copies of my book in her office and several of the students in her class actually borrowed the books from her to get a better idea of who I was and maybe formulate some questions for me after my presentation on animal learning theory.  I was even more excited to hear what kinds of questions they came up with after reading my memoir.

There were about 75 students in the class, but an additional 30 heard about the lecture and asked to sit in as well which meant a lecture hall for my presentation, instead of a classroom.  I actually got butterflies in my stomach as I've not stood at the front of a lecture hall in over thirty years!  Classrooms yes, big lecture halls?  That was a flashback experience for sure. I really enjoy talking about how animals learn, so once I got started, the butterflies disappeared and we were off and and running.

When I took my first animal learning course at UC Davis back in the 1980's, it was primarily a historical perspective class, with a very dry textbook that covered all of the pioneers in learning theory (think Thorndike, Pavlov, and Skinner). Now when I talk about animal learning, I like to present the topic from a "look how far we've come" perspective.  For me, the joy comes in introducing students to the new pioneers in the field like Alexandra Horowitz, James Serpell, Clive Wynne, and Zazie Todd.  I brought books by these authors just so the students could peruse them and perhaps make notes on ones to get for themselves. 

For a lot of intro to psych students, a guest lecture like mine will be their one and only foray into the world of animal behavior.  Most of the students taking the class are there for units outside of their major, or because they have an interest in human psychology, or because they thought the class would be easy!  By the end of the class, I felt like there was at least a handful of students who could see there was so much more to the world of psychology than they'd thought when they walked into that lecture hall.  

Even more than my lecture, I really enjoyed the questions when I was through.  They ran the gamut from philosophical (why choose a field like this instead of being a veterinarian or professor) to practical (how can you treat the animal mind when they can't really tell you what they are feeling). I could tell the kids who'd read my book because they shared knowing looks when those questions were asked.  I did have a favorite question, however, and it's one that took me by surprise.  I asked the student after class if I could share her question with all of you and she was quite pleased to be asked, immediately saying yes!

Her question was actually quite personal.  She really wants a dog as she's just moved into an apartment that allows pets. Her concern was that, as a student, she didn't have the resources to care for a dog "the way they should be cared for."  I asked her to elaborate, thinking she was going to point to limited funds for veterinary care; I was wrong.  She was afraid that because she couldn't buy expensive dog food, dog beds, and dog toys like she saw other dog owners doing all over social media, that she shouldn't have a dog.  She made sure I knew that she could afford veterinary care because her parents would help her with that as long as she kept up her grades and worked part-time. I was impressed as I could tell she'd thought about this quite a bit.  Here's what I told her:  Quality over quantity.  Dogs don't need expensive dog food, dog beds, or a million toys.  Some dogs don't even play with toys!  My first dog, Shadow, slept on a folded blanket, up against a corduroy study pillow, covered in a fitted sheet that I could wash to keep the "dog bed" clean for her.  She didn't play with toys much, but would occasionally play with an old tennis ball or squeaky toy handed down from a friend's dog.  As for food, she ate out of one of my bowls and what I could afford:  Purina from the grocery store. Was she a happy dog?  Yes.  Not because she had all of the most expensive things, but because I paid attention to her.  I made her puzzles out of boxes from the recycle bin. I walked her. I brushed her. I took her with me everywhere I could.  Quality over quantity. My dogs now are quite spoiled by comparison. Do I think they are any happier or any better off than Shadow?  Absolutely not.  Dogs are happy with whatever we give them. They are content to have us, whatever that looks like.  It's what makes them such ideal companions.  They don't judge us by our pocketbooks or bottom lines.  They want our love most of all and giving love to a dog is something we all can afford to do.

She seemed relieved by my answer and wanted to know a bit more about building her own puzzles, so she walked with me to my car and we talked a bit more about that.  I hope she sends me a picture of the dog she finds for herself.  I think that's going to be one lucky dog.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Shadow wearing the bandana we found at a flea market for 50 cents. It was her favorite. She had quite the collection by the time she crossed the rainbow bridge because people always gave them to her.  She'd take them gently when you handed them to her and we'd put them in a basket by her bed. She wore a bandana every day she lived with me, choosing one for herself in the morning.  They were like a security blanket for her. She'd pull them up into her mouth and nibble at them if she was anxious, an interesting behavior I discovered when I gave her her first bandana, a dark blue one we'd found in a parking lot on our first day together. I still have her bandana collection. I've never had another dog who enjoyed wearing them the way that she did.

All My Friends Are Dogs...

Not really, though I do spend a lot of time with dogs and I definitely consider many of them to be my friends.  I do, however, still have human friends and human family members that I choose to spend time with, making me fortunate for sure. The importance of dogs in people's lives has changed quite a bit over the years.  Right now, half of all households here in the U.S. have a dog and 51% of those households say that their dog is just as much a family member as the humans are.  I most certainly fall into that 51% as I, too, believe that my dogs are beloved family members.  They are included in family activities and their comfort and enjoyment are considered when looking at everything from which coffee shop to frequent, to the hike we choose to take, and where we vacation.

Back in 2020, Mark Cushing wrote a book called "Pet Nation" which I found as fascinating as it was sobering. He proposed that the rise of the internet led to people being more profoundly lonely, thus pushing them to focus their attention more intensely on their pets, forcing those pets to fill roles previously held by other humans. I, myself, think that the pandemic lockdown is what really led to people loving their dogs so intensely; I believe that the pandemic and the way the government treated the populace during this period in our history, is what led to our disinterest with society as a whole and our distrust of other people.  We weren't so much lonely as we were disenchanted.

So, is our obsession with our dogs a displacement behavior on our part, a way of showing our discontent with other humans and society in general?  Personally, I believe that our relationship with our pets is often more rewarding than our relationships with other people.  I see this all the time with my clients: They tell me that they love their pet despite his/her (fill in the blank behavior problem) because said pet is less judgy, more supportive, and more unconditionally loving than the people in their lives.  This is actually born out by a 2025 study that found that people rated their pets as more supportive than the humans in their lives.  But is this putting too much pressure on our pets to fill our social needs?  Are we forcing them to try to fix problems that are simply beyond their capabilities?  Is that the real reason for the increase in pet behavior problems?

As our trust in other humans has declined, we avoid conversations with strangers and colleagues alike, fearing that they will go poorly, as we expect the worst, and this has put pressure on our pets to fill that void. We are all spending more time at home; we have streaming platforms for entertainment, no need to go to the movies. We can order food and groceries to be delivered, so no need to go out at all, especially if we work from home. And who's there with us?  Our pets. While it is certainly true that dog ownership can reduce some social pressures and help fight monotony in our daily lives as they encourage us to get up, get out, and get some exercise and fresh air, us expecting them to do so can actually hurt dogs.  Dogs who don't leave the house much because their humans are off at work, often suffer from boredom-related behavior problems.  Some of them are forced to be physically uncomfortable during the days when their humans are off at work and they can't get outside to relieve themselves or stretch their legs. I'm not saying this to make working pet owners feel guilty; I'm saying this so we all see the dark side to keeping our pets confined to our homes, anxiously awaiting our return, solely for our enjoyment.

Perhaps it's time we all rethink family life, work life, and you know what?  Society as a whole.  We need to make resources for quality of life more accessible to all.  I don't want a return to the 1950's.  On the contrary, the people I know who lived during that time period don't think it was all that great for the average American.  Rather, I think we need to make our future about supporting one another, developing meaningful and rewarding human relationships built on trust and mutual respect.  Those mutually beneficial human relationships free from judgment and characterized by unconditional love would take a lot of pressure off of our pets, allowing them to thrive too.  All I know is that we need to do something before the world as we know it is beyond repair and unsafe for anyone, including our beloved dogs.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Our current canine family members. 

How Many Dogs Is Too Many?

When I was a kid, I wanted a dog so badly that I badgered my parents daily (not kidding) until they finally relented when I was seven years old. Figuring I was on a roll, I did ask for a second dog and my parents shot that down emphatically, saying that when I was a grownup I could have “as many dogs as I wanted.” I took them at their word and got my first dog all of my own while still in college and just kept adding from there. That first dog was the gateway drug, so to speak, to a life devoted to dogs, my own and other people's.

I've had as few as just one dog, and as many as four dogs, at a time in my home. We had four dogs when the kids were little and I probably should have had my head examined to have that many creatures depending on me for their care and keeping, LOL. For me, the sweet spot is two to three dogs, with one being a senior. Seniors seem to be rejuvenated with the activity and antics of younger dogs and having two younger dogs means having someone to play with when the human (invariably) is busy working or tending to the senior dog. I have friends with four or more dogs and I'm amazed at how not chaotic their homes are. I'm pretty sure that having four or more dogs would be chaos for me, but that's the point. Only you can decide how many dogs is right for you. Beyond the obvious pathology of people who hoard dogs (or cats), having a lot of animals to care for is a personal choice. You are the only person who knows what your capacity is for their care and keeping; the health and welfare of a lot of animals isn't cheap, that's for sure. But there is some science to support that less may be more. You knew I was going to bring in science, right?

Whether you will have harmony in your multi-dog home or chaos really depends on a couple of factors. The most important being, how sociable are your dogs? While dogs as a species are sociable, there are individual differences in that sociability. Some dogs are total social butterflies, flitting from dog to dog at the dog park or dog daycare, making new friends right and left. At the other end of the spectrum are dogs who are afraid or behave aggressively when they encounter another dog, whether that other dog is encountered on a walk, or at home. Then, of course, there are all of the dogs in between, those that enjoy the company of other dogs, but can self-regulate, moving away from interactions when they need a break. I think the best dogs to have in a multi-dog household are those dogs in between social butterfly and complete introvert. Basically, dogs who like other dogs, know how to share resources, and are able to set up good boundaries when they need space or time to themselves. And science does support this. Dogs who have social anxiety or who suffer from issues in aggression do not thrive in multi-dog households; they do better in homes where they are the only dog.

Don't get me wrong. Even in homes where the dogs do all get along with each other most of the time, there will still be skirmishes, small tiffs, and hurt feelings. That's normal. We don't always see eye to eye with our human family members either. My kids sure showed me what that looked like. As an only child whose sole “sibling” was that dog mentioned above, my kids had each other, for better or for worse. They got along for the most part, but every one in a while the fur would fly, demonstrating that siblings do have each other to wallop on as well. The same goes for dogs in multi-dog homes. They will, on occasion, growl, bark, snap, or even grab a canine housemate they think needs correcting. Oftentimes, this will be an older dog correcting a younger dog or puppy, but you will also see confrontations between similarly aged dogs. Oftentimes, these confrontations are over resources. Who is on the dog bed, and who wants that spot. Who has the bone, chew, or toy. Who is currently being petted by the human, and so on. Expect some grumbling in a multi-dog household and don't insert yourself in the drama; let your dogs sort it out on their own. If we insert ourselves too much, we end up causing more problems than we fix. My rule of thumb is no blood drawn, no one getting hurt? Let them solve it themselves. If it gets loud and doesn't seem to be resolving quickly, I might see if I can redirect them, or tell them to take it outside, at which point my dogs seem happy to move on. I know that's not the case in every home, but I'm grateful that it works in mine.

It's also important to remember that our own behavior affects the behavior we see in our dogs. For example, if you are petting one of your dogs and another approaches for attention too, resist the urge to pet them both. Just because you have two hands doesn't mean you should split your attention! Keep petting that first dog and don't allow another to usurp that attention. When you are done petting that first one, move on to whoever you want to pet next. It should never be the case that the pushiest, most obnoxious attention hog gets all of the attention. Make them wait. Tell them to sit or go lay down. Honestly...make them wait their turn. This takes the pressure off of the other dogs as they see that you have the dynamic under control, no need to snap at the dog trying to shove their way in when the human has the situation covered.

I think one of the hardest things to do is to make sure you are spending enough one-on-one time with each of your dogs in a multi-dog home. Yes, it's quality over quantity, but there are only so many hours in the day and you do need time for yourself as well. I walk my dogs together most days as that's what I have time for. I do wish I could walk each of them separately for the simple reason that when I do, they seem so happy to have been on a solo walk with me. So how do I give them one-on-one time? Well, Ozzie needs to do multiple sessions a day on his t-PEMF mat for his spine and joints. When he's on his mat, I put up a gate to that room so that Henley (and Zelly, if she's visiting) can see what we are doing, but have to remain at a distance. This allows Ozzie to fully relax on the mat, gaining all of the benefits t-PEMF therapy has to offer. I sit on the floor next to him so that he knows I'm there; I remind him by petting him gently. This is our quiet time together and I think he looks forward to it at much as I do. Henley is an active dog. His joy comes from playing games and learning new things, so I play fetch with him and tug-of-war, his two favorite games. I also work with him every day on tricks he knows and new ones I think up. He loves this. We do this when Ozzie is outside resting in the yard or sound asleep in another room. If Zelly is visiting, I put her in her crate with a bone or chew where she can watch and keep busy, but not insert herself. And when Zelly is here with me, she gets one-on-one time as well. I'll crate Henley with a bone, put Ozzie outside with his chew, and then work with her on tricks and new behaviors with a focus on teaching her self-control and calm execution of tasks. Ideal activities for a busy adolescent collie!

Now, you've probably figured out why I set a limit of less is more for myself when it comes to dog ownership! I just don't have enough hours in the day for more than this. At least not right now. I'm leaving my options open though. My parents did say I could have as many dogs as I wanted when I was a grownup. I figure I'll be a grownup soon.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Perfectly content, resting together, side by side.  Ozzie prefers the cool, tile floor most of the time. If he wanted that dog bed, however, Henley would readily give it up.  We have dog beds in every room and Henley will use them all. He'll only grumble about giving up his spot on a bed if it's Zelly demanding it by pouncing on him when he just got comfy!

Revisiting Resource Guarding One More Time

In the last two weeks, I have seen six puppies under five months of age demonstrating resource guarding aggression toward their human family members.  While I have certainly seen quite a few resource guarding puppies over the years, to see so many in such a short period of time was a real red flag for me.  What is going on? Interestingly enough, every one of these puppies was a doodle of some kind.  I went back and did a broad search of my files and found that over the last ten years, the most common behavior problem I've treated in doodles has been resource guarding and/or resource guarding aggression. Interesting and unfortunate given the plethora of doodles that are out there in families right now. Regardless of this though, what could I suggest these puppy owners do to make things a bit safer in their homes? 

First and foremost, I needed to assess each home environment to determine if management was even possible.  All but one of these puppies belonged to a family with children under ten years of age. Typically, dealing with dogs who resource guard in home with children is difficult.  Kids are kids and they may not even recognize when a dog is resource guarding something until it is too late.  Even in homes where the family members know what to do when their dog is resource guarding, it may be the case that visitors or friends are caught unawares with catastrophic consequences. 

We've talked about this before:  Resource guarding per se isn't a bad thing.  We all resource guard our homes and cars by locking them up, adding alarms and cameras, and reporting any suspicious activity in our neighborhoods.  Now, I'm not saying you are going to escalate to biting an intruder on your property, but your resource guarding dog might!  And what if it's not an intruder but your daughter's boyfriend sneaking around outside of your house?  You get my drift.  How far your dog is willing to take their resource guarding is the question to be answered honestly.

Dogs are natural territorial guardians and protectors.  They are vigilant and watchful, noting changes that we might otherwise miss.  Some not only protect their home turf, but they protect the people there as well.  Others take it further, protecting their toys, beds, chews, bones, or food bowl.  Some even protect the spot where they are sitting or laying down, no bed required. It's one thing for a dog to defend their territory or favorite chew or toy from another dog, and it's quite another for them to defend those things from you, their beloved human family members. 

It's important to test for resource guarding behavior often and early with puppies.  Breeders can test for it by observing their litters of puppies for signs of resource guarding behavior between siblings and note how issues are settled between the pups.  If one puppy has a chew, for example, and a sibling approaches to try and take it, the interaction could go one of several ways. First, the puppy could give up what they have to their sibling.  They could hold onto it tightly, turning away or trying to move away with it.  They could stiffen over their prize and growl at their sibling to back off.  They could snap or bite at their sibling to discourage them as well.  Each of these possible outcomes says a lot about the puppy with the chew. Same goes for observing puppies around communal food and water bowls, beds, and when picked up or handled while resting. 

Even if your breeder did all of these things, you still have work to do when you bring your puppy home! Now that they will be living and learning without their siblings, it's up to you to continue to test for resource guarding.  The most common exercises that puppy owners are exposed to are those that test for resource guarding aggression around the food bowl.  Let's review that first.

Start with an empty bowl and give that to your puppy.  When they look up at you like, "What gives?! This bowl is empty!" add in about 1/8 cup of food (basically a small handful).  Give them a brief pat.  As long as they don't stiffen, growl, etc., you can add more food.  Pet them some more.  Still no stiffness or aggression? Rain some pennies from heaven, aka drop some yummy treats from above their head into the bowl.  Over the course of a week's worth of meals, add in more hovering, more petting, etc. just to make sure they aren't guardy or defensive around their food or the food bowl. If you notice any stiffening, growling, or worse, seek help before continuing!  Do not let your children practice these exercises unless you are certain your puppy does not resource guard their food or the bowl.  And, of course, supervise your children doing the food bowl exercises. 

Next, you will want to test guarding of bones, chews, toys, etc.  Each time you give your puppy a new chew, bone, or toy, hold onto it.  Let them sniff it and sample it, but don't just give it to them.  Ask them to sit.  Offer it for a bit more chewing or investigation.  Let them get a grip on it and then ask them to drop it, or simply trade with you for a high value treat.  If they will happily chew on it while you hold it and they'll trade for the goodies you have, go ahead and give them the new item.  Do this every time you introduce a new toy or chew just to make sure you haven't inadvertently brought an item into your home that your puppy deems so valuable that they will guard and aggressively defend it.

I want to note something here.  I realize that this seems like a lot of work, but for anyone who has ever dealt with a resource guarding puppy or dog, knowing what that dog will guard and what they won't is critical.  Knowing this information helps you, the owner, to make smart choices with regard to what you give your puppy or dog and where you give it to them.  Some dogs that resource guard can only have valuable items when in their crate, for example.  This keeps everyone safe.  And if your puppy or dog hoards an item, not chewing on it or eating it (if it's edible), then perhaps it's wise to remove that item from the list of things that they are even allowed to have. I've known many a dog who can't have bullysticks or bones because they hoarded them and would aggressively guard them, but never ate or chewed on them.

In every home, but especially those with kids, you'll want to test to see if your puppy is guardy with their beds, crates, or spot on the furniture, if you let them up there.  If they are guardy on the furniture, they shouldn't be allowed up there, period. If they guard their bed, put the bed inside an x-pen so that you can better control that defensible area.  If they guard their crate, put the crate in a lower traffic area to decrease the drama around the crate itself.

While it is possible to live with a resource guarding puppy or dog for the entirety of their lives, it isn't always easy and it isn't without some risk.  Each person or family needs to determine for themselves if they are capable of safely managing a resource guarding dog or not.  And if the answer is that they aren't, or they don't want to as that's not what they signed up for when they got the dog, then return them to the breeder, rescue group, etc. Resource guarding aggression isn't a curable problem but it can be manageable.  You just have to the find the right match for the puppy or dog.

Finally, even if your puppy doesn't resource guard, teach them to trade items they have for food; teach them drop it when they pick something up, even if it's theirs, and give them a treat for their compliance; and teach leave it so (hopefully) you can call them off of or away from things you don't want picked up at all.  These are all skills your dog will use for a lifetime.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

Here are Henley and Zelly sharing a new Nylabone.  You can see that there is a second new bone next to Zelly, but she wants to the one Henley has, of course.  They will both chew on that one, at the same time, until someone bores of that game and grabs the other one. This goes on anytime I bring in new toys or chews.  They all want the same one, but they'll share whatever they've got.  

My Puppy Is Driving Me Crazy!

That's literally the message a new client left in my voicemail.  When I called her back, I could hear a puppy yapping away in the background of our call.  Apparently he does that anytime she doesn't pay attention to him.  He also hates the leash, hates the harness, won't go into his crate willingly, cries if she leaves the room for two minutes, and won't let her bathe him (he stepped in his own poop, then laid in it, requiring a bath which ended up in a bath for the owner too!). She indicated that she didn't even try to trim his nails.  She half-jokingly told me she'd leave all future baths, nail trims, etc. to a groomer to "deal with him." Clearly, time for an intervention!

Just because they are puppies doesn't mean that they will automatically comply with everything you want them to do.  In fact, puppies often need a bit of extra time to find their own way around anything new, particularly anything that they think might be scary. Even when handed a new toy or new bone, a puppy may gladly take the item, then drop it and sniff it, before picking it up again and trying it out. I can safely say that I've never met a puppy who loved a collar, harness, or leash the first time they were introduced.  Henley tried to alligator roll his way out of his harness the first time he actually wore it and acted as if the leash attached to it was cramping his style.  Collars, harnesses, and leashes are used for safety reasons by us, but feel unnatural to a puppy; they limit their mobility and exploration.  You have to introduce them slowly, pairing with good stuff like food and toys they love.  Because collars and harnesses need to be fitted properly, requiring that you take them on and off several times, I like to use a lick mat with either baby food or canned puppy food on it.  I use a lick mat that suctions to a metal surface and attach it to my fridge or dishwasher at head height and encourage licking it while I work through the process of fitting the collar or harness to a wiggly puppy.  When it comes time for the leash, I always use an old, inexpensive one that I don't mind the puppy chewing on since I let them drag it around the house, attached to their collar or harness, while I supervise by tossing treats for them to find.  By letting them drag the leash, they learn that leashes aren't as limiting as they first thought.  Once they will freely drag a leash around, I pick it up and follow them wherever they go so there's very little tension on that leash.  Then, I move on to using treats to lure them to walk near me indoors long before we move outside.  Yes, it's tedious but it allows the puppy to be an active participant in their own training.  

The same goes for training a puppy to enjoy their crate.  Feed them in it, give them bones there, use puzzles in the crate, and sit by the crate yourself, reading a book, working on your computer, etc.  Get your puppy used to a crate with an open door and good things inside before you ever close the door.  Build up how long they can be in there with the door closed and you nearby before you try leaving the room.  Remember that for most puppies, arriving at your house and joining your family is their first time alone and away from their mother and siblings.  Going from sleeping with other familiar dogs to sleeping by yourself is a big step and one that takes a moment for a lot of the puppies I meet.

Baths and nail trims: Those are often rough regardless of the age of your dog.  But, again, it's about counter-conditioning and desensitization.  Start with getting your puppy used to the sound of running water.  Have them in the bathroom with you when the water is running and offer them treats.  Build up to having them stand in a dry tub and lick a lick mat.  Next, have them stand in a tub with water in it.  Now, turn on the water while they are standing in water.  You can use a cup to pour water on their body, but try a wash cloth for their face, neck, and bottom.  Don't scrub!  Gently rub and handle them all over.  Same goes for drying them off; dry them off gently with a pre-warmed towel, don't roughly buff them like they are a car! While you may be tempted to do ears and nails on bath day, resist the urge!  A bath is enough stimulation for one day for a puppy.  Save the ears for a different day and the nails for a separate day from that.  I've reviewed how to desensitize your puppy to ear cleaning and nail trimming before in my blog post on cooperative care.  Here's a link, just in case you need a refresher:

https://juliebondanimalbehaviorist.blogspot.com/2022/02/teaching-cooperative-care-to-puppies.html

I know it's tempting to just leave the grooming (baths, ear cleaning, and nail trimming) to the professionals, but resist the temptation.  Even if you intend to use a groomer for most of your dog's care, you will still need to be able to do some of this at home.  Dogs step in things, roll in things, get skunked, get eye infections and ear infections, tear nails, and get food (or vomit!) on their faces.  You will need to be able to spot clean your dog at a minimum, and be able to give them a full bath when necessary.  Even if you never trim all of their nails yourself, you need to be able to handle their feet if they step on or in something.  Do the work. Break the task into smaller steps.  Have treats.  Take frequent breaks. Don't get frustrated.  Ask for help when you need it!

I actually had an in-person appointment with the client mentioned above and her ten week old puppy.  He and I hit it off right away so I started working with him around his crate since that was still a hurdle for this owner.  I had her walk away and leave us to it so I could see if he'd allow her to leave the room if he had me there.  Not only was he fine when she left, he never even glanced her way, which cracked me up.  I tossed treats in the crate, opened and closed the door, played with him with a flirt pole I'd brought along, and then put him in the crate with a yak chew I'd also brought to this appointment.  I shut the door and told him I'd be right back and I walked out of the room.  I immediately came back and he didn't even glance my way, he was quite focused on the chew.  I came out to talk to the owner and she was flabbergasted that he wasn't barking or whining!  We went back to the crate together and he looked up from the chew, and then went right back at it.  I opened the crate door and he came out with the chew in his mouth. I traded a treat for the chew as now we had a reward we could use to get him to readily crate on his own.  Now, he'll only get those yummy yak chews when he's in his crate, further reinforcing how great they are to him.

Raising a puppy takes an infinite amount of patience.  And truly, puppies aren't for everyone.  Remember, however, that any new dog you acquire, regardless of the age of the dog, will require some desensitization and counter-conditioning.  How much will depend on what they've already been trained to do and how positive those experiences were for them.  If your adult dog is terrified of baths, for example, you may have to do those same exercises above to change his point of view.  It's worth it to do so.  Honest!

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

This is a an old picture of Ozzie on the grooming table when it was in the garage. Now, our grooming table is outside which the dogs seem to enjoy a lot more.  More to look at out there!  He's very patient on the table, standing for brush outs and trims, but he sits like a gentleman, offering a paw for foot hair trims and nails.  How did he get that way?  You guessed it.  Early desensitization and lots of treats!

Yes, It IS Good Enough!

You know how I'm always talking about letting your dogs sniff on their walks?  Well, I had someone reach out to tell me that they try and try and try to do this, but they find it so aggravating that it can't be all that rewarding for their dog as they so clearly hate it themselves!  I appreciated this person's candor; it IS hard to change the way we do anything, whether that's the way we walk our dogs or the way we approach exercise for ourselves.  Both require us to change our mindset, cut ourselves some slack knowing mistakes/setbacks happen, and enjoy the process as much as we can.  Here's what I mean.

I'm a runner.  I'm not particularly fast, but I am consistent, what other runners refer to as a pacer.  If you want to teach yourself to keep a consistent speed, run with me.  I run the same pace whether I'm running in a 5K or I'm running for fun on a random Tuesday.  I do, however, run splits to challenge myself, especially if I have a race coming up.  A split is the time it takes a runner to run a certain distance, say a mile, when the race itself is longer than that.  You look at your split times to see how you can work up to different pacing strategies to get you through a race. A negative split means running the second half of your run faster than the first half.  Runners who do endurance runs, or who want to improve their overall time, work on this a lot.  A positive split means running the second half of your run at a slower pace than the first half.  People who run mostly for fun do this.  And then there are those who do even splits which is running each mile at the exact same pace, which is your split time, like a 10-minute mile. So, why am I telling you all this?  I'd like you to try approaching your walks with your dog like a runner doing splits.  

Divide your walk into segments.  Maybe allow your dog to sniff and relieve themselves for the first ten minutes of your walk.  Pause, tell them it's go time, and spend the next ten minutes speed walking, no stopping to sniff, focusing on your breathing, length of stride, and encouraging your dog to keep their head up and match your pace.  Then pause, and either return to the slower, sniffing pace (a positive split), or pick up the pace yet again, maybe trotting or jogging with your dog if they are healthy enough to do that (a negative split).  Finish your walk with a cool down, meaning a slower pace full of deep breathing for you, looking around and enjoying the view, and a sniff and final bathroom break for your dog.  By dividing your walk into splits, you allow yourself the opportunity to get some exercise, but you also give your dog what they need, ample time to sniff and explore.  By doing the pause in between splits, you give your dog the opportunity to note that a change is happening.  It allows them to prepare and know what you expect of them.  Here's an example.

When I walk with Ozzie and Henley together, we maintain a consistently slower pace for the entire walk, lots of sniffing and exploring.  Ozzie is 11 years old and his pace has slowed greatly; he now only runs if he sees a squirrel worth chasing!  That slow pace is somewhat frustrating for Henley, however, as he likes to walk quite a bit faster between sniffs.  How do I make the walk work for both of them?  I still do splits, they are just slower paced overall.  On the "no sniff" split, I pick up the pace just slightly and encourage Ozzie to move by saying things like,"what's that over there?!" which causes his head to come up and him to trot forward to look.  That way, Henley can move along at the pace he enjoys more.  Now, when I walk Henley alone, we do that exact pattern I described in the previous paragraph; the first ten minutes of our walk is for sniffing and toileting, and the remaining 35 minutes is broken into three, ten minute splits where we speed walk, then jog, then run, before our five minute cool down, positive split, at the end.  

Doing something like splits on your walks will give you the opportunity to get a bit of exercise which is what most people tell me is the problem with these sniff and stroll walks, not enough cardio for the human!  The cool thing about doing splits with your dog, however, is that they will get into better physical shape as well.  And your walks will ultimately be less frustrating because you are getting your cardio and your dog is getting their sniff time, and you are both feeling satisfied with the outing overall, which was the goal, right?  To enjoy your walks together.

As always, if you have questions about your pet's behavior, you know where to find me.

So my daughter and I both walk Zelly.  I often walk her with Henley which means she does splits as I outlined above.  My daughter does sniff and strolls with her mostly, but they also hike once to twice a week, working on their stamina with hills.  My daughter is also a runner and she will begin training with Zelly during the summer to do canicross, which are races you can do with your dog. Zelly has learned to pace with me, so I have no doubt she and my daughter will be placing in canicross races in the not so distant future.